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View Full Version : 1986 Sunsport Tear Down and Rebuild.. by a Novice!



tallnfast
01-08-2010, 10:42 PM
Hello Everyone;
I decided to start a thread on my boat tear apart and rebuild.
A little about my situation: I owned an 89 Malibu Sunsetter for a few years, then sold it and was looking for another value boat. During my research I came across this site and was inspired to buy an older Supra and put some time into making mine! PLEASE NOTE I am not very handy and have never done anything like this. With that being said I took a lot of pictures to ensure I remembered how it went back together.
I will post a lot of pictures of the process, and also ask all of you a lot of questions. Here are my plans:
1. Tear the boat apart (done) 2. Take out carpet (done) 3. Remove gas tank to get at rotten wood (done) 4. Replace all the rotted wood (1/4 way done) 5. Replace rear transom bench seat wood (done) 6. Re-install the tower that was put on improperly (Jim will do at Viper) 6. Tune the engine, it only has 400 hrs (got a guy who will teach me (not done yet) 7. New bilge pump 8. Re-do all teak wood (not done) 9. new starter (not done) 10. New speakers 11. Re-do trailer, boat does not fit properly on it, not original (not done yet)

I went to Arkansas to get this boat for 4K. The floors and stringers were fiberglassed a few years ago. The seller showed me a bill for $3200... seems a little high?

I want to do a lot by myself with quidance from forums and other people. So far a few of you have already help, and I appreciate everyone being so encouraging so far. I have noticed that the older model Supra owners really like to pass along thier love for these boats.

I will post pictures frequently going forward through the process. I have been doing it now for about two weeks. I hope to have it all done by May or June??
HOwever I keep looking at the next thing and saying to myself...why not?

I have 100 pictures to share, I will share a Shutterfly link soon, but does anyone have an easier way to post pics. The one I posted in this thread took about 5 minutes to upload...

tallnfast
01-08-2010, 11:19 PM
As you can see, these are the before pictures. Working hard to ensure the after pictures look better....
Here is about 100 more pictures. I took a lot of pics because I was worried about putting it back together the correct way. Click on View Album at the bottom:
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AbtWLdm1bN2TlI

dshaff24
01-09-2010, 12:24 PM
I host pictures on www.picturetrail.com, whats your plans for the boat?

csuggs
01-09-2010, 10:49 PM
It looks like you've got a good start on the boat. I'm glad that you're stringers have already been done but don't quite understand why you have more rot under the floor if the stringers were done right. While you've got it apart, I would just be sure that you take care of everything that needs to be taken care of so that you don't find yourself having to do it again. Do your motor mounts tighten good? Keep us posted of your progress!

tallnfast
01-10-2010, 12:01 AM
dshaff24: I plan on basically replacing all the seat wood, keeping the existing vinyl, fix what needs fixing, re-fiberglass, re-install starter, tune up engine, stereo, fix the trailer, fix other small things, that's all.

Csuggs:
In regards to the rotted wood. I should have explained. The wood that is rotted is the 1/2" plywood that the gas tank sits on. For whatever reason, it was saturated with water. Maybe the previous floor guys got lazy?

I did not check the motor mount bolts. I will do tommorow. Today I worked on re-doing the the wood on the spotter seat. There was a few angled cuts that took me a long time, as I am learing as I go!

Still stumped about how to remove the ski pylon, all bolts are out...

Jester
01-10-2010, 02:31 AM
Still stumped about how to remove the ski pylon, all bolts are out...
tallnfast,
I looked at the pictures of your pylon and it looks like it's corroded and most likely won't come apart. My brother and I tried to remove ours from it's base during our stringer rebuild but eventually gave up on it. It wasn't going to budge. We had wanted to remove it and still have the option of putting it back in the base to use for our barefoot boom when needed. We ended up just installing the whole pylon back in the boat.

mapleleaf
01-11-2010, 12:45 AM
tallnfast,
I looked at the pictures of your pylon and it looks like it's corroded and most likely won't come apart. My brother and I tried to remove ours from it's base during our stringer rebuild but eventually gave up on it. It wasn't going to budge. We had wanted to remove it and still have the option of putting it back in the base to use for our barefoot boom when needed. We ended up just installing the whole pylon back in the boat.

Got any pics of the pylon in the back??? sounds pretty cool......

87SunSportMikeyD
01-11-2010, 12:28 PM
If the pylon bolts are out, it is likely just rusted in. I also planned on keeping the pylon in case I wanted to barefoot, but I haven't even had time to try I've been so busy boarding and surfing. Looks great welcome to the club.

Okie Boarder
01-11-2010, 01:53 PM
Looking good. I just looked at a few pictures...I'll look at more when I have more time. I was planning the same thing with my pylon, but mine won't seperate either. I'm still debating on keeping it, putting it back, or just getting rid of it. I'm not sure I would use it, but whenever I sell the boat someday, it might be good to have it.

87SunSportMikeyD
01-11-2010, 04:22 PM
I can attest that is feels much roomier in that area without it. People really like to sit on or slide over the motorbox.

tallnfast
01-11-2010, 04:32 PM
Well.... I was pretty sure it was just "Stuck". So I figured a little muscle and a sledge hammer would do the trick.... Wrong!

So basically I have very secure pylon with little dents all over it now from hitting it with a sledge hammer. So... basically, i think i am going to keep it in, and just clean up the bottom where it was fraying, as I would think it is still very safe to pull someone with. However, I now have to either fix the little dents in the pylon or just live with it... Very frustrating!
The pic is the reason why I wanted to replace it...

tallnfast
01-11-2010, 04:37 PM
One more thing I discovered this weekend while i was trying to re-upholster (sp) my rear bench seat with existing fabric and foam.
Called a local upholstery shop and they turned me on the best stuff on earth:
Misty Super Spray Adhesive.
Man... it holds great, and sticks quick. I now have fabric that is tight on the wood, plus my rear bench seat looks new... well new for a 24 year old boat.

Also learned that doing vinyl work with heat is much better then without!
Learning so much during this process, it has been fun!

87SunSportMikeyD
01-11-2010, 04:47 PM
to post pics right in the thread use tags like this but without spaces
[ img ] http://ww .picURL.gif [ / img ]

agetech
01-14-2010, 11:42 AM
For everyone trying to get their pylon out- use PB BLASTER and let it soak overnight. I got my pylon out of my 20 year old Supra with it, I really didn't think I had a chance of getting it out, but the Blaster really works. After you let it soak, just start shaking and wiggling it and when you feel it loosen-up tou can start turning it, after a while it will be loose enough to pull out.

csuggs
01-14-2010, 01:01 PM
Mine comes out no problem. Just loosen the bolts and vuala - out it comes.

mapleleaf
01-14-2010, 07:22 PM
cheeky Clint, well ok mine does too!!!!
I'd second the PB Blaster, that stuff'll free anything.....

csuggs
01-14-2010, 10:07 PM
Yeah - PB Blaster is really good stuff. Let it soak a little while and it works great. I've used it for industrial applications with great success.

tallnfast
01-15-2010, 05:35 PM
OK, I will try the PB Blaster, i have heard of it. I assume I put it around where the pylon comes up from the floor, as that is the only area I believe there is a chance of it penetrating.

