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19supra19
06-07-2016, 11:40 PM
Just got a 24ssv gg. Boat was done at earmark years ago (saw a sticker on the boat and found the build on their site). Has 8 Polk db651 inboats with 6 db651 on tower and a 12 in Polk sub. Powered by 2 Boston GT-40 amps. The amp that powers 4 of the inboats and the sub has a blown channel. I was thinking of going to a kenwood 5 channel. Any suggestions comments for a new amp? Yes Ik the other amp would be replaced ideally bc of all the bridged channels but not gonna do that at this moment.

Sdc77
06-08-2016, 04:36 AM
Forget about Kenwood, Alpine, Sony, Pioneer etc. for amps and speakers.
Go for American amps. Much more power and dynamics, even at same ratting power :

Rockford, MTX, Hifonics, Polk, Kicker, JL Audio, Precision Power, Soundstream etc.

I highly suggest class-D amps in boats. They draw less current for same amount of power, and don't get hot.
I use car amplifiers for years without any issue.

trayson
06-08-2016, 03:25 PM
Just got a 24ssv gg. Boat was done at earmark years ago (saw a sticker on the boat and found the build on their site). Has 8 Polk db651 inboats with 6 db651 on tower and a 12 in Polk sub. Powered by 2 Boston GT-40 amps. The amp that powers 4 of the inboats and the sub has a blown channel. I was thinking of going to a kenwood 5 channel. Any suggestions comments for a new amp? Yes Ik the other amp would be replaced ideally bc of all the bridged channels but not gonna do that at this moment.

I have 8 of the Polk DB651's powered off a Precision power P900.4 and it just cranks. No overheating ever. No clipping, no problems. they're small in size and a great value. I have the P600.2 at 2 ohms for my tower speakers and the P1000.1 for my 2 10" subs.

19supra19
06-08-2016, 05:07 PM
Forget about Kenwood, Alpine, Sony, Pioneer etc. for amps and speakers.
Go for American amps. Much more power and dynamics, even at same ratting power :

Rockford, MTX, Hifonics, Polk, Kicker, JL Audio, Precision Power, Soundstream etc.

I highly suggest class-D amps in boats. They draw less current for same amount of power, and don't get hot.
I use car amplifiers for years without any issue.

Ok I'll most likely go class D like you said nnow. But what would you say is a good amp for those 4 speakers and sub from some of the brands you say. I'm familiar with jl, kicker and Polk as I've had those. But what about others you've listed. Thanks

19supra19
06-08-2016, 05:12 PM
I have 8 of the Polk DB651's powered off a Precision power P900.4 and it just cranks. No overheating ever. No clipping, no problems. they're small in size and a great value. I have the P600.2 at 2 ohms for my tower speakers and the P1000.1 for my 2 10" subs.

So would you think the P900.5 would be good for 4 speakers and the sub?

trayson
06-08-2016, 05:24 PM
So would you think the P900.5 would be good for 4 speakers and the sub?

You could go a couple different ways. You could do a PPI P900.4 and run 4 speakers on the front channels and the sub on the rear channels bridged:

http://www.electotronics.com/precisionpowerp9004phantomseriesclassdamp900w4chan nel.aspx
That would give a total of 450 watts RMS for your sub and 450 watts for the remaining 4 speakers (running at 2 ohms, so you'd have a pair on each of the channels)

Or you could do the PPI P900.5 which is a 5 channel amp.
http://www.rakuten.com/prod/precision-p900-5-power-5-channel-900-watt-max-class-d-car-amplifier/251683131.html?listingId=430566297&sclid=pla_google_BeachAudio&adid=29963&gclid=Cj0KEQjwhN-6BRCJsePgxru9iIwBEiQAI8rq86kMCrz1Qgsc4Jg6zqMqmxfY2 ytKZSTN-F_QytkxP1EaAmVZ8P8HAQ

You'd have 70watts for each of the 4 speakers (280 total) and they'd be at 4 ohms. then you'd have 270watts for your sub (assuming it's 4 ohms) or 440 watts if it's 2 ohms.

Pretty similar either way as far as how much power gets to your speakers. so I'd say that you might be best going with the 5 channel because that would get you a bass knob to control the level of the subwoofer independently, and you'd be able to adjust/fade the level of each pair of DB651's independent of the other pair.

