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90 ts6m comp
08-12-2003, 09:15 PM
Just new to the board and have spent the last couple of evenings reviewing many posting - seem like prop selection is best done by trial and error.

However, if anyone could comment on my situation it would be helpful.

Dealer just installed a "michigan 90 14rh14 4 blade prop" on my 90 comp. Didn't have the original prop in stock (1416 3 blade). I haven't noticed this make of prop anywhere so am wondering if it is OK quality or could I do better.

Mechanic said I would lose some top end mph and that is only downside.

cryonchick
08-12-2003, 09:41 PM
I have a michigan prop 13x12 LH 1" bore. Works great, i get a great hole shot.

I hope that you have a RH engine if he put a RH prop on there. I was under the impression that Supras were a LH turn engine. Might want to check that out.

Brian Raymond
08-15-2003, 11:04 PM
You will notice a better holeshot, yet loose some top end speed, see if you can get a "Try before you buy" deal, to verify this is the prop. for you. Sounds like you have the gear reduction, you can still get this prop. from SkiersChoice. Contact Anthony Cooper, (865)856-3035x118, or email; [email protected]. Brian Raymond

99 LAUNCH
07-01-2005, 02:53 PM
Originally posted by Brian Raymond


You will notice a better holeshot, yet loose some top end speed, see if you can get a "Try before you buy" deal, to verify this is the prop. for you. Sounds like you have the gear reduction, you can still get this prop. from SkiersChoice. Contact Anthony Cooper, (865)856-3035x118, or email; [email protected]. Brian Raymond

selle92
07-01-2005, 03:56 PM
"I have a michigan prop 13x12 LH 1" bore. Works great, i get a great hole shot.

I hope that you have a RH engine if he put a RH prop on there. I was under the impression that Supras were a LH turn engine. Might want to check that out."


I have a '91 Mariah, and also have RH rotation.. I think it just varies by what engine is in the boat. But yeah, make sure the prop LH or RH matches the engine. I can be found on the serial number I believe of the engine if its right or left.

I have the Michigan 3 blade same dimensions/same prop and I like it for my needs. Don't know what the 4 blade difference would be- and to be honest, probably won't make THAT much of a difference.

Biggest thing is making sure the size is correct and of course the RH or LH for the engine...

buckwyatt
08-29-2005, 12:43 AM
I have lots of props, and have tried many I no longer have, I have found that for pulling up multiple skiers, and 13x12 Nibral 3 blade is the best, for speed, a 14x16, and for all around, I use a 12x16 stainless racing prop (has flat edges on backside)

Any Supra will dang-near turn any prop, if you are at high altitude, stay away from the 14's diameter or props with more than 14 pitch

IndyMatt
11-11-2005, 10:16 AM
What is the stock NiBrAl prop for the 2004 line of supras. I was under the impression that it was a 13"x13"LH (unsure pitch) This is just the standard prop on the 5.7L Assault without gear reduction. Im happy with the prop but am always looking for a spare if anyone wants to sell their factory spinner. Thanks.

OUI
11-12-2005, 09:19 PM
If you want to talk to the experts, who also make the best props in the world call Acme at 888-661-2263 tell them what you have (boat and motor) and they'll dial you in. I have a '89 Saltare with a 454 and I'm going with a 12X16.

silvtongdvl
11-14-2005, 09:36 AM
Things have changed recently in the world of props.
Up until the NC props (automatic machining to a very high exact spec) the props were machined by hand. 3 blade props could have vibration because of the difficulty in machining. 4 blade props inheritly were smoother because of the natural balance in an equal number of blades.
Blade surface (dia + # of blades/ size of blade) is a factor in performance. In general, the more surface you have the better the bite. Pitch is the distance of travel during 1 rotation. The greater the pitch - the further you travel and the higher top end.
A high top end prop would have 3 blades,a small diam. and High pitch #. The first number given by prop manufactures is the Dia x the pitch size.
Selecting the right prop depends alot on what you plan to do.
Personally I run 4 blade SS prop. We wakeboard and I don't like spending alot of time & money at the prop shop. Nibal props are good, but every little thing you hit (small - light things) puts a ding in your prop. I have run over the same things alot of my friends have - they have spent money repairing props. SS also performs better because it doesn't flex as much. I also believe 4 blades hold speed better than 3 blade
Some may say " if you hit something hard - it will mess up your tranny or shaft" If you make direct contact with a rock or log its gonna tear up your drive gear reguardless of what type prop you have. The insurance deductable is the same either way.
I agree with calling ACME or the other prop manufactures.
~S~

IndyMatt
11-14-2005, 09:45 AM
Ive thought about going stainless also. Of course the fear is, as you said... That putting a harder prop on the boat will transfer more impact power to the drive shaft and engine components. Im not so much worried about the catestrophic giant motor stopping rock, but more the smaller things.. logs... soft bottom in shallow areas... the occasional skull. I like the idea of the prop being able to absorb some energy so I dont have the smaller problems like shaft vibration and allignment issues. I really like the look of the stainless steel, and had one on an older I/O that I could trim. But all in all, Im pretty happy with my NiBrAl.

DKJBama92Mariah
11-14-2005, 08:55 PM
I considered going for stainless as well, but i prefer to stick with the nibral. Last spring, i hit something BIG. I still dont know what it was, but it made me wonder if a california redwood could somehow end up in a river in Alabama. After $500 in parts + my own labor for that job, i think i'll stick with Nibral. I'll pay $75 every year to get the prop repitched and balanced to lessen the chance that i might have to go through that ordeal again. I consider the Nibral and its yearly maintenance to be cheap insurance against the possibility of catastrophic drivetrain damage. The way I see it, it could have been worse. I ended up replacing the shaft and strut, but it could have taken out the tranny as well.

Cheers,
DKJ

Bent strut pic:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v55/dkjpika/Boat/BentStrutPic.jpg