86 Sunsport Preparation

[csuggs]

I can't wait to get on the water, but first things first. Since this will be my first full season with the boat I decided to do some additional maintenance to the boat.
New belts and hoses (including fuel line). New fuel filter cartridge (the one in there wasn't the right one). New impeller. New spark plugs and wires. Installed electronic ignition. New key switch (the old one would occasionally stick). And of course, I did the necessary oil and filter change.
As you can see in the pics, I have to remove the swim platform to close my garage door so I'm having my platform brackets modified and new transom brackets fabricated that will be permanently mounted. I will through-bolt them to the transom and add stainless backing plates to spread the load a little. Therefore I had to remove the fuel tank to access the interior of the transom. Also I now have access to clean and lube the rudder.
Still a lot to do, but am getting there! ;)

[87SunSportMikeyD]

Wow! Sure is cool so see what it looks like under there. How is the foam in the back? Dry?

I took out my rudder because it was leaking. There are two rubber o-rings to seal it. Any parts store carries them. Also it had a flat spot we tried to sand lightly till round again.

Looks good so I voted YES! :)

[rickr]

cs
Lookin' GOOOOD!

BTW: I kept my threaded aluminum plates for the swim platform bolts. I decided if fat girls start jumping up and down on the swim platform I would rather the bolts pull than the transom break ;)

[Blackntan90]

Thanks for the pic's, I also want to service my rudder and replace my fuel line! Been ordering parts and getting things done around the house now so I'll have time to play all summer! This year I am installing a raw water strainer, plugs, wires, cap&rotor and all the filters. When I first got my boat I installed the electronic ignition- great upgrade! Where do you go with your supra? We go to dam #4 on the upper potomac river, and when time allows raystown lake in PA

[mapleleaf]

Wow Clint good on ya! That's a decent list your chiseling away at, I'm still about a month from having my boat in the city, when all that will be doable.... I don't think my coworkers can wait a month, if I mention the boat again I maybe work'in alone!!!!!!

[csuggs]

I figured out last night that I re-installed the raw water pump backwards - it doesn't work the way I would have thought. But I looked it up online in the Sherwood technical manual to be sure and now I'll have to turn the pump around - going to mark the housing with an arrow so that won't happen again!

RickR - I hope there's no fat girls jumping up and down on the platform - but you never know! My biggest reason for through-bolting is that I don't know if I can trust the t-nuts that are there.

Blackntan - we go on the Ohio River around Parkersburg (Blennerhassett Island) most of the time. Sometimes down to the Belleville Lock and occassionally we may go to Sutton or Summersville Lake in West Virginia. There are a few Supras on the river - all older models like mine.:D

Leaf - I know what you mean about work. I expect my co-workers and family and friends are all getting pretty tired of me talking about the boat by now! Too bad there's no place to keep your boat in town.:sad:

I'll update with more pics after I get the transom brackets later this week!

[csuggs]

Anybody know the best way to drain the ATF out of the velvet drive? Siphon pump maybe? Which fitting or port works best to drain from?

[mapleleaf]

what's the story on these electronic ignition's? Complicated?, Expensive? I don't know much when it comes to this kind of stuff, any pro's and con's????
oh and the boat's gotta come to the city, I'll find room!

[csuggs]

If you get rid of the points and condensor in your distributor by installing an electronic ignition, you take away the chance for many ignition problems that can result from worn points and poor gap settings. I installed a Pertronix Ignitor that I got from Discount Inboard Marine. I think they still have some on sale in the clearance item section to fit the 351. I paid only about $65 and the regular price is about $150. Check out www.skidim.com and go to the clearance items. Installation is simple - but make sure that you wire the ignition through your ballast resistor which should be located under the plastic housing at the rear of the engine (where the starter solenoid is located). The ballast resistor is a rectangular-shaped white ceramic block with two wires coming out of it. I can take pictures if you want.

I guess I should also mention that the electronic ignition that I got on clearance is for a Prestolite distributor, through 1986 models. Newer models need a different part, which is not on clearance. I got lucky I guess! Anyway, you should have either a Prestolite or Mallory distributor on your boat and it should be indicated on the distributor somewhere.

[mapleleaf]

Thanks, I'll be looking into it......

[csuggs]

Got the supertrapps all cleaned up and resealed with 3M 4200 today. Also installed new pitot tubes and hoses. Now I'm working on rebuilding the back bench seat - replacing wood only and reusing the original vinyl. Also I have to replace the wood under the ski locker cover. Getting closer . . . . .

