87 TS6M COMP Restoration

[rickr]

I have had request for info on my 87 TS6M COMP restoration.
Here is a link to the project on Boatdesign Forum http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/fiberglass-composite-boat-building/ski-boat-stringer-sole-replacement-20668.html

I bought the COMP last year for my wife on our anniversary. "The Boss" is uncomfortable driving my speed boat due to its monster engine w/poor idle. We wanted a good light boat that was easy to tow, fun to drive and a good swim/cruising platform to use on the lakes in East Tennessee. In my younger days I was an avid skier and spent a lot of time with Supras, Correct Crafts and Mastercrafts.

This particular Comp had 675 hours (that are probably original) new unholstery and a good trailer. I bought the boat knowing it had rotten floor, was very heavy in the water and had cowl shake. I assumed she needed stringers also.

Although I am an experienced mechanic, I AM A NOVICE with this project so if some of the more experienced repair guys have better ways of doing things please chme in.

Nov 07 when we picked up the boat, you can see she sits low in the water.

[rickr]

I spoke with some friends in the boating business and the Supra plant manager (late 80s) and was told to do the repair correctly the deck had to be pulled.
SOOOO I pulled the deck. Then I removed trailer wheels and braced trailer to floor and hull to trailer with a few dozen 4x4s.
TOOK A LOT OF PICTURES AND MEASURMENTS!

[rickr]

Next I pulled the floor (sole) to inspect the damage. About 25% of the stringers and cross members were rotten and most all of the foam was saturated with water.

[rickr]

I used a crow bar, air chisel with blood sweat and tears to get the foam out.
The wet foam weighed over 200#s

[rickr]

I found the best way to cut stringers out was with a "Sawzall"
To grind out the base of the stringer and old fiberglass I used a low rpm buffer with a 40 grit sanding disc and a belt sander.

[rickr]

I cut out one stringer at a time.
Although more expensive I decided to use epoxy and biaxel fiberglass to do the repairs.
The combo is more user friendly for a novice and stronger when completed.
I bought the materials from
http://www.uscomposites.com

The inner stringers are made up of many parts and took a lot of fabricating.

I am using 3/4" Exterior AC and marine plywood.

[rickr]

WHEW!!!!!! One side done.

[rickr]

Of course use safety equipment. My shop and lungs will never be the same :(

[rickr]

After all that work I needed a vacation ;)

[Salty87]

poly resin is not user friendly, i wonder what it's like using epoxy.

that is some tight work, rick.

[LUHRS68]

Hi, Nice Job Rick Does Anyone Have Any Thoughts Abought Not Reinstalling The Foam Around The Exhaust?

Thanks
George.

[Salty87]

i have foam near my exhaust pipes, but i didn't pour the foam so they aren't encapsulated. i haven't noticed any difference in noise or anything else.

[rickr]

LUHRS68
I decided to add a set of ski boat mufflers along with the Super Trapps to hopefully make the boat very quiet.
I built some wood/fiberglass brackets to hold the mufflers. I am not going to add flotation to the Supra BUT I plan on installing the Super Trapps with 5200 and using some "Great Stuff" foam around part of the mufflers to hold them in place and prevent any harmonic vibration.
I'll post some pics soon.

[csuggs]

Be real careful with the "Great Stuff" foam. It expands and grows like crazy. I don't know if it absorbs and holds water, but I would do a test before putting it back under deck.

[LUHRS68]

good idea,test the great stuff first, but i think it will hold water. the two part foam is 90% closed cell meaning it"s not supose to hold water,BUT thats what they used at the factory. and if you have opened up your floor you will find that over a period years it holdes it like a sponge. I just bought a 86 sunsport and the plywood under the fuel tank was wet,so i removed it and found the foam soked around the rear of the exhaust. so i kept on going up to the rear of the engine, it was dry that far up. i removed it any way so i could remove the exhaust pipes. stringers and floor were solid and dry. but i have a lot of blisters in the gelcoat, so that will take me time to repair also. sorry to be so long winded.

