81 Sport Restoration

[h2o-ski]

Hello All,

I picked up an '81 Sport this past March. My son and I are just now in the process of rebuilding this rare old boat. 30 years of rot has left fiberglass shells of what once was the stringers. We already pulled the cap and started demo. Removing the mountain of foam in the bow so far has been the biggest pain.

A couple of questions
1. what was the thickness of the plywood used in the transom? Due to the rot I get varying measurements of 1/2" to 3/4"
2. The ski pylon over time has rust welded itself together. I guessing I would need to cut it out and then replace. Has anyone found an aftermarket ski plyon replacement?

Thanks

[Mischief IV]

Welcome to the club and forum. An ‘81? That is rare...congrats!
Would you mind sending me a private message with your HIN? I would love to take a look at it.

The floor will be 1/2”. If you go 3/4”, top cap may not fit properly upon re-installation. Use marine plywood covering it with CPES epoxy.

The earlier models used aluminum ski pylons with steel frame underneath floor held in by two or three bolts. I would imagine with a little heat, you could separate the two, but I don’t know, maybe your ‘81 is different than my ‘83. Mine came apart with ease.
Occasionally you’ll see pylons pop up for sale on here as more and more boats get parted out.

I’m actually taking my ‘83 Rider to the shop tomorrow to have composite stringers put in. I had a stringer job done 11 years ago and that lasted just 5 years before they rotted again because they were done improperly. (Thanks Donny Bennett!) So, take the time and do them right. Lot of good threads and people on here to help along the way and if done right, will last another lifetime.
I’m just tired of wood so chose different route.

Also, if you use Tapatalk app or a 3rd party host site like Imgur, pics will be much larger and easier to view on here which makes for a better thread.
Look forward to seeing your progress. Good luck!

[michael hunter]

I have a compleat pylon and mounting base out of a 85 comp . I think it was the same as yours.

[h2o-ski]

I guess in 81 they were still figuring out the methods of construction as the flooring in mine is 3/4.

My plan is to use polyester resin due to cost. I did find HDPE structural lumber, but that would require even more expensive epoxy. I have not thrown out laminating 3/4" Coosa as a single 4x8 sheet should make one of the main stringers. So I would be looking at 3 4x8x3/4 sheets (stringers) and 1 4x8x1/2 (transom).

Michael, I may hit you up if I can't get the original pylon out per Mischief's suggestion.

[Mischief IV]

I guess in 81 they were still figuring out the methods of construction as the flooring in mine is 3/4.

My plan is to use polyester resin due to cost. I did find HDPE structural lumber, but that would require even more expensive epoxy. I have not thrown out laminating 3/4" Coosa as a single 4x8 sheet should make one of the main stringers. So I would be looking at 3 4x8x3/4 sheets (stringers) and 1 4x8x1/2 (transom).

Yes, with your boat being built in September of 1981, probably still figuring out the molds at that point. Keep in mind, George Fowler, the founder of Supra, built Mastercrafts first and then started Ski Supreme(?) before venturing into Supra so he wasn't a stranger to fiberglass. However, I can imagine this boat being built in a small garage in TN with help from his friends and family as he worked to get the new business underway.

I would use 3/4" by all means. Mine had 1/2" which was just strong enough but you don't have wide spans where people step so it wasn't a big issue. Not sure what Coosa size the shop is using on mine. Prefer 3/4" if not 5/8" at least.
First thing shop noticed today when I dropped off mine was, "Where does it drain into the bilge from the outside areas? He was unimpressed with the work Donny Bennett did. The floor wasn't even level. Several things he said were just poorly done and agreed I was taken advantage of. More on that later with a thread I will do showing full restoration.

Couple of questions for you:
1. What motor does this have in it?
2a. Where are you located if you don't mind me asking?
2b. If different from your town, where did this boat spend it's life before?
3. Do you have any history of the boat from the previous owner such as paperwork, manufacturer statement of origin, registrations?
4. Trailer is age appropriate, are you up to date on your tetanus shots?

It does have the window rails similar to mine which is a bit surprising.

