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wotan2525
05-17-2009, 10:20 PM
Just a quick cell phone pic... wanted to document the first day out surfing (58F water temp, brrr!) SS rub rail turned out pretty nice. ;)

87SunSportMikeyD
05-25-2009, 11:53 PM
Sure looks nice!!!!!

wotan2525
06-01-2009, 11:15 AM
Man... what a WINDY weekend! 30MPH winds all weekend kept the riding to a minimum. Found some protection yesterday and some glassy water but the cruiser and racing boats were in the way all over the place. Thought I'd post some pics showing the new rubrail and pop-up cleats... the winds were a good test since none of the cleats pulled out as we stress-tested them with anchor lines. (Quick note... the midship cleats are not reinforced from the factory. They are only attached to thin fiberglass with no backing material or washers. Not worth anything more than holding a bumper, imho.)

How big of a PITA were the pop-up cleats? A HUGE one. Attwood is not the brand to buy as their templates suck and the backing plates (unlike some smart companies) don't serve as a bolt-on guide. Hours and hours spent with a dremel tool and then contortionist type acts to reach the undersides. Glad to be done and really happy how they turned out.

Hematoma
06-01-2009, 04:23 PM
Looks good dude, yea attwood does suck. I wish I could find some pop-ups in black I would be all over them. How hard was that rub rail to install?

wotan2525
06-01-2009, 09:24 PM
It wasn't difficult, it was just time consuming. I can't even tell you how many hours I spent with a putty knife and razor blade to remove the old silicone bead. Then, every single screw (~120 for the rubrail, ~120 for the stainless insert) has to be drilled out... siliconed... screw inserted. Nothing difficult about it... just turned into the project that would not end.

Next up? Either Z5 rack (fingers crossed it will fit) and/or integrated ballast since I have a real rear seat again.

I suppose you guys don't know this.... but my rear bench used to contain 4x12" MA-Audio subs. I took it out at the beginning of the season to try and fix the neon and realized how rotten the box was. It won't be going back in. I've put a 12" Kicker Solobaric under the drivers console (plan to upgrade to a 15" but the box I have won't fit.) So far... you can't hear me from 6 miles away.... but you can really BUMP IT if you're inside the boat.

saltare inverts
06-01-2009, 09:28 PM
I would like pics of your boat. It helps me with ideas. I have two Arc audio 10s right now. Sounds clean but not real water shaking. Want to try different subs or sub. How much do you having pushing you sub?

mapleleaf
06-01-2009, 09:36 PM
Sorry to hear the pop up's were a pain....it was definitely worth it, thanks for the rubrail schooling, I'm doing mine this weekend!!
What kind of silicone did you use???

87SunSportMikeyD
06-01-2009, 09:55 PM
Ballast dude you gotta have good weight for boarding and surfing! I have two more Simer pumps on the way now!! Z5 looks awesome though, or the Monster Cargo.

wotan2525
06-02-2009, 01:09 AM
I would like pics of your boat. It helps me with ideas. I have two Arc audio 10s right now. Sounds clean but not real water shaking. Want to try different subs or sub. How much do you having pushing you sub?

I'll work on some more pics... (sorry to say) the stereo wiring is absolutely embarrassing (as is the battery wiring.) Get's the job done but it's like building a ship in a bottle to have 3 big amps (plus crossovers for the components) all in the compartment under the glovebox. Having 3 batteries and constantly upgrading/changing things hasn't given me the time to add bus-bars or distribution blocks -- so that's a pretty big tangle, too.

Previously, I had my amps in the ski locker but I was just too constantly worried about water coming over the back while surfing. The ski-locker was surprisingly dry but.... not worth the risk with all that $$$ in amps sitting back there.

I was pushing the 4x12" setup with this amp http://www.realmofexcursion.com/ampguts/MA_HK4000D/ -- I did have it running my single 12" but it became really finicky (overheating? moisture? not sure...) so I've swapped it out with an older Kicker DX700. I'm running the components in the boat on an older MA Audio 4x100w and my tower speakers off a PPI 4125 (holy balls are they loud!)

