Winterization

[jbousman88]

I have an 86 Supra Sunsport that I have a few questions about winterizing. I used to have a 92 IO Rinker Captiva that we just drained the block and rain antifreeze to the out drive and stabilized the fuel and we were good to go. I'm not real big on filling it all full on antifreeze since you have to worry about the thermostat opening up and the thought of any liquid in the block at all just makes me nervous. Any other things to drain other than the block and the exhaust manifolds? Any other tips or guys that do it without antifreeze and just drain all of it? anything will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[scottschmitt]

Check out this thread: https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?5025-Winterizing-Link-Best-Post-with-Pics&highlight=winterization

There is one more drain on the elbow between the thermostat and the circulation pump (5 total drains).

You'll want to check on the water pump impeller. Lots of folks change that every year.

If you don't run antifreeze in the block, it might help to drain the plugs when the engine is nice and hot so the residual water steams off a bit. My understanding is that having antifreeze in there might keep the gaskets moist.

I add the fuel stabilizer, get the engine warm, change the oil and oil filter, change the fuel filter, run the engine again, fog it, drain all the plugs, fill the block with antifreeze, pull the water pump, put the battery in the basement, wipe everything down, toss a box of dryer sheets in somewhere.

[jbousman88]

how do you go about filling the block with antifreeze? Run the engine and do the 5 gallon bucket method?

[SquamInboards]

how do you go about filling the block with antifreeze? Run the engine and do the 5 gallon bucket method?

That's the best way, yeah. In absence of a bucket or similar system, I've just taken hoses off here and there and filled them with antifreeze (the pink stuff). I do this with my heater, with the main water intake hose, and each of the hoses to the manifold from the thermostat housing. This is, of course, after draining out all the water via the 5 drain points mentioned above.

But running the intake hose from a bucket filled with the pink stuff, until it comes out the exhaust, is a much better way.

[scottschmitt]

17839
I detach the hose from water pump and pour antifreeze into the thermostat. I'm pulling the water pump anyway.
After 2 gallons or so I usually open the block drain a little to make sure there is pink coming out and I have a kid check the exhaust for pink coming out there too.
If you pull antifreeze from a bucket and don't drain the block before hand, remember that you need to run enough into the block that the water in there is good and diluted.

[MJHKnox]

17839


After he is done with with the funnel, it doubles as a beer bong.

[roosm]

17839
I detach the hose from water pump and pour antifreeze into the thermostat. I'm pulling the water pump anyway.
After 2 gallons or so I usually open the block drain a little to make sure there is pink coming out and I have a kid check the exhaust for pink coming out there too.
If you pull antifreeze from a bucket and don't drain the block before hand, remember that you need to run enough into the block that the water in there is good and diluted.

I am not really getting it.

Are you running your engine without your water pump attached, and instead manually pouring water down the thermostat intake?
If the engine is not running, unless it was really hot to begin with like 200 f, the thermostat would be closed.
That means you would be pouring antifreeze-solution into the thermostat housing, through the by-pass hoses into the manifolds. Since the block would be full of water it would not go into the block.
Therefore it will go out through the risers and out the exhaust.
And little or no antifreeze would get into the block.

Opening the block drain will allow the antifreeze to get down into the block but you cannot be sure that it would go everywhere in the engine and you will end up with a much more diluted solution of anti-freeze than you begun with.
Since most use something like a 50/50, 40/60 or at least 30/70 mix of antifreeze/water and most seldom see temperatures of -20 F which would be the "bursting point" of a 30/70 mix I guess you are probably fine using this method. I would assume antifreeze would dilate slowly by itself without mixing and therefore even if you have 1 gallon of 50/50 anti-freeze in your manifolds that would travel down to the block by always trying to reach the most even solution? Like osmosis?
This way you would have like a 20/80 mix in the end and even that gives you protection down to +10 F.

However, this is really a risky way of doing it.

You should always drain your block and your manifolds.
Then you should add anti-freeze mix of whatever you deem adequate. We usually get like +10 F and sometimes, in extreme cases get down to -10 F. Like once a decade.
I use something like 40/60...

