Holley Rebuild

[dbruesehoff]

Hi all,

I am getting ready to rebuild the carb on my '88 Saltare. I am looking at the kit and realizing there may be more to it than your standard snowmobile carb lol. Any thing I should watch out for or any suggestions on what not to do or what to do when rebuilding. I want to get this done so I can take it out over the weekend and see how it runs compared to how it is now.

Thanks,
David

[Moor]

Holly's have more moving parts than a snowmobile carb, but its pretty much the same procedure. dismantle and clean everything. Take your time and do it on a large flat surface where you won't knock around or misplace and small parts. It's been a while since i've rebuilt one, but i seem to remember after reassembly, having to remove the float bowl with the accelerator pump and reposition the actuating arm on the accelerator pump because it wasn't put together in the correct position. Also be sure to replace the o-rings on the fuel transfer tubes that run between the 2 float bowls. Take an extra minute to be sure they are seated properly in the bowls to avoid leaks. That's all i got, hopefully someone else will chime in with some other tips.

[dbruesehoff]

Thanks for pointers. Looks like I have a flex plate to replace here in the next couple days so I am going to have spend my time on that rather than messing with the carb. The Holley will have to be next week's project.

[chris young]

I don't know the Saltare, but my Rider has the engine on about a 12 deg slope, if yours is the same, don't set the front float to factory spec. The spec on that carb is for level, and the float will be too high causing the carb to flood. If you're putting in new floats, and the boat is running fine now, measure the front float (carb upside down, gap between the float and the bowl) and then copy that gap to the new float. I ended up putting wedge plates in under my carb to level it and I run the floats to Holley spec, but that's a bit of a hassle to set up. Unfortunately for us, these marine carbs have no external float adjustment.

[CJD]

Holleys are very straight forward. They are 2 separate carbs held together by a common casting. The secondary metering block is just missing the idle and transition drillings.

The stock bowl gaskets have a coating that makes them stick badly, so cleaning the blocks takes a while. If you spray WD40 on the new gaskets before installing, it helps prevent the sticking...if you need to tune later.

Do not change the jets (4 of them), and check the power valve by blowing into it to check the diaphram. It must not leak. If it does, then read the number on the valve (8.5, 9.5, 10.5, etc.) And replace with the identical number valve. If a valve comes in the kit, I personally would only use it if it has the identical number. I'd even toss it if it had no number, as it will cause you grief when you accelerate if the kit gives you a different valve.

Of course...new seals, gaskets, float needles, and needle seats. New accelerator pump diaphram if you have one.

When apart, carefully check all passages to make sure they are clear by blowing compressed air through them...in a boat they tend to clog up.

Other than that...just pay attention to how it comes apart and put it back the same!