Anything specific you'd like to see? I'm jealous as hell about that tower you scored. Is it back on, yet?

wotan2525
06-02-2009, 01:09 AM
Sorry to hear the pop up's were a pain....it was definitely worth it, thanks for the rubrail schooling, I'm doing mine this weekend!!
What kind of silicone did you use???

Let me know if you have any questions.... I just used clear 100% silicone from home depot. Viper Customs said this was just as good as anything marine specific (and a lot cheaper.)

wotan2525
06-02-2009, 01:10 AM
Ballast dude you gotta have good weight for boarding and surfing! I have two more Simer pumps on the way now!! Z5 looks awesome though, or the Monster Cargo.

Hah! I totally misspoke... I'd go with the monster cargo since I can't afford the Z5.

For ballast... I've got a good setup right now, but I think I'm going to start working on plumbing something in. What did you pay for your simmers? Fleet Farm here has them for $52 for the kit... they had 3 left in stock.... I should have bought them!

mapleleaf
06-02-2009, 06:55 AM
perfect, I'll pickup some indoor/outdoor silicone today, Jim sent me replacement RR so fortunatley I'm only dealing with 120 subrail screw's, none for the insert....That stuff's fragile...I've got it hanging in the shed and man you gottta watch the scuff's and ding's!!
I'll replace the silicone under the subrail and dab each screw hole?? Any tricks on the corner's ??? Heat gun???

87SunSportMikeyD
06-02-2009, 08:12 AM
I paid $75 a simer so thats a great deal. One pump can do a couple sacs easy but it's tough to get the one in the rear ski locker to be linked with any other sac. It's higher in the air and gravity will drain it into a lower sac. I'm putting that one on it's own pump.

wotan2525
06-02-2009, 09:31 AM
perfect, I'll pickup some indoor/outdoor silicone today, Jim sent me replacement RR so fortunatley I'm only dealing with 120 subrail screw's, none for the insert....That stuff's fragile...I've got it hanging in the shed and man you gottta watch the scuff's and ding's!!
I'll replace the silicone under the subrail and dab each screw hole?? Any tricks on the corner's ??? Heat gun???

Yep... heat gun... just be sure that you don't "stretch" it too far in one direction.... I tried to get it a little too tight and ended up stretching it and it wouldn't hold the insert right. youtube taco rubrail install.... it's a 3-part series that shows you everything you need to know!

wotan2525
06-02-2009, 09:37 AM
Mikey -- What if you put a check valve between the two so it could only flow bench -> sack and then on the drain side sucked it out the top of the locker sac. I think a simer will pull enough water to counteract gravity.... right? Need a couple more check valves but.... quick and dirty pic, below. This could work for me, too. I plan on only filling the two rear sacs together.... this could simplify my life! Thoughts?

87SunSportMikeyD
06-02-2009, 12:52 PM
With the pic above, the entire ski locker sac will drain into the bench sac on the floor.

It's not the Simer that is the problem. When you turn the pump off, the bottom sac will become way too full and the top sac will not stay full without its own valve.

I have been posting on WW and searching a lot and the only solution I could find is an anti-syphon valve that is supossed to break up the syphon effect. You put it at the highest point in your line run and when it started to have a low pressure leak it introduces air to break it up. It was about $30 from Bakesonline.com. I am not sure if I will even use it now that I am getting three pumps.

Also there's no way you can drain from the top of the sac. All reversable pump systems sjhould have single fill/drian line at bottom of the sac or it will never drain all the way.

87SunSportMikeyD
06-02-2009, 12:58 PM
Looking at your pic above again.. people say if the fill/drain line for the top sac is run to a loop that is higher than the highest point on the top sac, it will not drain down. However, it will still syphon down EVERY TIME after you turn the pump off unless you route in that anti-syphon valve.