I am at work now, so I can't recall if there is even any room where the pylon comes up, thought it was all compressed?

Either way i will look at it and try it, thanks for the heads up. Yes, CSUGGS I wish it were that easy!

Update: since my last post i have replace and re-upholstered the wood that comes out from the floor, right above the drive shaft, and also replaced and reupholstered the trim pieces by the rear bench seat.

The vinyl was fine, i put new carpet on them. The wood was all rotted, especially where it made contact with the floor. I would love to know what that boat has actually been through?

This is going to sound very novice... but how do i run the boat while it's hooked up to a garden hose? Thanks
pics are rotted trim wood, and rotten dog house base

csuggs
01-15-2010, 09:47 PM
This is going to sound very novice... but how do i run the boat while it's hooked up to a garden hose? Thanks
pics are rotted trim wood, and rotten dog house base

The easiest way is to hook up a fake-a-lake (follow the link) - it covers the raw water intake under the boat. Hook up a water hose, turn the water on, and start the motor. Make sure there are no kinks in the hose and also be sure the hose isn't being sucked flat while running the motor. Garden hoses are designed for pressure and not suction, so it is possible to suck the hose flat (especially at higher rpms) resulting in overheating.

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=FAK01

87SunSportMikeyD
01-16-2010, 10:29 AM
Without purchasing anything, simply unhook your raw water strainer. It should have a hose clamp to loosen, thats it. Find the side that leads to the motor (other side runs to the floor and through the hull to suck up water) and stick your garden hose in there. The hose only needs to be turned on a medium/moderate flow, not all the way.

I would avoid throttling up to high rpms if possible.

tallnfast
01-17-2010, 08:18 PM
Thanks guys for your help.
I was thinking that was how you did it, just wanted to make sure it was correct.

Next questions:

1. Trying to remove my rear teak wood around the transom, to sand and refinish, I drilled out the middle to find the screw heads, is there a better way?
As I can't reach the screw head without drilling the top of the screw?

2. Where is my impeller located? and what is the size so I can ensure I order the correct one.

3. Do most of you have two batteries?

4. My trim plate was basically bent and corroded, so i took it off for cleaning and inspection, does your trim plate have screws, screwed into the hull?
What is the proper position of the trim for wakeboarding and/or general use?

Thanks for all your help again. I am going to be getting to the engine and some fiberglass soon..... so I will be paying Jim a visit soon at Viper.

Worked on sanding all the teak today.....eeerrr

dshaff24
01-18-2010, 12:15 AM
Thanks guys for your help.
I was thinking that was how you did it, just wanted to make sure it was correct.

Next questions:

1. Trying to remove my rear teak wood around the transom, to sand and refinish, I drilled out the middle to find the screw heads, is there a better way?
As I can't reach the screw head without drilling the top of the screw?

2. Where is my impeller located? and what is the size so I can ensure I order the correct one.

3. Do most of you have two batteries?

4. My trim plate was basically bent and corroded, so i took it off for cleaning and inspection, does your trim plate have screws, screwed into the hull?
What is the proper position of the trim for wakeboarding and/or general use?

Thanks for all your help again. I am going to be getting to the engine and some fiberglass soon..... so I will be paying Jim a visit soon at Viper.

Worked on sanding all the teak today.....eeerrr

my trim plate is tilted up just a tad from being flush with the bottom of the hull,

purple boat
01-18-2010, 02:11 PM
If you have the PCM 351 Ford, the impeller will be on the driver's side of the motor on the front, down low. You should see the water hose coming up to it from under the motor. To order the impeller, go to www.skidim.com and they have the part for under 30.00. I run 2 batteries in my 88 Sunsport. Both of them are under the spotter's seat and I use a battery switch I mounted in the compartment. You mentioned at teh beginning of your post you had saturated wood back where the fuel tank sits. While you have teh tank out, all the way at the back of the stingers, there are drain holes to allow water to drain from the separate areas of the hull back into the center where the drains are. Check to make sure the holes aren't plugged up. You also may want to check your swim platform bolts. I could not figure out how I was getting water in the boat for a long time. I decided to pull my platform after I noticed one of the bolts would not snug up. The inner plywood was wet, so I figured that was where I was getting water. I let it sit and dry for about a week, then used marine epoxy to fill the lag bolt screws. After that had a couple days to cure, I re-mounted the platform to the regular bolt holes and re-drilled the lag bolt holes, pulled the platform back off, applied sealant to ALL the bolt holes, and re-mounted the platform. No more water in the bilge. The teak around the platform I can't help you with, mine has a steel rail, but it is MUCH easier to re-do the platform while it is off the boat. Good luck!

tallnfast
01-18-2010, 09:15 PM
Thanks for the answers:
I attached pictures as to where I believe the impeller is located (please remember i am a novice)
Also attached is a picture of my rear stringers, i can't find a hole anywhere?
I was told they repaired the floor and stringers with fiberglass, which is what you will see in the third picture. Let me know if this is what the floors look like, repaired/reinforced with fiberglass.
FYI: i was working with the trim plate yesterday and noticed that some of bolts were loose that attach to the hull. Anything below the waterline scares me somewhat, was thinking of having the swim platform and the trim plate looked at professionally...

What is the position of your trim plate, just curious, thanks!

tallnfast
01-18-2010, 09:31 PM
ooops, here are the files

michael hunter
01-19-2010, 10:47 AM
The first pic is your raw water pump. 2- 1/2 inch bolts and 2 hoses to take it off. There are 3- 7/16 bolts holding the two haves together to get to the impeller. NOTE make sure you mark the top and put a line across the two haves to line it up correctly when putting it back together.

You can just see the line filed across the two haves.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn127/suprahunter/Suprawinterize009.jpg

The black arrow points up for correct installation. Note it is possible to install the pump upside down it wont work that way.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn127/suprahunter/Suprawinterize010.jpg

87SunSportMikeyD
01-19-2010, 02:01 PM
For your replacement impellor, use skidim.com. There should only be one impellor choice for a 351.

tallnfast
01-19-2010, 04:34 PM
Thanks guys, that is one of the reasons why I bought a Supra, the community and the support.

