1985 Supra Sunsport

[Rcweltz]

I have a few questions that I've found a few answers on and some I haven't found any.

Transmission
It started slipping last time I was out and when I checked the fluid it had a pinkish color. Also when I'm in neutral the boat doesn't stay still it pushes forward.
I'm replacing the oil cooler and getting rebuilding the transmission with the gasket kit, clutch pack, and reverse plates.

No start when warm
Every time it's cold or I let it sit for 30 mins or so after running it fires right up. But if I try and start it right after running it will click and maybe really slowly try and turn over once.
Just checked my boat and it is a Weber carb. I'm guessing it's not marine so if someone can point me in the direction of a good place to buy a Holley or Edelman at a good price, that would be awesome. Hopefully that will solve the problem because this one looks like crap anyways.

Also there's just a lot of leaks it's seams like. When I pulled my starter to have it tested it's was a lot of oil or something on and around it. My fuel pump is really oily or maybe has gas on it that a bunch of gunk has stuck to. And right below my spark arrester is a good amount of gas there too.
I just wanna be able to ride this summer!!

1797217973

[michael hunter]

I would replace the carb with a stock Holley marine carb. You need to check the main battery cables they sometimes corrode inside the isolation. I would just replace them they are over 30 years old. There is a good chance you have a rear main seal leaking you will need to pull the engine so you may as well change all the seals and gaskets.

[Rcweltz]

Do I need to pull the engine to do the rear main seal even if I already got my transmission out? Or is there a way to acces it without pulling the engine?

[Rcweltz]

179791798017981
Can anyone tell me what the last picture is? It has electrical going to it but can't figure out what it is.

[lively]

179791798017981
Can anyone tell me what the last picture is? It has electrical going to it but can't figure out what it is.

Looks like an electric fuel pump , and they left the old pump in the place so oil wouldn't leak from timing cover , electric can work as long as the power is switched when the engine turns off .


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[lively]

Do I need to pull the engine to do the rear main seal even if I already got my transmission out? Or is there a way to acces it without pulling the engine?

No you do not need to remove engine , but you will need to remove flywheel and and dampener .


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[michael hunter]

lively is correct if the trans is removed then you can access the seal by removing the flywheel . At this point I would remove the engine to gain access to all the seals and gaskets. Also there is a special tool to install the rear main I have it are you close to Georgia?

[lively]

lively is correct if the trans is removed then you can access the seal by removing the flywheel . At this point I would remove the engine to gain access to all the seals and gaskets. Also there is a special tool to install the rear main I have it are you close to Georgia?

Curious on the special tool ? What does it look like ?


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[Rcweltz]

No I'm in CA, what is the tool? I've got the transmission just about put back together, and want to get started on the rear main once I finish. Wasn't planning on pulling the engine because I don't really have the equipment for it but could if I absolutely needed to. That would just be to get to the oil pan/ gasket? Or what other benefits would it give me?

[Rcweltz]

Jeez just something else that can go wrong, could that electric fuel pump wiring be the problem to a no start when warm issue? I don't like that and think I should go back to mechanical, thought?

[Rcweltz]

Just a little update, still haven't had a successful time out this year :mad:

Rebuilt my velvet drive
Replaced my damper plate
New oil cooler
Bought a Holley 4160 and got it all hooked up
Replaced my rear main seal
Changed my impeller
4 new tower speakers and 4 new cabin speakers

Found the issue with my no start when warm issue, replaced the power and ground cables from the battery and she turns over every time now!

When I rebuilt my transmission the main shaft was snapped! Got sheered off right at the point where a hole goes through it, has anyone seen this before or know what would cause it?! I left a picture of it

I'm still getting oil in the bildge though so tonight I took the transmission back off, and I can see oil right below the rear seal on the bottom round lip of my oil pan. I've already bought another main seal to replace it, but I'm starting to wonder if the problem is my oil pan gasket. Really want to figure out before I go back through the process of installing my transmission, again.
So my question is, do I have to remove the engine to change the oil pan gasket? And is there any way to start the engine without the transmission hooked up to get a better view of where the oil is leaking from? The red one in the picture is the old one and the black one is the new one
My other issue is my throttle cable and idle screw, when I back out the idle screw to a point, the throttle doesn't follow it past a certain point, is that what the adjustment on the throttle cable is for?
Thanks!18287182881828918290

[Milliken37]

Just a little update, still haven't had a

I’m curious how much you spent rebuilding your transmission? I’m having issues with reverse so I may have to do mine soon



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[jtryon]

i would call Fantastic Finish Marine in Ohio and send it to them for a rebuild. they are well-known as the best Velvet Drive re-builder around. i had the same problem as you--lost reverse in the middle of the season one year. i used it the rest of the season then pulled it early next spring and sent it to them. IIRC it was $100 shipping, $1100-1200 for the rebuild and a new damper plate, and i had a few buddies help put it back in. it's been perfect since then. quotes i got from local shops were for $2200+, so it was a no-brainer IMO.

[Cooose]

I’m curious how much you spent rebuilding your transmission? I’m having issues with reverse so I may have to do mine soon



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If you decide to tackle it yourself....https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?10280-How-to-rebuild-a-velvet-drive-10-17-004-1-1/page3

[Milliken37]

If you decide to tackle it yourself....


i would call Fantastic Finish Marine in Ohio and send

jtryon- would go that route if I weren’t so broke and eager to learn.

Cooose- thanks for the great thread! Is there a way to get “broken” images to show? Maybe I’ll contact Lively and see if he still has the originals.




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[Cooose]

If you can get through to lively he will help for sure. He's since sold his Supra so not sure how often he checks in around here. He's also got a YouTube channel which he may be more active on.
http://youtu.be/8ePCVGDxle0

Also read through this while waiting to hear back from lively...
https://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=53874

[scottschmitt]

Great write up from the mastercraft forum. Thanks.

[Rcweltz]

I believe I spent about 5-600 rebuilding mine. Pretty simple if you basic knowledge and tools. Definitely rewarding. I took a bunch of pictures so let me know if you need any.

[Milliken37]

I believe I spent about 5-600 rebuilding mine. Pretty simple if you basic knowledge and tools. Definitely rewarding. I took a bunch of pictures so let me know if you need any.

Definitely better than buying new or paying a shop. Will do! Hoping to get her out for the first time on Friday for further inspection, but now she’s running rich. I just can’t catch a break.

[Rcweltz]

Yup I hear you. That’s how it goes sometimes. Hit me up if you need pictures of anything I have a bunch now from going through a lot of stuff with mine.

[Milliken37]

I’m struggling to get the tranny off. I’ve removed 2 bolts and 4 nuts that fasten the transmission to the flywheel cover. The engine is lifted up in the back. The tranny is even loose from the fly when cover by an 1/8”. But still something is holding it up....


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[jtryon]

i think there were 8 bolts or nuts total, you might be missing two on the bottom.

[Cooose]

I’m struggling to get the tranny off. I’ve removed 2 bolts and 4 nuts that fasten the transmission to the flywheel cover. The engine is lifted up in the back. The tranny is even loose from the fly when cover by an 1/8”. But still something is holding it up....


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My tranny is just sitting on a dolly, I can snap some pics if you think they may help

[Milliken37]

i think there were 8 bolts or nuts total, you might be missing two on the bottom.

I looked into it and there’s only 6. Once I found that out for sure I decided to go ape s*%# on it.


My tranny is just sitting on a dolly, I can snap some pics if you think they may help

Thanks Cooose, just got it. It required a wedge, breaker bar, and a hammer. Not sure if it was the tranny seized up in the fly wheel cover or if it was the input shaft seized up in the fly wheel.


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