1989 Sunsport

[Rcweltz]

Been reading through these threads a bit and finally got one. Just picked up a 1989 Sunsport and got some questions about it. Going to be using it for wake boarding and surfing mostly. I'm very happy with it the few times I've takin it out. I'm aware of the stringers pretty commonly rotting in these and plan on redoing them someday, not today though..First thing I need to do is trace some electrical because it starts fine cold but then I can't shut it down for the day or it won't go again, sounds like it barely won't fully turn over.
I was told it has a different deck on it to not interfere with the wake but I need to reinforce those braces and am wondering the easiest way to get to them?
The previous owner didn't take the greatest care of it, needs a few gel coat repairs and am wondering if anyone's just redone the whole gel coat and about what that would cost? With a paint job maybe? Or if it would be better to just do the 5-10 repairs individually?
Seats need some love too but they can wait till the seasons over.
I'm in SF Bay Area, CA
Thanks!

[michael hunter]

Start with cleaning all the battery connections from bat terminals to solenoid ,starter and grounds

[Rcweltz]

I pulled off all the connections from the battery, to the solenoid, and to the starter and cleaned them up(sanded them and put di-electric on them). Then got my starter tested and it's fine. Took it out and have the same problem. Starts up just fine cold but after it gets up to temperature it'll do like a half of a crank then just click for a bit and maybe give me another half crank. Any thoughts what to check next? Could it be something getting wet that isn't suppose to? The guy that tested it said the starter could have an issue when it gets warm but they can't check for that, so how would I know forsure if that's the problem? Thanks for the help

[wotan2525]

The guy that tested it said the starter could have an issue when it gets warm but they can't check for that, so how would I know forsure if that's the problem? Thanks for the help

Use a screwdriver to short the two posts on the starter when the issue is happening. It it spins normal, you have a battery or wiring issue. If it spins slow, I'd guess it's the starter itself overheating. You can also try to cool it with a wet rag when it's having issues to see if that alleviates the problem.

[Knully]

Re: your swim deck brackets, depending on the extent of reinforcement you are after it may require gas tank removal. If you remove your ski locker liner, you will be able to see the bracket bolts and reinforcements behind the gas tank.


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[Rcweltz]

Thanks for the replies. Tranny started slipping last weekend so probably just gonna be done for the winter and get to work on everything.

[Rcweltz]

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If I can find the space I'd love to check out/ repair the stringers myself. Was the original floor glassed in? Might sound like a stupid question but the info I originally got on the boat was really limited (I.e. Boat being an 85' not a 89' lol same thing at this point right?) and am curious if a PO has already been in there because of the ballast setup and the rub rail looking fairly new. Hopefully the pictures work, if anyone knows any good shops or members in the SF Bay Area or Sacramento that would be awesome to point me in their direction!

[gnarlydude]

Post a pic of the engine from a few angles. I might have an answer for you.


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[Rcweltz]

Haven't had some free time in a while. I'll get the pics of the engine bay when I get out there again. New question though. So I'm going to be rebuilding my transmission and have a few transmission questions. I've done some research already but would like to double check some things because I've found different answers.
Tranny is a Burg Warner 1:1 71c model 10-17-004

Do I need to buy anything else besides the gaskets kit and clutch plates from skidim?

I don't wanna be taking it out again anytime soon so anything else I should replace while I have it out?

And then as far as removing it, should I take it out with the bell housing or just the transmission?

Where do I disconnect it from the mounts? Take out the stringer bolts or is there another way because I don't want this to lead to an early stringer repair.

And last how do I move the shaft back to give me room to work?

Thanks, gonna be my first time working on a tranny but usually I'm pretty good with disassembling and reassembling things so hopefully all goes well! ����

[Rcweltz]

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Hopefully these might help? Also if anything dosent look right please let me know! I'm not an engine person:confused:

[Monster450]

Hey, I'm a newbie on this forum and want to say tons of great knowlegde here. I would.like to chime in as I am a proud new 89 mariah owner and am currently going through a full resto.my engine and trans are totally out of the boat. There is four bolts holding the drive shaft coupler to the trans coupler if.you remove those you can loosen the gland packing nut around the shaft and literally slide the shaft aft out of the way to make life a little easier. But rember alignment is critical after your rebuild is done

[Rcweltz]

Ok, sounds simple enough! And welcome! Yes a lot of great info! I've learned more stuff then I wanted to know about my boat on here! Hopefully all for the better once I can clear out the garage and really get into the stringers! Have you pulled the cap yet? How difficult was it if so?

[Rcweltz]

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Here's a couple pictures. I started pulling the transmission today and determined it will be a lot easier to pull the bolts from the mounts. Should I worry that if my stringers are bad that my tranny mounts won't go back in and get tight? Or if it's bad then it would be bad right now and won't make a difference? And on each mount I only have 2 bolts in the stingers going in through the top, but there are 2 other cutouts for bolts going in from the inside but there isn't any holes into the stringers and looks like nothing has been in there ever. So is each mount suppose to have 2 or 4 mounting screws? I'm going to be buying the rebuild kit and parts through skidim, but what all should I do while I have it out because I don't want to have to pull the tranny again anytime soon. And is skidim the best place? Or will some of these other cheaper kits off eBay be fine?

