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Matts89
09-12-2015, 04:17 PM
Hello all,

First time posting here, but have been reading/learning and enjoying everyone's pics for a couple years now.
Finally got my dream boat this year and have been enjoying it for a couple months now.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/12/6ac9093d9d69ab3e54e3c72040b2542f.jpg

Developed a fuel leak over Labor Day weekend. (supply line at carburetor, new fitting and gasket) Repaired that today.
While I was running the engine off a hose checking my work (and enjoying the sound) I noticed there is a lot more water coming out of the port exhaust than starboard.

Jumped in the boat, and to the touch the starboard riser (I hope this is correct termonalagy) was warm port was cool.
Manifold (again termonalagy) on port side cool all over, starboard side warm to the aft and cool fore.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/12/16ad971a88bb3d4cd64c377f3a73d151.jpg

Water lines exiting "thermostat housing" are both cool, removed starboard side and probed into manifold to find no blockage.

I guess my question is, where is the common restriction? I have water in but not out?
Looking for some guidance/subject knowledge before I tear the exhaust off?

Side question:
Should this engine ever hit 180 degrees?
PO said it runs around there.....
If my pics turned out (since this is my first time posting) you can see my fake water supply attached directly to the "trans cooler"? (termonalagy) I hope this is a correct method of faking.
At idle after 5-10 minutes water on top of thermostat housing cold, below it around the circulation pump hot. This is at 180 degrees on gauge. Engine stays there or a little hotter or colder on the lake.

Thermostat stuck closed?

Hope my first post works out and finds everyone well.
Thanks











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CornRickey
09-12-2015, 08:39 PM
How much water coming from each side from the Stern isn't reliable until it has been running for a while sure to the boat being not level and water sitting in the system until it is full. Temp readings unless on either side of extreme is also unreliable on a hose. Next thing to do before tearing into the exhaust manifolds is to get temp gun and take readings. Once you start getting into the manifolds you run the risk of breaking studs and bolts and replacing the gaskets (which wouldn't be a bad idea regardless since your in there. Hope that helps

Matts89
09-12-2015, 09:40 PM
How much water coming from each side from the Stern isn't reliable until it has been running for a while sure to the boat being not level and water sitting in the system until it is full. Temp readings unless on either side of extreme is also unreliable on a hose. Next thing to do before tearing into the exhaust manifolds is to get temp gun and take readings. Once you start getting into the manifolds you run the risk of breaking studs and bolts and replacing the gaskets (which wouldn't be a bad idea regardless since your in there. Hope that helps
Ok,
There is a floor drain on the port side of boat, so I guess it could be leaning 2 or 3 inches that way.
I'll shoot everything with the gun next time I'm out.

What is a normal operating temperature range for one of these engines?

Thanks, CornRickey

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CornRickey
09-13-2015, 10:03 PM
Mine shows 170-175. I guess it all matters what thermostat you have. I don't completely believe my gauge when it goes up past 170 though. Resistance in the circuit can cause false rises in temp.

CJD
09-14-2015, 09:18 AM
I don't see anything wrong, as you are describing it. The temp it runs is the temp of the thermostat the PO put in. The factory usually uses a 165 degree thermostat, but if it was changed to a 185 degree (more common in cars), then that is what you should see. When you shut down on the lake, the temp will cool pretty quickly and show at the next start up. If you are pulling really hard, it is not uncommon for the temp to rise a few degrees.

So just enjoy it!

Matts89
09-14-2015, 11:15 AM
Thanks,
Temps around here have been in the low 40's in the am and barely touching 70 in the afternoon, so I wasn't really excited about enjoying it this weekend.
Hopefully I'll get out at least once more.....
Got the new 160 degree thermostat in my wish list basket on SKIDIM (RPO26002) gonna change it with the winter or spring service just for piece of mind.

I was discussing my fuel repairs and the water flow from the stern with my lead tech this morning at work and the first thing he said was "the boats leaning that way". I would have never thought it would matter. Thought both sides would be under the same water pressure.