Next question: Bilge Pumps, automatic or manual? Thinking that the boat is going to be covered in a lift.

Thoughts?

purple boat
01-19-2010, 08:39 PM
My boat had holes at the back of the stringers, about 1/2 inch diam. Looks like yours may have gotten sealed during the repair. Check on the outside of the stringers and see if there are holes in the compartment where the mufflers are. I have an automatic bilge pump in my boat, which works out well when you have kids getting in and out of the water all day. You would be surprised at how much water sticks to kids until they get in the boat... The picture you included for your raw water pump helps a lot. That is the Sherwood pump. The information Michael Hunter gave you is important! If you put it back together backwards, "it 'don work so good". And the pictures Mr. Hunter included are far prettier than any I could give you. When you pull the impeller, look to see what condition it is in; cracked, missing pieces, worn down, or possibly in good shape. This will give you an idea of how the motor was maintained prior to you buying the boat. Since you mentioned there had been water in the back under the fuel tank, check the exhaust exits to see if you have a leak where the pipes go through the transom. By the way, you said you want "to have it all done by May or June"? It's a boat; it's NEVER done!

tallnfast
01-19-2010, 10:19 PM
Ok...with all your help I feel like Christopher Columbus...I found the infamous Impeller! Bad news, it is in bad shape, which may represent the way the boat has been taken care of. Here are a few questions I have now:

1. Clint told me to check my rear engine bolts some time ago... I didn't know why, i still don't, but i check the all of them tonight and the rear don't tighten, however the stringers they are attached to are solid? What is the deal?

2. I need a new starter (the previous owner told me) where is it? And what kind of starter would you recommend?

3. This may sound wierd, but my boat seems to be filling up with water. I emptied the bilge area the other day, and i swear there is more water in there today? Why is that?

4. See the picture of the impeller and the piece I am holding in my hand, what is it? why does that part come apart? Should it? The impeller was missing 2/3 of one blade, and two other blades were cracked

5. I have an engine guy who knows a lot and he is willing to teach me, which is one of the reasons why I bought the boat, i honestly wanted to learn more about the mechanics. I can say i have learned a lot, and i know i still have a lot to learn.

FYI: The people that respond to my questions...It is appreciated greatly, please know you are really helping me out... I am really enjoying this process.

Another thing i am going to have Jim at Viper look at is to make sure the mufflers are not leaking through the transom as "Purple Boat" mentioned.

csuggs
01-20-2010, 10:07 AM
Ok...with all your help I feel like Christopher Columbus...I found the infamous Impeller! Bad news, it is in bad shape, which may represent the way the boat has been taken care of. Here are a few questions I have now:

1. Clint told me to check my rear engine bolts some time ago... I didn't know why, i still don't, but i check the all of them tonight and the rear don't tighten, however the stringers they are attached to are solid? What is the deal?

2. I need a new starter (the previous owner told me) where is it? And what kind of starter would you recommend?

3. This may sound wierd, but my boat seems to be filling up with water. I emptied the bilge area the other day, and i swear there is more water in there today? Why is that?

4. See the picture of the impeller and the piece I am holding in my hand, what is it? why does that part come apart? Should it? The impeller was missing 2/3 of one blade, and two other blades were cracked

5. I have an engine guy who knows a lot and he is willing to teach me, which is one of the reasons why I bought the boat, i honestly wanted to learn more about the mechanics. I can say i have learned a lot, and i know i still have a lot to learn.

FYI: The people that respond to my questions...It is appreciated greatly, please know you are really helping me out... I am really enjoying this process.

Another thing i am going to have Jim at Viper look at is to make sure the mufflers are not leaking through the transom as "Purple Boat" mentioned.

I asked you to check the motor mount bolts because that will indicate the condition of the stringers. The stringers may look ok on the outside, but if you're bolts won't tighten, they're probably rotten inside. Look to see if there are rust stains running down from around the engine mount bolts. Or better yet, remove a couple of the bolts and see if any water comes out. Your boat is filling up with water because the hull and foam are saturated and somehow it is getting into the bilge area. Mine did the same thing and I finally found a place where the water was slowly bleeding through the fiberglass. I'm gonna venture a guess and say that it sounds like you're in for a stringer and floor replacement job. The half-moon shaped piece of metal in your hand looks to be the shaft key from your impeller.

Salty87
01-20-2010, 10:42 AM
for your starter, there should be a large red battery type cable attached to it. i can't remember where they are on your engine...woops.

when you get it out, find a 12v electric shop...like an old school auto electric shop. they can test it and rebuild it as necessary. if you take it to a dealer or mechanic, they'll do the same thing...drive it over to the elec shop.

you say the impeller is missing pieces...you'll want to track those down. they can clog waterflow and cause problems. your buddy should be able to help with that no problem.

on your engine mount bolts...try taking 1 out and see if you've got brown mush on the threads. over the years, water can find its way into areas that it can't drain out of. swim platform brackets and the exhaust ports are common entry points. leaving a boat stored without a cover is another kiss of death. rain water gets where it wouldn't normally get if puddles form.

sybrmike
01-20-2010, 10:56 AM
I'll second suggs comments. I thought I was gonna get lucky since my driveline bolts were all tight with no visible corrosion. However, once I got under the gas tank and could see some real substructure - it's rotten. If the bolts are spinning, then pretty sure you'll find the wood in the stringers are shot. The fiberglass can look good and feel solid to the knock, but you don't really know for sure until you open it up. You can drill a few 1-2" dia holes thrugh the glass for inspection - especially .

Water that keeps mysteriously appearing in the bilge is a sure sign the foam/wood are saturated and slowly leaching out. Sounds like a stringer job is in your future. Good luck.

tallnfast
01-20-2010, 11:27 AM
NNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!
I am about to cry.... I will investigate tonight.

That makes my boat a terrible investment, eeerrrr.

I assume that is not something I can repair myself?

I am speechless....

Okie Boarder
01-20-2010, 12:07 PM
With some care, time, basic tools and basic mechanical aptitude, you can do it. Look at the various threads on here about rebuilds and see what it entails.

You're also in TN, right? You could consider taking it to viper customs and having them do it. Figure around $5000 having them do it, but it would be done right and pretty quick, I'm sure.