[csuggs]

LUHRS68
I also have an 86 Sunsport Skier with the floor "spongy" only on one side. On the same side I have a couple of soft spots in the stringer near where the exhaust goes under the deck and another one near a motor mount. I'm thinking of pulling up the floor to inspect the extent of the damage and also to let it dry out. How difficult is the floor to remove? Do you have any tips?

[LUHRS68]

csuggs
it"s not that hard, figure out how far you want to go,the floor is stapled to the stringers and is fiberglassed to the side of the hull. if your soft spots go under your inner side panels then you may want to remove the top, OR cut inner fiberglass panel. but then you would have to refiberglass and gelcoat that panel back in. if there are no soft spots going under that inner panel then you can cut the floor out just to the outer stringer. pm me I'll give you my #

[rickr]

csuggs
It is easy to remove the floor BUT it is impossible to dry out the foam.
I think you will be suprised at the extent of water damage under the floor.

I (NOVICE) have about 200hrs into my project so far and about 200 more left :(

BTW Boats over 22'(?) are not required to have flotation. I am not putting flotation back into the Supra. I am installing 2 bilge pumps, if she sinks, I'll swim to the bank and call the insurance man.

[rickr]

These tools are your friends when doing this kind of repair ;)
DA
Low RPM buffer
Angle grinder w/3M Roloc discs
Die Grinder
Brad point drill bits
Inclinometer
Belt Sander

Pic of bracing

[rickr]

Transom detail

The tow eye/lift ring had flexed, causing damage to the area where it goes thru the fiberglass on the transon SOOOO I beefed up the bracket area which will also make the swim platform stronger. Some of us weigh more than we did in 1987 :(

I am changing the t-handle drain plug to a Garboard style.

Yep, the rudder is NOT lined up with the propshaft on a TS6M????? These boats are known for snapping propshafts while doing spin turns. HMMMMM??????

BTW; The bilge water will NOT completely drain out of the stern plug on these boats. The low spot in the keel in front of the ski pole is at too much of an angle. I'll post some pics when I get to the bilge pumps.

[rickr]

Exhaust Detail

MY speed boat is VERY LOUD so we wanted the Supra to be quiet. SOOOOO I am installing a set of ski boat style mufflers along with the Super Trapps. I am anxious to hear how she sounds.

[rickr]

To decrease cowl shake I added a cross members (floors) at the ski pole and another toward the bow.
To increase glue area and floor stiffness I overlapped the plywood edge 3/8".

I have test fitted most of the rigging. Almost ready to open the cartridge of 5200 :)

[Salty87]

you must have some badass tools.

comp's and saltare's have pretty much identical stringer/engine support designs. do you have limber holes forward of the engine?

i left the factory pylon out of my rebuild. never used it. did you add the bulkhead on either side of the brace? they were already there for the saltare...kinda weird they'd design the same shape but not same support. your bulkheads look awesome.

if i get tired of the exhaust noise, i'm going to get fresh air exhaust added. having yours under the floor is way cool. can't wait to hear the report on the difference in sound.

are these pics up to date? where's the 5200 going?

[rickr]

Salty
In my spare time I do some engine building and rigging, along with car and motorcycle repair (for my own stuff). So I have a good assortment of tools ;)
Pic is of the speed boat rigging I did a couple years ago.

I put limber holes everywhere! EXCEPT in the stringers at the transom. I gave it a lot of thought. Since it is elevated at the bottom/center of the transom, drain holes in the stringers there would let the bilge water flow toward the corners :( SOOOOOO I designed the limber holes to drain the water toward the keel in front of the ski pole (while the boat is relatively level) and get pumped out with the bilge pump.

Originally, there were not any bulkheads, just floor bracing.

Pics of the Supra are from yesterday. 5200 for most of the rigging, I DO NOT plan on taking this boat apart again!

BTW: Youe Saltaire looks AWESOME! THANKS for the help on the TS6M :)

[rickr]

Pumps rigged.

Installing the Garboard Plug requires modifing and flange and center swim platform support.