19supra19
06-08-2016, 05:37 PM
You could go a couple different ways. You could do a PPI P900.4 and run 4 speakers on the front channels and the sub on the rear channels bridged:

http://www.electotronics.com/precisionpowerp9004phantomseriesclassdamp900w4chan nel.aspx
That would give a total of 450 watts RMS for your sub and 450 watts for the remaining 4 speakers (running at 2 ohms, so you'd have a pair on each of the channels)

Or you could do the PPI P900.5 which is a 5 channel amp.
http://www.rakuten.com/prod/precision-p900-5-power-5-channel-900-watt-max-class-d-car-amplifier/251683131.html?listingId=430566297&sclid=pla_google_BeachAudio&adid=29963&gclid=Cj0KEQjwhN-6BRCJsePgxru9iIwBEiQAI8rq86kMCrz1Qgsc4Jg6zqMqmxfY2 ytKZSTN-F_QytkxP1EaAmVZ8P8HAQ

You'd have 70watts for each of the 4 speakers (280 total) and they'd be at 4 ohms. then you'd have 270watts for your sub (assuming it's 4 ohms) or 440 watts if it's 2 ohms.

Pretty similar either way as far as how much power gets to your speakers. so I'd say that you might be best going with the 5 channel because that would get you a bass knob to control the level of the subwoofer independently, and you'd be able to adjust/fade the level of each pair of DB651's independent of the other pair.

Yep that's why I'm definitely goin 5 channel. I don't know what exact model of sub it is just know Polk 12 inch so I'm not 100% sure on the ohms. I guess I could look up specs on the Boston amp and see what ohm it is since it currently powers the sub. This was the kenwood I was looking at..could get it for around $350-400. But I'm not stuck on it. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113XR9005/Kenwood-Excelon-XR900-5.html?tp=115&awkw=75621875305&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=47439357385&awdv=m

trayson
06-08-2016, 05:51 PM
Yep that's why I'm definitely goin 5 channel. I don't know what exact model of sub it is just know Polk 12 inch so I'm not 100% sure on the ohms. I guess I could look up specs on the Boston amp and see what ohm it is since it currently powers the sub. This was the kenwood I was looking at..could get it for around $350-400. But I'm not stuck on it. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113XR9005/Kenwood-Excelon-XR900-5.html?tp=115&awkw=75621875305&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=47439357385&awdv=m

How much power the amp puts out for the sub channel in your case will be dependent on the SUB that you have. if it's a 4 ohm sub, it'll put out a certain number of watts, but if it's a 2 ohm sub it'll put out more power to the sub (but it'll be working the amp harder in the process and generating a little more heat).

For the money, I'd go with the PPI amp over the kenwood. the kenwood is almost double the price. The PPI amp will put out as much or more than the Boston amp you're replacing.

Wylietunes
06-08-2016, 09:16 PM
Just got a 24ssv gg. Boat was done at earmark years ago (saw a sticker on the boat and found the build on their site). Has 8 Polk db651 inboats with 6 db651 on tower and a 12 in Polk sub. Powered by 2 Boston GT-40 amps. The amp that powers 4 of the inboats and the sub has a blown channel. I was thinking of going to a kenwood 5 channel. Any suggestions comments for a new amp? Yes Ik the other amp would be replaced ideally bc of all the bridged channels but not gonna do that at this moment.

Im gathering your woofer is a 4 ohm woofer. Most 5 chnl amps are not going to deliver their potential unless the woofer is a 2 ohm. So take this into account based on the woofers needs. As an example, the Wet Sounds HTX-6 would give you 300W rms to a 4 ohm woofer and up to 110W rms for 4 in-boats. Thats more than plenty for yours. A step up from there, would be something like the Arc XDi1200.6. It would deliver 600W for the woofer and 150 for the in-boats.

wotan2525
06-09-2016, 02:20 PM
Also a big fan of the PPI Phantom amps. All of these small Class-D amps are basically clones of the first ones that were made for ARC. I suspect they even come out of the same factory. The WetSounds are custom designed to a different specification and more expensive because of the brand, the support, and the hydrophobic coating that they apply to the boards. NVX/PPI/AudioPipe/Kenwood/Polk/etc Class D amps are basically all the same. I like the PPI package but wouldn't have a problem with any of the others. Also, these amps are so inexpensive I would add 2 of them -- one dedicated to the speakers and one for the sub. It's worth it.