Also note that if you are running more than one sac on a pump, make the TEE as close to the pump as possible. Also make the lengths of hose the same length even if one sac doesn't need it. This will help the sacs to fill at the same RATE so they are full at the same time.

Another solution that you will NEED for our system is flow rate control on each sac. I have a manual valve on each sac. Once I add more pumps I will not need to open or close any sac - however, if I close a small sac 20% it should finish filling at the same time as a larger sac.

I am going out this afternoon and I will be doing some testing. Testing what heights to make my overflows. Testing what happens when I link different sacs together.

wotan2525
06-02-2009, 03:35 PM
Looking at your pic above again.. people say if the fill/drain line for the top sac is run to a loop that is higher than the highest point on the top sac, it will not drain down. However, it will still syphon down EVERY TIME after you turn the pump off unless you route in that anti-syphon valve.

Also note that if you are running more than one sac on a pump, make the TEE as close to the pump as possible. Also make the lengths of hose the same length even if one sac doesn't need it. This will help the sacs to fill at the same RATE so they are full at the same time.

Another solution that you will NEED for our system is flow rate control on each sac. I have a manual valve on each sac. Once I add more pumps I will not need to open or close any sac - however, if I close a small sac 20% it should finish filling at the same time as a larger sac.

I am going out this afternoon and I will be doing some testing. Testing what heights to make my overflows. Testing what happens when I link different sacs together.

Makes sense. I'm just going to go with 3 pumps to keep it easy and try to avoid any kind of surprises. I'll never run the bags less than all-the-way full and plan on having the pumps on indivual switches so if they get done at different times, I don't really care. I will keep the lines/t's the way you recommend though.... that makes sense.

Where did you find check valves? There has to be a cheaper solution than the ones posted at WW for almost $20/each. My brother runs a landscape/sprinkler company.... I'm going to check with him.

Hematoma
06-02-2009, 05:43 PM
What ever you do dont buy back flow/check valves from Hore depot. They dont work for chit. I had to put my valves back on while at the river cuz water was leaking out my bags. Was'nt fun. :x

87SunSportMikeyD
06-03-2009, 08:58 AM
hematoma what specific ones at depot? They need to be swing check valves. I have the brass ones right now. Haven't used them yet but they do seal well. $4/ea. My local wake dealer had plastic ones for $20/ea. Ouch.

Hematoma
06-03-2009, 09:19 AM
hematoma what specific ones at depot? They need to be swing check valves. I have the brass ones right now. Haven't used them yet but they do seal well. $4/ea. My local wake dealer had plastic ones for $20/ea. Ouch.
I cant remember, I did get on Lowes home improvments website and found some ball check valves for 6 dollars. They take 2 psi to open so I'm gonna pick them up today. I figure my pumps should be able to produce 2 psi of pressure. I know this ballest has been an on going PITA, seems like everytime I take the boat out I find an improvment I can make to the system, it works great but not perfect.

Hematoma
06-03-2009, 09:23 AM
Hey Mikey after thinking about it. I think I bought the wrong things the first go around. Doh no wonder they didnt work.:( Anyways gonna try the ones I listed above today and reroute some hoses.

wotan2525
06-03-2009, 11:57 AM
Hematoma -- Everything I've been reading says you want to avoid those ball valves and go with the swing ones. 2psi doesn't sound like much to me, though. If they work.... let us know!

87SunSportMikeyD
06-03-2009, 12:15 PM
No don't get any spring or ball check valve that takes ANY PSI to open!!! These are just your overflows and they won't close when you are draining, then they won't drain flat.

Swing check valves only! The ones that I got are brass swing checks and I read they are OEM on older Nautique systems. Sounds good to me!