[rickr]

A pastry bag makes running beads for filets easier. BUT you must work fast if using US Composits THICK epoxy. It heats up and cures FAST!

[rickr]

Got the sole (floor) in :)
I coated the 3/4" plywood twice with epoxy. Then I ran a filet of thickened epoxy across top of stringers and screwed it in.
I finished with one layer of 1708.

[rickr]

Some of the rigging is done almost time to start fitting the deck :)

[leetudor]

That looks good.

[Blackntan90]

Very nice work- thank you for all the pic's and descriptions!

[csuggs]

Yeh, Rick. I really appreciate all you've done to share your experience with those of us that are in for the same or similar experience. It sure helps to be able to see what we'llbe getting in to and to know that it can be done! GREAT WORK!
:)

[rickr]

More progress
Sole rigging is almost done :)

[rickr]

I did not want to install cleats for docking so I reinforced the grab rails with backing plates.

[rickr]

A few of the finishing touches.
I lucked up and found a coupld of NEW Airguides :)
Installed some LED courtsey lights.
Couldn't resist some polished stainless thru-hulls.

[rickr]

Anyone know what this is?
Center panel under bow. It's threaded????????

[rickr]

Carpet installed

I do not want to replace the sole again, so where screws are used, I am cutting the carpet away, drilling out the screw holes, epoxying the holes with the screws installed, then rigging with 5200.

[leetudor]

Are you going to paint the bilge area?

[mapleleaf]

the boat really looks great, unfortunately the background in one of the shots is your shop!! I need one of those !!!! Hard to find space in Toronto!

[rickr]

leetoudor
No paint. I was going to use Bilgekote but it requires primer with the epoxy resin I used. I did paint on an extra coat of epoxy resin.

Besides, you can see my handy work ;)

mapleleaf
I like my garage. It has made me much more productive, although I am getting behind on my projects due to the Supra repair.

[leetudor]

That is why I asked about the paint, it looks too clean to use.

[mapleleaf]

yeah, I think we're all behind on one project or another!!!

[rickr]

14months 10 days, The Deck is finally back ON :)

[mapleleaf]

wow, sorry WOW!!!

[rickr]

Carpet is trimmed out. I used 20oz from http://www.inglescarpetinc.com/id71.html
and Henry 663 outdoor/waterbased glue (Lowes).
The carpet I used is made in ribs and is directional.

[86Pirata454]

wow great job. Thanks for the description, I learned alot from this!

[rickr]

Our Comp had "Cowl Shake" probably due to the rotten floor and stringers. BUT also the attachment for the cowl, under the passenger seat left a lot to be desired SOOOOOO I added a 2"X brace to the sole (floor) for the seat bottom

[rickr]

I guess in 1987 they did not have the "Inflatables" we have today. SOOO the rear tow eye was not up to snuff.

I frabicated some aluminum plate, wrinkle coated, and installed w/5200. Later I will clean it up with black polysulfide caulk.

I hope now we do not tear the whole back of the boat out!!!!!!

[rickr]

While I had the engine out I replaced;
Cutlass bearing
Packing
Fuel tank, fill, vent and supply hoses

Engine;
Belts
Hoses
Fuel filter

I also wanted to replace old leaky cork valve cover gaskets (replaced w/Felpro Perma Torque) exhaust and riser gaskets. I took my time but still broke the heads off of two of the riser bolts. Freeze Off (it WORKS) and Vise grips got them out.

[rickr]

I wired a battery switch and an accessory fuse panel for the depthfinder, GPS and Vapor detector.

She's purring like a kitten ;) I'm getting excited!

[csuggs]

Rick -
What a great job you've done on your boat. I've followed the story since last year and I've almost got chills seeing the water come out of the supertrapps. It won't be long now!

[mapleleaf]

Yeah it really looks great, looks like you found the 3" vents you were looking for. it's gonna be a new boat....from '87!!!!

[saltare inverts]

I am impressed with your work What do you do for a living. How do you find the time to do such a good job. I need you address so I can drop my boat of for you to redo. Justg playing. It does look great though!

