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techsledder
08-20-2009, 01:58 PM
So it turns out the riser the engine cover sits on and is supported by is on its way out (top edge rotting apart) after 19 years of service on my '90 Sunsport. The carpet is still good and I have saved that after removing about 1001 staples. Has anyone rebuilt this part for their boat? I am considering using red cedar; is that okay? Also, what size staples do you use for reapplying the carpet? The ones I took out are very tiny. I think they may have been 22 or 23ga wire staples. I have access to an 18ga stapler. Will that work with out the staples showing through? Or should I go and buy a 22-23ga stapler?

agetech
08-20-2009, 04:30 PM
I rebuilt the wood base for my engine cover, the original was rotted, but I made the new base 1" higher to clear the Edelbrock manifold I installed. I used pine with Gorrilla Glue and deck screws to put it together. Used the old one for a pattern. Cover it with a couple coats of thinned epoxy and it will last for a long time.
I have a cheapo Craftsman air stapler and I found some stainless steel staples online to fit it. You can also glue the carpet to the base.

techsledder
08-20-2009, 04:56 PM
Yeah, I put the caliper to the one staple I saved from the project last evening and it’s a 22ga staple coming in near 0.025” dia. It’s also a 3/8” X 3/8” profile. I ‘m going to investigate the 18ga stapler on some of the carpet tonight. I am also thinking of doing the ‘ol pine lumber painted with some oil based primer/paint or I like your suggestion of thinned epoxy also. Thanks for the input!

mapleleaf
08-20-2009, 06:06 PM
I jsut did this in the spring and I used pressure treated 2 X 10 that I ripped down to 8 3/4", gorilla glue and deck screws same as agetech's, then I put the carpet on with stainless T50 staples and some of the Henry's 667 carpet adhesive, worked really well, If you're in WI I'd say for the money pressure treated would be better, I did the bunks on my trailer and added 3 coats of End Coat, which seems to make the green even more bullet proof, it's cheap and easy......

techsledder
08-25-2009, 09:32 AM
Before and after pics of the riser.

mapleleaf
08-25-2009, 09:55 AM
just couldn't resist the cedar eh?? Your Supra knows you love it!! Looks good, almost hate to cover up nice wood with carpet......

techsledder
08-25-2009, 10:27 AM
Yeah... where I bought the supplies the ceder was a bit cheaper than the treated. So, I ran with it. Tonight I'll cover with the saved carpet. If it doesn't look all that good I may just sand it down and leave it cedar. The only problem it'll fade and will look weird with the teak on the boat. I did see one guy on here who has a teak riser! Now that would be $$. 8-)

techsledder
08-25-2009, 10:34 AM
I think this is a teak riser...https://forum.supraboats.com/picture.php?albumid=4&pictureid=15

That's bad a$$!

techsledder
05-08-2010, 07:26 AM
Digging up this old thread...

Re-builders: On the direct drive older boats (80's & 90's) how are you fastening the engine cover riser down to the main deck of the boat. My 1990 SS, I rebuilt the riser last year and the old original way for fastening the thing down to the deck was four large (like #12 or #14) 3" wood screws through the side gusset on the riser into the carpeted deck. I don't like that and it makes it difficult to refasten in the same spot every time you take the whole thing off for maintenance and put it back afterward.

Does any one have a better fastening system?

beast 496
05-08-2010, 07:58 AM
Looks awsome, your engine is extra clean also. Did you seal the cedar? Al

mapleleaf
05-08-2010, 09:27 AM
Digging up this old thread...

Re-builders: On the direct drive older boats (80's & 90's) how are you fastening the engine cover riser down to the main deck of the boat. My 1990 SS, I rebuilt the riser last year and the old original way for fastening the thing down to the deck was four large (like #12 or #14) 3" wood screws through the side gusset on the riser into the carpeted deck. I don't like that and it makes it difficult to refasten in the same spot every time you take the whole thing off for maintenance and put it back afterward.

Does any one have a better fastening system?

I hate to admit it, but I L bracketed it to the stringers.....Still living with the guilt of adding screw holes to my stringers.......

michael hunter
05-08-2010, 09:37 AM
I just made locating blocks and screwed them to the floor. The cover fits snugly to the outside of the blocks. I dont screw the cover down at all it cant move side to side and I never seen it move up. This way its easy to get off and on.

saltare inverts
05-08-2010, 04:26 PM
I made L brackets out of aluminum. The aluminum is 2 inches wide and is L shaped. I polished them to a mirror finish then drilled holes. Stainless steel screws to floor and too inside of motor cover base. Easy to unscrew and pull out.

techsledder
05-09-2010, 09:53 AM
Thanks guys, your ideas help out!

techsledder
05-09-2010, 10:00 AM
Looks awsome, your engine is extra clean also. Did you seal the cedar? Al

Thanks but it's regrettably not my boat. I saw that picture from Rludtke on here.

The cedar riser I made I haven't sealed. I never plan on putting the boat away wet, so it's not going to be an issue.

Okie Boarder
05-10-2010, 01:50 PM
I just did mine and just posted pics on my rebuild thread. I used a white pine and coated it in CPES when I was done. I built it using a finish nailer, clamps and wood glue. I painted most of it except where the main side is that will be covered in carpet. I modified it in the back so I can do chromed hinges on the outside. I'm still debating on how I'm going to keep it in place.

Michael,

You have any pictures of the way you did it with the locating blocks?

techsledder
05-17-2010, 12:51 PM
I like to see the locating block idea as well.

So Mike, any pictures you could share??!!