Hematoma
06-03-2009, 03:39 PM
Lol I dont have a problem with my vents/overflows draining the bags. My overflows are ran in a way that they dont cause any syphon effect. I ended up buying 12.00 brass check valves that have a spring and a rubber grommet that keeps water from backing up and out my fills and emptys. I got pics coming in my O.G. thread.

wotan2525
06-09-2009, 08:16 PM
Alright.... boat is super dirty and has a lot of "tree-junk" in it. The vinyl is actually in really clean shape but I wanted to post up some pics. Obviously... the battery box is sort of a disaster.... I've got a friend who owes me that is supposed to come clean it up one of these days but I'm sort of an out-of-sight out-of-mind and function over fashion in these hidden areas. You can see my on-board charger and blue-sea add-a-battery.

wotan2525
06-09-2009, 08:21 PM
And here's a few more.... bench seat was just finished last weekend. (I should take a picture of what used to be there.)

Not the best pictures of the surf wake (angle makes it look sort of small) but it's waist high and in the second picture he is pretty much as far back as you can go while still having enough push to catch up.

wotan2525
06-09-2009, 08:23 PM
By my estimation, once I get my ballast plumbed in I should have ~800-900lbs in back and ~400 up front. All hidden. All on switches. And still have enough storage for anchors, orange-vests, fire extinguisher, dock lines and my throwable.

Salty87
06-09-2009, 08:36 PM
that looks great. did you do the vinyl? nice job either way.

i was just telling saltare inverts that i like his bench and now you've got one.

i'm starting to get a little vinyl envy.

edit: looked at the pics again. is it me or does the bench convert into a large sunpad?

Hematoma
06-09-2009, 09:07 PM
Nice boat you got Wotan, I wish I could have found a Salty when I was lookin. Maybe that will be my next O.G. project.

wotan2525
06-09-2009, 10:00 PM
Nope, doesn't convert -- but I wish it did. That would be fantastic. The vinyl in this boat was just done when I purchased it 6 years ago. There is a little wear on it now but it's still pretty decent and will look even better after a few warm weekends in the sun.

The bench seat was just like that before except there was 4x12" subs and neon underneath it and now I've converted it into a hollow spot for a fat-sac.

mapleleaf
06-09-2009, 10:04 PM
wo wo wo, that boat looks good clean or dirty, my vinyl's a disgrace.....

saltare inverts
06-09-2009, 10:24 PM
Wotan, nice pics. Your boat looks clean. I noticed I have a built in cooler were you have a walk through to the front area. Funny difference. Dont worry Salty you can borrow my machine soon. You have helped me out with answers so much atleast I can do is loan you a sewing machine. I am thinking of taking upholstery classes. Then I can fix one thing Viper customs doesnt do, vinyl.

87SunSportMikeyD
06-10-2009, 12:20 AM
Oh heck yes that is good stuff there! Is that a Titan tower? Looks so good I would love to see the whole boat with tower. The rear bench seat looks great it looks like a ton of space under it. Seems like they made storage portion as big as possible and the backrests smaller. Great for ballast. Do you put ballast in the rear ski locker too?

Surf wave looks good, do you drive straight or slight turn? Sometimes my bigger riders need slight turn but best wave I find is straight.

wotan2525
06-10-2009, 03:35 AM
I know that this is AT LEAST the third floor my boat has had in it.... so... it may have had a cooler from the factory. It is a walk-through right now, though. I almost always put my cooler in that space, though. I have one that fits there PERFECTLY (though not as perfect as Saltare Inverts.)

I always thought my tower was a homerolled job because it is SOOOO BIG. It is very similar to the titan tower but it seems larger. Look at the first page.... isn't there a picture of the entire boat?

I'll have ballast in the rear locker, too. Right now I have nothing in either of those spaces. I drive straight for regular and a slight turn for goofy riders. You can see how much weight I have though (2100lbs in the rear corner, human ballast in front.)