Thanks again.

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CJD
09-14-2015, 07:49 PM
If you have a heater, or plan to install one, the 185 degree may be a good thing. End of the season is always sad.

Matts89
09-14-2015, 08:43 PM
If you have a heater, or plan to install one, the 185 degree may be a good thing. End of the season is always sad.
I don't and don't plan to.....but my wife might be on board with that upgrade.
It's hard to get her out unless it's pushing 80 degrees.
Heated observer seat?

I've wanted one of these boats since I was 10 years old, this first year has been awesome so putting her up will be hard.

One season ends another begins.
We're big time downhill skiers so add some clothes, narrow skis and the fun never stops.




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jasun
09-15-2015, 07:33 AM
Congrats on the purchase! Where in Central MI are you at? I am in NE Indiana and have Family in Saginaw!

Putting them up in the winter does suck. Just make sure to winterize good... esp where you are at!

Matts89
09-15-2015, 09:17 AM
Thanks,
Mount Pleasant, lived here all my life.
Getting my ducks in a row for my first winterize. I've learned a lot from reading various posts but I'm sure I'll have some questions for you guys.








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SquamInboards
09-16-2015, 02:48 PM
I don't and don't plan to.....but my wife might be on board with that upgrade.
It's hard to get her out unless it's pushing 80 degrees.
Heated observer seat?


Let me tell you, a heater was the best single upgrade to my boat, hands down. That's saying a lot because contenders for that prize include: tower w/bimini, new rudder, new engine (EFI), and dual batteries.

I can't tell you how many times it's made the difference between my wife wanting to go out, or being comfortable and happy while we're out on a sunset/night cruise, and, well, you know the alternative.

If you do go with a heater (maybe a nice little winter project) I'll give you some further advice on it...

Matts89
09-16-2015, 09:11 PM
Let me tell you, a heater was the best single upgrade to my boat, hands down. That's saying a lot because contenders for that prize include: tower w/bimini, new rudder, new engine (EFI), and dual batteries.

I can't tell you how many times it's made the difference between my wife wanting to go out, or being comfortable and happy while we're out on a sunset/night cruise, and, well, you know the alternative.

If you do go with a heater (maybe a nice little winter project) I'll give you some further advice on it...
Wow, that is some pretty stiff competition behind the heater.
My first "thought" was I'll take the bottom 4 items listed, and she can stay home......;)

I would definitely be interested.

Not initially excited about adding all the components/failure points that I think would go along with the system
(hose, wire, heater core, blower fan, circulating more water) but I think it's pretty common.

Think an electric heated seat element from an automotive application would work?

Or am I way off track?







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CornRickey
09-16-2015, 11:51 PM
Sorry, PerfectPass is number one and heater is a close second....

jasun
09-19-2015, 08:22 AM
My first "thought" was I'll take the bottom 4 items listed, and she can stay home!

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Hahaha!


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daniel.j.grossheim
09-19-2015, 10:22 PM
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/19/99509073c4638a10e423494fb20de0f5.jpg

Hey man I just bought mine this year too. They are a sweet looking boat, water temps are about 64 over here it's getting hard to get in the water still.


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Matts89
09-20-2015, 07:12 AM
Congrats,
Love your color combination.
Where's "over here"?


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SquamInboards
09-21-2015, 09:42 AM
Sorry, PerfectPass is number one and heater is a close second....

Yeah, I drove a 2012 Nautique with very simple speed control this summer. Pretty much the best thing ever. However, for me personally, I still spend more time cruising at night than I do riding. My wife is an excellent driver, so for the times I do ride, it's fine without the PP. But then, I've never had it - and I'm sure I'd never go back if I did.

On the heated seat, I don't think that's enough, personally. There's something about having the hot air circulating, and being able to drape a blanket or towel over yourself with the hot air underneath, that's really fantastic.