[8509kmv]

Haven't had some free time in a while. I'll get the pics of the engine bay when I get out there again. New question though. So I'm going to be rebuilding my transmission and have a few transmission questions. I've done some research already but would like to double check some things because I've found different answers.
Tranny is a Burg Warner 1:1 71c model 10-17-004

Do I need to buy anything else besides the gaskets kit and clutch plates from skidim?

I don't wanna be taking it out again anytime soon so anything else I should replace while I have it out?

And then as far as removing it, should I take it out with the bell housing or just the transmission?

Where do I disconnect it from the mounts? Take out the stringer bolts or is there another way because I don't want this to lead to an early stringer repair.

And last how do I move the shaft back to give me room to work?

Thanks, gonna be my first time working on a tranny but usually I'm pretty good with disassembling and reassembling things so hopefully all goes well! ����

Just a heads up I thought my tranny was slipping last year make sure you have checked you fluid level while it was running and hot. When I checked mine last year first idling out it was perfect after running for a while and getting really warm the level was way low. From what I have read about the the velvet drive 1:1 you should never really have to worry about wearing it out. It is used on bigger boast with bigger engines and even then they don't wear out the clutches. Just my two cents.

[Rcweltz]

Yeah I was low on transmission fluid and I figure I should just do it all while I got it out. And it doesn't stay still in neutral so my understanding was the reverse plates were out but please correct me if I'm wrong because I'm just about to order everything from skidim

[Rcweltz]

Is it possible to sand the gelcoat with a high grit or wet sand it to remove scuffs or paint transfer? On my trailer there is no guides to keep the boat centered and to stop it from going up on the fenders when I'm pulling it out of the water. I got new fenders but want to solve the problem before putting them on so any suggestions that won't make my trailer look rediculous?

[jtryon]

to pull the tranny i would leave the mounts in place and just remove the horizonal bolts going from the mount to the transmission itself. that will give you less to do to align it when it goes back in. i got mine rebuilt 4 years ago and that was the easiest way to do it.

[lively]

https://sbo.sailboatowners.com/downloads/Hunter_gen_61323794.pdf


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[lively]

Yeah I was low on transmission fluid and I figure I should just do it all while I got it out. And it doesn't stay still in neutral so my understanding was the reverse plates were out but please correct me if I'm wrong because I'm just about to order everything from skidim

The kit is 200$ on eBay , skidim is great for odball


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[Rcweltz]

1800118002180031800418005

Finally dug into things, main shaft inside transmission was snapped right at the weak point where a hole goes through, has anyone seen this before? Everything else inside looked pretty good. Pretty sure I confirmed my rear main seal concern after looking at the back of the damper plate. Flywheel and gear both looked fine. Ordered some new parts. Transmission kit, damper plate, rear main seal, new main wires from battery, 4160 Holley carb. Still considering new starter.
Anyone know how to tell if it's normal or reverse rotation? Can't find a badge or number anywhere with a L or R in it. Ordered the reverse rotation rear main though.
Anyone know the torque for the flywheel bolts and damper plate bolts?
Also, I keep hearing about new impellers but can't find a write up or any info or how to on them. I've heard every year they should be changed so I want to find that out.
Thanks!

[Rcweltz]

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[jtryon]

you should have a standard (LH) rotation engine. The first 3 letters of the ID tag are PL (PCM Left rotation) or PR (PCM Right rotation).

looking from the front of the engine, the impeller will be on the left side where the top coolant tube comes down from the t-stat housing. there are two bolts that will need to be loosened to get the tension off the belt that drives the pump. the impeller is housed in there, it's an easy swap. just remember to mark the housing up and down so that you don't reinstall it upside down.

[scottschmitt]

Also, I keep hearing about new impellers but can't find a write up or any info or how to on them.


If you mean the impeller in the waterpump, then check out this thread (http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14549&title=impeller-direction). Not hard to change. Some folks change the impeller every year. Or you can take a look and just change the O-ring if the impeller is looking ok. Lots of people pull them during the winter so the vanes don't get set. Mostly, remember to mark Up and Down on the waterpump before it comes out so it doesn't go back in upside-down.

[Rcweltz]

Just got my transmission back in and it doesn't go down close enough to the shaft. About an inch off. Is it ok to pull the shaft up to the right position? On the transmission mounts there is like a sir clip between the rubber bushing and the top square adjustment and every time I try to adjust the mount up or down, the clip starts cutting into the rubber, are you suppose to take that clip off? Also I just realized that my whole engine is tilted to the passenger side. All this is ecspecially weird to me because I never messed with any of the adjustment when taking it out. Just had the tranny out to rebuild it and now trying to get it back in. I know how to do the alignment and have read a lot on how to do it but no one else had about a inch to adjust to. Any help is appreciated.