You can add this antifreeze by letting the engine suck it up or by pouring down the thermostat. As long as the block and manifolds are empty any way is okay.

I like to do it like this:
Disconnect my v-drive hose from the intake at the bottom of the boat.
Put this hose so that it is bent upwards (towards the sky).
Put a garden hose in the hose.
Start engine, let it warm up.
Once engine is nice and warm, shut it off.
Drain the block by loosening the two plugs. Drain the manifolds by loosening the quick-connect on the hose between the manifolds.
Drain the v-drive and transmission simply by taking the v-drive intake hose and pointing it down towards the bilge.
Reinstall plugs, quick-connect hose and put the v-drive intake hose in upward position again.
Pour anti-freeze mix into the hose using a funnel and start the engine. Continue pouring anti-freeze down the hose until you see antifreeze from your exhaust and shut off engine. Usually takes 4-5 gallons.
While pouring the anti-freeze I usually have someone spraying fogging oil down the throat of my throttle body.

This way you can be a lot more certain that the engine is full of a good mix of anti-freeze and you will protect the engine from corrosion.
You should not leave it empty.

Best of luck,
Mike

[jbousman88]

Silly question but the trans direct drive should not have any water that runs to it for any reason? (cooling or anything?) and which hose is the one i should be pouring the antifreeze down?

[chris young]

The transmission has a water/oil heat ex-changer that is inline with the raw water intake. The transmission is cooled by circulating oil through that. There is no water in the tranny (unless something is terribly wrong)

[chris young]

Everyone has their own method, mine is to remove the thermostat and suck a bucket of antifreeze up the raw water intake, I have a separate hose that I connect to the intake side of the above mentioned heat exchanger, that way the impeller gets a good drink as well as the rest of the motor. I then pull all the drain plugs, and put it back together so it's ready for spring. I also do the fogging oil down the carb while running but I can't stall the motor so I just spray a bunch and shut it down. (this I do with the belt off the raw water pump)

[scottschmitt]

I am not really getting it.


I think I'm mostly doing it like you, except I use the toilet plunger instead of pulling the water intake hose, and I pour the antifreeze into the thermostat instead of sucking it through the water pump.

I warm the engine, change the oil, run it again, and shut it down. Then drain the block and manifolds, and pour antifreeze into the thermostat. I was thinking the thermostat would be open still and antifreeze would go into the block and the manifolds. After a couple gallons if I open the block drains, there is nice pink coming out, so that path seems open still. Usually it takes 4-5 gallons before it is pink coming out the exhaust. Since I'm removing the water pump, the hose from the water pump to the thermostat always seems easy to use.

Picture is from the PCM owners manual ... kinda cute in an old-timey way. They suggest pulling every plug and putting fogging oil into each cylinder. That seems like a lot and I haven't been doing that. Just fogging down the carb.

No doubt the block can't have water or diluted antifreeze in it.

[roosm]

Hey,
Okay, this time I am getting it. First time it wasn't real clear that you drained the block and manifolds before pouring antifreeze into the thermostat. I have done your exact way also. One year my starter-engine gave up on me when I was trying to winterize.
Same thing. You pour antifreeze in and I let it suck it in. Shouldn't really matter unless you have water stuck in your waterpump that freeze. But if you remove that or change the impeller afterwards that won't be an issue.
I am not 100% sure but I am pretty certain that IF the block is empty it wouldn't really matter if the thermostat is open or not.
The thermostat controls how much water gets INTO the block, but has nothing to do with how much comes out. Since the out-put of water is connected to the manifolds that are always getting water, thus in an "always open" from raw water pump mode.
This would tell me that pouring water into a thermostat housing with a closed thermostat would get water into the manifolds, but also INTO the engine but the "wrong" way. As long as the block is empty.
I don't think you can ever be 100% certain that the thermostat is actually open short of removing it...

Only difference is that my way I get antifreeze in my V-drive at the same time. But you don't have one, I guess..