[mapleleaf]

Looks so far...
I'm thinking I may end up reusing my old vinyl for this year too. Becareful taking the back rest portion of the bench apart there are little tiedowns sewn into the seat between the upper and middle back insert. I found that working from the outside in, removing staples worked best.....
Please tell me you put something on that ply to protect it....hint, hint, nudge, nudge...
Feels good to say goodbye to that rotten stuff eh?

[csuggs]

two coats of helmsman varnish - I figured that to be as good as marine plywood, and a whole lot more inexpensive! Not taking the back of the bench apart - it's still in good shape.

[mapleleaf]

lucky you, I dread putting it back together......That marine ply is expensive, and they didn't come with it from the factory.....

[csuggs]

The only bad plywood in the seats was the back three cushions on the bench seat and the plywood under the ski locker cover and the plywood under the three seat cushions. That much hasn't been too difficult to deal with so far. All of the seat cushions in the front have good plywood underneath. Now the floor is another story. If I keep the boat, I'll end up having someone replace the stringers and floor. And if I do that, I'll wait another year or so and get a new interior. I love the new interior I recently saw on this site - somewhere in TX? What a beauty - that's what I want! I'm sure there's nobody here that can do that good :( My wife and I may make that a winter project somewhere down the road!

Fired the boat up today for the first time this season and re-adjusted the timing. The manual says set to 10deg BTC and the sticker on the engine says 6deg BTC - but it was set a lot slower. We had to advance the timing about 18deg to get it to 10deg BTC which is where we left it. It ran great in the driveway, but we'll have to see how it runs under load.

[87SunSportMikeyD]

Yeah mine really needed the timing adjusted it ran a lot better after that. It runs good under load, but with the stock prop it gets a little 'bogged down' and rpms are too low. ACME#913 13x10.5 coming soon.

Sorry to hear about your floors and stringers. Does the interior NEED replaceing?

While you are ramking the seat bottoms, I would modify the bench seat so it can hold a sac. Pretty quick and easy.

[csuggs]

Probably because of the additional weight in your boat you need a different prop. I use the OEM 13x13 3-blade OJ and it runs strong all the way through the rpms. I'm just anxious to see how advancing the timing is going to affect performance, and just as important, how the advanced timing will affect starting the engine when hot. Won't know that until we put it in the water and run it under a load with the motor cover on.

[87SunSportMikeyD]

It came with a 13x13 and a 13x12 which was on the boat. The former owners were barefooters. I would think they would want more top speed but I guess they wanted the holeshot for deepwater starts. With no ballast they work great.

The 13x12 only boggs down under a heavy load. It is fine for up to about 1000lbs. Only when you really start to weight it to the max does that happen. The most I have ever had in mine is about 2100lbs plus 5 people. It handled it like a champ except for the RPMs going too low with that prop. This was for surfing only. Couldn't get this on plane for wakeboarding and I think it might be too much weight.

[bellsons]

i took a peace of 3/8 hose, a bucket with lid or a one gallon gas can, and a shop vac.
put the hose into the fill spout of the trans, connect the other end to the bucket(in a fitted hole, i drilled a hole with my knife)or the hose will fit into the breath hole on the back of a gas can. then connect the shop vac to the can/bucket(careful to not push the vac hose too far in or youll have an oily vac.)

Anybody know the best way to drain the ATF out of the velvet drive? Siphon pump maybe? Which fitting or port works best to drain from?

[bellsons]

what fluid/oil should i use for a velvet drive 1018-001

[csuggs]

My gearbox calls out Type F ATF, regular automatic transmission fluid - it's the standard Borg-Warner 1:1 Velvet Drive. I found a 12V transfer pump in the barn over the weekend and will use it to "suck" the oil out of the transmission this weekend.

Installed new speedos last night . . . .

[csuggs]

Made new battery cables using #2 welding cable and copper terminals. Also, I ordered a new starter relay because the problem of the starter "sticking" turned out not to be the switch, but the relay. Ordered new swim platform brackets that are removeable so I can fit in the garage and close the door all the way. All I have to do is install these items, finish rebuilding my bench seat and away we go - hopefully by next weekend! Weather permitting of course . . . . . .