I'm sure I'll come up with some other thoughts, it's been 7 or 8 years since I installed the heater in my boat. But I remember a few points:
- keep the ducting runs as short as possible. The temp and airflow drops significantly over any length of hose.
- put in a small filter on the output (out from engine, IN to heater) to trap bits of rust scale that come out of the block. I clean my filter out probably twice a year. Without the filter, over time these bits clog up the heater and reduce water flow, and thus temperature. Something like this. (link to westmarine) (http://www.westmarine.com/buy/jabsco--pumpguard-in-line-strainers--P011_332_003_024)
- there's some disagreement about these, but I have found this y-pipe adapter (link to skidim) (http://www.skidim.com/Y-FITTING-1-X-5_8-PCM-Ford-Carb-or-EFI/productinfo/H423/) to be critical to keeping the heater working well at idle speeds. The disadvantage is in spring start-up - if there's air in the heater, you will tend to trap air bubbles right at the raw water pump, which makes it harder to prime the pump initially. I have just made sure to fill the heater with non-toxic anti-freeze, and then in the spring, to top it off with water and maybe even dump water down into the RWP by taking the RWP output hose off the t-stat and pouring water in the top. I also put in a clear hose from the heater to the y-pipe, so I can see if there are bubbles in it.
- the basic 2-port heater will be fine in your boat, for just the front seat. I have a 4-port, but I have a bigger boat and I have a dedicated vent at my feet (driver's side). We used to have four of us in my boat ALL the time, and the extra heat output of the 4-port was nice, plus I had plenty of room.

I may think of other things, but anyway those are all things I wish I knew when I first installed the system.

Glad you're enjoying the boat! Although we weren't in the boat this morning, it was 37 (!) here in NH this morning. Another reminder of why I love the heater.

Cheers

SquamInboards
09-21-2015, 09:57 AM
OH and by the way, on the original topic, I was thinking about a thread I started here a while back, on an issue where my exhaust hoses would get really hot after extended idling. Here's a link to that. (https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?16251-Exhaust-hose-overheat)

What's relevant to your question, may not be mentioned in that thread in detail. But I took my manifolds off the engine, and separated the risers from the manifolds, then thoroughly cleaned out any rust scales and built-up loose crap in there, then cleaned the gasket surfaces thoroughly and re-assembled everything with new hoses. My mysterious issue wasn't quite solved by that, but it did bring the riser temps down initially. I think there was a lot of rust built up and water flow was seriously reduced as a result.

One side of the engine (one manifold/riser) gets a little better flow than the other, and I can't recall which. But as long as you're in the range that won't damage the hoses (I wasn't), you should be fine.

Matts89
09-21-2015, 08:29 PM
OH and by the way, on the original topic, I was thinking about a thread I started here a while back, on an issue where my exhaust hoses would get really hot after extended idling. Here's a link to that. (https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?16251-Exhaust-hose-overheat)

What's relevant to your question, may not be mentioned in that thread in detail. But I took my manifolds off the engine, and separated the risers from the manifolds, then thoroughly cleaned out any rust scales and built-up loose crap in there, then cleaned the gasket surfaces thoroughly and re-assembled everything with new hoses. My mysterious issue wasn't quite solved by that, but it did bring the riser temps down initially. I think there was a lot of rust built up and water flow was seriously reduced as a result.

One side of the engine (one manifold/riser) gets a little better flow than the other, and I can't recall which. But as long as you're in the range that won't damage the hoses (I wasn't), you should be fine.
I really appreciate all the input and advice on the subjects in this post.
I'm gonna drag the comp up to the cottage this weekend and try to shoot some actual temps all over the engine and exhaust.

As for the heater, maybe if our place was on the water I might consider it as it (heater) would get used a lot and I could justify the install. I'm still on the fence if it would get MY wife out more often in less than "ideal" conditions.
Think she likes the pontoon more [emoji42]

I think for now I'm going to concentrate on keeping a clean, strong pulling, turn key tow boat.

Oh, and my first winterize. Which is a completely different question filled post for me.

Thanks again!



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