87SunSportMikeyD
06-10-2009, 08:40 AM
Have you tried one straight across the back and then one on the port side floor along the motor? It might help the wave be more vertical.

wotan2525
06-10-2009, 09:36 AM
If I put all the weight on the port side the wave does get really vertical (and really big.) But... it's not very long. The best setup I've actually come across yet is to have the weight pretty evenly distributed port -> starboard with extra human ballast on the port side. I'm typically out with 5-7 people so it's pretty easy to change up the ballast to tweak it. ;)

87SunSportMikeyD
06-10-2009, 02:17 PM
Yeah that's pretty much what I find too. Weight in the rear evenly distributed port -> starboard is the foundation (about a 650lb sac worth), but then I put another 650lb sac on the port rear floor and one more 400lb sac in the port open bow (but not all the way up to the nose - in fact the opposite as far back as it can go).

saltare inverts
06-11-2009, 12:08 AM
Why so far back? on nose sac.

87SunSportMikeyD
06-11-2009, 09:21 AM
Well I want the boat to list or lean a lot so you want it in the widest part of the boat possible. I also don't want to sink the nose TOO much - this helps sink the whole boat a bit more and not apply quite so much leverage to the nose.

It is pretty easy for me to weight the front too much in my boat, so I have to try and make up for that.

saltare inverts
06-11-2009, 10:17 AM
Does it change bow rise at all. Hate to scoop water. How long does it take you to plane WakeMikey with the weight you use?

wotan2525
06-11-2009, 01:03 PM
I don't think i can plane when I'm weighted for surfing. It FOR SURE helps you to plane out to have weight as far forward as possible when weighted for wakeboarding.

Last night the wake was awesome.... 750lb behind engine, 750lb port, 750lb starboard, ~400lbs in the bow. This allows us to surf both regular and goofy depending on where people sit. 2 people in the back port + 2 people on front port for regular. Opposite for goofy. Regular wake has the slightest of rudder turn.... goofy has a lot more so.

Of course... while I was riding.... couldn't help but notice that the rub-rail was still a good 6-8" out of the water.... which means..... MORE WEIGHT!!

mapleleaf
06-12-2009, 06:33 AM
I don't think i can plane when I'm weighted for surfing. It FOR SURE helps you to plane out to have weight as far forward as possible when weighted for wakeboarding.

Last night the wake was awesome.... 750lb behind engine, 750lb port, 750lb starboard, ~400lbs in the bow. This allows us to surf both regular and goofy depending on where people sit. 2 people in the back port + 2 people on front port for regular. Opposite for goofy. Regular wake has the slightest of rudder turn.... goofy has a lot more so.

Of course... while I was riding.... couldn't help but notice that the rub-rail was still a good 6-8" out of the water.... which means..... MORE WEIGHT!!

I dont't think my RR is 6-8 inches out of the water with no weight!!!!!

Hematoma
06-12-2009, 08:15 AM
I
750lb behind engine, 750lb port, 750lb starboard, ~400lbs in the bow.I think you might want to add a little more. lol;)

wotan2525
06-12-2009, 11:42 AM
I dont't think my RR is 6-8 inches out of the water with no weight!!!!!

Conbrio has a pretty low freeboard. Saltare is a TANK. ;)

87SunSportMikeyD
06-12-2009, 10:43 PM
Well for surfing you can't have too much weight in the bow or the wave won't be tall enough. About 300 is all I put in the bow for surfing. Maybe 4-500 for wakeboarding. It doesn't really bother the nose at all. The Salts and Suns have such a deep bow vee. When you sink the bow in it helps the wake size but you still have to weight it 60back/40front (at least in the Suns) or else the wave gets really crappy.

There is really no threat of taking water over the bow even when weighted. I mean it's POSSIBLE to do, but not very easy at all. When you are weighted real good for surfing it is possible to take water over the back if you stop too quickly but doesn't happen much.

Once you start to put a lot of weight in, it helps the wake/wave shape to put the wake plate down just a tad. Many people say Salts are weighted totally different from Suns tho...

wotan2525
07-28-2009, 12:09 AM
Unfortunately, not good news..... Oil leak has gotten really bad and I think I'm looking at pulling the engine (AGAIN!) My best guess is a bad rear main seal... there's oil everywhere and I replaced the valve covers which leaked slightly.... it's only wet on the bottom end so it's either rear main, oil plug (it's tight) or oil pan gasket.