I went ahead and downloaded your pic to my computer so I could see larger. Also, here are a couple pics from today I took showing my 1983 Supra Rider and forum member RLove30188's 1982 Supra Star side by side at the same shop. Fun fact, both our boats were sold by the same dealer in Marietta, GA and built one year apart. His was built in July of 1982 and mine July of 1983. Also, both had new striping put on in 2002 at same time. Hope to duplicate this side by side photo on lake in the near future. Would be really cool if we could line these three up for a reunion celebrating Supra's 40th anniversary next year.

https://i.imgur.com/zc76IeC.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/AsdARBL.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ad2J3fS.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/1qwFQ2S.jpg

[h2o-ski]

Couple of questions for you:
1. What motor does this have in it?
2a. Where are you located if you don't mind me asking?
2b. If different from your town, where did this boat spend it's life before?
3. Do you have any history of the boat from the previous owner such as paperwork, manufacturer statement of origin, registrations?
4. Trailer is age appropriate, are you up to date on your tetanus shots?


1. It came with a SBC 350. The original motor spun a bearing and a different rebuilt 350 was put is it's place.
2. I'm in the Texas hill country. Although if I remember the story right it was purchased used by my uncle in the early 90's from the 1st owner in TN. My uncle used it in lakes around Texas. He then moved to Atlanta area before putting in a barn after the steering bracket pulled out of the port stringer in the mid 90's
3. Much of the paperwork had been lost. I'll be trying to see if I can get a replacement title when it was registered 30 years ago in Texas.
4. Not sure why but when my uncle repainted the trailer he painted it rust brown. There is still remenants of the factory pin stripping.

My hope is to get my Sport looking as good as yours. I hopefully uploaded a better photo that what was on my computer.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201016/d28a09c93ce44d1a31ebc487f3696424.jpg

[h2o-ski]

Being work from home had it's advantages, I get to work on it during lunch breaks. I have pulled out 8 trash bags so far and probably have another 4 left. The foam was almost up to the rub rail.

My plan is to extend the floor into the closed bow for additional storage since there really was not much storage to begin with. As I have pulled foam out the bow had gotten a little flimsy so I'm thinking of glassing in some 1"x2" boards diagonally towards the front for additional strength.

Once the foam is out, I'm going to measure the locations of all the key components to make reassembly easier.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201022/863385b446ca550b52f279ba4cce7378.jpg

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[92Supra]

Another moisture / rot question ? I read about all these Supra owners who have replaced the floor and stringers resulting in quite a drop in hull weight, back to their original weight and they mention of how much water and weight the foam floatation had soaked up over the years.
My question is, even though I have a 92 comp ts6m with the composite floor and stringers, isn't the floatation material the same, and wouldn't a 92 be just as likely to have added weight due to wet floatation. I get that at least the stringers wouldn't need replaced making the repair much easier, but what are some thought on this? Maybe the construction process was different?
Being as I bought this used, and I have no manuals for the boat itself, does anyone have the dry weight of a 92 comp Ts6m, 351, ? I just winterized, then drained the block and hoses, took the fuel tank out and changed the rudder packing so the tank was empty when I reinstalled, so I'm going to weigh it soon. This would be as close to a "new dry weight" as I will get ( ya I will weigh the trailer empty later).
Any thoughts or info would be greatly appreciated.

[michael hunter]

92 Supra Comp TS6M had a dry weight of 2460 lbs.

[92Supra]

I just crossed the scales today and I was 3180 lbs so I feel pretty good about that. I have an original single axle trailer and it will be spring before I get the boat off the trailer to weigh it alone.
I was not able to drop wheel and crank the tongue off the truck which would add a little more weight to the scale reading, due to the weigh cop pulling in to the scales.

[h2o-ski]

I have pulled out all the foam under the bow. A flush cut pull saw and a long pry bar allowed me to pull large chunks of foam out. I have also removed what was left of carpet and odds and ends. Once I got everything out, I noticed that the deck slants to the middle of the boat. Is there a reason for that or do I continue my plan of making the deck level?

[Mischief IV]

Read over this thread:

https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?21108-87-supra-sunsport-overhaul&highlight=Sunsport+overhaul

Page two has some pics I posted showing underneath the floor on my Rider.
The floor itself is flat as a pancake, not slanted; however underneath the floor starting at bow, it slants significantly so all the water drains in bilge area.
Is that what you are asking about?
Right below front of motor is the lowest spot in bilge. Bilge pump should go there.
Have more pics if you want me to post some up if you need additional help.

[h2o-ski]

I ran some string from side to side to help with measurements. The starboard side is over an inch and a half lower than the side closest to the hull. The port side is only 3/4".

Speaking of bilge pump, I'm going to have to relocate mine from between the ski plyon and the engine. There is a really low spot in front that is 3" below the area where the plyon is fiberglassed to the hull.