[rickr]

Maple
Those are the old ones, new ones are on the list.

Saltare
Self-employed, retail, bakery,coffee business. We are seasonal so I try to end up with a winter project to keep me off the streets ;) I did not know the TS6M was going to take me 1 1/2 years. I don't have that much spare time!

Avatar is my last big boat project. A 502 I designed and built from the block up, for "The Other" boat.

[87 Supra Comp TS6m]

That was a fun post to read as I have the same boat. I've had the boat for 12 years, and over the last few years a couple soft spots have developed in my floor. They're small, and not in foot traffic areas, so not a big deal. I've been hesitant to dig into it as I'm a novice and concerned without knowing what I'm doing I may turn a nuisance into a big problem. Any advice?

[Blackntan90]

Awesome! Top notch not only in quality, but also very well documented! I also love your garage( is it wrong to covet another mans garage?)!!! Keep up the great work, and let us see more pic's!!

[rickr]

THANKS for the compliments!

Almost there. Seats go in tomorrow :)

87 Supra
It is a big project. A lot depends on how long you plan on keeping your Supra. We just bought ours and plan on keeping it a long time so I wanted to fix everything to last. If you have a soft floor I would expect wet and/or rotten stringers also :(

[mapleleaf]

If the seats go in tomorrow.... the water's not far away........

[hammbone76]

THANKS for the compliments!

Almost there. Seats go in tomorrow :)

87 Supra
It is a big project. A lot depends on how long you plan on keeping your Supra. We just bought ours and plan on keeping it a long time so I wanted to fix everything to last. If you have a soft floor I would expect wet and/or rotten stringers also :(

Hey RickR,
I've got an '85 Supra Comp TS6M that I am going to have to do the same job to... :( I plan on keeping it for many years, so I hope to do as great a job as you did (unfortunately, I have to do all my work outside) :(

Did you happen to make patterns for the stringers? Anyway I could get them from you? I was debating on using the pour-in fiberglass epoxy stuff to replace the stringers instead of wood, but I still don't know... I've also heard of "prefab" stringers that are shipped to you, all you have to do is spread epoxy on them and set them. I imagine that those are expensive though, if they even make them for this boat.

I would love to hear back from you about my questions... Thank you in advance!
And thank you for the pictures and details... I think that will really help when I am going through it also.
Your boat looks great!

Rich

[87SunSportMikeyD]

Rickr again awesome awesome thread your work is great although I would not wish it on anyone.

<<Yep, the rudder is NOT lined up with the propshaft on a TS6M????? These boats are known for snapping propshafts while doing spin turns. HMMMMM??????>>

I always thought this was to counter the rotation of the propellor, which would otherwise cause the boat to want to steer to the left (like a car out of alignment). I had not heard of any issues doing powerturns with older Supras. Thanks for the warning.

I am also in need of a couple round 3" transom vents. Couple of mine are damaged. Interested in where to get these. I don't see any at skidim.

Also could you tell me more about cowl shake? I googled it but only found your thread. :) I will take a look at the support bar on my boar. Just curious.

Thanks and good luck. What boat do you use for your main boat?

[rickr]

Rich
To make the stringers I used a table saw an "Inclinometer? (Harbor Freight) Took a lot of time and measuring. I did not make a template. I am not famaliar with the non'wood stringers.

[rickr]

87Sun
The round vents are not available BUT the new square ones will fit. I have not replaced mine yet.

Our 87 TS6M had cowl shake which is the boat flexing causing the helm area to shake when running over rough water. We were able to go for a short "Shake Down" cruise yesterday. She's riding solid as a rock. I am very pleased in how tight she feels. I was worried there would be some unusal harmonics because I did not refoam but there were none.

Trying to finish up and get some seat time. I'll post more pics soon :)

[csuggs]

Great to see her in the water Rick! I've heard that the cowl shake will be eliminated with stringer and floor replacement - great job!

[milner351]

I wish you'd have posted all this before I did this to my boat, I finished it about 2 years ago.