I could of course accomplish this by pouring water into the hose coming from the v-drive at the raw water pump. But it is too much trouble...

Mike

[roosm]

Silly question but the trans direct drive should not have any water that runs to it for any reason? (cooling or anything?) and which hose is the one i should be pouring the antifreeze down?

Drain the block and the manifolds first. Then you should disconnect the hose going to the thermostat from the raw water pump. And pour anti-freeze into the thermostat through this hose or another hose that fits on the connection on the thermostat.
Not sure if this makes sense, but if you disconnect the hose from the raw water pump only and then hold it up you can use this hose to pour anti-freeze into the thermostat. Otherwise disconnect the hose from the thermostat and use another hose to pour antifreeze into the thermostat.
This should fill your block and your manifolds with anti-freeze mix.

Then you should remove your impeller since otherwise you might have water locked in your waterpump.

Or you could go the route that Chris Young was saying, which would be similar to what I first said and let the raw water pump suck water into the engine.
Guess you don't have a v-drive so therefore pouring into the oil-cooler that is inline with the raw water intake would be the same thing as I do.

Best of luck!
Mike

[jtryon]

i'm not sure why you wouldn't just do the bucket method; run it up to operating temp where you know the thermostat is open, then switch from the hose to the pink antifreeze in the same bucket while the engine is running. this makes sure the AF gets everywhere it needs to be. once it's got 1/2 gallon left, fog the carb until the motor stalls and you're good to go. i've been doing this in the cold CT winters for 6 years now with no issues.

before: put stabil or startron in the gas tank, fill the tank full of gas. run to temperature, then change the oil with cheap 5w/30 and your normal filter. then do the winterizing method above.
after: pull batteries, loosen belt tensioner so both belts are slack, pour some of the excess pink antifreeze in the bilge since most of ours don't get all the water out via bilge pump.
spring time: replace spark plugs, tension belts, install batteries. start motor and after everything checks out, change oil with your normal oil.

[NorCalPR]

Just did mine yesterday. Here in ca...

Fill with stabil marine.
Run till its up to operating temp.
Drain the block and manifolds.
Take off the water pump hose and drain
Take out the impeller
Take out the line from the raw water pump to the block and blow out
Turn the batt off (on isolation switch. It fires up every time in the summer)


No fogging for me. I store mine under a big cover so it doesnt get wet anyways.

I change the oil after winter.

Zero issues here and the last motor i had apart looked just fine...

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[roosm]

i'm not sure why you wouldn't just do the bucket method; run it up to operating temp where you know the thermostat is open, then switch from the hose to the pink antifreeze in the same bucket while the engine is running. this makes sure the AF gets everywhere it needs to be. once it's got 1/2 gallon left, fog the carb until the motor stalls and you're good to go. i've been doing this in the cold CT winters for 6 years now with no issues.

before: put stabil or startron in the gas tank, fill the tank full of gas. run to temperature, then change the oil with cheap 5w/30 and your normal filter. then do the winterizing method above.
after: pull batteries, loosen belt tensioner so both belts are slack, pour some of the excess pink antifreeze in the bilge since most of ours don't get all the water out via bilge pump.
spring time: replace spark plugs, tension belts, install batteries. start motor and after everything checks out, change oil with your normal oil.

And probably it will work, but you are just playing the lottery every time, but with fairly good odds, and so far you are lucky!
Question is if it is worth it to save the time, like 5 minutes to loosen the plugs and emptying the block and manifolds before running antifreeze.
You might regret yourself if you end up being unlucky one year with a cracked block.

Even if the thermostat is open since the engine is up to operating temp you are still just idling and probably using quite cold water from your hose.
Since the raw water pump is powerful enough to easily handle cooling the block and the exhaust manifolds and risers even if the engine would be operating in 100 + degrees with 80 + degrees water temps we can be sure that the engine does not require ALL the water that the pump is pulling to be able to cool.
I am not sure what amount, but we can probably assume it is fairly low percentage.
The rest of the water goes through the bypass into the manifolds and out the exhaust.