trayson
06-13-2016, 04:45 PM
Also a big fan of the PPI Phantom amps. All of these small Class-D amps are basically clones of the first ones that were made for ARC. I suspect they even come out of the same factory. The WetSounds are custom designed to a different specification and more expensive because of the brand, the support, and the hydrophobic coating that they apply to the boards. NVX/PPI/AudioPipe/Kenwood/Polk/etc Class D amps are basically all the same. I like the PPI package but wouldn't have a problem with any of the others. Also, these amps are so inexpensive I would add 2 of them -- one dedicated to the speakers and one for the sub. It's worth it.

I just upgraded my Kicker HLCD 6pack to a pair of WS Rev10's. I have them powered by a pair of PPI Phantom P600.2 amps. They're giving 600w bridged at 14.4v @ 4 ohms (400w RMS at 12v). So each REV410 is getting what they want and then some. I went out yesterday with it and it rocked my socks off. WOW. That said MLA told me that I need a 'proper amp' for my rev410s. I'll see the reasoning soon enough. Gotta love Wakeworld (of course he's posting on this thread too. No disrespect to MLA, he knows his stuff and I'm sure really believes in the quality differential from the brand names vs these new value amps... I'm sure time will tell.)

19supra19
06-13-2016, 04:55 PM
I just ordered the P900.5 so we will see!

Wylietunes
06-13-2016, 08:28 PM
I just upgraded my Kicker HLCD 6pack to a pair of WS Rev10's. I have them powered by a pair of PPI Phantom P600.2 amps. They're giving 600w bridged at 14.4v @ 4 ohms (400w RMS at 12v). So each REV410 is getting what they want and then some. I went out yesterday with it and it rocked my socks off. WOW. That said MLA told me that I need a 'proper amp' for my rev410s. I'll see the reasoning soon enough. Gotta love Wakeworld (of course he's posting on this thread too. No disrespect to MLA, he knows his stuff and I'm sure really believes in the quality differential from the brand names vs these new value amps... I'm sure time will tell.)

No offence taken, just want you to get the most out of your investment. Hopefully my PM to your inbox over on the moomba site (hate WW's PM setup) will explain. I hope you will see its not a brand thing.

trayson
06-13-2016, 08:56 PM
No offence taken, just want you to get the most out of your investment. Hopefully my PM to your inbox over on the moomba site (hate WW's PM setup) will explain. I hope you will see its not a brand thing.

Thanks. Helpful for sure. I got the PM and responded with a request for a smidge more clarification.

dusty2221
06-13-2016, 08:59 PM
Can you post it all here? I'd love to read about it.

trayson
06-14-2016, 11:28 AM
Can you post it all here? I'd love to read about it.

Mike told me that some of the more expensive amps have a feature set where it'll sum the L&R inputs internally in the amp. And he said that my PPI Amps don't do that and the L&R signals are meeting "at the voice coils" which reduces sound quality.

He recommended that instead of daisy chaining the input of amp #2 off the RCA output of Amp #1, to simply get a pair of RCA splitters and split/sum my signals BEFORE each of the amps. and any loss in line level signal strength will be minimal and likely wouldn't even be noticed since I'm running a 420SQ before my amps.

I figure for $10 in RCA's, it can't hurt to try splitting it that way versus daisy chaining the amps like I have them now.

Broke Pilot
06-15-2016, 04:26 AM
My problem with it is the fact that I just don't know if I can hear an extra $300+ in an amp. Lol my single 410 running off the old school q450.4 image dynamics after some tuning sounds amazing compared to my old threesome pro80's. For me, I'd have to have a back to back test on my boat and see if I could actually hear the difference.
(But I'm around jet engines most days without ear plugs walking around the ramps so I'd put money on me not being the best candidate for an audio quality judge! Lol) I've got a PPI 600.2 on the way to replace the ID 450, if nothing else just to clean up some wiring And make some room. But it'll be nice to hear those speakers on an amp that can put out the power they want!