Can I Use This Alternator???

[87SunSportMikeyD]

My alternator is no good so we are looking for replacements.

SkiDIM.com recommended this alt for $175
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RA097006

We think switching to a more comon (GM 10SI) alternation is better. Dad has a 10SI in the shop and the case appears to be a direct fit. There are many available on ebay that are marine/coast guard approved - lots of them in Mercury stern drives. this item number appears to be the best price ($60) with shipping of $12.00.

We are looking at this one:
ebay item 360161752321 or linked:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_rdc=1&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.com%3A80%2F%3F_from%3DR4 0%26_trksid%3Dp3907.m38.l1313%26_nkw%3D36016175232 1%2B%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&item=360161752321&viewitem=

Model name (for after the ebay link expires)
Alternator - Delco 10SI Series
63 Amp, 12 Volt, CW, 1-Groove Pulley

Used On:
Mercury Mercruiser 4, 6, 8-Cyl. Marine Engines
Replaces:
Delco 1100576, 577
1102393, 496
1105478
Mercury Marine 69729, 56045, 59755
Lester Nos:
7152
Notes:
Completely Remanufactured , New Bearings, New Brusholder Assy, New Rectifier, New Self Exciting Regulator
Comes With New Coast Guard Approved Screens & Cover
Replaces: Arco# 20102
1 Year Warranty




O'Reilly could get one (10SI marine) in two working days but at $155.00.


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We are also having an issue with our electronic ignition and may have to replace it. Inside the rotor is a cap with magnets. The sleeve that holds the magnets in came unglued and we are not getting spark on a few cylinders.

New electronic ignition is on sale at SkiDIM for $70
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RP173071A

We sent Pertronix an email to see if we can get a new magnet sleeve - will need to wait for a reply.

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Thanks for your help, here's a sweet pic of the 87 SunSport surf wave. :) :)

http://photos.wakeboarder.com/data/3508/6080141.jpg

[DKJBama92Mariah]

If it truly is a marine unit and you can make it fit, then I see no reason why not. Keep in mind when buying parts though; most times you do get what you pay for.

[knoble]

Do not use the one wire. You wiring is not set up for it and you will loose your ammeter gauge with that. Call Arco. They specialize in marine electrics and are very helpful. I am almost positive that is what the second one is! Tell them what you have and your needs and they can set you up with a bolt on alternator!!

[michael hunter]

Mikey
Is there a rebuilder in your area you can take your old alt to and have it rebuilt?
The reason I never converted my Ign to electronic is because of the problem you have
now. I dont like aftermarket products I usually will keep it stock . The points are cheap
and available everywhere.

[saltare inverts]

I skipped petronix also, I went with new GM HEI. Replaced whole ignition. What a great decision. I agree on the alternator you get what you pay for.

[87SunSportMikeyD]

It is running really smooth with the points on lol I didn't expect that. Thanks again to my dad who is a wealth of knowledge.

knoble thanks for that tip I think that might be the dealbreaker. Thanks for the Arco plug too good idea.

Skidim says my old alt is pretty obsolete so I am thinking that will be a more reliable long term solution. Thanks everyone.

[DKJBama92Mariah]

Mikey, I'm not sure I'd be so quick to pass judgment on the mando alternator. Yes it is an old design, but so is that GM alt. Do you know if the alt you are replacing is the original one. If so, 22 years is not exactly a bad lifespan in a marine environment.

Irregardless, As long as the alternator case isn't cracked, I see no reason to buy new instead of getting it rebuilt locally. The case and the field coils are really the only nonreplacable parts.

I am stating all this under the assumption that your current dead alt is an internally regulated unit.

[wotan2525]

I hate to be the voice to disagree but I bought a db electrical alternator off of ebay to replace my stock one. 165 amp (I think) vs the stock 45 amp. It came with a dyno-graphy type sheet that showed what amps it made at what RPM..... sure... maybe it was BS... but it wasn't expensive and it has worked GREAT for me. Batteries charge fast and my electrical system is happy. It's a one-wire and my electrical gauge still works. I have no complaints. It was cheaper than having mine rebuilt by the local shop.

[jasonba1]

I bought a 90 amp alt. from rareelectrical.com for 70.00 bucks and so far have been very happy with it. I took my old alt to several shops and they couldnt beef it up and the old 55 amp just wasnt cutting it anymore. I was very skeptical of the price but so far so good been using it about 2 months and no problems at all yet

[87SunSportMikeyD]

Hey guys thanks again. The model that is currently in the boat and not working DOES have an external regulator. So we are not really keen on keeping that one. I am willing to spend some money to make sure we have reliable and quick charging power.