So let us assume that 50 % of the water travels through the thermostat (which I think is waaay more than in reality) and through the block before going to the manifolds and the rest goes straight to the manifolds and then out the exhaust.
The block holds 3 gallons of water roughly, I think...
Then you would need at least 6 gallons of anti-freeze mix to replace it all.
I would however think that with the probably just slightly open thermostat and the full flow to the manifolds you will see far less than 50 % traveling this route. Here comes the lottery. You need to know your thermostat is fully open and will keep fully open for the period of time required. Only way to really know is to remove it. Then you should be at least almost safe.
So you might need 12 gallons or 20 gallons to get ALL antifreeze in the block.
Also it is hard to be sure that all water passages inside the block get anti-freeze mix in them.

However I am pretty sure antifreeze and water mix by them self. You wouldn't be able to create a "float"cocktail with them. It would just mix.

So realistically what happens is that from your original 5 gallons of antifreeze 1 gallon gets into the block and 1.5 gallons stays in the manifold and hoses, 2.5 gallons goes down the drain.
This still gets you enough antifreeze for the natural "mix" to get the dilution to 25% anti-freeze in the end. Which would give you a bursting point right around -10 degrees farenheit.
And the engine would actually have to sit in -10 for long periods of time before the water reaching this temperature.

The issue with ALL methods where you don't empty the block is you never know for sure.
Unless you re-circulate the antifreezemix for extended periods of time, not sure how to do this with an inboard, an outdrive in a bucket sure...

Hopefully this makes it more clear.

My supra survived 2 years, one where we saw -10 or even -15 F temps using my method but without draining the block, before I knew any better.
I am very thankful that it worked out and I didn't end up spending a few grand on a new block and all the labor.

Mike

[jbousman88]

Ok so mine is done and im pretty confident about it. Drained all of the plugs (two on the block, both exhaust manifolds and pump). So that should free up the whole system with no water. Then I removed the raw water pump hose and dropped it in a 5 gallon bucked of antifreeze and let it run. When i got down to the last little bit i fogged the carb and shut it down. Antifreeze was coming out the exhaust as well which shouldn't really matter since the system was basically drained of water anyway. Removed the battery and siphoned out what little gas i had left. Checked all the plugs on the block and it was all pink. Even with any little water being let if there was any in the pump or what not it should be beyond mixed enough. Thoughts?

[NorCalPR]

Ok so mine is done and im pretty confident about it. Drained all of the plugs (two on the block, both exhaust manifolds and pump). So that should free up the whole system with no water. Then I removed the raw water pump hose and dropped it in a 5 gallon bucked of antifreeze and let it run. When i got down to the last little bit i fogged the carb and shut it down. Antifreeze was coming out the exhaust as well which shouldn't really matter since the system was basically drained of water anyway. Removed the battery and siphoned out what little gas i had left. Checked all the plugs on the block and it was all pink. Even with any little water being let if there was any in the pump or what not it should be beyond mixed enough. Thoughts?
Youll be fine. Did you get it hit before draining?

Fwiw i like to leave my gas full, with stabilizer in it. That way if any moisture does get in (which ive never had happen) the stabilizer should take care of it

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[docdrs]

Never dilute plumbing antifreeze, you will be sorry. A 25% dilution of plumbing atifreeze which starts at 60% propylene glycol will give you (15 % prop glycol)negligible freeze protection and maybe 15 F burst protection. Always drain your block and poke the holes for rust. Sucking antifreeze, or pouring in a thermostat tube do the same thing.....the antifreeze will go thru to the J tube down to the circulating pump and into the block , look at the tstat housing.

Fyi. There is approx 5 gals of water in our entire systems, it would take about 45 gallons of plumbing antifreeze to properly protect the engine in -30 weather.

[jbousman88]

I did not mix my antifreeze. I drained the whole system of water which was about five gallons and then took the hose off the water intake and sucked up about 5-6 gallons of RV Marine antifreeze until it was coming out of the exhaust. I also checked the drains on the block to be sure it was straight pink antifreeze. Im assuming you meant 4-5 gallons and not 45?