I also got the engine mounts out. Kinda hard to take the lag screws out when there is nothing for the threads to grab onto. Though there might be some life left in them [emoji6]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201102/a40570ab11f54a676a6211d0cf08d410.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201102/c71f467ea2e4257780ce9fddcc2b4b8a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201102/02e22351a634dc501ac693a42414c2f9.jpg

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[h2o-ski]

Status update
1. 100% of the foam is out
2. Transom has been cut out
3. Center stringers have been traced
4. Floor removed
5. Cutlass bearings removed
6. Stringers are gone!!!

As a note an oscillating multitool and a good bimetal is worth twice it's weight in gold. The key is to make 2 cuts, the first is to remove the most material by cutting 1/4" above the hull. The second is to cut the fiberglass flush with the hull.
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[h2o-ski]

By chance does anyone know how the shaft log attaches to the hull? We had a rain come through and filled the front part of the hull. When I jacked the trailer up, water was leaking through the hull opening. For my own sanity I checked and the inside of the log was completely dry.

[h2o-ski]

I just added the shaft log to the long list of things to rebuild. A pry bar and maybe 5lb of pressure and the shaft log popped off. Now I get the pleasure of grinding the inside hull flat and glassing it back in properly. In all fairness the log looks to have been repaired before as the fiberglass was a completely different weave than factory.

[h2o-ski]

I just picked up the fiberglass and resin for the boat. In the near future I should be making some serious headway. However while waiting to order the fiberglass, I got most of the boat rewired, engine torn down, and lots of other small tasks done.
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[ClayCollins]

I'm sure this is way too late to be of any help, but just in case, I had the same issue with my ski pole and frame in my 1985 Rider. The aluminum welded itself to the steel frame. There was quite a bit of corrosion on the aluminum near the base as well, which made me uncomfortable trying to reuse it. Instead, I bought a Mastercraft 48" stainless steel ski pole from Great Lakes Skipper and had a fabrication shop make an exact duplicate of the old steel frame. Then I had it powder coated. Here's a picture of the old and new before powder coating. The fab shop charged $650 and powder coating was $85.
19669

[h2o-ski]

Thanks for the idea. You are not too late as life has gotten in the way.

I have my concerns too but I chained mine to a tree and used a long heavy duty ratchet strap to put a very strong load on the pylon. There was no signs of deformation or give me any reason think the pylon was about to break.

I now have the transom in and nearly ready to go. I have the main stringers partially tabbed in.

Although I have had a major set back. We had a major rain storm come through. The tarp could not shed the water quick enough and instead filled with water. The weight of ~100 gallons of water was more than the cap could handle and ripped/cracked in half. It was a major blow but I have a plan forward to repair the cap.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210812/4c3c99ad5c6f3a4c4b9bccf8d19d1bbe.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210812/033f97eb7b657a0a6e7a0b87fb4e1dfe.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210812/7e00d4618f38c6dafab13c9ad08d7a4f.jpg

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[daniel.j.grossheim]

Looking good, do you have any more photos of how the swim platform attaches? My lower bolt in the swim platform is starting to pull out a bit and I’m hoping I can repair before a full stringer rebuild is needed.


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[h2o-ski]

Looking good, do you have any more photos of how the swim platform attaches? My lower bolt in the swim platform is starting to pull out a bit and I’m hoping I can repair before a full stringer rebuild is needed.


No, I don't have a good photo, though it is not hard to describe. My swim deck has 2 brackets and each was through bolted to the transom with Stainless Steel 3-prong Nuts. This is a very poor design as it let water soak directly into the transom wood and I ended up cutting the bolts because the prong nuts had nothing to hold onto once the transom wood rotted away.

However with my boat being the first model of the first year of production, there were many things that were changed over the subsequent years. Hopefully they switched to a better design for your boat.

[daniel.j.grossheim]

Thanks for following up and sorry to derail your thread a bit. Mine has 3 brackets and a two bolts through each bracket. The lower bolt on one is loose, you can see the bracket puking away from the fiberglass when you lift up on it slightly. I’m trying to see if I have to remove backseat/gas tank to repair or can I attempt to repair only get to it from the water side. Definitely will be a winter project, just trying to get a few more uses out of it this season without allowing more water in. I will be testing the stringers behind the seat next weekend when I’m back home to test them for rot.


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[h2o-ski]

Thanks for following up and sorry to derail your thread a bit.

No worries, you reminded me to update this thread for those that maybe interested.

Transom is in fully. I just have to cut out the exhaust holes and it will be complete. Please note that the tabbing on the transom was my horrible first attempt at fiberglassing and since has been corrected.

