Water Coming in from Rudder on 1989 Supra Mariah

[Monterosas]

Hello, Newbie here. Have owned a 1989 Supra Mariah for 3 years.


I have a constant stream of water coming in from the rudder. When I look between the back seats, the rudder has what seems like a big nut similar to the one that is on the propeller shaft. I just repacked this one (prop shaft) - so I figure it is a matter of repacking the one for the rudder. But it seems impossible to get to it without removing the fuel tank.

So my questions are:

1. am I correct that I need to repack the rudder like I repack the propeller shaft?
2. do I need to remove the fuel tank to do it?
3. how do I remove the fuel tank? I siphoned out the fuel - released the straps and the hoses (except for the hose to fill the tank - couldn't get much movement on that one - yet) - I just couldn't really lift the tank much (at the other end) so I decided to wait on removing that hose. I am trying to lift the tank out - but maybe I should be removing the rear seats and shoving the tank forward?
I was planning on bringing the boat to my shop where I can use some straps and a forklift and give it a nice pull.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Thank you in advance.

[Salty87]

From what I've read there are a couple different styles rudder from this time period. Here's a very detailed thread on one of them: https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?10163-Repairing-a-older-style-rudder-port&highlight=rudder+packing

There are lots of other threads if you search rudder packing.

1. Yes, the rudder seal will eventually wear out but it may not be the same style packing as the shaft.
2. I've never been on a Mariah so can't answer if the tank needs to come out.
3. To remove the tank, at least on a Saltare, remove the fill hose. Lift the opposite end of the tank until you can slide it away from the filler side of the hull above the topcap. Then the filler side will have room to clear the topcap, too. Reverse to reinstall.

[nboardskier]

Many of these have a rope seal / packing with a packing or gland nut. Others, have a mechanical seal with o-rings, oil seals (axle seals) and retaining rings . . . this is what was on my '86. You really won't know until you take things apart, what you have. Either way, it has to be fixed. If you have the non-packing type I can help. I've put parts kits together in the past.

[Monterosas]

Thank you both for your replies. Let me see if I can remove tank and then go from there. Maybe take some pictures and upload them.

[Monterosas]

18640

1. I reached underneath and took a picture of the rudder assembly - I have attached it (for some reason it shows up upside down) - looks to me like it is one with a packing nut.
2. I used a forklift and was able to release the tank from the 28 years of sitting on the foam. But I wasn't able to remove it. The tank is 16" wide and the opening is 15" wide. If anybody with a Mariah circa 1989 has done this before - I could use some guidance.

[nboardskier]

Did you take the back seat out? Should slide right out... maybe Marriah is different.

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[Salty87]

2. I used a forklift and was able to release the tank from the 28 years of sitting on the foam. But I wasn't able to remove it. The tank is 16" wide and the opening is 15" wide. If anybody with a Mariah circa 1989 has done this before - I could use some guidance.

Sounds like it's similar to the Saltare and won't come out level.

Gotta lift the end opposite the filler first. High enough to clear the topcap. Then pull it toward that side of the boat by a good 6". Rest it on the topcap/rail if you have one. Walk around to the filler side and it'll clear the hull now.

[Monterosas]

Did you take the back seat out? Should slide right out... maybe Marriah is different.

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Mariah has a solid fiberglass panel between the tank and the rear seats - that is part of the top cap

[Monterosas]

Sounds like it's similar to the Saltare and won't come out level.

Gotta lift the end opposite the filler first. High enough to clear the topcap. Then pull it toward that side of the boat by a good 6". Rest it on the topcap/rail if you have one. Walk around to the filler side and it'll clear the hull now.

I can't lift one end to clear the top cap - the tank is 1" wider than the opening - only thing I can think of is to rotate the tank since the height of it would give me the clearance to come out of the hole. But I can't see a way to rotate it inside the hole where it sits - there's just not enough space for it to make that 90 degree rotation.

[nboardskier]

What about cutting the panel? Does it serve a purpose?

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[Monterosas]

What about cutting the panel? Does it serve a purpose?

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Looks like that’s the best option/suggestion so far.