[NorCalPR]

I did not mix my antifreeze. I drained the whole system of water which was about five gallons and then took the hose off the water intake and sucked up about 5-6 gallons of RV Marine antifreeze until it was coming out of the exhaust. I also checked the drains on the block to be sure it was straight pink antifreeze. Im assuming you meant 4-5 gallons and not 45?
If the tstat was not open (which is probabpy was not) the water coming out of the exhaust was just the bypassed water coming off the manifolds....

Thats what he meant and i agree. Thats the reason i dont mess with the antifreeze..

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[jbousman88]

If the system was already drained then the antifreeze is just insurance since there will be no water in the system. I poured it past the thermostat as well to fill the block just for piece of mind

[roosm]

If the system was already drained then the antifreeze is just insurance since there will be no water in the system. I poured it past the thermostat as well to fill the block just for piece of mind

Yep, you should be fine.

Bottom line is.
Drain your system before putting in antifreeze.
Use premixed antifreeze or mix your own to the grade you need. Different in Florida compared to Canada for sure.
Leave your system with antifreeze in it since the engine will rust worse from oxygen than lake-water and antifreeze also works as anti-corrosion.

[docdrs]

https://forum.supraboats.com/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by jbousman88 https://forum.supraboats.com/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?p=126298#post126298)
I did not mix my antifreeze. I drained the whole system of water which was about five gallons and then took the hose off the water intake and sucked up about 5-6 gallons of RV Marine antifreeze until it was coming out of the exhaust. I also checked the drains on the block to be sure it was straight pink antifreeze. Im assuming you meant 4-5 gallons and not 45?



If the tstat was not open (which is probabpy was not) the water coming out of the exhaust was just the bypassed water coming off the manifolds....

Thats what he meant and i agree. Thats the reason i dont mess with the antifreeze..

Depending on your t stat housing configuration , fluid from the impeller pump flows directly into your Jtube and down to your circ pump and into your engine if there is no fluid in your block. If there is fluid in your block then is will be pushed out thru your exhaust manifolds. Fluid does not enter the block thru the thermostat it only leaves the block thru the thermostat.

If you suck up antifreeze from your intake pipe without draining these pipes ( the pipes before the impeller, and or Vdrive, and the Jpipe) then you are effectively diluting the antifreeze that enters the block as the water in these pipes will enter first. So drain these pipes too before you suck up any antifreeze

If you think you can just suck up antifreeze (prop glycol which the -50 is about 50% prop glycol) and recirculate it by recapturing it at exhaust ( some have elaborate setups for this) and allowing engine to come up to 160-180 degrees to get the thermostat open for proper mixing .....you would need 45 gallons of if (yes 45 gallons) to bring the 5 gallons of water in the cooling system up to an adequate prop glycol % for freeze protection.

So In a nut shell ...just drain and shop vac/blow the engine as per the manual instructions block, exhaust, vdrive, impeller, v drive muffler ,any intake hoses, water strainer and jtube and your good. If you want to be anal and I do it at times the suck up antifreeze after you have drained everything or I have poured it in thru the top of the J pipe.

And if you want to be most anal, remove your exhaust quick connect drain tubes at the exhaust once and a while to make sure there are no deposits to prevent draining of the exhaust manifolds....you can also just blow in each of the hoses to make sure they are clear too.

Now if you want to know how to winterize seadoo 2 stroke motors in 5 minutes thats a different story

[jbousman88]

Ok ok now I'm following you about the 45 gallons. i drained all of my water our previously before pumping AF in. The risk of running it up to temp and having water in the system without draining it would have me losing sleep all winter and wondering if my block is cracking hahahaha :confused:

[Zkdk3000]

Everyone has their own method, mine is to remove the thermostat and suck a bucket of antifreeze up the raw water intake, I have a separate hose that I connect to the intake side of the above mentioned heat exchanger, that way the impeller gets a good drink as well as the rest of the motor. I then pull all the drain plugs, and put it back together so it's ready for spring. I also do the fogging oil down the carb while running but I can't stall the motor so I just spray a bunch and shut it down. (this I do with the belt off the raw water pump)


Yes I agree this is the quickest way. Take thermostat out and store it inside the house so it doesn't get sticky from sitting. No waiting for operating temp, suck about half a gallon of water and then straight to RV af. Spray some oil into cylinders, fuel stabil, all done.