The main stringers are in and tabbed and cut close to proper height. By chance does anyone know of a good way to verify how far down the cap walls will go down? I am fairly certain I have measured the floor height correctly, but would like another way to validate.

The side stringers are glued in and ready to be tabbed in this weekend.

[h2o-ski]

Happy birthday to "The Money Pit"! Turning 40 sometime this month if not already.

Too bad it is still under rebuild to take a lap around the lake.

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[Salty87]

...By chance does anyone know of a good way to verify how far down the cap walls will go down? I am fairly certain I have measured the floor height correctly, but would like another way to validate.

If your cap is anything like the later 80s models the inner walls can be trimmed as needed. Whatever they are adding structurally isn't dependent on the height provided you don't cut them so short they don't reach down all the way to the new floor. I remember trimming mine a bit but don't recall how it all happened. The cap must not have fit quite right so out came the grinder. Can't remember if the cap was re-lifted or not. I think I just covered the carpet well and ground it on the spot.

It's great to see people still rebuilding these boats!...and outside too. You go!

[h2o-ski]

Thank you for feedback and the confidence boost. Fiberglassing in the Texas heat really does wear down on ya. I went and confirmed that there is about 1/4" lip that allows for even more leeway. Worse case is I get after the floor with a grinder.

I was on the fence about rebuilding the boat when I picked it up, however finding out it was a first model year boat convinced me that the boat needed to live longer.

[h2o-ski]

Time for an update. This past weekend I rebuilt the gantry cranes and got the repaired cap (she is not going to win any beauty pageants) back up in the air. Boy were my measurements wrong in the transom area. I was off by at least 1/2" :eek:. I made some marks where the side walls met the side stringers. I went out and bought a laser level so that I could get a straight line.

A side note, I did get the floor of the new battery compartment tabbed in. As long as the stringers don't get cut down too much the battery will fit nicely up front.

[h2o-ski]

Progress report
Built bulkheads to help prevent water intrusion and support the floor. I have 3/4" flooring planned.
I placed the cap on one more time and everything looks to be close. So far the cap split repair is holding up, though I need to fix a few minor areas.
You can also see the planned battery compartment up front.

Just need to order exhaust hose so I can then get the decking in.

As of today I have over 250 hours logged and that doesn't count the countless hours planning, searching for parts or prepping for the next step.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220223/f1ae6d49e277f764d71c1fc275ff5784.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220223/cab620463b444ffcc851fdd8587d7ce5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220223/04681da051930ef030f48bece647edf4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220223/e16b3b6c64d7a115c283310bfd3875f6.jpg

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[Mischief IV]

Nice quality restoration for THE MONEY PIT. I love it. Sounds about right for any boat, at least mine for sure. You did a bang up job getting that hull cleaned and sanded.

No issues with 3/4" floor and top cap meeting? You allow for that in the stringers? Was that the original size for flooring? I was under the impression of 1/2" ply was standard for most of these classics.

Do I spot the original fiberglass exhaust tubes? My Rider had those and they sounded great with the SupraTraps. Now I have stainless and not quite the same sound as I had originally before the 2009 stringer job.

You doing any foam? Most guys opt for no foam nowadays, but I prefer it. I see the scupper holes.

Good luck and glad you got your top cap repaired somewhat. I cried when I saw that. I will be crying over mine for sometime...thanks to the incoming invoices.

[h2o-ski]

The floor that I pulled out was 3/4" marine ply. My uncle replaced the floors after he got it because they rotted out back then. The cap has been back on the hull 3 times to make sure there is room for them. The original stringers were not level and the main stringers were lower than the sides.

Yes those are the original silencers, good eye. Though I'm still on the lookout for new exhaust tips. I through out the original fiberglass tubes that went through the transom.

Don't tell the Coast Guard, but no I am not going to use foam. I know that it helps with noise but trying to keep the cost down. My idea is that if it can be exposed to water, it drains to the bilge. You can get the idea with the areas that are gelcoated. I'm waiting for the floors to go in so I can gelcoat the entire boat at once. The corners of the transom are not gelcoated because I am going to have stainless steel plates with bolts welded to the plates. Then I will fiberglass the plates in place to make them permanent.

[h2o-ski]

Here are some pictures of the cap repair. There was far more repair work on where the cap and the storage locker meet but due to how I have the cap supported I can't get a good picture of it.