Nearly the same boat - '86 t6m, I still have some work to do - I need to build a rear seat for it - it wasn't there when I bought the boat, and I'd like to build a jump seat / cooler behind the driver seat as well.

I'm using a driver seat from a pontoon - but it's too wide - any suggestions for a driver seat that fits well between the sideboard and engine cover?

I have the transmission out for the second time - rebuild went well but the input shaft was pitted enough that it didn't seal - so it's out again and I'm searching for either a new shaft, someone to repair the shaft - or one of those shaft collars like you can get for a harmonic balancer.... time will tell.

[SUPRA_ALLEGRO_LANE]

Gotta say looks awesome. Followed this story from your first post, alot of work went into this boat and it looks great. Thanks for your posts.

[rickr]

Thanks for the replies.

milner
Although our upholstery has been replaced, it looks like we have the original frame for the driver's seat. I had to fudge a little by offsetting the seat 1 1/2" to starboard (seat is straight, angle in pic is due to camera). It sits fine.

Pic of dash with new Airguides, Vapor detector, wrinkle paint on steering wheel bezel, shift knob, depthfinder and GPS. GPS has a temporary mount that fits in the cupholder. We only use it on unfamilar lakes.

[rickr]

My solution for cup holders. I removed the bottom of a regular plastic recessed cupholer and used a couple of screws (bottom screw should be as low as possible.

[rickr]

Pic of new, opening, vent windows and rub rail insert. I am experimenting with the rub rail rope insert. I do not like the 1/2" white. I am going to try 5/8" black.

[rickr]

FINALLY! Out on the water (collecting driftwood) with the spoiled "Four legged black child" and "The Boss" ;)

More pics soon.

[Salty87]

awesome, congratulations!

boat looks great, i think the black rope rail should look slick.

that's a happy looking dog too.

[87SunSportMikeyD]

Love the windows, great thinking with the cupholders. What is a vapor detector?

[rickr]

87SunSport
A vapor detector senses gas fumes in the bilge so , in theory, you do not need to run your blower.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/40206/377%20710/0/vapor/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710&Ne=0&Ntt=vapor&Ntk=Primary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=vapor&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=8&subdeptNum=12411&classNum=12413

[macpres]

rickr,
i have an 86 supra comp ts6m and just pulled the top half off and am ready to get started on this project, a few questions. did you fiberglass the floor after you installed it? did you epoxy after you glassed it? what epoxy did you use? also, you talk about 5200 a lot, what are you referring to?

sorry for all the questions. just pulled out my plywood and it was shot but thankfully stringers are in great shape.

also, i am planning on refoaming the boat, wondering what you think about putting in some drains into the bilge area or should i concentrate on keeping it dry for good?

also, most of my caps for the screws that hold the sides down are shot, did you find any place to get these?

thanks for all your help, great job!!!

[rickr]

macpres
Before I installed the pywood it was coated on all surfaces with 2 coats of thin/med. I fiberglassed the top with one layer of 1708. I also painted another layer of resin on the glass afterward.

I used US Composites thin/med for most of the project. Thick/med mixed with cabosil for the putty/filets. If you work in hot temps you might need some slow. FYI: Thick/med kicks much faster than thick/med.

5200 is a 3M Polyurathane caulk, it is permanent! 4200 or Boatlife/Lifecaulk (Polysulfide) is not as permanent. West Marine has some good info on their web sight.

Our TS6M already had drains but the foam clogged them up. More drains are better.

Fasteners http://www.mcmaster.com Don't forget the rivits.

GOOD LUCK! The floor (sole) should be much easier than my project ;)

[macpres]

What type of fiberglass did u use? Thanks for the help

[rickr]

http://www.uscomposites.com/specialty.html
Glass for sole, 1708 Kyntex, cloth tape for the edges.

[Salty87]

macpres...i don't have a comp but i've rebuilt my saltare from the stringers up. search saltare rebuild for some pics.


also, i am planning on refoaming the boat, wondering what you think about putting in some drains into the bilge area or should i concentrate on keeping it dry for good?

this is a great question. when i was rebuilding mine, i cringed at the thought of water getting back into the foam rotting out all of my hard work. the fact is, i can't fiberglass as good as a factory can...rickr might ;) , his work is as clean as i've seen on the internet. instead of trying to defeat water (there's little point in even trying) i modified a few things. i think the factory cut a few corners and they were really important ones.

