Did I miss anything??? winterization

[Fman]

Just winterized my boat yesterday, this what I did....

Drained the block out of the knock sensor plugs on each side of motor
Blew out the heater lines removing the water
Drained all water out of the impeller area
Used my shop vac to extract all water out of bilge areas
Have been adding Sta-bil to fuel for the last month
Completely detailed the boat inside and out
Shut off batteries and master fuse switch

Boat is parked in a garage all year, in Roseville the weather rarely gets to freezing, our average temp in the winter is upper 30' to low 40's at night. I do not fog the motor because I have heard it can clog the injectors.

In the spring I plan on...

Replacing impeller
New fuel filter
Change engine oil and trans fluid
Clean air filter

Did I forget anything????

Thanks....

[jzelt]

I drained the water out of the strainers (1 for intake to motor, 1 for intake on ballast pump) since they are plastic. Run the pumps to make sure there isn't water sitting in them.
Did you make sure the water is out of the ballast lines so they don't have a chance to burst?
I also added 1 cup bleach to each ballast bag and swished it around. We took everything out of the boat and put it in the house so everything has a chance to dry out.

Otherwise, sounds like you have the major components. Also, took out stereo face and put it in the house so it doesn't freeze.

Run a fan or 2 to make sure no moisture is in the carpet for mold...

[michael hunter]

It would be better to change the oil before winterizing. The recommended procedure for fogging is to remove the spark plugs and spray in fogging oil then rotate the engine a couple revolutions.That keeps rust from forming in the cylinders.Also loosen the drive belts. Its also good to block up the trailer and keep the weight off the tires and suspension.

[tg0824SSVGG]

Fman,

Agree with changing the oil BEFORE putting away, used oil contains acid that is hard
on the motor.

Also - I assume your ballast is all disconnected and cleared out?

Here in Northern Colorado - it's already been below 20 degrees several times, I also
put RV antifreeze into the heater line, then blow that thru until I see it come out
the block drain on the passenger side. I don't know/trust if just blowing gets 100% of the water out of hte core. By putting the antifreeze in, I am feeling better in case of low spots in the hose, etc.

There is also a tiny drain on the ?muffler? at the back of the boat. Tiny little
screw on the bottom, passenger side. In Roseville, it may not be that big of a deal,
but I was told to open it an let it drain as well.

Someone had posted detailed winterization photos just a day or 2 ago that show
this thing I am speaking of - can't seem to find the post right now.

[tg0824SSVGG]

Ah - no wonder I couldn't find it - it was a link to pictures on the Moomba site.
The muffler drain I am talking about is shown very clearly in step 4) of this
post -- the photo shows the screw (and do as it suggests, use a container - this
drains on carpet)

http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/showthread.php?t=6925

Todd

[Fishman]

Fman, don't forget to drain your v-drive...the link to the Moomba post above is awesome and will show pics of the v-drive.

Fishman

[Fman]

Thanks for the replies, I will definitely drain out the exhaust system, does anyone have a write-up on changing the oil before winterization???? I only have about 20 hours on this oil change, would be interested to find out more information on this and what effects used oil has sitting in the motor.

[docdrs]

Thanks for the replies, I will definitely drain out the exhaust system, does anyone have a write-up on changing the oil before winterization???? I only have about 20 hours on this oil change, would be interested to find out more information on this and what effects used oil has sitting in the motor.

Fman, this is what basically what happens to the oil

Condensation in the engine is very hard on the oil. this condensation and resultant water will cause acid build up in the oil with resultant corrosion of the engine ( its the acids on the bearings on the cranks and cams ). Therefore fresh oil in the fall and circulated thru the block on winterization is the optimum choice to eliminate these acids. its the heating up and cooling down of the engine and oil thats does this.

So if you have 20 hours on your oil and you changed it the week before i would say no you don't have to replace it. if it was 2 months and 20 hours then replace it. Its your call. This is my take on it.

I had 15 hours on my oil and boat over a one month period sept 8 to oct 8 and changed it on winterization , but it was a new boat and the oil was much older as per the build date on my vin number as i figured it.

Its so easy, clean and cheap to change the oil on these vdrives, for the $30 and 10 mins , i'm thinking why wouldn't ya. Just my .02

the moomba website is awesome for information, both are made by sc and i believe there are way more moombas than supras so thus alot of information can be found here.
doug

[docdrs]

Just winterized my boat yesterday, this what I did....

Drained the block out of the knock sensor plugs on each side of motor
Blew out the heater lines removing the water
Drained all water out of the impeller area
Used my shop vac to extract all water out of bilge areas
Have been adding Sta-bil to fuel for the last month
Completely detailed the boat inside and out
Shut off batteries and master fuse switch

Boat is parked in a garage all year, in Roseville the weather rarely gets to freezing, our average temp in the winter is upper 30' to low 40's at night. I do not fog the motor because I have heard it can clog the injectors.

In the spring I plan on...

Replacing impeller
New fuel filter
Change engine oil and trans fluid
Clean air filter

Did I forget anything????

Thanks....

I also remove batteries and place on a float charger , disconnect large J hose on engine to drain, removing spark plugs and 3-4 seconds of fogging is to lube the rings so they do not stick on spring start up, carb fogging is only for non cats and tbi engines as cats don't like the oil and mpi's have a dry intake. Dryer sheets inside the boat to keep the little furry guys away. A generous coat of wax on the hull . I leave my impellar in if i'm going to change it in the spring . Alot of controversy here, but i've had outboards 200 hp and never done anything with the impellers and they have lasted 10 years, i could go on more here but wont. I believe the rest has been covered by others.

I live in an area where -30 is common so i need to be sure.

[docdrs]

Thanks for the replies, I will definitely drain out the exhaust system, does anyone have a write-up on changing the oil before winterization???? I only have about 20 hours on this oil change, would be interested to find out more information on this and what effects used oil has sitting in the motor.

here is an article

http://www.sunandski.ca/ManufactureRecommendService/ServiceTips0000Engine%20Oil%20and%20Filter%20chang e.html

[JohnnyH]

change the oil before you set it up not after the winter

[Fman]

Kind of funny, my dealer does not even recommend changing the oil until the spring before I take it out. They claim condensation and moisture will build up in the engine over the winter and you want fresh oil in the engine before you take the boat out. Maybe in California where the winters are very mild it is not as critical of an issue. We rarely hit freezing, most of the time the nights are upper 30's to low 40's. Plus being in the garage also helps with some of this.

I will probably change it just to be on the safe side.

[docdrs]

an ounce of prevention is worth $1000's . old oil has acids in it that can cause corrosion, its the heat and cool cycles of the oil not just sitting there. change it in the fall and run it before shut down

http://www.sunandski.ca/ManufactureRecommendService/ServiceTips0000Engine%20Oil%20and%20Filter%20chang e.html

oops posted this before sorry, but there are numerous articles like this on the internet....and it makes sense