Putting a straight edge on the ground areas on top shows that I can most likely get another larger layer of 1708.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220301/39c83607e139b9fed2a82441f4261872.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220301/493a951e7ef8d89cd2f8416e6486c022.jpg

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[h2o-ski]

Well onto set back #164 (exaggerating but not by much). I noticed that the base for the pylon was still flaking off after I got it to bare metal before I painted it. After further inspection, I'm afraid the walls of the steel tube are going to be too thin.

Additionally the aluminum plyon itself was bulging more than when I painted the base. I was able to push a screwdriver into the bulge and remove aluminum. Looks like the galvanic corrosion introduced iron into the lattice structure of the sinning l aluminum.

Lucky I have a family member who is a professional welder and other friends who have a lathe. I'm going to try to make my own plyon and base.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220303/c41f40a78a97da90ffe0ea5f21bcdbcb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220303/898c5805081fd785b1ecbee59c6237bd.jpg

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[Mischief IV]

Well onto set back #164 (exaggerating but not by much). I noticed that the base for the pylon was still flaking off after I got it to bare metal before I painted it. After further inspection, I'm afraid the walls of the steel tube are going to be too thin.

Additionally the aluminum plyon itself was bulging more than when I painted the base. I was able to push a screwdriver into the bulge and remove aluminum. Looks like the galvanic corrosion introduced iron into the lattice structure of the sinning l aluminum.

Lucky I have a family member who is a professional welder and other friends who have a lathe. I'm going to try to make my own plyon and base.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220303/c41f40a78a97da90ffe0ea5f21bcdbcb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220303/898c5805081fd785b1ecbee59c6237bd.jpg

Sent you PM. You have options.

[h2o-ski]

Progress has been slow but still making it. I got the exhaust hose in and setup.

A family event put me in the general area of the legendary Mischief. So it was decided we should perform a structural test on a corroded plyon. After 2 dead batteries and some hand sawing, we separated the 2 parts. I'm happy to report that even with corrosion on the plyon it is structurally sound. I wish I could have stayed longer but we had to high tail it back to Texas.

There are some slight differences between the assembly of my '81 and the '83 beast but nothing a hammer and an angle grinder couldn't fix. I also took the angle grinder to the original assembly to see what lies beneath. I've read that ammonia will dissolve rust so I'm going to try that to see if I can get the pylon free.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220415/df594a8f7a2e22c2f6eb22cbff443c87.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220415/c86f325960a1637fbe23f6729565e942.jpg

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[Mischief IV]

Pleasure to have met h2o-ski and family. Sorry it took so long to get pylon cut. Disappointed in my Rigid batteries but that was some thick aluminum. Didn't have much hope the the hand saws would work either but gave us a good work out.

Heading back up to lake house in a few days so I will look at the other parts boats and see if we can make this easier for you. This is too much work for a pylon and bracket. Gotta have something that is plug and play cause your kids want the boat back together sooner than later.

[h2o-ski]

Progress is picking up. I cut up my old pylon assembly to free the original pylon and also to use the sides for backers for the new assembly. I also picked up most of the plywood flooring and started measuring the flooring.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220420/e160fcc6007033289098c804e7d6edc6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220420/5571767260527e535949537f514e2afe.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220420/6556cf4aa529c58a7d12adf5b9c0130e.jpg

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[h2o-ski]

Status update: 3/4" BCX plywood hurt the pocketbook at $70 a sheet, but progress must continue. 90% of the flooring has been cut to size. I just have the area under the helmet to cut.

I took 800 grit sandpaper and made the pylon start to shine. I cut the bottom of the pylon assembly and will trying to use a press to remove the bad pylon.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220510/afa38c36667cd1a79b2ac0ee85990285.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220510/c6d8fd24874767f2a611d7e7e700d0bc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220510/76bd89d929e51c4b4c61885cad22bce1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220510/c411b083f1f29c79003386a005ae9217.jpg

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[h2o-ski]

I put the cap on one last time to make sure everything is at the correct height. For the most part it is dead on. There in only one area where I need to shim the floor up 1/8".

I was able to beat the corroded pylon out. Funny thing is that the part in the assembly had very little corrosion but the part above it was really bad. Once I cleaned the inside of the tube, my original pylon slipped in perfectly.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220518/4b5e20ae87704258ef91a01aee5cd1d8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220518/c7d7fc57c66ba8d2f469ba54007d2202.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220518/79d3fef8d7402447ed84e8dc5029cf7e.jpg

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[h2o-ski]

With the kids of on summer break, I've been able to put some serious work done.