[Zkdk3000]

Ok ok now I'm following you about the 45 gallons. i drained all of my water our previously before pumping AF in. The risk of running it up to temp and having water in the system without draining it would have me losing sleep all winter and wondering if my block is cracking hahahaha :confused:


Ya there is actually a YouTube video of a guy and his kids winterizing his boat, or attempting to. Starts boat, let's it run very briefly and starts sucking af before tstat opens and it all just runs out his pipes. Think it's called "my kids winterizing my
Boat". Use it as a reference of what not to do.

[docdrs]

ok, I am going to say it.......removing your tstat is absolutely the stupidest thing to do... #1 you are just diluting the water in your block with antifreeze.(why why why?)(and if you did drain the block it is way easier to pour it down the jtube as you need to get the water out of this hose anyways.) #2. it is way quicker to drain the block thru the block drains and you don't have to remove and reinstall your tstat. #3 you don't have to frig around with the tstat gasket and make sure its not leaking afterwards. its common sense

[jbousman88]

Agree with docdrs. Just drain the block and hoses and pump and then you know for a fact there is nothing in there to expand and crack.

[Zkdk3000]

Too each their own.

[chris young]

Pulling the t stat for me is a time saver, it takes so little time and I pull pure antifreeze into both pumps and the intake hoses that may not drain. Yes it's diluted in the block, and manifold, but at least there is diluted antifreeze in the nooks and crannies that may not completely drain.

[docdrs]

Pulling the t stat for me is a time saver, it takes so little time and I pull pure antifreeze into both pumps and the intake hoses that may not drain. Yes it's diluted in the block, and manifold, but at least there is diluted antifreeze in the nooks and crannies that may not completely drain.

Do you drain anything before you do this?

[chris young]

Nope. Pull the T stat suck a bucket of rv antifreeze in, then drain the block and the manifolds. I don't bother with hoses or pumps because they have pure antifreeze in them. I've been doing it this way for 4 years now with many -30 C days and have had no issues.

I do agree that the t stat housing gasket is a pain, but I'm going to try to make a special rubber one to fix this problem.

[SquamInboards]

Nope. Pull the T stat suck a bucket of rv antifreeze in, then drain the block and the manifolds. I don't bother with hoses or pumps because they have pure antifreeze in them. I've been doing it this way for 4 years now with many -30 C days and have had no issues.

I do agree that the t stat housing gasket is a pain, but I'm going to try to make a special rubber one to fix this problem.

So, if you're draining things anyway, why not do that step first? Then replace plugs and pour in a/f through a hose instead of the t-stat. Same result without removing the t-stat?

[docdrs]

Nope. Pull the T stat suck a bucket of rv antifreeze in, then drain the block and the manifolds. I don't bother with hoses or pumps because they have pure antifreeze in them. I've been doing it this way for 4 years now with many -30 C days and have had no issues.

I do agree that the t stat housing gasket is a pain, but I'm going to try to make a special rubber one to fix this problem.

Well , I guess it eliminates draining the j tube , but thats the only thing, assuming no heater or shower .........a whole lot of time and work imo, when its so much easier to undo one clamp instead of the whole tstat...... I would forget the tstat and just drain or suck out the j tube when you drain the block n manifolds...... oh wait, thats what the manual says.......... please do not ever leave diluted plumbing antifreeze anywhere

[docdrs]

So, if you're draining things anyway, why not do that step first? Then replace plugs and pour in a/f through a hose instead of the t-stat. Same result without removing the t-stat?