*adding drainage to the bilge....YES. a few well sealed holes in the stringers will allow any water to drain properly. wood can't rot if the water doesn't sit. the factory couldn't keep water out, i doubt many people can.

*pourable flotation foam....it's good stuff. it floats like a mother but when it's poured into a hull it clogs everything up. check my rebuild thread for pouring foam blocks so you still get the benefit of foam but it can drain.

i used poly resin in my rebuild, also mostly from us composites.

[macpres]

quick question for you guys, anyone thought of glassing in the plywood supports in for the engine cover rather than screwing them down after and wrapping the carpet up and over them, seems like it would be much more solid, wouldnt take much to hold it in place and would be a nice clean look, let me know if there might be a reason not to do this.

also, did you guys glue your plywood to the stringers this time?

Rickr or Salty87, how much fiberglass and resin did you guys need for the sole?

[rickr]

macpres
I added a brace in each corner of the lower engine cowl (no screws). Now I can lift it out for easier access to the bilge.

Ran a bead of epoxy/cabo putty to the stringers before placing the plywood down. Then used a syringe to fill the predrilled screw holes. Fastened with flat head screws before the final layer of glass.

Not sure how much resin. Guessing, 2 gallons would do it.

You may want to start a post in the "Service and Repair Forum" for more ideas. I am a novice:)

[myk]

Anyone know what this is?
Center panel under bow. It's threaded????????

Not sure if you figured this out already or not, but that threaded thing is where you store the cap for the light bar when your using the light. Rarely every used mine anyway's lol... Great thread btw, I'm doing a 90' comp right now.

Mike

[knoble]

That is a shit load of work!! How long did it take you complete it all? After doing all that and looking back do you think it was worth it? You did one hell of a job! I do not know if would want to go through all of that!!

:cool:

[rickr]

myk
So that's how you keep from loosing that little cap. THANKS!, Good Call!

knoble
16 months. Was it worth it, well, I learned a lot and she runs great. Been there, done that, next time I will probably hire fiberglass repair out ;)
BTW: I started with good; trailer, upholstery, engine and trans. Now, I expect the hull to last forever!

[rickr]

Another tweak. I do not like to look through a windshield on the water so I raised the seat 3" with plywood shims.
My buddies 11 and 13 year old.

[mapleleaf]

Very interested in the performance of your booster. I have thought of getting over the windshield with a similar platform, can't stand looking through it either. Has it helped the doghouse clear the driver's seat as well?? And was 3" enough??
That Carpet looks famaliar.......thanks again for the Lowes tip!

[rickr]

mapleaf
My seat is offset about 1.5" to starboard. Clears the shifter by an inch or so. Raising the seat 3" puts the bottom of the seat just above the doghouse base which is made out of 2X6" on our boat.

I drive with the seat forward and like the position. 3" puts me well above the windshield.

I used a 3/4" board below the carpet for mounting the pedestal(see pic), then cut 4 more 3/4" for the booster below the seat iteslf. Ran her awhile like that but decided to remove one for a total of 3".

I have a small problem with drianage for the boat cover with the seat raised that far but I made a bow assembly out of PVC that fixed the problem.

[mapleleaf]

Great, I've lots of carpet left over as well as a bunch of marine ply (3/4"), My seat base now isn't built into the floor. My slider's are mounted to a piece of ply screwed to the floor. I think I'll get into this today and see how it works , I've already got issues with my cover and have employed some ABS pipe with tennis balls on top to help direct water. If I get the winter out of this cover I'll be happy, $120 and it has been stretching all summer, found a guy who'll do one custom and thinking about it for the fall..thanks Rick

[Sacymn]

The Comp Air 9 is scheduled to be reviewed by Kitplanes next month. We are unsure of an issue date, but we will post it once we know.

