winterizing?

[speedster]

This is my first year with a 89 Comp 20' TS6M and it is the best thing I think I've ever purchased! I grew up with outboards so I have no idea on how to winterize the engine. It has a PCM Ford 351 and with the help of this forum, I found a manual on the engine, but it doesn't give any instruction on how to winterize it, or more specificaly since I live in MN where it ill freeze, drain all the water out of it. Any help would be appreciated.

[OUI]

It's pretty simple. Fog the motor through the carb and a few extra squits in the spark plug holes. Drain the water in the block -- via the drain bolts on the side of the block. Then drain the exhaust risers via the plugs at the back of the risers. Then drain the hoses on the water pump. Some people say you should pull the impeller so it doesn't set in that compressed shape. You need to check the condition of the impeller every srping so you might as well pull it now. Make sure the battery is charged and the cables disconnected.

But, I'm in MN and I don't start thinking about that stuff until the end of Oct. There's plenty of boating left.

[SupraTom]

I hope your comp is treating you well. I have the same boat/engine in an 85.

I live in WI and boat into November. If you don't plan on boating after it starts to freeze at night follow the tips by OUI. IF you do boat later into the season I would recommend picking up the drain attachments for the engine block sold at skidim.com. They make the process of draining the engine block much easier and quicker.

A couple more winterization tips for you- You should suck antifreeze into your engine block to eliminate corrosion. Make sure you use the newer antifreeze. It's less corrosive and environmentally friendly. To do this, simply pull the inlet line off of the impeller housing and stick it into a bucket of antifreeze. Let the engine run until the block is full. Make sure everything is clear of the belts during this process. After your done, loosen your belts and tape up your exhaust ports to keep the critters out.

[speedster]

:P Thanks for the feedback! Don't get me wrong, I have no intentions of putting the boat away until I atleast start seeing pumpkins in peoples yards!

But, I've seen a lot of boats for sale with cracked blocks because the engines were improperly winterized and I want to make sure that doesn't happen.

So, if possible, could you tell me exactly how many drain holes the block has and how many plugs need to be removed in the exhaust risers? Or, can anyone reference any books or manuals on the proper methods for this that may have some pictures?

[OUI]

I have the 454 and it has 2 on the block (one either side) and one on each riser. Where in MN do you live?

[speedster]

Thanks for the tip. I live in one of the suburbs (Andover ) NW of the twin cities, but have a cabin near Perham, MN which is near Detroit Lakes. Just got back from a great weekend skiing. How about u?

[milner351]

one more thing to drain while you're winterizing -

the transmission cooler -

I just replaced mine due to a crack - at least I hope that's why the fluid looked like it did and the trans was slipping.

After a total restoration of the boat over the past few years, I sure hope a trans rebuild is not in my future!


also - are you guys using the biodegradeable auto antifreeze for freeze and corrosion prevention - or the pink RV antifreeze?

[selle92]

What about draining the "U" shaped peice/pipe Near the Front of the engine? Facing the drivers seat on the 351.

Maybe that was covered, but didn't know what it was called.

I've heard the RV stuff works great.

(also a Minnesotian, getting close to the process)

[IndyMatt]

Im in northern Indiana & there is a lot of talk about wet blocking (filling the motor with antifreeze) and dry blocking (draining). Most of the marinas wont wet block due to EPA restrictions as running the motor in the spring will flush the antifreeze into the lake. I have heard that uncirculated antifreeze will cause rubber components to swell and prematurely break down. I flush with the proprolene glycol (pink RV stuff thats $3.50 gal) then i drain the block, let the bildge pump pick up some of the antifreeze. This way i know anything left behind is treated. I fill my heater with the more expensive anti corrosion antifreeze just for added protection. BTW i assume the 'U' shaped hose is the line from the water pump to the thermostat housing. If these hoses (including the transmission cooler) is full of antifreeze, you should be fine.

[selle92]

I just did my Mariah on Tues. First time changing oil and winterizing myself, and I couldn't believe how easy that was- with alittle advice from neighbor who has a Comp.

Since '05 when I bought her, I had been going to the stealer since it was late in the season when I pulled out.. and just wanted to get it done quick when I didn't have the time to do it myself.

Not that putting in the new distrib this spring was hard, but the oil change and winterizing was even easier.... not to mention about $200 in savings.

:shock:

[gstar]

I'm in northern MN and about to tackle this for the first time. If I'm going to pull the plugs to fog the
cylinders, I might as well change them. What is recommended for a carbonated 351 PCM?

Also, what oil and filter is recommended and can I get it at an automotive parts store?

Also, if I use the vacuum pump I bought to drain the PCM power plus 1:23:1 transmission I have, how much fluid should I expect to get out/ replace?

Lastly, I have read about a screen on the transmission cooler. Where exactly is that and how do I check it?

I'm pretty comfortable about the rest of the instructions. Thanks for any help.

[Okie Boarder]

I'm in northern MN and about to tackle this for the first time. If I'm going to pull the plugs to fog the
cylinders, I might as well change them. What is recommended for a carbonated 351 PCM?

Also, what oil and filter is recommended and can I get it at an automotive parts store?

Also, if I use the vacuum pump I bought to drain the PCM power plus 1:23:1 transmission I have, how much fluid should I expect to get out/ replace?

Lastly, I have read about a screen on the transmission cooler. Where exactly is that and how do I check it?

I'm pretty comfortable about the rest of the instructions. Thanks for any help.

Are you asking what is recommended for plugs or the fogging process? If it is plgs, check with Discount Inboard Marine (www.skidim.com) and they can help you. For fogging, run the engine and fog the carb heavily until it stalls or bogs down. Then pull out the plugs and fog each cylinder.

It is recommended you use a high zinc content oil. You may have to research in your area for what you have. The filter may vary but it is the PH8 size in Fram.

Transmission holds 1-2 quarts IIRC.

[docdrs]

Im in northern Indiana & there is a lot of talk about wet blocking (filling the motor with antifreeze) and dry blocking (draining). Most of the marinas wont wet block due to EPA restrictions as running the motor in the spring will flush the antifreeze into the lake. I have heard that uncirculated antifreeze will cause rubber components to swell and prematurely break down. I flush with the proprolene glycol (pink RV stuff thats $3.50 gal) then i drain the block, let the bildge pump pick up some of the antifreeze. This way i know anything left behind is treated. I fill my heater with the more expensive anti corrosion antifreeze just for added protection. BTW i assume the 'U' shaped hose is the line from the water pump to the thermostat housing. If these hoses (including the transmission cooler) is full of antifreeze, you should be fine.

what boat do you have, antifreeze in the j tube should be fine and the tranny cooler, although not sure why that would be there if you remove your impeller or drain your vdrive. I filll my block from the top of the j hose but then drain it, after I have bumped the motor over after fogging the cylinders.