[nboardskier]

I found this from long ago .... just in case you, or someone else needs it!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180603/bf364ccfeb61861bf7245765d3e7dbe3.jpg

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[wildoats]

My son and I replaced the rudder packing on his 1989 Maria a few years ago without removing the fuel tank. There isn't much room, but you can reach in there and do it. Since there is little room and limited motion, I purchased a set of crowfoot wrenches that worked well.
The first thing to do is undo the steering arm connection. The next thing is the big packing nut. After you remove this the rudder will drop down and can be removed.
Ours was a conventional packing, just like the main prop shaft. Repack the nut, install the rudder, install the packing nut, and connect the steering nut. Hope this helps.

[Monterosas]

Delayed update and in need of further help. Please

I cut the fiberglass panel in from of the tank and behind the seats. I was able to remove the tank.
The boat has been at the upholstery shop for a few weeks and thus I haven’t been able to continue the rudder repair, but now I have it back.

It is definitely a rudder with the packing nut and not the ones with the o-rings and the grease fittings.

I have removed the cotter pin, but just can’t get the arm released from the rudder shaft. Based on what I’ve read online, I need to remove the pinch bolt. I’ve removed the nut and lock washer, but can’t wiggle the bolt loose.
Any suggestions?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180701/8b51e3d58430aae6b31cdbb2bb8af766.jpg

[NoWake]

I’ll take a few pics for you as I plan on replacing my packing today in my 91 comp. Basically the threaded stud that you have the nut removed in the picture has a wedge shape cut into. I sprayed PB blaster on it and nudged it loose with a hammer. Took a decent amount but not so much to bend it or injure threads. Like others say, support the rudder as it will fall out of the port. I was lucky enough that the trailer’s prop and rudder guard was removable with 3 nuts and bolts to get the last 3” of shaft out of port. Hopefully water test this week as boat needs to make the reunion at Nottely lake!

[NoWake]

1873718738
Okay, here are the pics I promised, hope this is what you were after. When you nudge the yoke bolt with a hammer it exposes the crescent shape of the through bolt so the shaft can fall out of the port. Comprehende?

[Monterosas]

NoWake. Thank you so much for posting that. I have gone so far as to jam two nuts together and try to turn that bolt using the nuts. That’s after I tapped the bolt with a hammer lightly and ruined the threads on it and had to rethread it. I was afraid to hit it hard.
I actually spoke to the folks at Skidim yesterday and after explaining what I had going on, the one I was speaking to pointed me to the image of the bolt on their site and explained how it works. I went to the boat this morning, but a nut on the end of the bolt to protect the threads, gave it a few taps with the hammer and it released.
I had put a bumper between the prop guard and the rudder and thus it didn’t fall down, I just removed the arm by pulling it up.

If I had seen your pictures and advice/explanation, I would have figured it out too. Timing is everything.

[NoWake]

Figured I was a little slow on the post. Anyone who can figure how to get that fuel tank out without several bloody knuckles isn’t going to let that bolt stand in the way! My project is not complete as I haven’t water tested yet but it did take some play out of it. I sprung for the GFO packing on skidim. What did you end up going with?

[Monterosas]

I purchased the 3/16 GFO packing too. But as luck would have it (I suppose it’s good luck in retrospect), I backed up the boat into the water (my project has been delayed because the upholsterer has had the boat for a month) just to make sure that the water was coming from the rudder and it wasn’t. It was coming from one of the exhausts.
So while the tank is out, I will be repacking the rudder as well as resealing both exhausts. Then water test, then put the tank back in, then repair the slot that I cut out of the fiberglass panel that divides the fuel tank from the rear seats. It’s going to be a long weekend.

Good luck with your water test

[NoWake]

Sounds like it will be a sweet ride when done. Luckily on this end not chasing a water leak, just wanted to correct the tight steering to the right when under power. I can imagine how nice the upholstery will be after mucking around in 30+ yr old transoms.

[cadunkle]

My '89 Saltare had the same style rudder. I was going to repack it but the port was very worn. Ended up going with a new Mastercraft rudder, port, and a new helm and cable as well. Very nice steering finally, and no leaks.

Also check your platform brackets for leaks. Mine were leaking and I had to reseal them with 4200.