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foxriverat
10-20-2009, 12:15 PM
I cant get 1/2 inch drive on manifold plugs. Because my mufflers are in the way. Doesnt look like they were ever removed. If I take the risers off the manifold. I can move the mufflers enough to get to them. Is there a gasket between the manifold and riser I will need to replace? Or should I just suck up antifreeze through the whole system and be done with it?

87SunSportMikeyD
10-20-2009, 12:18 PM
I was able to get the using a hinged socket accessory to let the 1/2" drive get seated and turn without slipping. It was still tough. Anyone have a better permanant solution ie petcocks?

jzelt
10-20-2009, 02:00 PM
Why not just pull the hose clamp and hose off? That is how I drain mine.

foxriverat
10-20-2009, 02:19 PM
I tried. You would have to remove the risers to get the hoses or the mufflers out. And I guess you shouldnt reuse riser gaskets. Should probably order new riser gaskets. And plugs I can get an open end wrench on.

87SunSportMikeyD
10-20-2009, 06:56 PM
Older boats the hoses can be realllly stuck on there and would probably have to be cut off with knife and replaced.

mapleleaf
10-20-2009, 07:28 PM
I found that a set of channel locks on a stuck hose work great to free it from the barbed fitting...That and Popeye's spinach!
My plugs are almost unreach able as well, I managed to walk the 1/2"socket up in there and remove them, maybe a little penetrating oil wouldn't hurt???? I can't see removing the risers as a regular winterizing procedure....

Salty87
10-20-2009, 09:19 PM
I was able to get the using a hinged socket accessory to let the 1/2" drive get seated and turn without slipping. It was still tough. Anyone have a better permanant solution ie petcocks?

petcocks get clogged up unless you clear them frequently. and when you do, you dump rusty crap into the bilge. i have a set from skidim, not worth the $ imo. not a knock on the product, there's just crap in the water.

i've read of other manifold type products that splice into each spot and you can drain the whole engine from one manifold. can't remember the name at all, it wasn't cheap.

one thing i've kind of wondered....most people change their impellers annually. 15 seconds without water will only shorten the impellers already doomed life, won't hurt anything else...will it drain the block?...or does water stop circulating when prime is lost?

Ontarion
10-21-2009, 12:20 AM
I was able to get a slim Johnson bar in enough to crack the seal and then vise grips on the knurled part of the plug to get it the rest of the way out. When I put them back in I just snugged them. It’s not a problem since I replaced those crappy Ultra-Marine fiberglass mufflers with the stainless ones from Rex Marine; now there is lots of room. Those hoses won't release without a fight. Someone at sometime had used glue or sealant to the old fiberglass mufflers to try and stop them from leaking. I had to cut them off. I have 1/4" NPT brass butterfly valves for draining air compressors in the block and on the water pump elbow. They are a couple of bucks each and work great. I thought about the drain cocks for the manifolds but they really should have the rust and gunk flushed out once a year anyway. I can't imagine those drain cocks not getting plugged.
Ps. if you are going to try the butterfly valves, you will need an extension nipple on the starboard side to let the valve clear the motor mount.

foxriverat
10-21-2009, 09:02 AM
Thanks Ontarion. I have been spraying the pb blaster on the manifold plugs the last 3 days. And will try the vise grips or small pie wrench. Going to pick up a few extra plugs just in case. I will be looking into getting some of those sexy rexy stainless mufflers over the winter. Well upper 60`s today in northern Il. Might have to get 1 more run in before I put her to sleep for the winter.

csuggs
10-21-2009, 09:10 AM
Funny you guys are all talking about this. I had the same problem with my manifold plugs yesterday. I finally had to remove the riser to get one of them off. Then I went to skidim.com and ordered new riser gaskets. Two of them with shipping cost just over $20. I would like to use a different plug in it's place that is easier to remove - skidim has a set of plugs with drain valve that I was looking at but didn't order. After reading about someone's experience with them on here I don't know if they are worth the money. I can see them getting plugged with crap.

foxriverat
10-21-2009, 10:14 AM
I was at lowes yesterday. And they had 3/4 brass plugs. They were not the inverted. Where you have to get a 1/2 inch drive to get them out. They were outward. Where you could get a cresent or open end wrench on them. I couldnt use them because my mufflers are too close to the manifold to get them in. I have to stay with the inverted and vise grips untill I change mufflers. That is if I can get mine off. Or I too will be ordering the riser gaskets.

wotan2525
10-21-2009, 11:55 AM
Why are you guys even worrying about pulling these plugs out? I don't think my engine has ever had them removed even when I rebuilt it. Suck up 5 gallons of RV anti-freeze and call it good. Seems simple to me.... took me about 15 minutes and that included removing and reinstalling the thermostat when I was done.

