Exhaust

[csuggs]

Anyone know what's with the downturned stainless exhaust pipes I've seen on some Malibu's?

[mapleleaf]

could be something similar to fresh water exhaust???? Just a guess..

[tg0824SSVGG]

You talking about this?

http://www.freshairexhaust.com/

This one isn't stainless, but:

http://www.freshairexhaust.com/images/FAE-obl%20view7-med.jpg

Here is one that is:

http://www.freshairexhaust.com/images/FAE-PS-obl%20view1-med.jpg

From reading in a post on wakeworld discussion forums, the Supra ones are specific,
since our transoms are not "vertical" (or at least some are not) - and you need
one that can clear the plate.

First pic is a Supra, second pic is from the section titled:
American Skier, Calabria, Centurion, Malibu, MasterCraft, MB, Moomba, Sanger, Ski Supreme, Tige'

This is the page for "my" boat, and one of hte options is "polished finish" (but it's not chrome)
http://www.mcssl.com/SecureCart/ViewCart.aspx?sctoken=39627653cecd46aead522472c12a d7e8&mid=5222E90C-6919-4A1C-8F10-3EAF4CDE67EF&bhcp=1

[thescott]

Or do you mean like this?
From an MB

https://forum.supraboats.com/picture.php?albumid=22&pictureid=114

[jeilers1]

Anyone use the FAE system on their Supra?

I was considering one, but a guy I know put one on his 07 moomba xlv and it falls off all the time. It also required trimming of the wake plate for proper clearance.

[csuggs]

Or do you mean like this?
From an MB

https://forum.supraboats.com/picture.php?albumid=22&pictureid=114

Yeah, the dual pipes turned down. Is that for fresh air when you're wake surfing? And what are the extra ports on either side of the exhaust? I don't get it . . . .

[sandm]

I understand they are for looks.
the other holes are ballast drains on the mb. others won't have those.

[saltare inverts]

The first two are to put the exhaust into the water. Less of it goes into the air. Good for surfing.

[csuggs]

And then I'm guessing that the pipe is two-into-one for less drag in the water? The other pipes for looks are cool, but I still like my Supertrapps.

[87SunSportMikeyD]

I have Fresh Air Exhaust ordered at the end of season last year. It's waiting to be installed and tested. :) :) :) Larry from FAE was great and it should be pretty easy for him to make one for another 87 SunSport. $450 though..

[klewis]

It's my understanding that Malibu calls them STE or Silent Tip Exhaust. They are turned down for sound dampening.

[csuggs]

Makes sense to me . . .

[Fman]

You talking about this?

http://www.freshairexhaust.com/

This one isn't stainless, but:

http://www.freshairexhaust.com/images/FAE-obl%20view7-med.jpg

Here is one that is:

http://www.freshairexhaust.com/images/FAE-PS-obl%20view1-med.jpg

From reading in a post on wakeworld discussion forums, the Supra ones are specific,
since our transoms are not "vertical" (or at least some are not) - and you need
one that can clear the plate.

First pic is a Supra, second pic is from the section titled:
American Skier, Calabria, Centurion, Malibu, MasterCraft, MB, Moomba, Sanger, Ski Supreme, Tige'

This is the page for "my" boat, and one of hte options is "polished finish" (but it's not chrome)
http://www.mcssl.com/SecureCart/ViewCart.aspx?sctoken=39627653cecd46aead522472c12a d7e8&mid=5222E90C-6919-4A1C-8F10-3EAF4CDE67EF&bhcp=1


Would this help on the new CAT ETX low emission motors? I have surfed behind my boat and have had no problems with any exhaust fumes.

[87SunSportMikeyD]

FAE lowers noise by 50-60% and CO2 for surfer by 90%. Downturned exhaust tips will not come near to reducing anywhere near that much. I'm not sure about an engine with CAT. I assume it would still help since ALL fumes are prevented PHYSICALLY from reaching the rider since they are under water. CAT is great, I wish I had it so I wouldn't pollute the environment so much. But it is probably still similar to riding behind the bumper of a car.

