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View Full Version : Anyone with subwoofers in the boat......



98SupraComp
06-04-2003, 03:45 PM
I am looking into putting a 10 inch or 12 inch sub in my boat, wondering what kind of boxes you guys have used, like a bandpass or sealed box. thanks

Salty87
06-05-2003, 03:31 PM
sealed, JL 12w3 in front of the drivers feet

suprarider
06-07-2003, 07:57 PM
We have an 8" Bazooka behind the driver's kick panel, the driver gets some thump but not enough for my taste :)

dba4life
06-09-2003, 12:52 PM
I have a 10in Bazooka amplified tube (RS10A) under the bow on the drivers side. It puts out a heathy amount of bass in that location. I have Infinity 652i's in the factory front position. I then have Pioneer 6.5's in tower speakers that are attached to my pylon's board rack. The 4 speakers are powered by a Sony head unit. I am pretty happy with this setup.

You can see the speaker setup in these shots:

http://members.aol.com/dba4life/Supra_Front

http://members.aol.com/dba4life/Supra_Side

cws_kahuna
06-10-2003, 02:17 PM
I have a 10" Kicker Comp VR in a sealed box. It is under the dash, in front of the drivers feet. Box is 1 cubic ft. and it leaves plenty of leg room.

h2obug
06-26-2003, 08:08 PM
I have a 12 inch sealed box powered by 225 watt RMS amp. Sealed boxes are much smaller than bandpass.

GRAVITY04
07-06-2004, 01:05 AM
I have 2 10 inch punch pros with kenwood 6 inch in the boat, 4 mb quartz in chrome cans on the tower, kenwood 1200 amp , punch 340 and dual batteries. It rocks bro

mygreenmonster.com
07-06-2004, 04:09 PM
I have 1 10" Kenwood sub in an Audiobahn 10" ported tube enclosure connected in parallel with a non-amplified 8" bazooka rs series tube powered by a kenwood 1200 watt amp . They are located behind the driver kick panel. The bass blows many good car audio systems away.

;)

cowtipper179
07-14-2004, 06:48 AM
You guys with the kickin audio setups need to think about the power you're using -- I've seen 100 amps from stereos like the ones you mention, not counting the light bars, ballast pumps, etc, etc. Consider that the alternator only puts out 31 amps at engine idle & 70 amps max (3,000 engine RPM & up) -- you can only add so many batteries before you find yourself unable to crank the engine. Think about installing the latest and greatest -- the "Stoker 200" alternator -- puts out 130 amps at idle & 200+ amps at wakeboard speed and up. Easy to install -- bolt in replacement for the factory Delphi unit but you will need to beef up the cables from the alternator to the battery -- they come with the alternator. Price is $385 -- more if you have a dealer install it for you. Factory sponsored rider, Dave Briscoe, has one on his '04 SSV and local dealers in the Dallas area are installing them -- love mine. If interested, shoot me an email [email protected] or call my cell at 817-909-1421 & I'll hook you up with the manufacturer.

Eonsayo
01-15-2019, 09:33 AM
I apologize for bumping...but I want to share my expirience....

Here are a few basics:

2 cu.ft. internal isn't going to work with a ported 13W7 unless you run the port external to the enclosure which is a perfectly legit approach.

Surface area is king. It is far more efficient to produce output with surface area than excursion. So surface area is first priority and when you hit the wall on surface area you turn to excursion.

The W7 will give you excellent surface area because of the frameless design and resulting larger cone. The W7 will also give you excellent excursion under control with minimal distortion. The W7 will give you all of these qualities without having to push around a stupid amount of mass. In contrast, a woofer with a voice coil as heavy as a roll of quarters and a number of stacked spiders, etc. will handle lots of power and abuse but is an inefficient and clumsy transducer. Often these SPL monsters are really not efficient at all.

A woofer capable of extreme excursion will have less internal efficiency....so you need to have more power to see those benefits. Correctly matching the sub with power is essential.

Enclosure size does impact output, certainly at the lower end of the bandwidth. It is counterproductive to force more surface area in less box.

Bass-reflex has more output in the meaty part of the bass and more deep bass extension within the realm of most music. But it requires considerably more displacement. Bass-reflex makes it easy to align the system for more linear bandwidth or more peak output depending on your priorities.

The average output of one bass-reflex 13W7 like some models of these https://soundrating.com/best-12-inch-subwoofer/ versus two sealed 12W6 is fairly similar if both are powered to their potential.

It is going to be difficult in many boats to have either scenario direct-radiating. How the woofer(s) are loading into the boat will have a profound impact on output.

Just some observations and one good video for you. Hope this hepls.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kz9kxwgBgw

Mischief IV
01-15-2019, 12:37 PM
And just like that, a 15 year old thread comes back from the dead. Odd to say the least.

MarioMathews
10-14-2020, 05:47 PM
I replaced my entire system last summer. Using a clarion head, and all Polk Audio 6.5's and adding a 12 inch Polk Sub. you might get idea from here (https://speakersninja.com/best-underseat-subwoofer/) .Their speakers are marine rated and sound amazing. I opted to not cut a big whole in the glass.....and instead used a sealed box and mounted up under the wheelzCan still access the breaker panel with little trouble, and can easily remove if better access is needed for gauge replacement. Running them off a 5 channel amp mounted on fwd wall in head. Looks good, sounds amazing, can adjust the sub from mild to make your own waves. AMp has way more than enough power to drive this or a smaller sub. No separate high power amp needed, and the amp is marine rated and looks great too.