[RickV]

Anyone know what this is?
Center panel under bow. It's threaded????????

I always put my cap off the bow light holder on there when using the light at night.

[rickr]

mapleaf
I am happy with the Sunbrella cover I got from http://www.skiboatcovers.com/sunbrella.php?pattern=SU603 As far as I am concerned Sunbrella is the way to go.
I am not done with the "Appalachian Engineering" on the PVC but this is what I have so far.

RickV I cannot believe I still have the cap. Holder is a great idea.

[mapleleaf]

Great, more questions now....I went "rocky Mountain" with ABS pipe standing straight up, thinking apalachian may be better, couldn't quite make out the stainlees pvc connection on the gunnels and did you heat and curve the pvc or pressure fit it???
Kinda looks like you halved a lentgh of pipe and it snaps over the stainless, maybe making that unit removeable in one piece???
More beautiful work Rick, do your patent's apply to Canadian's??

[rickr]

mapleaf
I am trying to get the Supra/cover set up so I can leave her outside during winter snows without damaging the expensive, Sunbrella cover.

The pvc is lighter than Sch 40, label says PVC 1120 SDR 21 200psi 73* (Home Depot).
Thinner wall and bends easier than Sch 40.

After it has been in the sun a few days it holds the bend, I did not apply heat.

Yes I did split the parts that fits onto the stainless rail.

[csuggs]

Great Idea Rick - I like what you've done.

[chalmers58]

[QUOTE=LUHRS68;10488]csuggs
it"s not that hard, figure out how far you want to go,the floor is stapled to the stringers and is fiberglassed to the side of the hull. if your soft spots go under your inner side panels then you may want to remove the top, OR cut inner fiberglass panel. but then you would have to refiberglass and gelcoat that panel back in. if there are no soft spots going under that inner panel then you can cut the floor out just to the outer stringer. pm me I'll give you my #[/

Hi, Your thread caught my eye. I've just pulled up the floor of my '84 Comp to the hull on sides and forwqrd to the driver's foot well. The floor was pretty much shot, but stringers and foam appear to be in pretty good shape. Wondering how much more work is involved in removing the entire top fiberglass section versus cutting the inner panel & re-glassing & gelcoating.

Thank you,

David Chalmers
Malden, MA
781-844-4827

[chalmers58]

[QUOTE=LUHRS68;10488]csuggs
it"s not that hard, figure out how far you want to go,the floor is stapled to the stringers and is fiberglassed to the side of the hull. if your soft spots go under your inner side panels then you may want to remove the top, OR cut inner fiberglass panel. but then you would have to refiberglass and gelcoat that panel back in. if there are no soft spots going under that inner panel then you can cut the floor out just to the outer stringer. pm me I'll give you my #[/

Hi, Your thread caught my eye. I've just pulled up the floor of my '84 Comp to the hull on sides and forwqrd to the driver's foot well. The floor was pretty much shot, but stringers and foam appear to be in pretty good shape. Wondering how much more work is involved in removing the entire top fiberglass section versus cutting the inner panel & re-glassing & gelcoating.

Thank you,

David
Malden, MA

[rickr]

A member emailed a few questions so I am replying on the Forum with some new pics.

TS6M Comp is solid and has been running GREAT for the last couple years :)

I AM NOT AN EXPERIENCED BOAT BUILDER. USE OTHER REFERENCES ALSO!

I spent some time with the angle grinder and sander to get the stringers to match the hull
78177816

[rickr]

I dry fitted in the hull then used epoxy/clamps/deck screws to fasten the fir together. Make sure to counter sink the deck screws or they will develop a bubble when layering with fiberglass.

78197818

[wotan2525]

Those limber holes look great!

[rickr]

I bought one piece of 3/4 marine plywood for hull structure (used exterior plywood for floor)

7820

[rickr]

I used 2 layers of 1708 BUT alternating with 1808 is better. Fileted the transitions (cabosil/epoxy) beveled the fir and used a final layer of tape on the edges of the 1708. Epoxy the wood immediately before layering with fiberglass.
7823

I used some extra layers of 1708 around the engine mounts.