Damn.

wotan2525
08-03-2009, 04:09 PM
The water was MAD choppy (this was a saturday on a major powerboat through-fare) and the camera wasn't in a good place to show off the wave.... but..... I still have to brag.

Here's my 220lb ass almost sticking a 360 on a Walzer 56"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRNTgtI_0WA

87SunSportMikeyD
08-03-2009, 06:14 PM
Looks really good! Is that with both sides weighted? I am just curious I have always weight the rear and one side, not rear and both sides.

wotan2525
08-04-2009, 12:02 AM
That's with 2100lbs all in one corner. I still don't have my bags installed in my ski locker or under my rear seat so my current setup is 700lb bag behind the engine, 700lb bag on the side of the engine and a 700lb bag going diaganol across those two.

Yeah.... it sits pretty damn low. Just got back... still can't ride out of that 360. Grrr!

wotan2525
08-04-2009, 12:05 AM
That's with 2100lbs all in one corner. I still don't have my bags installed in my ski locker or under my rear seat so my current setup is 700lb bag behind the engine, 700lb bag on the side of the engine and a 700lb bag going diaganol across those two.

Yeah.... it sits pretty damn low. Just got back... still can't ride out of that 360. Grrr!

87SunSportMikeyD
08-04-2009, 10:52 AM
Have you done them with the handle? Pull yourself back into the pocket and keep trying 'em but without falling. For me the trick was to accel from back to front of pocket, drag the rear hand, then turn the nose slow and ride right up the wave. The goal is kind of to stall out on top the wave when you are backwards, then you turn the nose back down the wave and ride right out of it. Just like pumping out of any regular big turn up the wave.


That is a lot of weight! The most we ever use is about 1600lbs.

wotan2525
08-04-2009, 11:34 AM
I can do them with the handle all day.... That's so weird that you say that about your back hand... my roomie and I are in an arms race to see who can get them down first (he's completely gifted when it comes to board sports and he's irritated that I'm a better surfer than he is.... he's a 20x better wakeboarder, though.) Anyway.... I use my front hand to spin around and he's trying to use his back hand.... most of the youtube clips I've seen are using the front hand. I think next time out I'm going to try with my Oogle as it has a lot more push and may help me pump back into the pocket.

87SunSportMikeyD
08-05-2009, 12:05 PM
I know it's my front hand cause that's where I hold the handle if I use it. Check this video, click on the surf 360 link: http://www.howtowakesurf.com/Trick_List.jsp

wotan2525
06-01-2011, 11:04 AM
Just wanted to make sure I kept this thread updated with the new cover, cargo bimini and the new tower speaker setup.....

http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/2387/cimg0520h.jpg

sybrmike
06-01-2011, 03:06 PM
Don't forget the FAE & "directional" transom light? Seriously, you've brought her a long way... Congrats!

wotan2525
06-01-2011, 03:21 PM
Don't forget the FAE & "directional" transom light? Seriously, you've brought her a long way... Congrats!

Hah! The "directional" transom light is just waiting for the new LED to go in.....

Ptownkid
06-01-2011, 05:03 PM
I think you need a few more tower speakers, lol. Looks great!

haugy
06-01-2011, 05:05 PM
Needs more tower speakers......:D What are ya, deaf????

Boat looks good. Random question, do your boat guides on the back of the trailer stick way out? Mine do, even though the mount and the poles are straight, they stick out a good bit. I thought about using a bender and putting a small curve in them to bring them in, but didn't know if I'd be able to get the boat on and off then.

Edit: Damnit, too slow. :D:D

wotan2525
06-01-2011, 05:41 PM
Needs more tower speakers......:D What are ya, deaf????

Boat looks good. Random question, do your boat guides on the back of the trailer stick way out? Mine do, even though the mount and the poles are straight, they stick out a good bit. I thought about using a bender and putting a small curve in them to bring them in, but didn't know if I'd be able to get the boat on and off then.