Salty87
01-20-2010, 01:03 PM
you didn't get ripped too bad at $4k if the engine is still running strong. and, boats are one of the worst investments so you're amongst friends here. lol. think about it more along the lines of you'll have a fantastic boat at a pretty damn good price once you're done...and you won't have the payment of a new boat.

rebuilds are dirty and hard work but there's nothing terribly technical about it. you def don't have to be a gear-head or have professional tools or anything. you can get most of the tools you'll need for about $100 at harbor freight. you do need some room though.

were you planning to keep the boat for a long time or was this a starter boat?

csuggs
01-20-2010, 02:57 PM
[QUOTE=Salty87;26482]you didn't get ripped too bad at $4k if the engine is still running strong. and, boats are one of the worst investments so you're amongst friends here. lol. think about it more along the lines of you'll have a fantastic boat at a pretty damn good price once you're done...and you won't have the payment of a new boat.[QUOTE]

Agree 100% Salty. If you go ahead and fix the boat right, you will end up with a "keeper", meaning that you'll never be able to sell it and get your money out of it. But you'll end up with a damn good boat for the money. For me that's a no brainer because I plan to keep mine for many years. You can't think of it as an investment. Think of it more as a black hole you throw money into . . . but for enthusiasts like most of us on this forum that's ok!

tallnfast
01-20-2010, 03:19 PM
I plan on keeping the boat.
Here is what I am thinking "worst case sceneario"

4,000 Initial boat purchase investment
500 Already invested
2500 Stringer Repair
500 Engine Tune up
2000 Fiberglass work, tower re-install, trailer fix, misc stuff
(mostly work that Jim at Viper will do that I can't do)
9500 total, lets say 10K
Just wondering if it would of been better to buy a 10K boat that should of had less issues? But.... I guess I am this far into it I have to move forward.
I am nervous to go home tonight and look at the bolts closer.....

Also.. started looking at other Stringer threads... pulling the boat apart sure seems like a massive project?? I will get back to you all tonight/tommorow.
Thanks again for everyones input.... some I didn't want to hear.

Oh yeah, what happens if i don't replace the stringers? Just asking...

Salty87
01-20-2010, 03:52 PM
Just wondering if it would of been better to buy a 10K boat that should of had less issues? But.... I guess I am this far into it I have to move forward.
I am nervous to go home tonight and look at the bolts closer.....

the unknowns are something you'll always run into with a used boat. even new boats often have kinks to be worked out. sure you have a warranty but you're paying for it too.


Oh yeah, what happens if i don't replace the stringers? Just asking...

these boats weren't built to withstand anything but they were built very strong. you've got wet foam in addition to bad stringers. that moisture will rust the engine and its components. the floors will start to get humps from expansion and swelling. eventually you'll get soft spots that you could possibly step through. it's also possible for the engine to shift on its mounts...that's your biggest risk.

sybrmike
01-20-2010, 06:13 PM
I feel your pain. I picked mine up (fortunately,for much less than 4k) knowing that it was gonna need some serious time and $ to fix it up to my desires. I thought I was gonna get off lucky (or at least put off a stringer job for a few seasons) since the driveline mounts were all tight. However after my discovery of rotted wood and wet foam below the gas tank, my mind races at the horrors that may be lurking below. Since I was planning on completely redoing the interior and floor anyway, now I figure why not just go all the way from the beginning. Why risk having to pull up all the new work in the middle of the ski season if the mounts decide to finally let go...

Sure, for 10k you could have bought a "better" boat, but not neccessarily without it's own unknown issues waiting to show themselves at the most inopportune time - just a fact of buying used. I'm consoling myself in that this way I will know this boat after it's all done & it will be done right (at least to my abilities). This will minimize unforseen issues down the road & I'll know how to fix it when something does occur - cause it will - it's a boat - damn tempermental beasts.

Okie Boarder
01-20-2010, 07:32 PM
B.O.A.T. = Break Out Another Thousand

It will be worth everything you put into it in the end...to you! The memories and good times on the water can't have a price tag put on them. Although several people I know are watching in amazement as I rebuild mine, I feel good about the fact that when it's done the boat is solid. And, I don't have a boat payment like some of them do. ;-)

Just gather up the facts on what you need to do and start getting it going. The quicker you get started the quicker you will be finished. One thing that really helps, emotionally, is to just take it one step at a time. Don't worry too much about what is a month or two down the road, just complete the tasks you need to move you forward today and this week.

This summer, when you're sitting on the lake enjoying your fully rebuilt boat, you'll be glad you got it done.

chautauquasun
01-20-2010, 10:32 PM
Just saw your thread...welcome to the Supra floor and stringer club. I bought mine two seasons ago knowing that the stringers and floors were going to need replaced. I got through two seasons with mine but know it probably would not make another summer. My floors are not that bad but the stringers around the engine mounts are shot. I could tighten mine up but the would come loose.

Not sure about your mounts but on mine there are two bolts on top and a bolt hole on the bottom of the mount. I was able to put in some newer long lag bolts on the top and put in lag bolt on the bottom of the mount where there had not been a bolt previously...I was able to find some good wood and was able to tighten them up. That got me through the summer. Check your fiberglass under your mounts if you find that it is dented in or sagging slightly under the mount then your wood is rotten. Like I said I took the chance this last summer and ran it but by the end of the summer the engine would shake pretty good at low RPM do to the weak stringers. Mine is going in for a complete stringer and floor rebuild.

If the stringers aren't sagging and you can get your bolts to tighten up maybe try running it for the summer. By the end of the summer you will know if you want to rebuild it or not.

Regarding your starter issue...my recommendation would be to buy a new one from db electrical for $59. I had big issues with mine not starting when hot. I bought this starter and it solved all of my starting issues. It is a high torque starter with a 1 year warranty. very easy to install. I can't say enough about them and you can't beat the price. I am going to guess you couldn't get yours rebuilt for that price and this starter is better than the original. Here is the link if you want to check it out. The starter is on the left side bottom of the engine if you are looking from the front to the back of the boat. Like Salty said...it will have a big red wire going to it from the battery.

http://www.dbelectrical.com/Items/sfd0001%20-%20reman-with%20wiring%20kit?&caSKU=sfd0001%20-%20reman-with%20wiring%20kit&caTitle=Mercruiser%20Marine%20OMC%20CW%20Starter%2 0Ford%20Engine%203205-Marine%20RemanSFD0001

Good luck...if you love the boat like all of us on here love ours...its worth every penny.

tallnfast
01-20-2010, 11:44 PM
What a support group!

So I drilled 3 holes, one was Niagra Falls, two were dry.
I now see the wood is wet, and so is the foam in visible areas.
My plans as of tonight (which may change) 1. use larger Lag bolts and hope for a more secure fit 2. Monitor it all summer 3. Drill additional holes to help drainaige (not sure if that would help) need help with #3.

Prior to the above plans I will have to bring the boat to a professional to get an honest answer to my dilema. If they think it is safe for at least one season I will enjoy it this summer and then evaluate whether I like the boat at the end of the season or not. If so I invest the 2-5K in stringers/floors.

