Brian_289
07-20-2020, 09:45 PM
I finally put my Supra in the water today after rebuilding the heads due to rotted valves and seats from rotted manifolds.
I had to pull the distributor to removed the heads and I could not get the cap off. Bolts were rusted pretty badly. I pulled it straight up and out, didn’t touch it again until I put it back in. I thought I won on that gamble. It ran great on the hose! So I took it to the lake and it ran terribly. I idled it about a half mile from the launch to my slip I rent. It got hot like 180 plus when I was trying to give it throttle to rev up, but it just wouldn’t go. It started to backfire a little so I just let it idle.
I went back once it cooled down with a helper and we removed the distributor, brought it home and got the bolts out that hold the cap on. Back to the lake we went and tried to install it and get the crank pointer on the TDC mark and have the rotor fall in line with the number 8 on the distributor when it was fully seated. Got that done and went to start it and it did not want to fire. So we assumed we made a mistake and had it 180 degrees out, turned the crank one revolution (I hope?) and re set the distributor. Still nothing. Does anyone have any pointers for doing this? It seems like a simple task, but I only had old school carb boats before this. I understand the vortec distributor is a different animal all together . I was told by the engine guy that rebuilt my heads they will run with no load on them even if they are one or two teeth out of sync. I just got this boat last Saturday and spent a week going over things. It has 1956 hours on it and will be getting a full rebuild this winter, engine, trans and v drive as well as a full interior (I got it cheap with intentions of restoring it over the winter)
Any help would be great. Also once it is running is there any way to verify timing with a timing light or do these require a computer?
Thanks!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200721/d25be5ad2c8ed7e58c32fbd52c2f84da.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I had to pull the distributor to removed the heads and I could not get the cap off. Bolts were rusted pretty badly. I pulled it straight up and out, didn’t touch it again until I put it back in. I thought I won on that gamble. It ran great on the hose! So I took it to the lake and it ran terribly. I idled it about a half mile from the launch to my slip I rent. It got hot like 180 plus when I was trying to give it throttle to rev up, but it just wouldn’t go. It started to backfire a little so I just let it idle.
I went back once it cooled down with a helper and we removed the distributor, brought it home and got the bolts out that hold the cap on. Back to the lake we went and tried to install it and get the crank pointer on the TDC mark and have the rotor fall in line with the number 8 on the distributor when it was fully seated. Got that done and went to start it and it did not want to fire. So we assumed we made a mistake and had it 180 degrees out, turned the crank one revolution (I hope?) and re set the distributor. Still nothing. Does anyone have any pointers for doing this? It seems like a simple task, but I only had old school carb boats before this. I understand the vortec distributor is a different animal all together . I was told by the engine guy that rebuilt my heads they will run with no load on them even if they are one or two teeth out of sync. I just got this boat last Saturday and spent a week going over things. It has 1956 hours on it and will be getting a full rebuild this winter, engine, trans and v drive as well as a full interior (I got it cheap with intentions of restoring it over the winter)
Any help would be great. Also once it is running is there any way to verify timing with a timing light or do these require a computer?
Thanks!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200721/d25be5ad2c8ed7e58c32fbd52c2f84da.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk