View Full Version : Fake Lake
SupraTTU
09-24-2009, 03:44 PM
I have a question on how to hook up the fake lake to flush the engine. I have two intakes on the bottom of the hull. One is port side by the paddle wheel and there is another on the starboard side. Which one do I hook up too? What is the other for...to fill the ballast? Thanks!
JohnnyH
09-24-2009, 03:51 PM
dude look inside the boat. one goes to the ballast system and the other to the engine.
Get a Flush Pro system around $100 and you will be set. Never crawl under your boat again for the Fake a Lake. Plus you can suck a winter solution into your engine and instant winterization.
Back to your Question I think it is the one on the Port side. Open the Vdrive access and you will be able to tell.
tg0824SSVGG
09-27-2009, 12:00 PM
There are 2 things in my wishlist at skidim.com that I hope to get and install
over the winter.
(been spending all my $$ on boat gas - instead of boat toys ...)
Flush Pro kit:
https://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=0457DP7
Shower:
https://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=101-S-C
I am actually also considering putting a 2nd Flush kit for the ballast - as we have
Zebra Mussels moving into our area - and you have to treat your ballast - or remove
it from the boat to be allowed on the lakes around here anymore ...
Todd
SupraTTU
09-28-2009, 06:40 PM
Thanks for the flush system idea. I get under the boat this weekend and what a pain to put the fake lake under there...I'm taking it back and ordering the flush system!!
The Flush Pro system is very easy to install. You will love it!!!
JONBLARC7
10-06-2009, 04:58 PM
couldn't you just splice into the raw water intake hose and use a Y connector and a ball valve from lowes and do the same thing for under 20 bucks. You'll just have to connent the hose up inside the boat.
couldn't you just splice into the raw water intake hose and use a Y connector and a ball valve from lowes and do the same thing for under 20 bucks. You'll just have to connent the hose up inside the boat.
I think you could. I don't know if it would flush the total power train or not maybe just the engine.
JONBLARC7
10-07-2009, 08:46 AM
I would think if its before the raw water pump it should send it everywhere but the ballast.
Blackntan90
10-12-2009, 06:31 PM
JONBLARC7, good idea! I always worry that while moving around inside the boat that the fake-a-lake will come off and I would not notice until the temp gets too high!
tg0824SSVGG
10-12-2009, 06:34 PM
JonBlarc,
probably cheaper than what I have in mind, but the kit I was looking at puts a hose
connection out the back of the boat - you don't have to run a garden hose
into the engine compartment at all ... might be a LOT cheaper tho.
One potential disadvantage - if you forget to put the valve back, your boat will not
draw lake water, and could get REALLY HOT! the kit I am looking at only opens
the "garden hose" with water pressure -otherwise, it's open from the lake, I think even
designed that if the spring fails - it still draws lake water.
Just a thought.
mapleleaf
10-12-2009, 06:46 PM
I think I'm gonna try that ball valve idea, I'm at the Depot daily, the one thing that might be tricky is getting a 1" through valve that offers a tee out to where you would have a hose adapter.......
I've yet to winterize (everything closed for Canadian thanksgiving here), So this flushing capabilitly is on my mind....will update tomorrow night with a parts list....
I agree with Todd about remembering to close the valve, you could end up with A LOT of water in the boat if you forgot!!!!!Maybe I'll get a plug for the hose adapter while I'm at it!!!!
mapleleaf
10-13-2009, 07:01 AM
Another problem might be that the water won't know which way to go through the Tee, might need to install another ball valve between the Tee and the raw water intake....
I'll still look at the parts at home depot....Looks like for $57 DIM's flush kit is a pretty good deal...8"long though it's not small......
Sluggo
10-13-2009, 08:13 AM
I am not an expert at modifications or add ons, but I got fed up with paying for winterization after a shop did not flush the heater core and it busted. It only takes replacing it once and going through the winterization process to realize a flush pro and installing drain valves on the heater lines is a must. I also added a quick disconnect to the flush pro hose adapter so I don't have to tighten the hose each time. This year I took some old hose and and fittings and made a Y adapter to suck in antifreeze. Works well as long as you remember to install the insert in the flush pro that holds the spring down. As soon as I figure out how, I want to get valves on the block as well. That sensor and plug are not easy to get to in my boat.
Maple, although it looks long, there was plenty of room in my setup to install. If I remember correctly, you only have to remove 4in of hose?
Dave
2005 22 SSV GG
JonBlarc,
probably cheaper than what I have in mind, but the kit I was looking at puts a hose
connection out the back of the boat - you don't have to run a garden hose
into the engine compartment at all ... might be a LOT cheaper tho.
Just a thought.
That is what I have on my boat Todd. The hose connection is at the swim deck and the hose never has to go into the boat. It took 30-45 minutes to install. I use it EVERY time I use my boat to wash out the lake water. I love mine!!! Also when you want to change the oil/Fluids you can heat the engine up right in the driveway at HOME.
tg0824SSVGG
10-13-2009, 09:49 AM
Keith, where on the transom did you drill the hole so the connector isn't in the way?
I put mine same height as the swim platform light right below the grab handle on the passenger side of the transom.
tg0824SSVGG
10-13-2009, 04:04 PM
Ok - see the photo ... I think I get it.
mapleleaf
10-14-2009, 09:24 AM
So the DIY flush kit cost $35 Can. at Home Depot:
2 PVC ball valves 1", and 3/4"
2 X 3/4"coupling
1" barbed Tee w/ 3/4"out ( for male hose adapter)
2 barbed 1" adapters
3/4" swivel hose adapter
10 gear clamps, will need to be swapped out for stainless....
My plan is to install the 1"valve after the thru hull intake and between this new shut off and the transcooler I will install the Tee with another ball valve and hose adapter, that way I should be able to close off the thru hull and allow the hose to fill the cooling system...
If it doesn't work I can replace that hose for $20 and buy DIM's kit!
better than spending $100 or $35 for a fake a lake. You can open the eng cover look down at the intake hose for the cooling system (at the hull intake brass fitting) pull it off and stick the hose in there and tighten up the hose clamp. FREE! Jet
wotan2525
10-21-2009, 04:26 PM
So the DIY flush kit cost $35 Can. at Home Depot:
2 PVC ball valves 1", and 3/4"
2 X 3/4"coupling
1" barbed Tee w/ 3/4"out ( for male hose adapter)
2 barbed 1" adapters
3/4" swivel hose adapter
10 gear clamps, will need to be swapped out for stainless....
My plan is to install the 1"valve after the thru hull intake and between this new shut off and the transcooler I will install the Tee with another ball valve and hose adapter, that way I should be able to close off the thru hull and allow the hose to fill the cooling system...
If it doesn't work I can replace that hose for $20 and buy DIM's kit!
Odd... my 87 has almost this exact same setup except it looks factory. Maybe someone waaaay back in the day added it? I guess I've taken it for granted!
mapleleaf
10-21-2009, 07:25 PM
I am not an expert at modifications or add ons, but I got fed up with paying for winterization after a shop did not flush the heater core and it busted. It only takes replacing it once and going through the winterization process to realize a flush pro and installing drain valves on the heater lines is a must. I also added a quick disconnect to the flush pro hose adapter so I don't have to tighten the hose each time. This year I took some old hose and and fittings and made a Y adapter to suck in antifreeze. Works well as long as you remember to install the insert in the flush pro that holds the spring down. As soon as I figure out how, I want to get valves on the block as well. That sensor and plug are not easy to get to in my boat.
Maple, although it looks long, there was plenty of room in my setup to install. If I remember correctly, you only have to remove 4in of hose?
Dave
2005 22 SSV GG
turns out I didn't have room on my hose for the flush DIY set up...I ended returning that stuff and after $13 at the Depot I have a DIY flush/fakea lake that I hook up to the trans cooler by removing the intake hose.....not fancy....but cheap and fast just need a flathead srew driver.......
It's a 1"lentgh of hose with an elbow and a hose adapter on it.....I'm prolly gonna have to splurge on DIM's $60 over the winter....I couldn't seem to find any short ball valve configurations at the Depot that would take up less than 8", so they would require me to lengthen my raw water intake hose......
Salty87
10-21-2009, 07:37 PM
this is my home depot made transmission cooler/hose connector. probably around $15.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a10/salty87/HoseBoat.jpg
mapleleaf
10-21-2009, 09:55 PM
No pics cuz mine's out under the cover..... similar to Salty's only it's four parts 1" hose, barbed elbow PVC w/3/4" threads, 3/4" PVC coupling and a brass swivelling female hose adapter......I love it!!!!
foxriverat
10-21-2009, 10:41 PM
Heres my cheap contraption I made today. 1 inch hose will connect to top of my trans cooler. Very easy to get to on my boat. Bucket will sit on swim platform. Turn on the garden hose fill the bucket. Start the boat. Suck up the water. When it gets up to temp. Turn off the hose. Fill bucket with antifreeze and suck it up.
mapleleaf
10-22-2009, 12:15 AM
Hey fox, good deal on the bucket......
dshaff24
10-29-2009, 01:56 AM
couldn't you just splice into the raw water intake hose and use a Y connector and a ball valve from lowes and do the same thing for under 20 bucks. You'll just have to connent the hose up inside the boat.
if you look in the pics section of pride and joy and look under my 86 project you will see this is exactly what the previous owner did! Works great
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