He will have all his pre tstat hoses winterized but not draining sucking out the jtube puts his circ pump at risk. Water/ diluted p freeze will sit in the jtube and at the bottom of the circ pump leading to earier failure of the pump and or seals......... I def agree , removing the tstat is silly when you just have to pull the j pipe which takes 1 minute

[SquamInboards]

He will have all his pre tstat hoses winterized but not draining sucking out the jtube puts his circ pump at risk. Water/ diluted p freeze will sit in the jtube and at the bottom of the circ pump leading to earier failure of the pump and or seals......... I def agree , removing the tstat is silly when you just have to pull the j pipe which takes 1 minute

But there's a plug for draining the J-pipe, right? Which is one of the points you would drain in the initial drain process. You and I are in agreement, I'm sure. Never in 8 years working at a marina did we pull a t-stat to winterize a boat under normal circumstances. Is it a big deal? Nope.

Everyone has their own idiosyncrasies when it comes to winterizing, that's for sure. Start to finish, I bet hardly anyone follows the exact procedure of someone else in this forum. Oh, you use a funnel? I use a bucket. You drain the heater with an air compressor? I use nitrogen-filled baloons pressurized to 2.7 psi and not 0.1psi more! You use NAPA fogging oil? I use Marvel Mystery Oil, 3 drops per cylinder then rotate the engine 1 revolution by hand after each cylinder. You leave the cover on? Off? You don't have a trickle charger 24/7? You change oil in the spring only? Your heated garage only has ONE backup generator? You don't use dryer sheets? You don't have a video baby monitor of your boat on live feed to your iphone all winter????

Just in case it's not abundantly clear, there is a LOT of sarcasm in the above paragraph. Happy New Year everyone.

[docdrs]

But there's a plug for draining the J-pipe, right?

I wish... at least not on any I've seen.....definitely would be a little time saver...... I knew I never should have thrown that monitor out when the kids were out of the crib.

[scottschmitt]

You don't have a video baby monitor of your boat on live feed to your iphone all winter???? [/I]

Dang ... I knew I'd forget something this year.

[chris young]

You've given me a few things to think about for sure, but I'm not sure why you would say that my recirc pump would have diluted antifreeze in it if I'm pulling pure antifreeze through it.

[SquamInboards]

I wish... at least not on any I've seen.....definitely would be a little time saver...... I knew I never should have thrown that monitor out when the kids were out of the crib.

Are we not talking about this one? See pic below, borrowed from CCFan. I hope.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/elbowdrain.jpg

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/elbowdrain.jpg

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12250

[docdrs]

Are we not talking about this one? See pic below, borrowed from CCFan. I hope.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/elbowdrain.jpg

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/elbowdrain.jpg

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12250


Now why cant indmar do that ?

[leetudor]

Now why cant indmar do that ?

Mercruiser does also.

[Jetlink]

Are we not talking about this one? See pic below, borrowed from CCFan. I hope.

Correct me if I am wrong as I do this as a routine now and stopped counting but essentially there are a total of 5 plugs to pull to drain a PCM 351 block. Two on the exhaust manifolds at the rear, two on either side of the block and that one on the "J" tube.

[SquamInboards]

Correct me if I am wrong as I do this as a routine now and stopped counting but essentially there are a total of 5 plugs to pull to drain a PCM 351 block. Two on the exhaust manifolds at the rear, two on either side of the block and that one on the "J" tube.

That is correct on a PCM Ford 351. The transmission cooler also has a plug (most likely) but isn't necessary to drain if you take hoses off to drain them, and/or do antifreeze in any fashion.

I didn't realize the Indmar version didn't have that plug at the bottom of the j-tube.

[Jetlink]

That is correct on a PCM Ford 351. The transmission cooler also has a plug (most likely) but isn't necessary to drain if you take hoses off to drain them, and/or do antifreeze in any fashion.

I didn't realize the Indmar version didn't have that plug at the bottom of the j-tube.

PCM > Indmar on this one then I guess...