supra sunsport stringer materials list? (tight spring deadline haha)

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My boat is down to bare stringers and the foam is removed. My plan right now: do one side of the boat at once and one stringer at a time.
1) sawsall out the stringer and scrape or sharpe out exact original location (start with the main or inner stringer)
2)sand down area where new glass will go
3) use old stringer or stringer shell as a template and carve out my new piece of wood
4)lay stringer on bare floor and glass it to the floor just enough to hold it straight and upright and once dry glass the crap out of the whole stringer including engine mounts
5) do this for the other three main length way stringers
6) lay in 6 ribs and glass them in
7)foam or floor im not sure which should be first
8)everything else

Questions:
1) nothing goes under the stringer like glue or anything correct?
2) how far on each side of the stringer do i need to glass 6-10 inches or do i just get them set and standing then blanket the whole bottom
3)what to do for engine mounts? lay in the main stringer then bolt and fiberglass a 6x6 to it?
4)materials what kind of fiberglass do i use? and how much
5) can i use any wood from the homedepot or lumber yard? im no engineer but im figuring any wood would be plenty strong

Thanks and any help is appreciated sorry for being so long winded but i like to get everything done at once
Also if anyone knows places with great prices for the glass and foam that would be great

[lmnelson86]

Im going to give you my best input here...also, PM me where you live etc...maybe one weekend ill swing out and give you pointers in person. I live in St Clair Shores and don't mind driving.

My boat is down to bare stringers and the foam is removed. My plan right now: do one side of the boat at once and one stringer at a time.
1) sawsall out the stringer and scrape or sharpe out exact original location (start with the main or inner stringer)

First off, don't touch the sawmill. Get a cut off wheel or a METABO with a 6" cut off wheel. Buy a box of wheels/blades, thank me later. Takes no time to remove the stringers with it. My advice is to MEASURE the sh!t out of your stringers, then cut/remove them all at the same time. By the time you remove them and grind/sand away excess fiberglass, your sharpie line will no longer exist. Proper measurement is best.

2)sand down area where new glass will go

Agreed

3) use old stringer or stringer shell as a template and carve out my new piece of wood

Save as much as you can, but depending on the condition of the stringers you may be out of luck. Its fairly easy to create new stringers, but takes time.

4)lay stringer on bare floor and glass it to the floor just enough to hold it straight and upright and once dry glass the crap out of the whole stringer including engine mounts

There is a lot more to this than what you think. It takes time to prepare all materials to do this efficiently and as best as possible. I can explain more later, but glassing my stringers with 4 layers of glass was by far the longest individual process of this project.

5) do this for the other three main length way stringers

See above

6) lay in 6 ribs and glass them in

Not sure what you mean here....but click the link in my signature and look at my build. I think I may have 6 or more cross members, I forget off the top of my head.

7)foam or floor im not sure which should be first

No foam. Foam is overrated, old school, and expensive...but worst of all it holds water regardless. A properly instructed boat won't need to the foam. I called Supra myself and they said it is only for sound deadening and light structural integrity. 95% for sound, which you'll never notice over the sound of your engine.

8)everything else

Tons of stuff.


Questions:
1) nothing goes under the stringer like glue or anything correct?

FALSE!! The stringers are bedded to the hull, many people choose different materials to use. I personally used a polyester based resin nicknamed "gunk." It is harder than concrete when cure. I bought all materials at Eastpoint Fiberglass on 9 mile and Kelly, roughly 9 mile and I-94 in Eastpointe. Every marina in town buys their supplies here, you should too.

2) how far on each side of the stringer do i need to glass 6-10 inches or do i just get them set and standing then blanket the whole bottom

Your glass should overlap accordingly and efficiently, there is no true right or wrong answer. Most likely you will have layers from neighboring stringers overlapping or touching, but there is no set rule for how much. This is not really an important thing. overlap is ok, but what is more important is glassing each individual stringer accordingly and properly.

3)what to do for engine mounts? lay in the main stringer then bolt and fiberglass a 6x6 to it?

You're going to use 4x4 and you will need to scalp/sand/shape the bottom of it to fit flush with the hull and still be at a 90 to accept the motor mounts. these will also be bedded with "gunk."

4)materials what kind of fiberglass do i use? and how much

I can fill you in later, but a lot more than you think. Roughly 20-25 gallons of resin will be used. Eastpointe fiberglass is your source, seriously.

5) can i use any wood from the homedepot or lumber yard? im no engineer but im figuring any wood would be plenty strong

Buy your lumber from Dillman Upton in rochester. You want good, clean, knot free and STRAIGHT lumber. For my 2 main stringers I bought 2x12x25 Douglas fir for its strength and durability. You do NOT want to use any wolmanized wood. Wolmanized wood has already accepted as much liquid as it is able to, it will NOT be able to absorb any type of resin, be it epoxy or polyester, to adhere properly. What I mean is your fiberglass will separate from the wood and you will be Fukd. Ive seen it in plenty of boats rebuilt with wolmanized...blows my mind why people don't understand why the glass won't adhere to the wood.

Thanks and any help is appreciated sorry for being so long winded but i like to get everything done at once



Also if anyone knows places with great prices for the glass and foam that would be great[/QUOTE]

Eastpointe Fiberglass, look them up. See my boy Jerry. Buy your resin 5 gallons at a time, I'll try and figure out how many yards of glass I used of each material.




I apologize for any spelling and grammatical errors, I am slamming some beers tonight for the first tie in three months. Cheers and all the best.

[angus2112]

1) nothing goes under the stringer like glue or anything correct?
you have to bed stringers in some mix peanut butter (resin and thickeners ) i use pl glue
2) how far on each side of the stringer do i need to glass 6-10 inches or do i just get them set and standing then blanket the whole bottom
16840
3)what to do for engine mounts? lay in the main stringer then bolt and fiberglass a 6x6 to it?
5) can i use any wood from the homedepot or lumber yard? im no engineer but im figuring any wood would be plenty strong
i use lam beams full 2 inch you can order them in any demotion that being said i screw and glue them to the main stringer so it is all 1 piece manards has marine plywood i use 1/2 and mock up the outside stringers 16841
4) 20 to 25 gal of polyester resin 1708 bi mat is your friend
pm me your # if you want i have tons of pic and advice and would be glad to help you i am in the middle of a salt restore that you can come and see

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I apologize for the month late response.. you guys gave great advice and i truly appreciate it. right after asking this i found some guys who had great reviews who did my boat for 2000$.
After reading all the threads everyone said it would cost 1500-2000 do do it yourself so it was a easy decision.

[jwwalk]

I apologize for the month late response.. you guys gave great advice and i truly appreciate it. right after asking this i found some guys who had great reviews who did my boat for 2000$.
After reading all the threads everyone said it would cost 1500-2000 do do it yourself so it was a easy decision.

Who ended up doing your boat? What all did they do? Stringers only or floor too?

I live in White Lake and am pondering getting mine redone.