I guess I didn't know that you guys were upgrading to alts that produce more amps. I thought that was only for guys with multiple amps and large speaker setups. I have one 5ch amp that runs about 800watts. This powers cabin speakers 6.5" x4, Kicker KMT6 tower speakers (2 pods, 3 speakers in each pod), and one 12" sub. The single amp pushes 125watts per channel x4 + a 300watt sub channel.

Wotan how much was your alt? Was it marine?

Jason what model is your boat again? Yours sounds like a good deal with double the amps of the original alt. I'm not sure I need one that is super crazy powerful. Thanks!

[jasonba1]

I have a 92 comp. I upgraded because I am running a total of 1500 watts from 2 amps plus I have a lot of leds and tower lights. So far espicaly for the money it has been great, plus the guys I have called on the phone were great to work with and shipping was really quick Just call and give them your old part number and they have a few different options on how big you want

[wotan2525]

Mikey -- Here is the unit that I went with. I think it will work for you (there's also a 105amp version that is only $70.)

http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/Items/10si-marine%20new%20-140%20amp?sck=6745929&caSKU=10si-marine%20new%20-140%20amp&caTitle=NEW%20140%2b%20Amp%20Delco%20Marine%20Alte rnator%20Mercruiser%20Volvo%20Penta%201-Wire

[87SunSportMikeyD]

Thanks a ton guys!!!

Thinking of this one now that Woton sugessted:
http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/Items/10si-marine%20new?sck=6745929&caSKU=10si-marine%20new&caTitle=NEW%20105%20Amp%20Delco%20Marine%20Alterna tor%20Mercruiser%201-Wire

[FecalFajita]

Well it looks like my electrical problems are stemming from my old as hell alternator. Funny that it's failing at the exact same time as yours Mikey...Maybe I missed it in this thread, but should I be looking for a one wire alt?

[saltare inverts]

Mine just quit also. What is going on. I took mine out and saw it had a duralast sticker on it. Not marine grade and piece of crap. I ordered a 140amp(lot better than stock 63 amp) marine grade alt from DB electric. 139 bucks, not bad.

[87SunSportMikeyD]

Everyone let me know if you're buying ONE-WIRE alts as replacements or not PLEASE!!!!!!

[wotan2525]

Why would you not go with the one-wire?? I think it's a no brainer. If it can simplify the electrical system and reduce the amount of things that can go bad, why wouldn't you??

[87SunSportMikeyD]

Woton - Thanks for the reassurance. Just making sure.

Here's a good thread from WW http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/544973.html

Excerpt by Ron of DB Elec (EDITED BY ME) - "Your alternator has an external regulator. If you have a charge light on the dash, you need a 3 wire set up to turn the light out on the dash. If you have a voltage gauge then you can use the 1 wire set up 10 si."

Also from Ron, good info: "The reason the 10 si is used in the place of the OE alternator is because you CANNOT go up in amperage with the OE housings because of size limitations and you can with a 10 SI because there is more room to add winding to the stator and still be able to mount in the OE location. Yes, the 10 si is old technology, but the 10SI AC SE is NOT. The 10 si ac se picks up from the ac side of the diode plate for instance energizeing."

[wotan2525]

Is there any of these old boats that don't have warning lights on the dash? I know I have a gas light (gas gauge doesn't work) a voltage light (voltage gauge works fine) and an oil pressure light (gauge works good and shows correct pressure.)

I just always assumed everyone had these problems.

[jasonba1]

rareelectrical.com reccomended the 3 wire setup for my boat , so thats what I went with

[87SunSportMikeyD]

woton i was actually thinking he meant that some boats might not have any voltage guage at all, but just a light on the dash. I also have four warning lights but all my original guages work fine. I wouldn't want a light to stop working though.... Aww screw it I am calling them now

[87SunSportMikeyD]

Yeah I should've just called them a long time ago lol. Ron at DB says either alt will work fine. But if you have a volt guage AND a light, you want the three wire to make both work. He said if you do get the one wire, the light will stay on all the time, so you should just disconnect it. But the guage will work fine. So there we go, getting the three wire. Thanks all!!!!!