The deck has had the corners rounded over and a coat of resin on all sides. I also got the battery access cut. Not my best work but a layer of gelcoat and seadek and it will blend in. Then I got the deck glued down to the stringers. Now to fill the gaps and put some CSM down.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220614/3ae9ec98f8b709d161e480290f67faef.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220614/47602a6949286820c4ab4c6f2df936e5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220614/bd6e117c7ff90a352b7368811035b6b5.jpg

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[h2o-ski]

Work continues. Got the flooring faired and just have to sand a few spots smooth. I got the bilge and pylon holes cut. With all this recent progress I feel like I am actually working on a boat and not a fiberglass bath tub.

As I plan my next steps and purchases, there are 4 vents in the stern. I know 1 goes to the blower but where do the other 3 go? Rodents removed them before I picked the boat up.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220701/1230309c43b2c615cb012fe0fcec4a7c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220701/d45ed2cd5f6425a2b5d407059fa595d6.jpg

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[h2o-ski]

Despite record heat here in Texas work continued. Deck is done and cap is placed on the hull. I'm glad I test fit the cap as it looks like I knew what I was doing. eBay Seadek went on sale and I bought 4 sheets.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220804/4dd1a7e86bb0c277e730561773f5aa1a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220804/d2e0490026c93c5566e8a6276e48c67a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220804/112f1d922a26655c866d6a1a20be3f27.jpg

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[h2o-ski]

Seems like I take 3 steps forward and 2 steps back.
Went to secure the cap to the hull and either the cap shrunk or the hull grew in the bow. I ripped out the floor and stringers in the bow to give the hull some flexibility and get closer to the cap. I also realized the captain seat location was too far back and inboard. So I get to rip that out and relocate it but I knew I was taking chances by putting it in before I placed the cap.

Though as Mischief said it is only fiberglass and resin. It can be fixed.

[pktim23]

I have an 86 Sunsport, that needs to be restored.

Composite vs Wood stringers at the current price of wood ?
How many linear feet and type of wood did you use ?

Trying to decide if the cost is worth all the hassle ?
In my mind always, but the warden always has the final word! lol

I had the upholstery done in 2014

[h2o-ski]

I have an 86 Sunsport, that needs to be restored.

Composite vs Wood stringers at the current price of wood ?
How many linear feet and type of wood did you use ?

Trying to decide if the cost is worth all the hassle ?
In my mind always, but the warden always has the final word! lol

I had the upholstery done in 2014

Here is the way I broke it down:
Wood vs composites
- Do you want the boat to last more than your lifetime guaranteed?
Yes - composite
No - Wood, though when done properly wood can last a lifetime or more. Cobalt used wood until the mid 90's and you don't hear much about stringer jobs on those
- Budget
None - Composite: a rough estimate for my boat was around $2000 for the material itself
Yes - Wood: bought mine when wood was on the way up. Total cost $332.78

With that out of the way, Mischief IV went composite and there were some structural changes that had to be made on the rebuild because Coosa does not have the strength of wood in the stringers. He has pics and other details in his thread. I went with wood and made structural changes to reduce the amount of wood exposure to outside areas, ie using bulkheads. Additionally any hole drilled into wood is drilled slightly oversized and filled with structural resin and then redrilled to the correct size.

Here is the breakdown of the wood I have purchased
3/4" 4x8 (1) - transom - pressure treated and age dried
2x10x16 (2) - main stringers - I bought oversized since my floor was not level may be able to get away with 2x8x14
1x6x12 (2) - side stringers
3/4" 4'x8' (3) - deck

If all you have to do is the stringers and deck, with some smart buying you could use wood and polyester resin for around $2500.

As a side note on composite, I looked into fiberglass reinforced HDPE boards (slightly more than wood but just as strong, although my catch was that the epoxy required to bond to HDPE was almost $2000

[h2o-ski]

To commemorate the 41st anniversary of my boat, we took it for a float test at the neighborhood boat ramp. All I need to do is tighten the shaft packing just a little more.

As a note the factory trailer is garbage when it comes to loading. I had to back the boat in twice and then guide it out of the water to get it back on the trailer correctly. I’m already drawing up plans to make the trailer guide the boat on. Guess I got spoiled by my Magnum trailer I had previously.

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[Mischief IV]

Good job! Looks like helluva steep ramp. Hope the kids are still patient with the build time. Nice to see it back on the water. This gives me inspiration.

[h2o-ski]

The ramp is definitely the steepest one on the lake minus the sailboat specific ramp. The kids understand that it takes time fortunately and fall sports keep their mind off of it. Post like ours of the restores should keep us going.