[csuggs]

First trip out yesterday (Sat the 18th) and everything worked just like it's supposed to! Electronic Ignition seems to make a difference starting and accelerating - good addition. The motor ran flawlessly, and Icouldn't find any leaks - makes for a pretty good day! Now if I can just get the rear bench seat back together I'll be finished for the this season. Pics of progress will follow later.

[mapleleaf]

Very cool to hear the boat did what it was supposed to...... I love it when hard work pays off!
Might be a tad jealous to hear you're almost done repairing for the season, I may forget I read that, nothing's ever really finished!!!!!
And my list is still pretty huge!

[Blackntan90]

When it comes to boats, the list is never short!

[csuggs]

OK - maybe I was a bit zealous saying I would be finished for the season - let's scratch that and I'll say I'll be finished with what I have planned to do prior to actually hitting the river to ski! I did finish rebuilding the rear bench seat today and will install one night this week. First scheduled ski outing on Saturday - weather permitting.
Pics are of new removeable style platform brackets. I had to raise the platform about 3/8" to get away from the original mounting holes for the OEM brackets. Jim Jackson sold the brackets to me and machined special aluminum wedges to get the correct angle. Then I reinforced the inside of the transom with an aluminum plate on the other side of the mounting bolts. Hopefully things hold together!
Can't wait for Saturday!:cool:

[Salty87]

nice looking install. we got rained out on sat and windy on sun. needed the rain.

[saltare inverts]

I took out my whole ignition and replaced it with HEI system. It was a great upgrade.

[mapleleaf]

Tasty looking work on that transom Clint... I can't wait to see what Jim send's me......
2 more weeks and the Canuck is going to be let loose on US parts and pricing... Duty Free!!!!!

[csuggs]

I wanted to upload more pics of the platform installation, but for some reason the uploads are failing . . .

[Blackntan90]

Very tasty indeed! I'm jelous of those shiny supratraps! They look alot better than my rubber flaps! Really nice work, and more pic's of the brackets please!

[87SunSportMikeyD]

I am kinda considering raising my swim platform up with spacers a couple inches. It is REALLY underwater when we are weighted down which is most of the time. I'm not even sure two inches would be enough though, sometimes it's really slumped!

[mapleleaf]

Mikey, Sounds like a good idea... only you might end up with a diving platform when you're not weighted down!!!!!
You could throw some 2 X material in there at the dock (weighted down/ and not) and see what it looks like before you bolt it up...Maybe well above the water line would be a good thing.....

[csuggs]

Tryin again with more pics of the swim platform installed. Tonight I have plans to re-install the fuel tank and then put the rear seat back in that I just finished (new wood, old vinyl). After that, a good cleanup will be in order!

[87SunSportMikeyD]

Looks great! I would bump the wake plate down just a lil bit like 1/2". I took a few hours to sand my platform it is kind of a pain on SunSport because of the beveled edges and detail involved there. Sure looks nice though! I bet you could sand yours much nicer than I was able to since you took your platform off.

Did you leave room in the bench seat for a sac? I didn't even use new wood for mine. It had some water damage from wet passengers but overall pretty good. Floor under the seat was solid and not stained.

[mapleleaf]

Hey that platform (and brackets) look great. I found a guy selling new Mastercraft teak platform's on ski it again, in Fenton MI, I guess they're left over from customer's wanting fiberglass. Anyway I pick one up next week and should be able to cut it down for a perfect fit!!! Looking forward to a wood platform forsure!!!!!

[csuggs]

Mikey - I probably had more water damage than you. I really needed to replace the wood under the seat cushions. The floor underneath is not as bad as the seat cushions, but is soft and spongy. It will need to be replaced. An entire rebuild like rickr did on his comp will be needed - just a matter of when. There is not much room for weight under the seat, but there is room between the seat and fuel tank. Either way, that will be easy enough to do later.

Leaf - Thanks for the compliments. Is your existing platform glass? I thought yours would have had teak. I really like mine. It sits up a little higher out of the water than what I would prefer for now, but maybe if I add some weight to the rear it will be just right!

Got the fuel tank and rear seat put back in last night. A word of wisdom here: Don't remove the blower vent rings from the topside of the transom! I spent an extra hour putting the one back together that I removed mostly out of curiosity. You have to "crawl in" under the ski locker and reach your arm between the back side of the ski locker and the transom - not enough room and you can't see what you're doing! And the fuel fill hose was a little more time consuming to install than I had hoped. But it's all back together and looks pretty good. I'll post some more pics after I get the boat out of the garage again this weekend - gonna be sunny and 80 on Friday and Saturday!!!:cool:

[Blackntan90]

You guy's are getting me all worked up about getting on the water- just got a new bildge pump today! I am following your progress as you update us, and learning alot as well! Keep up the good work and lets see some more pic's!

