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View Full Version : Floor/Stringer Rot - Avoidable?



JFP
09-25-2003, 02:03 PM
I recently purchased an '86 Sunsport. I've read a lot on this bulletin board and others about floor and/or stringer rot. I have one small soft spot in front of the spotter's seat. After reading the many postings, I'm envisioning a catastrophe waiting to happen beneath the carpet. My question is, "Is floor/stringer rot inevitable? If the answer is no, then what factors seem to lead to the rot? (I know it is caused by moisture getting into the wood but what factors promote moisture getting to the wood?)" Also, what can be done to discourage or slow down rot (short of wood treatment products)?

Thanks in advance.

billyo
11-11-2003, 04:26 PM
just purchased an 87 supra w rot in back stringers. previous owner let it sink. my experiance to avoid rot is to either buy a boat with no wood (IE all fiberglass and plastic) or keept that sucker dry as a bone. on a hoist, good cover etc. let dry after use etc.

shf49
11-15-2003, 01:15 AM
Anyone who has ever replaced a floor in one of these old Supras I believe, if they are honest, will tell you that the problem is in the way they were built. I have the floor out of my recently purchased 87 Saltare at this time. When I bought the boat the floor seemed fairly good. I removed the seating, to reupholster, and the floor under the rear seats and fuel tank was shot. These boats were designed with no way for water to drain out of the interior. Water can get under the floor and has no way to drain or dry out. I have said to myself many times over the last few weeks, what were they thinking! Bottom line is wood will last in a boat if you can get air to it and drain water off.

If you would like some pictures of whats under the floor let me know. SHF

jleger98
11-17-2003, 04:18 PM
I just bought an 84 Supra Rider this summer. I knew there were small soft-spots near the rear seat when I bought it. When I recently took the rear seat out to look, I found it was all rotten under there. About 3-4 feet in front of the gas tank.

I've torn one side up, and am dealing with the wet foam and partially rotted stringers.

My plan is to replace the rotted section of the stringers, and I am obviously replacing the plywood.

Here is my issue with drilling holes so water can drain to the bilge: If the water can get out, the water can get in if you happen to get water in your bilge. Needless to say I'm a bit hesitant to drill holes. I am thinking more along the lines of some kind of vent to allow the water to evaporate.

shf49, if you've finished your rebuild, I'd appreciate any advice.

jleger98

shf49
11-19-2003, 12:09 AM
I am a long way from finished. You are right on about drains to get the water out. My boat has 2 holes 1 inch or so in diameter in the front bilge between the pump and the ski pole brackets and 2 just like that back about where the propshaft seal is. These holes were filled with foam were they stuffed the underside of the floor. I have channeled out the foam where if water gets in it can drain out through these holes which I have installed drain plugs. I took a 3 inch square peice of 14 gauge aluminum and mounted a plastic removable drain plug to the aluminum and then mounted the aluminum to the holes in the bilge sealing it with 3M 4200. So I have 2 drain plugs on each side of the bilge. No way would I put mine back together and not have some way of getting water out from under the floor. I am not ready to install the plywood yet but I intend to install a 4 inch removable deck plate under both back seats to let it get some airflo out of the water. I feel fortunate that my primary stringers are in good shape. My secondary or smaller srtingers are damaged where they cut the fiberglass and laid the cross braces for the floor which were all soaked and in bad shape. I used a treated 2x6 and laid it next to the stringer and used lag bolts to attach it to the stringer. I treated everything with CPES from the Rot Doctor. I also epoxied the damaged stringer sections. It has been a tedious job ( still is) but I will have a Supra with a solid floor when I am through. (I hope) I would advise treating all your motor mount holes with CPES and some epoxy resin while you are in the repair mode. I have several pictures of the project if any one is interested. SHF49

jleger98
11-19-2003, 01:28 AM
can you email me any pics of the plug holes you have into the bilge?

I just pulled most of the foam out this evening. I would suggest this if you are in the middle of this project. I found that all the foam was water logged at the bottom. I want to get the drain holes built in before I do anything else. Then I'll do the CPES thing, and replace the foam. My stringers are pretty rotten around where the crossmembers were. but are ok elsewhere. My mains are ok for the most part, but I might need to pull the gas tank to have a look at them underneath it. I'm guessing from your previous posts that you have the rear gas tank as well? Did you pull it? How easy or hard was it to get it out, and back in? Mine happens to be full after I winterized the motor.


Here are some pictures to this point:
http://208.42.68.33/boredom/boat.html

shf49
12-01-2003, 11:40 PM
Some members have asked about pictures of the floor repair on my 1987 Saltare. I have a few at this link.

http://community.webshots.com/album/101848449MdRvAT

Salty87
10-05-2008, 07:00 PM
are you referring to the bilge, mark? some do have removable floor sections over the rear bilge