MB uses a large opening on the transom of boat that fills using only gravity (hole is below surface thus creating pressure). It has an electronic gate that closes and opens the hole on the transom. This is not the same as a downturned exhaust pipe.

I have yet to tried my FAE. Just posted pics on my pride and joy thread. Check their website for video and much more info. Larry if you see this and want to email me I can post for you.

Peace all.

[Fman]

I guess the only downfall is the $458 price tag for a piece of plastic that cost them about $10 to make. I guess I will have to see if we have any problems with fumes, as of yet, we have not noticed any symptoms of CO2 poisioning.

[87SunSportMikeyD]

Not plastic is is solid stainless steel and then anodized or powder coated. The reason it is so expensive is because almost every model and year of boat has exhaust outlets that are in different positions. If he has not done your exact model/year before, you need to take measurements and he has to have your model custom fabricated.

He had to COMPLETLY redesign mine from top to bottom. The pipes are wider apart, and require much more metal than other models. He had to double the number of supports from two to four, and make the flanges that bolt onto the boat bigger. Every single component was customer fabricated for my boat. Same price.

I know it is expensive, but it was a must-have for me. If we are wakesurfing without FAE, the rider cannot hear someone in the boat yelling at them. The smoke is so thick you can see it in pictures. I can post if you'd like. It tastes bad imho and I don't like to surf for a long time while breating that stuff.

Don't forget that since a carburated boat doesn't have a catalytic converter, your exhaust can be 10 times as toxic compared to a car or boat with CAT.

[wotan2525]

Hey Mikey -- How do you feel the carb is setup on your boat? I had really severe smoke/fume issues with mine until I had the carb tuned and the timing where it should be. Since then... I don't have a problem with vapors or smoke while surfing at all. I'm still considering FAE but it would be entirely because of noise -- not because of smoke or vapors.

[ScottnAz]

I couldn't be happier with the installation of a FAE. This has made a big difference in the noise level @ the transom, and is much easier to talk/teach with the rider. Plus the added health benefits, of course ;)

When I ordered the kit, I was sent an order form asking for several measurements on the boat. I don't remember all of the requests, but things like the distance from center to center of the exhaust ports, the measurement from the back of the boat to clearance of the wake plate (both up and down), etc. The kit was custom manufactured, sent out to me with installation instructions, and I installed it without much challenge. I will tell you, though, it's much more difficult getting to the plug.

No buyers remorse, here!!

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n315/woodwrangler/FAE.jpg

[wotan2525]

Scottnaz -- Do you often pull your rear plug? On the newer boats, isn't the low spot still in the bottom (or near the bottom) of the deep-vee? I know on mine the plug I pull is just forward of the engine (direct-drive.)

[csuggs]

ScottnAz - what's the lateral bar running across the bottom of your swim platform? I haven't seen that before.

[wotan2525]

That's the support bar for the FAE.

[ScottnAz]

Scottnaz -- Do you often pull your rear plug? On the newer boats, isn't the low spot still in the bottom (or near the bottom) of the deep-vee? I know on mine the plug I pull is just forward of the engine (direct-drive.)

I only have a rear plug, and need to pull it after every trip out. The low-spot is in fact the deeper part of the V, and I need to pull the plug and park on an incline in order to drain the boat. (one of my only complaints about this boat)


ScottnAz - what's the lateral bar running across the bottom of your swim platform? I haven't seen that before.

That is, indeed, the support bar for the FAE. I believe this lateral bar is needed because of the fiberglass swim platform. The lateral bar bolts to the steel platform support, then I had to bore out an area in the fiberglass platform for the bolt head to recess. I don't think this lateral bar would be required with a wood platform.

I also ordered the FAE with the quick-disconnect fittings because I have to remove the swim platform AND FAE in order to park the boat in the garage. It really only takes a couple minutes to put the boat together for a lake trip.

[87SunSportMikeyD]

Hey Mikey -- How do you feel the carb is setup on your boat? I had really severe smoke/fume issues with mine until I had the carb tuned and the timing where it should be. Since then... I don't have a problem with vapors or smoke while surfing at all. I'm still considering FAE but it would be entirely because of noise -- not because of smoke or vapors.