See the pictures of the side of the engine stringer after I chipped a little away, the rear transom visible water, and the transom stringer end
also here is a short video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMonusI_9tQ

Here is another link of the boat overview, sorry for the poor camera work
http://www.youtube.com/user/tallnfast


Does anyone else know any "band aids" for this problem?

dshaff24
01-21-2010, 08:30 PM
All I can say is "Welcome to the club" I believe there is 5 of us with overhauls just this winter and im sure there should be more but they probally our just dreading the idea!

As far as cheap fixes the only things I thought of would be to see if you could tear up the floor and try to bolt and nut the lower mount hole to the stringer with reinforcements on on the outerside of the motor mount stringer, Then Ive been looking at is and I don't think that is possible, Then I thought maybe reinforce the stringers with stainless and bolt nut everything,, Then I decided that would probally raise the motor which in return would throw off the alignment to much, THEN I thought maybe to put bigger lags in like you said and some epoxy! Turns out that I decided I enjoy boating to much to worry about my motor ripping out so my boats in 2 pieces as I type!

oh and it looks to me like your floor was redone and the stringers was left alone! Any chance when they redid the floor the put the wood under the gunwhales and to the actaul side of the boat?

Im going to check your vid out to see if I can help ya any here in a min

purple boat
01-21-2010, 09:30 PM
The stringers are something I can't help you with, unfortunately. Everyone is right in that a boat is a hole in the water you throw money into, but the first time you take it out (and get back under your own power) it will be worth it. All boats break and have some problems (it's written somewhere), when you put it back together, you will find most of them and fix them before they kill a day on the water.

Once the basic stuff is put back together, you can put most of the less critical stuff back in the way you want it. When I had my interior redone, I wish I had thought it out better; I would have made some changes in the way the interior is set up. Once the stringers and floor are back in, look at some of the listings on this site and spend some time sitting in your boat. I wish I had set up my back seat differently to fit ballast better and I should have opened the area behind the spotter's seat down to the floor. When everything is apart is the time to re-design it. Take your time.

When you get it all put back together, you will know how to take it all apart and put it back together, and you will have the satisfaction of knowing you did it.

docdrs
01-22-2010, 12:46 AM
I watched your videos Tall, and have read what alot of you guys do with your older supras and i am very impressed as to what you guys do. I'm a diy guy myself and will try just about anything. Personally i guess i'm lucky i'll never have to do this but there is definitely a wealth of info her for you Tall. I think we need a rebuild section. Tall ,your vids are good and hope these experienced guys can help ya. I think i'd be taking it to viper for the 5000 make over..... because it would take me forever to do the job...but it all comes down to how much time and love ya have. I always loved watching This Old House, now i have This Old Boat. I hope all goes well

Heres one rebuild that took the guy 4 weeks....i'd like to know the number of hours
https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?t=4177

Okie Boarder
01-22-2010, 01:25 AM
WOW! That's a lot of water coming out of that hole. I didn't have even that much water coming out when I tore into mine. There's some band-aids that you can do, but I'd be leary. Were you able to see what the motor does when you engage it in gear, give it throttle, then let off? The amount of movement that occurs when you do that would tell you a lot as to how long you have. Mine moved ~1/8?" at the beginning of the season and over ~1/4" by the end when I decied to park it and start the rebuild.

csuggs
01-22-2010, 11:50 AM
Tall - I drilled the same "test holes" as you last year and had a similar amount of water coming out - maybe more. I am a do-it-yourself kind of person just as many others - built my home and garage, and was a licensed general contractor until 2 years ago. However, I was not about to tackle the stringer project by myself. I figured I could have it done professionally for a reasonable price as compared to replacing the boat. That is why I drove 8-hours last month to take my boat to Viper Customs. To me, it's worth it.
I admire the guys that do the job themselves, and maybe if I was younger I'd do the same. But it is a big job and not for everybody. ;)

tallnfast
01-22-2010, 11:26 PM
Hey Guys;

I checked around for someone who knows something about stringer in the area. Looked at other forums and found someone who had success with Sexton Marine in Bristol. I found a forum that and there was a guy with a correct craft that used him and said they did good work at a great price.

I called them and others, long story short this guy will do it for $2000.
This price includes carpet, but i need to remove and re-install the engine, which is fine.
So at first i was apprehensive because of the low price...so sent him pics of the boat and then compiled a list of questions from my research. We discussed new holes for drainage, using treated lumber, painting the bilge, taking pictures, floatation removing the deck, fiberglassing over, his past experience. He knew everything and i was very satisfied with his knowledge and experience. He sent me pictures of previous boats he did. I am going to go there next weekend to drop off the boat. He did say he will need about 4 weeks to do the process as it takes a while.

Even though it's cheap, it's still 2K i didn't expect.... I will keep you all posted. Thanks for all the help,(encouragement)

ngavchris
01-23-2010, 08:24 AM
Make sure he is willing to take pictures of every step he takes. Once it is all covered up you never know what you got. If I lived that close to Donnie or Viper, I would be using someone who knows Supras.

csuggs
01-23-2010, 08:55 AM
Make sure he is willing to take pictures of every step he takes. Once it is all covered up you never know what you got. If I lived that close to Donnie or Viper, I would be using someone who knows Supras.

What chris said.

Okie Boarder
01-23-2010, 11:46 AM
I would agree on the pictures. If it were me, I'd want to see pictures like that of other projects to make sure he did it right. My main concern is that price seems low. I'm going to spend nearly that much on materials. I could cut some corners to save cost which would allow labor costs to be covered. So, ask him what corners he cuts to get that price down, if you know what I mean.

tallnfast
01-23-2010, 02:54 PM
Yes, as i mentioned in the previous post, he will be taking pictures for me through the whole process. I will ask him about "Cutting Corners", however when speaking with him, he was very knowledgable. I will make sure he does the job proper. It's also a huge price difference between his 2K and the others around here at 5K.
But.... yes, I will do everything I can to ensure he is doing it right. I am even going to go there halway through the process to inspect and learn.

I will keep you all in the loop. So in the meantime I will work on the seats.

Thanks for everyone's input, it has certainly helped!

tallnfast
01-31-2010, 08:54 PM
So... I was going to take the boat in this Saturday, but we got hit by a snowstorm, i got over 9 inches at my place... so it will have to wait another week.

I had more time to to replace the rotted wood on the back of my seat cushions, see pictures!

purple boat
02-04-2010, 08:09 PM
I'd say that wood was a little shot out.

Salty87
02-07-2010, 11:01 PM
i'd drop by there every week. you want to make sure all of the old foam and stringers come out, that the new stringers are encapsulated completely with glass, that new foam isn't poured in clogging up drainage, that the new floor is glassed over...lots of stuff.

buying glass and resin in bulk is alot cheaper but at $2k there's not much room to pay overhead and still make money on the job if you're running a business. even doing this as a 'backyard' re-builder would be tough at that price.

tallnfast
04-06-2010, 02:40 PM
Hey guys;

Next questions are:
what kind of oil?
HOw much?
filter?