]7824

[rickr]

Rudder/transom/stringer detail.



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[rickr]

Our "Other Boat" has a monster engine (Avatar) so we wanted the Supra to be quiet. I used inline muffler along with the Super traps. Sound is GREAT.

Muffler/stringer detail.78287829

[bens250ex]

Hey rickr i am the one that sent you the email thanks for the response! Question on the rudder/transom though. Did you a layer of cabosil before you put in the pieces for the transom and the rudder pad or did you just run a bead around the outside of the pieces of wood?

[rickr]

Ben
I used Cabosil/Epoxy in between the wood and hull.

Some people use caulk or foam tape.

The Cabosil/Epoxy mixture is brittle after it cures so if it were to crack the failed connection might creak.

[bens250ex]

HowHHis did you get the rudder assembly apart? I got the rudder out but can't get the assembly apart ?

[rickr]

Sorry for the slow response. Been @ the lake cabin ;)

To remove 5200, "Anti Bond 2015 and a piano wire/wire fishing leader AND PATIENCE!

I used 5200 for critical, below water line.

8013 8012 8011

[rickr]

8366836783688369Lively wanted some pics of the stringers and cap going back on.

[rickr]

Pics of the floor.


83708371

[rickr]

Deck going on.


83728373

[lively]

Hey rick thanks man ! how did you go about measuring to know how much to pull in on the straps ? Thanks again !!!

[rickr]

Livley
I did not measure for the straps. Not that critical.

[bens250ex]

rickr that thing looks so good, i wish you could have laid my stringers and glassed them in.. Its just not my calling lol

[Blackntan90]

Nice shop, rickr! My kind of decorating!

[jet]

I cant see any of the pic's??

[jet]

I can see them from like pg 5 and on just not the first five? Nice job though. I remember that one from way back.

[rickr]

Not sure what happened to the old pics?????

I have them on the PC at home. Let me know if you want anything specific.

THANKS!

[bens250ex]

Rickr what you end up doing for bildge paint?

[rickr]

I was going to use "Bilgekote" because I have had good luck with it in the past BUT it is incompatable with epoxy resin so I left the bilge and floor unfinished.
It has been a couple of years and I have no issues :)

[lively]

Hey bud do you have a photobucket account ? i was kinda wanting to see your rebuild ...

[bens250ex]

What will be compatable with the epoxy?

[rickr]

Over the next few week I will work on uploading pics to my album
https://forum.supraboats.com/album.php?albumid=295
Sorry pictures are not in order :(

Ben
I am not sure what is compatable to paint on epoxy resin. I ended up painting resin in the center bilge area. No problem with UV rays there. Rest of the deck is covered with carpet.

Check with your local auto spray paint store, they might be able to help.

[bens250ex]

Rickr how many layers of 1708 did you put on rudder and swim platform?

[rickr]

Ben
I used two layers of 1708.

Also I sanded the cornersedges on the plywood pieces and created a filet joint so the glass would lay well.

[bens250ex]

Another question did you glue the ribs to side of hull?

[rickr]

Another question did you glue the ribs to side of hull?


Yes, I epoxied/glassed the ribs to the hull sides. I also epoxied/ glassed the floor and floor trim (where the interior panels get screwed to the hullsides)
I used some straps to hold the hullsides in a neutral position while glassing, so the top would fit back on.

Weigh your options, remember I AM A NOVICE ;)


8505 8506

[rickr]

Final pics are in album #2 here
Bitch/dash/side windows/rub rail/tow eye brace
https://forum.supraboats.com/album.php?albumid=297

[bens250ex]

no expert my ass! lol looks like a pro did it compared to mine...the 1708 was not my friend i ended up with a few bubbles.....it sucked but what do ya do. i got a little more glassing to do till i can start putting things back together. Cant wait to have that engine back in there runnin

[rickr]

Ben
While you have the engine out it is a good time to replace belts/hoses/valve cover gaskets.

I got belts/hoses from "Skidim" (call them, they are VERY helpfull)