I did get the timing corrected, that was really easy and it had great instant benefits! We did some tests on the carb using Holley and SkiDIM's websites. The power valve is fine according to tests... For some reason my carb does not have sight floats or external adjustment bolts so I am unable to mess with the float levels without taking the carb apart. Super weird, unless I am being dumb which is possible. :p

Good to know, and thanks for the comment I will keep that in mind. If the new prop doesn't help we're rebuilding the carb. Maybe ourselves, maybe pay for it.

[rludtke]

I have been considering creating my own down turned exhaust extensions for my 1987 TS6M (see my 3d model attached). This design features a mount flange with a hole pattern matching the hole pattern for the base of the Supertrapps, so that the tips would bolt on. They bend 45 degrees to enter the water behind the transom. The design is long to allow me to trim the final lenght to fit. It needs to get sufficiently under the water to prevent the water from being blown out by the exhaust velosity, yet hopefully not protrude beyond the swim step.

I did some testing with plastic sewer pipe, which worked really well, but tended to rotate from turning loads due to my mount method, and at high power they blew the water away from the tips, uncovering them and allowing the exhaust volume to increase back to normal. But up until then, you could easily speak, and listen to the tunes. They really quieted the boat down, and I swear the boat felt like it went faster! I haven't validated this, but when I get the steel parts built, I intend to investigate.

I mounted the elbows by extending the super trapp threaded rod, using a threaded adapterand addional threaded rod. Then I drilled and counterbored a hole in the elbow to allow the rod to penetrate, and screwed a nut and washer down to hold it in place. this worked well, but wouldn't prevent the elbows from rotating, which they would do when the boat turns.

My motivation is to keep carbon monoxide out of the boat, and to reduce the volume. I love the sound of the the stock Supra, but you have to admit it can get a little old. Maybe I am getting old, but I guess I would rather hear the music on my MP3 player, and be able to carry on a conversation.

Anyway, my plan is to get these built and tested this season.

[rludtke]

I did get the timing corrected, that was really easy and it had great instant benefits! We did some tests on the carb using Holley and SkiDIM's websites. The power valve is fine according to tests... For some reason my carb does not have sight floats or external adjustment bolts so I am unable to mess with the float levels without taking the carb apart. Super weird, unless I am being dumb which is possible. :p

Good to know, and thanks for the comment I will keep that in mind. If the new prop doesn't help we're rebuilding the carb. Maybe ourselves, maybe pay for it.

Hi MikeyD,
Holleys require you to remove the float bowl to adjust the float level, but it is pretty easy to do. After I overhauled mine, as mentioned in other posts, I went out to the lake with the boat and a few tools, an empty water bottle, and a roll of paper towels to do some testing.

The initial float setting is to set the bottom of the float to be horizontal when the bowl assembly is turned upside down. This is accomplished by bending the float arm that the needle connects to. Then install the float asssembly to the body.

When out on the water, drive the boat and assess. If it stumbles, you float setting in one or the other or both chambers is to low. Remove one of the lower bolts on the float bowl, and let the fuel drain out the bolt hole into the bottle, then remove the remaining bolts and the float bowl. Make a very small adjustment to allow the float to move higher in relation to the bowl before it closes the needle. Then re-install and test again.

If it smokes or floods, your setting is likely to high.

I know it soounds like a pain, but I got it dialed in less than an hour, and the gaskets seemed to not mind being reassembled several times.

[87SunSportMikeyD]

thanks for that advice. First time out should be soon. We will see if the new prop will succeed in raising the RPMs back into the boats sweet spot. Right now it drives great unweighted, but the engine sputters (blowback) under load. I think RPMS are maybe just too low. If that doesn't work we will rebuild carb and then readjust floats. Thanks I will save your tips for that time!

I have seen people build downturned tips but only little short ones. I'm thinking it's because of how much force is put on them unless you have a support bar. My FAE is build onto a wooden platform and I also have support bars on either side of the FAE. The flanges from Larry are just how you describe to fit right around the exhaust holes once you remove the supratraps.

Here's a pic of mine but the downpipe is turned the wrong way. It has since been corrected.
http://photos.wakeboarder.com/data/3519/medium/Picture_0031.jpg