Transmission fluid:
What kind
generally how much
is there a transmission filter?

Thanks!

purple boat
04-06-2010, 11:27 PM
Hunt around on the bulletin board for "service manual". Someone has a link to an outside web site that has the PCM manuals for the transmission and your motor. For oil, I think it is 4 quarts plus one for the filter for five total. Everyone argues about what weight oil, I run 10/40 in mine, but my motor is 22 years old. For the transmission, PCM calls for Dexron ATF or type A fluid. My trans filter is at the back of the transmission where the fluid line goes into the transmission case. when you remove the line, you can remove the fitting and the filter slides right out. I am not sure how much trans fluid you need to put in; check the dipstick as you fill the trans. If you cannot find the above referenced link on the bulletin boards, you can buy a service manual. "Inboard engine, transmission, and drive" is published by Clymer (I think they do the Chilton guides for cars). The oil filter is the same as for a Ford truck. The fuel filter (if you have one it will probably be mounted to the stringer below the port side exhaust manifold) is not a car part! It is a Fram filter, but I do not know what the part # is. Skidim.com has the correct filter. Clean your spark arrestor with carb cleaner and then let it dry completely before re-installing it. I usually go through most of a can on mine. I spray it and junk just keeps coming out... any other questions?

tallnfast
04-12-2010, 12:04 PM
thanks for the help.
got the motor out of the boat, cleaned it, in the process of changing the oil, filter, transmission fluid, spark plugs, wires, new starter, new relay... and other small stuff....it's getting there, long process...

however i am enjoying it, learning a lot.... need more space and more time!

purple boat
04-13-2010, 01:16 AM
The blue hose that goes to the rear of the transmission on the starboard side of the trans is the one that you remove to get to the transmission filter. Pull it out, clean it, and slide it back in. much easier to get to when the motor is out. And it won't make a mess in your bilge. While you are working on the motor, put in an electronic ignition if it does not already have one installed. Under $100, and definitely worth it.

tallnfast
04-13-2010, 12:50 PM
Last night took the rub rail off, and all 100 rivets!

It was appearant that the deck has already been off due to all the extra rivet holes.
Waiting in line for the A Frame hoist to remove the deck and acess the damage.
So....still unsure if some stringers got repaired, and some other not...only time will tell.

I have decided not to put back on the old tower. Anyone have a nicer one for sale that will fit?

dshaff24
04-13-2010, 05:16 PM
Check out ebay for a krypt tower, I picked up mine cheap

mapleleaf
04-13-2010, 08:14 PM
Those krypt towers haven't been back since you bought yours....believe me I've been looking........
Aerial seems to be the next best bang for your cheap buck tower.....

Okie Boarder
04-14-2010, 12:29 PM
I got my Aerial Airborne from onlyinboards. Ian gave me a good deal...matched the current ebay pricing. You can get a good tower for $700-900. You might check with Ian and see what he can do for you. They sell the Aerial and Krypt towers.

tallnfast
04-14-2010, 01:45 PM
thanks, i like those aerials,
i am thinking about two options
1. buy a cheaper extended ski pylon for the summer
2. save money to buy the aerial tower

i couldn't click on your pics to make okie and dsf24 to check out the profile of your tower to get an idea, can you email me or let me know how to blow up your pic? thanks,
andrew
[email protected]

Okie Boarder
04-14-2010, 04:55 PM
I'll post some pics for you pretty soon once I have mine installed. It should be in the next couple weeks.

mapleleaf
04-14-2010, 08:02 PM
Tall...if you're in TN you should ask Jasonba1 about towers...I remember him mentioning something about the manufacturer's down there having blemished towers every once in a while. I'm pretty sure Monster Towers are made down there......

tallnfast
04-14-2010, 09:55 PM
Thanks for the info. I will ask him about the towers.

Got somebody coming by tommorow to buy mine for $500, we'll see if he'll buy it.

Progress on the boat:
As you know by now, i am re-doing the stringers. To be honest, i took the cheap route and am basically working with a shop to do the stringers, glass work, engine work, and a bunch of misc. things.
I have to have the headache of doing the crappy stuff (like tonight i dug out the saturated foam between the rotten stringers)

Even though the shop I am working with are slow and someting similiar to the Osbournes, and they like to bust out the Milwaukee's Best every night, it is great life experience and I am learning a lot about the "process"

The A frame to pull the deck was still occupied so we cut a large piece out of the floor to inspect the stringer.......Survey says....Stringers are rotten and the majority of the foam is wet.

Tommorow hopefully the A-Frame is available and we can start the seperation.
It is clear The deck was pulled apart prior, they replaced the floor, left the wet foam and wet/rotten stringer the same, and only re-glassed the top of the new floor, not the bottom of the new floor, so even the bottom of the new wood is bad....

Does everyone put new foam back down? If so were can you buy it cheap? Or what can use an alternative? Has anyone put back the old foam after it was dried out?

tallnfast
04-15-2010, 06:52 AM
2348

2349

2350

saltare inverts
04-15-2010, 09:12 AM
If i was to rebuild the stringers i would modify the placement. Seems like a wonderfull place to put hard tanks for ballast.

Okie Boarder
04-16-2010, 01:06 PM
You're off to a good start. It seems kind of weird looking at your pictures since you're at the beginning the same time I'm at the end.

I went no foam, after I already poured a few areas and changed my mind. US Composites has the foam for a pretty good price.

tallnfast
04-16-2010, 02:03 PM
got the deck off last night.
As you know I am saving some money by using a local shop and doing some of the work myself...which is fine.

However the shop is a riot...it is a father son operation and it could be a reality show like the Osbournes'. It's a lot of swearing, aurguing about the "best" way, chain smoking, and drinking Milwaukee's best light.

See one of the pictures of the owner....you'll understand.
However, they are simply some good ole boys who know a lot about boats.

I decided to sell my crappy tower for now, and save money for a better tower next year, or buy a used extended ski pylon for this year.

I'm enjoying the long process.....and drinking a lot of Milwaukee's Best...Unleash the Beast!

Okie Boarder
04-16-2010, 04:14 PM
I wonder why Supra ran the carpet all the way up the wall like that? Mine was like that too. Seems like a waste. I'm going to just go up into the v and a couple inches up the wall. Whatever still needs to be covered in the bow storage I'll just piece in there.

tallnfast
04-18-2010, 12:17 AM
I got talked into replacing the rub rail today.