[mapleleaf]

Leaf - Thanks for the compliments. Is your existing platform glass? I thought yours would have had teak. I really like mine. It sits up a little higher out of the water than what I would prefer for now, but maybe if I add some weight to the rear it will be just right!

Yeah mines Glass, it's in 20 year old shape and I'm a finish carpenter, so for me the teak deal is a no brainer, I understand maintenance on it will be regular, but it seems like a nice accent on an older boat.....my pic's of finished work will come late in spring, early summer, but they will come and in my head they already look great!!!!!!!!

[knoble]

I have an 86 sunsport as well! Just about every sunsport i see has a new trailer under it! They carpet and put plywood on the step and fender! Rust, rust, rust!!! I re-did my trailer. Hand made the fenders from regular tandem trailer fender and welded diamond plate on the steps! NO more rust causing plywood and carpet!!

[csuggs]

Knoble - let's see some pics!

[chautauquasun]

I took your advice and purchased the electronic ignition for my boat from Skidim...still on sale at $68.00. The instructions are not the best that come with it but I think I can figure it out. It mentions that once installed to adjust the timing. Is this something that will have to be done after I install it or will it run okay without adjusting the timing? I have never adjusted the timing on a boat or car for that matter so not sure what is involved.

thanks

[csuggs]

After installing mine, it started right away. But we still made an adjustment to the timing. If you've never done it, I would ask a buddy that has a timing light to help you. If you end up doing it yourself, you'll need to beg, borrow or steal a timing light. Then it's just a matter of finding the timing marks on the harmonic balancer and using a 1/2" wrench to loosen the distributor. The correct timing for your motor should be posted on a sticker on one of the valve covers. I'm guessing it is supposed to be 6deg BTC - I set mine 10deg BTC just for fun.

[chautauquasun]

Does increasing the timing give you better ignition and power?

[Salty87]

yes, if your timing is not set correctly. it will run better and start easier if set correctly. depends on how close it is.

[csuggs]

Are you having a problem with the way it runs now?

[chautauquasun]

Are you having a problem with the way it runs now?

Well I am not sure. I bought the boat late last fall and was only able to run it over a weekend. I had problems with it stalling a lot at idle. If I keep the RPMs up I was okay but if it idle for a while it would stall and would then not want to start all that easily.

I bought new plugs, electronic ignition, and new fuel filter to install but have yet to install them and start it up. I am also going to do a serious cleaning of the carb and if I am still having problems will then buy a rebuild kit.

The only reason I ask about the timing is because it says to adjust the timing after installing the electronic ignition. I just wasnt sure if i had to do that for sure. But once I have it installed I know a guy that has a light and I will have him help me set the timing if it is off.

Any ideas on the stalling issue. Do you think some proper maintenance my correct it?

[csuggs]

I also purchased my sunsport late last summer. I believe that maintenance is critical to the life of the motor and the boat for that matter. So, I installed new hoses, belts, fuel filter, fuel lines, battery cables, starter relay, spark plugs, plug wires, rotor, and electronic ignition. Also I installed a new impellar in the raw water pump. I did have a problem last year with starting the motor after it was hot. I no longer have that problem and I believe it was probably the battery cables that made the difference. Ignition timing could also be part of the problem. I've been out three times this season and the motor ran and started perfect. I changed the atarter relay because it would "stick" and keep the starter engaged after the motor was running. Everything else was of a preventive nature.
What I'm getting at is that your problem may not be as easy as one underlying issue. With boats as old as ours, it's likely that there are several things that are all contributing to the problem(s). That is why I decided to do a "clean sweep" so to speak. Hope that helps.

[chautauquasun]

I also purchased my sunsport late last summer. I believe that maintenance is critical to the life of the motor and the boat for that matter. So, I installed new hoses, belts, fuel filter, fuel lines, battery cables, starter relay, spark plugs, plug wires, rotor, and electronic ignition. Also I installed a new impellar in the raw water pump. I did have a problem last year with starting the motor after it was hot. I no longer have that problem and I believe it was probably the battery cables that made the difference. Ignition timing could also be part of the problem. I've been out three times this season and the motor ran and started perfect. I changed the atarter relay because it would "stick" and keep the starter engaged after the motor was running. Everything else was of a preventive nature.
What I'm getting at is that your problem may not be as easy as one underlying issue. With boats as old as ours, it's likely that there are several things that are all contributing to the problem(s). That is why I decided to do a "clean sweep" so to speak. Hope that helps.

