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BBOOMN
06-06-2016, 10:34 PM
I can't get my motor to turn over starter is good. I took spark plugs out and tried to manually turn crank but was not able to. I don't believe engine is locked up because it did not over heat or make any unusual sounds. I had prop mishap and was unable to get it off with prop puller, sledge hammer, and propaine torch. I ended up cutting old prop off. Could I have damage the v-drive or transmission from hitting the prop trying to get it off?

CJD
06-06-2016, 11:24 PM
Does it make a click when you turn the key?

chris young
06-07-2016, 09:16 AM
How did you try to manually turn the motor? Even with the plugs in it should be fairly easy to turn with a 2 foot bar. An easy bypass to see if there is a different issue is to run a jumper cable from the +ve terminal on the battery to the +ve terminal on the starter. Beware, when you touch the starter terminal there will be a big spark so no fuel vapors allowed! Also beware that you know for sure which is the +ve terminal otherwise you'll be shorting the battery, and that's bad.

BBOOMN
06-07-2016, 06:43 PM
I already took the starter off and tested it. Starter is good and it is hitting hard when installed it just won't turn the motor

BBOOMN
06-07-2016, 06:46 PM
I replaced 2 bolts in pully with longer ones and used a tool that hooks on 2 bolts to turn a motor over

BBOOMN
06-07-2016, 06:55 PM
I only ran the engine for about 15 minutes got up to about 45mph for about 2 minutes and it started loosing speed I took it out of gear and then put it back in gear again it took off but would only turn 1000 rpm so I shut it off and looked under the lid found oil squirted out from the oil filter I loosened the filter and found gasket had been pinched I fixed it and tightened it up. I lost 1.5 qts I tried to start it and it would not start. But it did not over heat or make any unusual sounds.

chris young
06-08-2016, 09:41 AM
I really really hope this isn't the case, but if you can't turn it with the plugs out and a good grip on the crank pulley, it's seized. If it was pushing oil out around the filter, there could be something stopping the oil from circulating, and then something got starved. Did you try to turn it backwards when you had tuned it by hand? Even if it only moves a few degrees before it stops then you know at least the bottom end probably isn't seized. There are so many things that could be seized, that you have to start somewhere. One frozen valve could do it. There are folks on this forum with way more experience with motors than I have, who may have seen something like this and know a better place to start, but knowing about the oil now, I doubt it's a transmission causing your problem. The main points here are that it started slowing down and then was locked, and no funny sounds. If you can get it to move a few degrees back and forth with minimal effort, then the next step for me at least would be to pull the heads, or at minimal get the valve covers off, and look for any valves that have space between the rocker and the valve stem, you could also try to actuate the valves by getting a screw driver in between the valve and the rocker. Good luck.

BBOOMN
06-08-2016, 11:10 AM
I was told that the water fuel seperator could be full of water that would cause the engine to slow down and only go to 1000 rpm. I have never changed it or emptied it. If the transmission is engaged could I turn the motor manually?

Jetlink
06-08-2016, 12:24 PM
I was told that the water fuel seperator could be full of water that would cause the engine to slow down and only go to 1000 rpm. I have never changed it or emptied it. If the transmission is engaged could I turn the motor manually?

Pretty sure the transmission requires the engine running in order to actually engage. I doubt your fuel/water separator is the culprit here as well. I think Chris hit the nail on the head and avoiding what he posted is essentially ignoring the big elephant in the room. Figure out why the block is not turning freely by hand and then once you have that figured out, go back through all the other accessories and make sure those do not contribute to another malfunction.

chris young
06-08-2016, 12:48 PM
Anything is possible. However the clutch on these transmissions is applied hydraulically, and that requires engine rotation to power the hydraulic pump. It's not a 100% thing, but very likely if you can turn the prop by hand, the transmission is not likely to be the culprit. I suppose it's possible that the transmission itself was loading the motor because it was seizing up somehow and now it's stuck like that. Have you checked the oil level in the transmission?

That leaking oil filter is the smoking gun IMHO.
The reason that I suspect you've got a seized motor is that when you starve something for oil, the friction just gets worse and worse until it either becomes a catastrophic failure, or the motor can no longer overcome the friction. This is what I think happened in your case. When you said after you found the oil problem and it wouldn't start, do you mean it wouldn't crank, or it wouldn't start? The other question I have is that when you shut it down, was it idling properly, or did it seem like it was struggling to run?

chris young
06-08-2016, 12:55 PM
In case my post looks a bit weird considering yours (Jetlink) it's because we posted same time, just sayin'

BBOOMN
06-08-2016, 03:11 PM
It wouldn't crank? Starter was hitting but not turning the flywheel. I think it died then I turned the key off. I just changed the oil the day I dinged up my prop and it did not leak oil but it was only running at idle or low RPM to drive it to the dock from the ramp. When loading boat back on trailor prop hit bottom. I use Mobile 1 full senthetic and oil was not even that hot to the touch when I pulled the filter off and reinstalled it. I have an appointment at the dealer to have it looked at. But they are atleast 2 weeks behind right now.

Jetlink
06-08-2016, 04:14 PM
What boat and engine is this on again?

chris young
06-09-2016, 09:25 AM
So if I understand, this is the order of events
Boat was running fine on an outing and then pulling it out of the water you dinged the prop.
You replaced the prop (with great struggle)
You changed the oil, (and filter I presume?)
Took the boat out and ran for very short time and big power loss until the motor completely died. You found approx 1.5 quarts of oil in the bilge, and the filter was leaking around the seal. You pulled the filter and found the gasket "kinked"

Ok, I'm trying to find any or all scenarios where the new oil filter may have been plugged. Either a manufacturers flaw, or some foreign material got into the filter. The fact that you ended up loosing over a quart of oil in only a few minutes of run time leads me to believe that the return holes on the filter were blocked and the oil was being forced out around the filter. Please don't be insulted by this next question, but you didn't by any chance leave the plastic cover on the new filter when you installed it did you? I'm just trying to figure out how all that oil got pumped into the bilge so quickly.

The fact that the oil/filter wasn't hot also kind of points to the blocked filter scenario, if the oil isn't circulating it won't get hot. While an engine will eventually seize if overheated, it's actually oil starvation that causes the seizure. In an overheat situation things expand so much that the oil can't penetrate into the gaps . A motor doesn't need to overheat to seize, it just needs to be under lubricated.

I have stood by an old adage in my troubleshooting career, "go to the last place where human hands were" In this case it's the oil and filter. If you don't want to wait 2 weeks for the dealer, find an auto mechanic you can trust that's willing to work on boats, and take it to them. It's just a truck motor with funny exhaust manifolds. If it's seized, they'll find it right away.

BBOOMN
06-12-2016, 05:54 PM
Thx for all your help now I will have to wait on dealer now

chris young
06-30-2016, 01:28 PM
Any news on this?

chris young
10-31-2016, 08:51 AM
Bump, any news?