Edit: Damnit, too slow. :D:D

No -- I would say with the pads on the guide-posts they only sit about 2-3" inches from the boat. They do their job and guide the boat straight on. I've never had much of a problem getting the boat on the trailer straight and I power-load it right on. No rear tie-downs or any other messing around, just drive her on and latch the strap.

Okie Boarder
06-02-2011, 09:33 AM
Just an FYI on the guide posts...mine are the same way. They "seem" like they stick out quite a ways, but when the boat is on the trailer, they aren't too far away.

wotan2525
06-06-2011, 11:50 PM
I just wanted to tease how the wetsanding worked out. I'm pretty excited!

http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/9041/dscn0440y.jpg

sybrmike
06-07-2011, 10:21 AM
Niiiice! I'd walk outside every morning & use that as a mirror to shave.

Okie Boarder
06-07-2011, 01:18 PM
Looks really good!!!!

wotan2525
05-18-2012, 10:35 PM
Spring upgrades:

Rebuilt rudder packing.
5200 + Through-bolted all swim deck bolts (which have always leaked.)
New fuel sender.
Re-wired speakers (had an issue in storage where my tower wiring was.... well.... destroyed.)

And....

New trailer wheels and tires!

Before.
http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu79/rbosworth/20120518_182242.jpg
After.
http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu79/rbosworth/20120518_182220.jpg

Okie Boarder
05-22-2012, 02:26 PM
Those look purty gooood!

wotan2525
05-25-2012, 10:39 AM
Another quick update on spring projects:

After pulling the gas tank I found some really poor fiberglass work underneath it. Floor is still very solid but there was evidence of some delamination. Spent some time with a die-grinder and layed up a gallon of resin and 20 sqft of mat. Should now be better than new.

Also built and carpeted a new floor panel that sits right behind the engine. The original one that I built was a single layer of 1/2" -- I've noticed that most people that get into the boat from the back jump directly on to this board and over time it has begun to sag. The new board is two layers of 3/4" that was then epoxy coated and carpeted. Should last until the end of time.

Replaced one of my drivers seat bases. Forget who on the forum sent me their bases and slide mechanisms but -- THANK YOU! Finally got them put on and now the seat is rock solid again. Feels good since one of the slide mechanisms was broken and I had just become used to feeling like I was in a rocking chair.

Also removed my batteries (yet again.) Pulled the dead ProSport 20 3-bank charger and installed a Noco Genius 2-bank. The Noco is in a waterproof enclosure and seems much more ruggedly built than the ProSport. Fingers crossed it will last more than a few years.

Also installed new fuel vent. This unit from attwood looks much nicer than the dated looking stock one: http://www.boatmania.com/attwood-flush-mount-fuel-vent.html -- 10 minute project to dremel out a larger opening, coat with 4200 and install.

Dropped off cooler (converted ski locker) to be rhino lined. A little pricier than I had hoped for, but they were going to fix some of the broken pieces and it should look brand new (and last forever) for $200. Opted to pay slightly more for grey colored product than I would have had to pay for black. Is already ready to be picked up.

Dropped off both props for a refreshing. Not thrilled to be paying $100+/each for them but what are you going to do.

Still on this springs to-do list: Reinstall gas tank, new fuel lines, reinstall cooler, thorough interior cleaning, exterior wash and wax, install re-man'd prop, figure out why one of my tower speakers isn't working and then party party surf surf!

Slightly relieved that Sat/Sun will be rain-outs here for memorial day. The boat probably would not have been ready. Should be ready for Memorial Day for sure but the weather is looking fairly spotty at this point. :(

Okie Boarder
05-25-2012, 02:57 PM
Sounds like you're making progress. You have one tower speaker just not working at all?

wotan2525
05-26-2012, 05:44 PM
Sounds like you're making progress. You have one tower speaker just not working at all?

Yep. Must be a lose connection as they are wired together in the can. I'm thinking that one of the wires must have fallen off the actual speaker terminal inside the can. Hopefully I don't have a voice coil that has come detached (although, I'm sure Kicker will have no problem warrantying it.)

wotan2525
09-06-2012, 12:00 AM
I only tow my trailer 1 mile (round-trip). Rarely does it travel more than 150 miles in a season. It's very light-duty for it.