Thanks...yes I am going to do the same things. I also installed a new impellar and belts last year as well. I would not have thought of the battery cables. Why would replacing the cables help with starting the engine when it is hot?

Yeah I realized it will be a labor of love...but I knew that when I bought it. I have grown up with boats and many of them rarely ran. I am hoping to do some work and have some fun. And again...I didnt pay much for it...so if I cant get it running I am not out much.

[csuggs]

A hot engine requires more amps to turn over when starting than does a cold engine. Also, a motor with too much timing in it (too far advanced) will require more amps to start. Good cables and ends will transfer more juice to the starter when needed. I made my own using #2 welding cable and crimp-on ends with heat shrink tubing. Just look at your cables. If the ends are corroded or show signs of arcing (they will be pitted), or if they are corroded, you would be best to replace them.
Clint

[Salty87]

if your cables are brittle and make cracking/popping noises when you bend them, they are too old. corrosion gets under the plastic cover. over time the cables can't deliver as much current as they would if they were in good condition. if you get new ones, have them add terminals to the end so you can attach to the battery posts instead of using wing nuts like most are setup.

i recently changed mine, got them here.... http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Custom%20Cable%20Assembly/

i'm very happy with their assembly. my starter never lugs or sounds like it's struggling anymore.

[87SunSportMikeyD]

Hey about the timing, we went with the setting on the motor itself and after a little tweaking we think that is the best setting.

<<Fired the boat up today for the first time this season and re-adjusted the timing. The manual says set to 10deg BTC and the sticker on the engine says 6deg BTC - but it was set a lot slower. We had to advance the timing about 18deg to get it to 10deg BTC which is where we left it. It ran great in the driveway, but we'll have to see how it runs under load.
>>

[87SunSportMikeyD]

I also replaced my battery cables. It really helped a lot, I was surprised. We made sure to solder all connections possible, and crank the cables to the battery as tight as possible with a wrench.

[bellsons]

Anybody know the best way to drain the ATF out of the velvet drive? Siphon pump maybe? Which fitting or port works best to drain from?
get a length of CLEAR hose, 3/8 or 1/2 inch in diameter. a 5 gallon bucket w/ lid and a shop vac.
insert the hose in the fill ports atf/oil put the other end of the hose into the hole that you drilled in the bucket lid.
also, make a hole in that lid to fit your shop vac hose.
then, START SUCKIN'!!

[bellsons]

If you get rid of the points and condensor in your distributor by installing an electronic ignition, you take away the chance for many ignition problems that can result from worn points and poor gap settings. I installed a Pertronix Ignitor that I got from Discount Inboard Marine. I think they still have some on sale in the clearance item section to fit the 351. I paid only about $65 and the regular price is about $150. Check out www.skidim.com and go to the clearance items. Installation is simple - but make sure that you wire the ignition through your ballast resistor which should be located under the plastic housing at the rear of the engine (where the starter solenoid is located). The ballast resistor is a rectangular-shaped white ceramic block with two wires coming out of it. I can take pictures if you want.

I guess I should also mention that the electronic ignition that I got on clearance is for a Prestolite distributor, through 1986 models. Newer models need a different part, which is not on clearance. I got lucky I guess! Anyway, you should have either a Prestolite or Mallory distributor on your boat and it should be indicated on the distributor somewhere.
can a ballast resistor be fried? What does a ballast resistor do,(whats it good for)? I had a short out, it burnt several wires and i fixed, but cant get fire from my coil to my dist.
is it the ignitor, or other? 1984 rider w/ pc454.. pertronix ignitor

[mapleleaf]

What was the deal when your boat continued to turn over after the ignition was turned off.?
I know we've been over this at some point this winter, but i've forgotten. I remember while winterizing I had this problem and had to use the main pwer switch to get it to stop......
Clint I'm bringing my boat to you, sounds like you've got the tune up down pat!!!!!

[csuggs]

What was the deal when your boat continued to turn over after the ignition was turned off.?
I know we've been over this at some point this winter, but i've forgotten. I remember while winterizing I had this problem and had to use the main pwer switch to get it to stop......
Clint I'm bringing my boat to you, sounds like you've got the tune up down pat!!!!!

