wontonrunner
06-04-2020, 02:17 AM
Hey guys.
So I decided to start this thread to help those of you out with a leaking or failed raw water pump. Mine is the Indmar 68-5001 or the johnson f6b-9. It is the pump installed on my 2004 supra launch SSV.
The Bearing part numbers you need are SKF Bearing # 6203-2RSJ It is a double sealed ball bearing. you will need 2 of them These were $6 each
The seal part number you will need is Angus DPSM 16287. It is a double lip metric seal. This seal cost me $4
Or you can pay the big bucks and buy this kit https://www.amazon.ca/Rebuild-Repair-Johnson-F6B-9-Impeller/dp/B078WCPGSB
All the oem part numbers are listed for all components in the link.
I had a very hard time finding info on how to rebuild these pumps and more importantly the best way to remove the pump from the motor to work on it.
Let me tell you this. There is an alternative to removing the pump and you can not only save yourself 3 hours of hell and frustration (it is likely seized onto the crank pulley so its not easy and you will likely damage your pump or the pulley and be out over $600) but your can do it for under $20! Canadian....so that is like practically free in US$!
SO how do you know that you need to rebuild your pump
1. You hear a whining noise from the back of the motor at the pump. This is a bad bearing
2. You have water leaking out of the front of the pump or through the bearings.
3. If you have a leaky seal you likely have bad bearings too. So just do them all at once and save the time of a second tear down in the future.
4. If you really don't want to do bearings if you don't have too. You can check the bearings by removing the hoses and the support bar on the bottom and turn the
housing. It should be smooth not binding like mine was. Also you can wiggle the housing back and forth. There should not be excessive play. If you have any
doubt then just do the bearings. Its less than $20
The trick is simple.
DON'T REMOVE IT!
***You can rebuild it in the boat with simple tools. ***
And there is no where online that tells you this.
I am in the process of rebuilding my pump and if I had all the parts and tools in hand I could probably do so in under and hr.
It will take me a few days to post it all up but you really just need for the removal of the pump housing is
A Hammer
2 flat head scew drivers
Needle nose pliers
3 jaw puller but a 2 jaw would likely work too.
Heat gun or a propane torch
Some penetrating oil
Because this pump does not any use snap rings to hold anything together you can take it apart and rebuild it on the boat.
1. Once you have removed the hoses, the back cover plate needs to be removed and the impeller removed.
2. Spray. The impeller and housing on the inside with penetrating oil and also spray the exposed bearing through the side of the housing a day in advance.
3. Use 2 flat screw driver to pry out the impeller carefully. Once you have wiggled it out enough you can pull it the rest of the way with the needle nose pliers. There
are guides to do this all over the internet.
4. Remove the impeller and keep an eye out for the very Thin Brass washer that may be between the impeller and the seal in the housing. In most cases this was
installed incorrectly from the factory and you will find when you removed the seal because it was installed on the wrong side at the factory.
5. Remove the housing support bat either at the bottom of the housing or at the support bracket on the engine.
6. Make sure the excess penetrating oil is wiped up and you have evacuated the gas fumes in the hill and have a fire extinguisher handy.
7. Attach the jaw puller to the Pump housing as shown and tighten the centering pin on the stub shaft. Tighten it using a box wrench while holding onto the Jaws making sure they dong slip off the housing lip and apply some heat to the pump housing at the bearing location evenly when the bearings bind. the metal will expand and the bearing will slip right of the bearings. You might have to give the housing a smack with the Hammer once the heat and tension is on the puller.
Location for the jaws
19220
Photos of the shaft still in place and the housing removed
19221
To be continue
Here is a good advisory that I used as a reference to tear down and reassemble the pump. You can use it as a supplement to my directions above as they don't talk about using heat to make your teardown and re-assembly easier.
http://teamtalk.mastercraft.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=11994&d=1153857241
So I decided to start this thread to help those of you out with a leaking or failed raw water pump. Mine is the Indmar 68-5001 or the johnson f6b-9. It is the pump installed on my 2004 supra launch SSV.
The Bearing part numbers you need are SKF Bearing # 6203-2RSJ It is a double sealed ball bearing. you will need 2 of them These were $6 each
The seal part number you will need is Angus DPSM 16287. It is a double lip metric seal. This seal cost me $4
Or you can pay the big bucks and buy this kit https://www.amazon.ca/Rebuild-Repair-Johnson-F6B-9-Impeller/dp/B078WCPGSB
All the oem part numbers are listed for all components in the link.
I had a very hard time finding info on how to rebuild these pumps and more importantly the best way to remove the pump from the motor to work on it.
Let me tell you this. There is an alternative to removing the pump and you can not only save yourself 3 hours of hell and frustration (it is likely seized onto the crank pulley so its not easy and you will likely damage your pump or the pulley and be out over $600) but your can do it for under $20! Canadian....so that is like practically free in US$!
SO how do you know that you need to rebuild your pump
1. You hear a whining noise from the back of the motor at the pump. This is a bad bearing
2. You have water leaking out of the front of the pump or through the bearings.
3. If you have a leaky seal you likely have bad bearings too. So just do them all at once and save the time of a second tear down in the future.
4. If you really don't want to do bearings if you don't have too. You can check the bearings by removing the hoses and the support bar on the bottom and turn the
housing. It should be smooth not binding like mine was. Also you can wiggle the housing back and forth. There should not be excessive play. If you have any
doubt then just do the bearings. Its less than $20
The trick is simple.
DON'T REMOVE IT!
***You can rebuild it in the boat with simple tools. ***
And there is no where online that tells you this.
I am in the process of rebuilding my pump and if I had all the parts and tools in hand I could probably do so in under and hr.
It will take me a few days to post it all up but you really just need for the removal of the pump housing is
A Hammer
2 flat head scew drivers
Needle nose pliers
3 jaw puller but a 2 jaw would likely work too.
Heat gun or a propane torch
Some penetrating oil
Because this pump does not any use snap rings to hold anything together you can take it apart and rebuild it on the boat.
1. Once you have removed the hoses, the back cover plate needs to be removed and the impeller removed.
2. Spray. The impeller and housing on the inside with penetrating oil and also spray the exposed bearing through the side of the housing a day in advance.
3. Use 2 flat screw driver to pry out the impeller carefully. Once you have wiggled it out enough you can pull it the rest of the way with the needle nose pliers. There
are guides to do this all over the internet.
4. Remove the impeller and keep an eye out for the very Thin Brass washer that may be between the impeller and the seal in the housing. In most cases this was
installed incorrectly from the factory and you will find when you removed the seal because it was installed on the wrong side at the factory.
5. Remove the housing support bat either at the bottom of the housing or at the support bracket on the engine.
6. Make sure the excess penetrating oil is wiped up and you have evacuated the gas fumes in the hill and have a fire extinguisher handy.
7. Attach the jaw puller to the Pump housing as shown and tighten the centering pin on the stub shaft. Tighten it using a box wrench while holding onto the Jaws making sure they dong slip off the housing lip and apply some heat to the pump housing at the bearing location evenly when the bearings bind. the metal will expand and the bearing will slip right of the bearings. You might have to give the housing a smack with the Hammer once the heat and tension is on the puller.
Location for the jaws
19220
Photos of the shaft still in place and the housing removed
19221
To be continue
Here is a good advisory that I used as a reference to tear down and reassemble the pump. You can use it as a supplement to my directions above as they don't talk about using heat to make your teardown and re-assembly easier.
http://teamtalk.mastercraft.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=11994&d=1153857241