87SunSportMikeyD
10-23-2009, 10:16 AM
That's what I was thinking too, but I got about 1/3 gal out of each side manifold. I'm sure, though, that if you suck up AntiFreeze it will mix and be just fine... but since I couldnt get my motor running when I winterized I wanted to play it safe and drain it all.

You do drain the block plugs and the impeller pump plug, right?

wotan2525
10-23-2009, 01:15 PM
Why? Everything that has water in it is being flushed (or at least mixed) with antifreeze. I don't pull any plugs. Haven't in 6 years and never had a problem. Boat has even been outside for some of those winters. The only thing I pull is the thermostat so I don't have to worry about it staying closed when I pump it full of antifreeze.

87SunSportMikeyD
10-23-2009, 04:00 PM
Mine is always outside, so I worry! I dunno THOUGHT that would logically work but I didn't want to be the one that experiments...

jet
10-23-2009, 08:37 PM
In TX I just drain the 2-block plugs and then the big hose on the front of the engine and stabil the gas, thats it!

foxriverat
10-23-2009, 09:24 PM
Yes I am just going to just suck up the antifreeze this year after the boat gets up to temp. I am going to change the mufflers next year. And I will be able to get to the plugs if I decide to go that route.

Ontarion
10-23-2009, 10:08 PM
I guess it depends on where you live and what kind of winter you happen to have that year. My boat sits under a carport at the cottage near Parry Sound, Ontario. Protected from the snow (sort of) but not the cold. RV type antifreeze can be rated for -32, -40 or -56 depending on the brand. Thats straight up. Mix it up and it falls off quickly.
Last year I used -40 type in the boat and the plumbing fixtures in the cottage. Maybe an inch of water in the toilet and a half a gallon of antifreeze. Last year we lost one toilet; it cracked. The other one was OK.
I think that is the second time in 35 or so years.

This year I used -56. For the boat I suck up the 4 gallons and then pull the plugs. Turn 3 butterfly valves and pull 2 plugs is what; 5 minutes? I replaced a couple of frozen manifolds a long time ago. It won't be happening to me a second time.

foxriverat
10-24-2009, 09:12 AM
I will be keeping the boat in my buddys barn for the winter. Not heated. But out of the wind and elements. I picked up 4 gal of the Quicksilver -100 below antifreeze. Since the manifold plugs havn`t been out in a while. I imagine that is how its been done for a while. It came from upstate NY. He had the dealer winterize. And it sat outside for 2 winters. He only fired it up and took it out once this season. To make sure everything was ok before he put up for sale.

csuggs
10-24-2009, 09:25 AM
I had to remove the risers to get the manifold plugs out. Now that they are out, I ordered 3/4x1/2 brass face bushings and 1/2 brass countersunk plugs. My thought is that the brass plug will come out of the brass bushing easier than the brass bushing coming out of the cast-iron manifold. The face bushing has no head and the countersunk plug has no head so there's not a clearance issue. Plug comes out with an allen head wrench.

foxriverat
10-25-2009, 09:26 AM
After I dumped stable in the tank. Ran the boat. Changed oil and trans fluid. Fogged the engine. I put the vise grips on the manifold plugs and they came out without a problem. I then just winterized. Like the owners manual said. Removed 2 engine plugs. Stuck wire in the holes to make sure they were clear. Sucked out the holes with shop vac. Just for a little more peace of mind. Removed plug in J tube. Flushed the exhaust manifold with fresh water. Took off and blew out every water hose, trans cooler and speedo lines. Removed impeller. Put plugs and hoses back on. Poured -100 marine antifreeze in the hose running from the top of the raw water pump to thermostat housing. It took 2 1/2 gallons. Wd 40 the outside of the engine. Just have to take the battery out and clean her up today.

87SunSportMikeyD
10-26-2009, 03:13 PM
Wow nj you just saved $300 the dealer would've charged you. Where will she be stored?

foxriverat
10-26-2009, 04:14 PM
Boat will be stored in my buddys unheated barn. About 10 miles away from me. LaFox IL.

Blackntan90
10-28-2009, 09:16 PM
Hey guys, dont forget to lube the throttle, shift,& steering linkages as well! And my manual says to turn the steering lock to lock a couple of times every month!

KO1
10-28-2009, 09:21 PM
Hey guys, dont forget to lube the throttle, shift,& steering linkages as well! And my manual says to turn the steering lock to lock a couple of times every month!

Speaking of lubing the throttle cable. What is the best way to do this??