The problem with the starter staying engaged turned out to be the starter solenoid (or relay). The starter relay is simply a 12V coil used to switch a set of contacts large enough to handle the load incurred when starting the motor. Probably the contacts were arcing from wear and "welding" themselves together - so even though there was no longer any voltage to the coil, the contacts would "stick" in the engaged position. The only way to get them unstuck was to tap the relay housing with a wrench. Once I replaced the relay - no more problems! Hopefully I haven't done any damage to the starter motor prior to the repair! Oh - and thanks for the vote of confidence, but I'm really not that great of a mechanic. I just manage to muddle through!

[csuggs]

can a ballast resistor be fried? What does a ballast resistor do,(whats it good for)? I had a short out, it burnt several wires and i fixed, but cant get fire from my coil to my dist.
is it the ignitor, or other? 1984 rider w/ pc454.. pertronix ignitor

Boy - that's a tough one. With a short like that you could have done damage to any number of things. I think that tracing the ground circuit would be a good place to start - you may have burned up a ground somewhere, and not just a wire, but an internal ground. I would probably use an ohm-meter to check and be sure that you have ground where you are supposed to have ground. As for the ballast resistor, I don't much about them so I can't be sure, but I wouldn't think that would be a problem as much as the electronic ignition. Sometimes a voltage spike or short circuit can fry a circuit board pretty easy. If you have your old set of points you might re-install them just to see if the Pertronix is cooked.
Hope this helps . . . . .

[csuggs]

Tonight after work I was sitting in the boat (in the garage) and lifted the motor box. I found black dust from the belts all over the front of the motor. The belts are new and I know they are correct and aligned. The dust seems to be concentrated near the alternator and so I'm wondering if the alternator pulley is the problem. The belt fits deeper in the alternator pulley and that pulley has some rough edges on the inside.
So here's the question: Can I buy just a replacement pulley for a Motorola alternator for PCM 351, or do I have to replace the entire alternator? Rather opt for the former because the alternator works fine - I think!

[87SunSportMikeyD]

Suggs - I have the same problem with the pullies. I would highly highly advise you keep a spare on the boat and maybe a spare battery, jumper cables, and or emergency car battery booster pack (charged at least weekly). If it goes, you may not notice it until your boat is dead on the water. Happened to me last year. Big pain, took a few hours, a hitchhiked car ride, and a tow from another boat.

People recommended that I remove the pullies and sand blast them, then repaint. I replaced the belt middle of last year, I figure it should have another year left on it. BUT as it wears out, it gets slightly looser. Listen for any belt slippage and tighten as nessecary.

[csuggs]

A few months ago when I started getting the boat ready, we cleaned the motor thoroughly, so I know the dust is from the couple of times I've been out this season. I called skidim and will order a replacement pulley for the alternator (part#R065023). I know what you mean about having spares, Mikey. I think I may order a spare belt to go with the pulley!

[saltare inverts]

Mapleleaf. I want pictures of all the work you are doing. I am working hard my boat also. I keep redoing and fixing everything I find. I gotta stop. But I love it. I just want to make sure I am not the only insane supra owner. I went so far as to take my old fresh air vents, repaint them them put them in interior with LEDs behind them. Looks cool but why did I do that?

[87SunSportMikeyD]

I got the belt from local Napa auto store so they should be widely available. How much for the new pulley? Was it only that one pulley causing damage? I think most of my pullies up there are pitted/causing belt wear.

[csuggs]

Mikey - the pulley from skidim is $25 and change. I will order one next week. I think my other pullies are ok, but this one is eating the belt!

[mapleleaf]

Mapleleaf. I want pictures of all the work you are doing. I am working hard my boat also. I keep redoing and fixing everything I find. I gotta stop. But I love it. I just want to make sure I am not the only insane supra owner. I went so far as to take my old fresh air vents, repaint them them put them in interior with LEDs behind them. Looks cool but why did I do that?

I've backed off for a couple weeks and am only focused on my trailer. It'll be done todya or tomorrow, I'll get some pic's up. Check the time of this post, sick babies rule
I'm still waiting to get the boat home so it's in front of me everyday, but it's the standard list; interior slowly myself, tune up, wet sanding polishing, stereo, shaft seal packing, etc.........
But this is Clint's thread ... I may have to start one for the Conbrio....Can't be stepp'n on any toes!!!!!!!!!