Guy told me the classic line "If you've done all this, why not just do this too"

Anyone replace thier own with something good or good value?

I was amazed at some of the prices of them.... Anyone know a good value one that still looks good.

Open to all ideas... Thanks!

mapleleaf
04-18-2010, 07:47 PM
Jim at Viper sent me replacement rail last year, I went with flexible one that was already on there....the nose of the bow was the trickiest, but with two guys not that bad (heat gun on low)...It really was amazing how much of an improvement it made over the old beat up stuff.....
Turns out I also need to watch whose docking her....new stuff got a couple dings I'm not pleased about.......
Not to mention one of my gear head buddies who hammered the throttle putting her on the trailer.....Anybody know how to straighten my front trailer guides??? They're a "little" flaired now!!!!!

chautauquasun
04-18-2010, 11:19 PM
Check with Jim at viper....I ordered a black one from Jim. I had looked at replacing the aluminum rail with the black insert but the cost was considerably higher than the black. Also the black is more like the later model supras. Jim can hook you up.

tallnfast
04-20-2010, 03:32 PM
Yep Jim hooked me up.
$175 for black rail and black insert, or $350 for black rail and stainless insert

I am going to go the cheaper route with the black on black. Either way it will look much better than what i have now!

Jim is a nice guy, he knows his Sh#t

zalamander
04-22-2010, 04:04 PM
I just ordered mine today too.
He is a great guy.
I am hoping that by ordering this a month in advance, I'm giving him enough time to get it here.

sybrmike
04-22-2010, 07:36 PM
Yup, me too. Supposedly my box of goodies is packed up & ready to ship out from Viper after weeks of phone tag. I'll mark it on the calander & see what happens.

sybrmike
04-22-2010, 07:40 PM
Forgot to say it, but Jim is a super nice guy to talk to, loaded with info, & freely gives advice. I'm happy to send business to folks like that (even if there are delays - within reason...)

tallnfast
04-22-2010, 10:02 PM
Stopped by Viper today and talked with Jim... and bought a rub rail for a good price. Also told him about my rebuild and we talked a while.

Anyway, i took off the swim platform brackets, the trim tab brackets, the trim tab, and even the muffler pieces.

NOw... does anyone have advice on putting back and sealing.... going to buy and use a lot of new stainless bolts/screws.

Trim tab was a little bent...

The parts/bolts/screws below the water line make me very scared. Any advice would be appreciated..

Also advice on this muffler... im going to re-install the original stuff and was told that sometimes they leak.. so that is the reason why i basically removed everything from the transom... want to ensure if i am replacing the stringers that there will be no more water getting back in.

also any advice for cleaning the trim tabs, swim platform brackets, and other hardware?

Thanks... all your advice is appreciated... remember i am a novice... and am learning as i go

Okie Boarder
04-23-2010, 11:08 AM
I'm not familiar with the supertrapp exhaust so I'm sure others can chime in. One the rest of the hardware, new pieces are probably a good idea. Make sure to use 5200 when you are putting things back together. Goop it on good and you should be in good shape. Like I'm going to do, you might plan a lake test before all the interior is in so you can check for any of those areas leaking and correct them before everything is completely back together.

saltare inverts
04-23-2010, 06:42 PM
Were did you get the new Flappers from?

csuggs
04-24-2010, 08:05 AM
Those flappers are identical to the ones Jim installed on my boat. I can't wait to hear how they sound.

The reason the super trapps leak is because the outer flange that attaches to the transom has a collar that slips into the 3" exhaust pipe that comes from the motor. The problem is that everyone seals up the flange where it attaches to the transom, but they neglect to seal the collar to the exhaust (or they neglect to reseal when needed). That's one way that water gets under the deck and ruins all of our stringers. Super trapps look and sound cool, but I would never re-use them for this reason.

purple boat
04-24-2010, 10:54 AM
Since you already have the boat in pieces, you might want to look into a hydraulic or electric trim tab (around 5 bills). The hard part about putting one in seems to be everything in the way when you are doing the job. One of these days I want to put one on mine so I can make adjustments on the fly. That is a TON of work you are putting into that boat! You will ove it when you are done, and it should last for a long time, as evidenced by all the old Supras on this site!

dshaff24
04-24-2010, 11:40 AM
Since you already have the boat in pieces, you might want to look into a hydraulic or electric trim tab (around 5 bills). The hard part about putting one in seems to be everything in the way when you are doing the job. One of these days I want to put one on mine so I can make adjustments on the fly. That is a TON of work you are putting into that boat! You will ove it when you are done, and it should last for a long time, as evidenced by all the old Supras on this site!

I had them on my previous boat and they made it nice, Now on the supra what would it do? Push the nose down? or raise it? I read on here that after its level with the hull that any higher creats cavitation? Is that true?



SUPER TRAPP oem exhaust - Chris who did my stringers put 3m 5200 inside where the exhaust meets the trapps, Is this the correct was of sealing them? Also I was told to add more to it before I put it in the water

csuggs
04-24-2010, 12:37 PM
Yes, that is the correct way to seal them - use 3M 5200 on the flange and where the exhaust tubing and super trapp collar meet. You must check the integrity of the seal periodically. Because of heat and vibration the seal is prone to seperate over time - that when the water gets in.

tallnfast
04-24-2010, 09:08 PM
So....I was in the middle of cleaning all the transom hardware when i check my computer to check my thread to see what ya'll had to say bout the Supra Traps. I even called Donny Bennett and asked his advice, and yes he says the Flaps are only $60ish bucks, which is cool.

However my question is: Do I buy the Flaps, or re-install the original Supra Flaps and re-seal them correctly?

Is there a difference in sound?

I realize it's only $60 bucks or so, however, do i need it if i reseal correctly, do i need to spend more money?

Thanks guys for your input, everyone is really helping me out and making me think about things, and also helping me do things correctly to ensure long term boat success!

The pic is after cleaning one of the Supra Traps.

csuggs
04-25-2010, 08:16 AM
There is a definite improvement with the flaps because all you have to do is seal the flap to the transom (one time on installation) then there is a piece of 3" marine exhaust hose double-clamped to the collar on the flap. The other end of the hose is double-clamped to the stainless exhaust tubing coming from the motor. Not much chance of a leak. For inspection purposes, Jim left the floor off under the fuel tank so that if there ever was a leak in that area, you could get to it and any water that would come in from the transome would run to the bilge.
I know that there are several ways that water can get under the floor if the boat is not constructed properly, but I believe there would be a lot less of us doing stringer repairs if Supra had not used Supertrapps as original equipment. There's a reason that no one is using them today! I say ditch the Supertrapps and install flaps - after all the work and money you've spent, don't take the chance. As for sound, your boat WILL BE LOUDER with the flaps because it's like running open pipes on a race car - no restrictions. The Supertrapp baffles act like a muffler.

tallnfast
04-25-2010, 02:24 PM
I was about to clean the other nasty supra trap, and i thought i should check the forum if anyone was able to convince me one way or the other.