I have not taken many pictures lately but the 350 Chevy is in the process of being reassembled. Hoping to get it test fired in the next 2 weeks and then installed.

[h2o-ski]

Well I haven’t got it test fired. But I have got the engine assembled and dressed. Due to the backyard rebuild, I threw whatever oil I had laying around and hooked up the distributor to a corded drill. This way I could prime the engine and help flush all the contaminants out. I have run the oil pump almost 2 hours.

I wired the starter to my mower battery and got the engine spinning. Engine turns over nice and even!! Big sigh of relief.

Though while PCM was nice enough to label the wires. They did not necessarily say were those labeled wires go. Does anyone have pictures or a wiring schematic of an ‘80s PCM 350?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221028/61d80c09389036aacf7aaa3a41fb13f7.jpg

[MySupra]

h20-ski:

The attached is the wiring diagram from 1990, in case it can be useful. (It is the Supra diagram, not the PCM diagram, and it might be too new for you.)

MySupra

[h2o-ski]

h20-ski:

The attached is the wiring diagram from 1990, in case it can be useful. (It is the Supra diagram, not the PCM diagram, and it might be too new for you.)

MySupra

Hey MySupra,

Looks like the forum downsized the image and is too blurry to read. Going to PM you my email to see if email is any better.

[MySupra]

Hey MySupra,

Looks like the forum downsized the image and is too blurry to read. Going to PM you my email to see if email is any better.


h20-ski:

I sent the 1990 Manual and undated PCM service manual to your email address.

MySupra

[h2o-ski]

h20-ski:

I sent the 1990 Manual and undated PCM service manual to your email address.

MySupra

Email has been received. Much appreciated. I have since found a few service manuals and such but not a lot of good schematics

[h2o-ski]

Update time

Thanks to the wiring diagrams and a little luck. I got the SBC running. Considering the amount of rust in two cylinders it runs pretty good, though one cylinder is down on compression. A local repair shop does have a reman in stock that he is willing to give me a good deal on in case this one doesn't hold.

I got the engine in the boat but I am struggling getting the engine aligned with the prop shaft. Doesn't help that the rubber bushings are a little tight.

Also does anyone have a source for where I can find a replacement rub rail insert? All I seem to find is from Taco and their inserts are different shapes than what I have.

[h2o-ski]

I had another go at the alignment. Not sure what I was thinking before but I had everything reversed. The trans mounts were topped out and the engine mounts were bottomed out.

Now that I got the mounts fixed, I just have to get the crankshaft axis and prop shaft inline.

[h2o-ski]

Engine is aligned [emoji2]. I got a few goodies for Christmas, namely fuel pump, relays and some other bits and pieces. I have been working on wiring. The old wiring had strange routing and some of my modifications obsoleted other parts.

I got most of the front floor and stringers repaired. Just waiting for some warmer weather to finish putting the repairs to bed.

The struggles right now are how can I route the trans cooler. The lines are not that long and my plan is to have the cooler post sea strainer. I may end up buying longer lines to run to the cooler towards the front of the engine. I also broke my throttle cable trying to get the rusted end off. Hopefully there is still enough thread at the end to work.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230116/55ebd99dba1d552c51f3922a2066daa1.jpg
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[Mischief IV]

Coming along nicely...looking good. Engine back in is a big step. If they're 40 year old hoses, may want to replace anyways. My 2 cents.

[h2o-ski]

Coming along nicely...looking good. Engine back in is a big step. If they're 40 year old hoses, may want to replace anyways. My 2 cents.

Indeed, I found some 42" hoses on SkiDIM that would work perfectly to get the cooler in front of the engine and below the trans oil sump. According to the Borg-Warner service manual the cooler is supposed to be at sump level to prevent drain back.

[h2o-ski]

Here we are 3 months later and the saying is true the last 10% takes 90% of the time. It also did not help that the weather was not very conducive to working. I got the bow floor repaired and looking good as the 1st time. Engine is wired and cooling hoses plumbed. I'm not happy about the number of fittings it took to get the hoses to where they need to be, but it will work.

I did have to make some more modifications to the stringers and floor :rolleyes: The stringers were too tall to slide the gas tank into place; so I had to cut them down and reglass the exposed wood. Also the exhaust hose could not make a tight enough bend to get to the riser so I had to grind down the floor.

I also found a place that will custom make some hydraulic hoses much cheaper than skidim's available stock. With the trans cooler relocated to the front of the engine, I need 49" lines to make the run.