I've decided to take it about 500 miles round-trip this weekend. Decided to give the trailer some effort to do everything we can to prevent a break-down. No photos, but it was interesting to see my girlfriend with the mechanics gloves on using an impact wrench on rusty leaf spring bolts. Here are the items we knocked out this evening:

New bearings, races, seals all the way around. Obviously new grease. Gave everything a good cleaning. Cleaned up the bearing buddies and basically everything from the spindles out is new.

Bled the brakes. New fluid. Might have a small leak somewhere, but should be good to go for this trip.

New leaf springs. I've always had an issue with uneven wear on the inside of the tires. I'm hoping that these at least help correct it. The bushings in the old leaf springs had worn through, the new ones are shiny. Hopefully it makes a difference?

Checked all the lighting and fixed the grounds on a couple of rear marker lights. Safety first, right?

Should be picking up some used tires tomorrow. The ones on there are worn on the inside. I think they should last for 500 miles but as long as the wheels are off, I figured I'd try to swap them out with some with more even wear.

I did all of the brakes last year (including new master cylinder and coupler) and all new wiring LEDs about 4 years ago. Pretty much running out of things to work on!!

Fingers crossed that she makes it all without incident!

tg0824SSVGG
09-08-2012, 10:05 AM
Wow! Productive evening. Sounds great


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

jasun
09-08-2012, 01:17 PM
where ya heading!?

wotan2525
09-09-2012, 11:24 PM
Spent the weekend at Gull Lake in Nisswa, MN. It's a 15 mile long lake with at least 10 other lakes that are connected via channels. Our friends have a family cabin that was one of the first ones on it, built in 1929. I used to go there as a kid but haven't been there in about 15 years. Trailer made it without issue and we had an absolute blast!

Friend towed it up with his 2012 Toyota Tundra 5.7 and I was pretty impressed with how that truck towed. I just didn't trust my 1992 F-250 to make it. ;)

http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu79/rbosworth/20120909_105140.jpg

Surfed for at least 3 hours today. No mechanical break-downs and the boat worked splendidly. Perfect way to (almost) end the season. ;)

Jetlink
09-09-2012, 11:58 PM
Nisswa, dangerous place if you go with your wife or g/f...too many shops. We have family friends that have a few cabins on the White Fish chain on Cross Lake. Love it up there.

wotan2525
07-17-2014, 11:04 AM
Made it out surfing for the first time this year (high-water, no-wake rules have been in effect.) Surfed GREAT for about 90 minutes.... Had 8 people in the boat and the wave was really spectacular. Girlfriend was idling it around to pick me up and the engine died. Really strange because that has never happened with it warm, before. Was able to get it started back up but it wasn't easy and the engine didn't sound happy. It was running really rough and was making a "knocking" sound periodically. Oil level was spot on and oil looks clean. Looks like I get to start tearing into the top end and see what I can find.....

Bummer!!

wotan2525
07-23-2014, 08:58 AM
Made it out surfing for the first time this year (high-water, no-wake rules have been in effect.) Surfed GREAT for about 90 minutes.... Had 8 people in the boat and the wave was really spectacular. Girlfriend was idling it around to pick me up and the engine died. Really strange because that has never happened with it warm, before. Was able to get it started back up but it wasn't easy and the engine didn't sound happy. It was running really rough and was making a "knocking" sound periodically. Oil level was spot on and oil looks clean. Looks like I get to start tearing into the top end and see what I can find.....

Bummer!!

Talked to an engine guy and he said to cut open the oil filter and see how much metal was inside. There was no metal inside -- so the chances I spun a rod bearing seem pretty low. Changed out the oil, changed the fuel/water separator, checked the timing, added some fresh gas and some sea-foam and ran it hard on sunday. No problems to report. Wahoooo!