Hopefully in the next month phase 1 of the rebuild will be complete and I get to enjoy the summer with the boat on the water.

[h2o-ski]

After 30 year out of the water, the boat finally left the trailer. She is not the bell of the ball yet, but at least she is on the water. It was a good shake down outing and helped identify some minor issues. I need to learn how to tune a carb, stumbles and surges when it gets into the secondaries and also definitely running rich. Also need to check over the cooling system, just some tweaks to stop some leaks and improve flow.

[Mischief IV]

Congrats! That's dedication. Hope you and your family get to use it quite a bit this summer once all the bugs are worked out.

[h2o-ski]

Well 2nd shakedown run ended on the boat ramp. Starter went out, so Amazon to the rescue; new marine starter came in 2 days later and now starts even quicker. Not sure how that is even possible. You so much as breathe on the key and she starts up.

3rd run was a success. Only issue was the 35 year old alternator belt came apart a quarter of a mile from the ramp. The wake on this old boat is amazing for that old of a boat and it tracks like it is on rails. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230628/f40d55c8378602930bbf029cc94c7bee.jpg
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[h2o-ski]

Another set back. The trailer does not have a vin that I can find anywhere on the trailer. So I went to the sheriff to start the process of getting the trailer registered as a homemade trailer. The only problem is that the officer that did an inspection said that the trailer looked manufactured and since I did not have photos to prove that it was homemade, would not issue a homemade trailer vin.

As a last resort, I contacted SMP trailers and gave them a serial number I found but they were unable to find anything. So now I am in search of a trailer in the area that I can modify to fit. I am looking at Magnum trailer that was holding a Glastron I/O. I know that I will have to clearance for the prop and tracking fins, but the price is decent and the trailer does not look too bad.

[Mischief IV]

Another set back. The trailer does not have a vin that I can find anywhere on the trailer. So I went to the sheriff to start the process of getting the trailer registered as a homemade trailer. The only problem is that the officer that did an inspection said that the trailer looked manufactured and since I did not have photos to prove that it was homemade, would not issue a homemade trailer vin.

As a last resort, I contacted SMP trailers and gave them a serial number I found but they were unable to find anything. So now I am in search of a trailer in the area that I can modify to fit. I am looking at Magnum trailer that was holding a Glastron I/O. I know that I will have to clearance for the prop and tracking fins, but the price is decent and the trailer does not look too bad.

This make absolutely no sense to me. No trailer that I am aware of has a VIN number. Serial number yes, VIN no. These were sold on a MSO only.
I have two trailers with original paperwork. It clearly states serial number and that is why I am finding it hard to believe Texas would need to have a VIN number for a trailer. I own seven trailers and every single one can be registered with just the serial number in Georgia. Simple photo or document is all they need at the DMV. Sounds like Texas is making it extra difficult for you. You sure you need a VIN? These ARE NOT cars with motors and trannies.

https://i.imgur.com/dURnn00.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2mUsdfv.jpg

[Mischief IV]

https://www.txdmv.gov/motorists/buying-or-selling-a-vehicle/trailers
https://goneoutdoors.com/register-boat-trailer-texas-6956516.html

Not finding anything in Texas about a VIN. Needs title if over 4000 pounds but SMP trailers weight 950 # as stated on MCO. With the boat you're still under 4k pounds. Boats were 2850 to 3000 pounds depending on year.

[h2o-ski]

Texas got a lot more stringent on boat and trailer registration since Hurricane Ike. There was a lot of people that were claiming abandoned and lost boats and trailers. It used to be a lot easier to register trailers and they did not need a vin.

The serials that you have on your trailers would suffice to get the trailer registered, but I have none of that.

I took the trailer to another agency for a second opinion and they agreed that it is "homemade". So now I am just going through the process of getting a vin assigned. Reading through the 1st agency notes, I could still have applied for a homemade vin, just may have had more eyes on it. I have the paper work filled out to be 4500 GVWR. The trailer I have tipped the scales at 1060lbs so that gives me 3400lbs to play with. I do plan on extending the tongue, replacing the steps and a few other odds and ends so that will eat into the carrying capacity but I should have enough head room.

[h2o-ski]

Third time is a charm. Finally got a VIN assigned and now eligible for getting registration for the trailer. :D Just in time for an upcoming trip to a lake that actually has water. In that time while fighting with the DMV, I completely redid the fuel system. The cheap Chinese pump would only pump at 2psi so I replaced it with a Carter p4594 and now get a solid 5psi. That will hopefully resolve the surging the boat had while at speed.