I'm convinced, i'm going with the new flappers. The fact of "knowning" the flapps work is worth it...plus how doesn't like the sound of a good exhaust!

Thanks for the input guys...

ngavdba, the $60 donny charges, is that just for the flappers, or is it the flappers, the extra exhaust hose and the clamps?

Thanks...
PS. anyone know if there is a better price for the 3" exhaust hoses?
Skidim seems to be the best per foot that i have found.

Flaps!

tallnfast
04-25-2010, 08:27 PM
Next question:

We are going to use as much of the old dry foam as possible.
However, i was told that we need to put new foam in the bow to ensure structural integrity.

Anyone know where i can buy marine foam on the cheap?
Thanks!

dshaff24
04-25-2010, 09:34 PM
csnuggs - I don't see a drain that would release water into your bilge in the picture~

Tallnfast - If you are doing your stringers I don't see why you wouldn't actaully remove ALL off the foam!

saltare inverts
04-25-2010, 10:06 PM
I believe the foam is there to slow down sinking if it gets to that point.

csuggs
04-26-2010, 08:08 AM
csnuggs - I don't see a drain that would release water into your bilge in the picture~

Tallnfast - If you are doing your stringers I don't see why you wouldn't actaully remove ALL off the foam!

Dshaff - the drain going to the bilge area was not installed at the time of the phote, but when I was there and took the picture, he shower where they were going to install it. The drain is also there for any water that drains out of the ski locker, onto the fuel tank and into that area. It will all go to the bilge.

Mani
04-27-2010, 12:18 PM
Well I think this thread helped me make sense of how water was getting into my boat so quickly. I was running the pump about every 20 to 30 minutes, and this exhaust deal seems to be the only logical explanation. Time to call the the shop that's doing my stringers and tell them to take care of that problem as well.

Thanks guys.

tallnfast
04-28-2010, 09:54 PM
as you may know now by reading this tread my stringer job is not ordinary. It's trying to doing it on the cheaper...or at least cheaper.
I am doing this by using a shop and shop guy who know thier stuff, however they got a lot of other boats to work on..... and well, they are good ole boys, and as i mentioned they are somewhat of thier own "reality show" similiar to the Osbournes and a wierd reality show of a unique family buisness in the South.....REmember i am from WI

Anway we had a "come to jesus" meeting today, told them we need to start moving forward with my boat ASAP.

the last 2 weeks i have had to push them to work on my boat, and most of the work has been done by me...

I know, wierd situation, hence why i keep writing about my experience doing this. If all repairs went well it would make for boring stories....

They tell me by Sunday the entire floor and stringers will be replaced and there will be a floor on Sunday...I will be there on Saturday all day to help.

I'll let you know how it goes...

Here is some pics from last night, i got there after my job ended and encouraged the guy to start working....

it's been an experience,....definetely something that i can tell my kids about!

tallnfast
04-28-2010, 09:59 PM
oh yeah, there was 15-20 year old water in the bow...or at least it smelled/looked that way...

dshaff24
04-28-2010, 11:33 PM
My bow was the the worst part of the whole stringers!! Woods just kind of turned into dust when It dried!

tallnfast
05-10-2010, 08:44 PM
Sorry for the long delay, no real progress....my guys are draggin thier feet...oh well....we are half way done with one side of the stringers....

all i can say...man it sucks...that is some shi44y work....

So i replaced the supra traps with flappers.

however i need something to cover the Bezel to cover the holes left from the supra traps.

i have the standard exhaust hole of 3"

i don't need chrome or stainless, just the "black plastic" piece would be fine...where do i find them? skidim doesn't seem to have my size?

tallnfast
05-13-2010, 08:25 AM
Can anyone advise?
Thanks!

Okie Boarder
05-13-2010, 12:08 PM
Did you check with Jim? I thought I saw them before on skidim.

tallnfast
06-09-2010, 08:11 AM
i will get pick of deck tonight, however we are getting closer
there was another lull in the action
stringers are some crappy dirty nasty work...i will never do again

stringers should be done in a few days, and the boat together next week, and within two weeks it should all be done!

dshaff24
06-10-2010, 12:48 AM
stringers are some crappy dirty nasty work...i will never do again

!

I HEAR THAT!!!! Thats why when I got to where your at I handed it over to the marina! Hell I had the boat back for a while with the stringers done and i have yet to be finished

Looking like your making some progress though! Keep the pics rolling:cool:

tallnfast
06-10-2010, 11:07 PM
Finally....started to put the hardware on the deck tonight,

stringers are about 60% done

i'm going broke by the saying "Well...if your going this far...you might as well"

getting excited

Okie Boarder
06-11-2010, 05:02 PM
You're getting close. I bet you're getting excited!

dshaff24
06-12-2010, 01:18 AM
You will be amazed what that saying will get you to do!

Okie Boarder
06-14-2010, 12:28 PM
Just watched Forrest Gump last night and it made me think of this. You know when he starts running and he keeps saying "I figured since I went this far I might as well keep on going." Too funny!

tallnfast
06-15-2010, 02:37 PM
I am going to work tonight on the floor (hopefully)

Yes, I am getting excited....

does anyone know the deadrise of an 86 supra sunsport?
I ask because my dock builder is building me a lift and would like to know, as it will help to keep the boat looking level on the lift...

any help would be appreciated

tallnfast
07-02-2010, 02:19 PM
floor and stringers are done, motor is going in today....6 months later!!!

Boy...oh boy...it has been a long process....can't wait.

If you have been following this thread you know the things i have gone through....

i basically fired the guy 3 times and each time he would start working on it again.....however after seeing the grinding and all the dirty work involved i can see why he procrastinated, somewhat anyway....it is some nasty work!

also the deck guy and the hull guy are in an aurgument and my boat is in the middle of it.... it's like a soap opera....

definetely creating some good/funny memories!

87SunSportMikeyD
07-02-2010, 03:23 PM
We're still watchin and rootin for ya!!

Okie Boarder
07-06-2010, 05:55 PM
You're getting really close. The top looks kind of funny with everything stripped off...LOL!

csuggs
07-08-2010, 03:43 PM
Lookin' goooooood! Can's wait to see it all back together!

darflinger
07-11-2010, 12:39 AM
Dude; i just finished a total, grond up resto on my 82 supra beast. all done by me. My advise- dont redo the seats without new vinyl. its relitively cheap and will really make ur boat pop. get a sewing maching, leather needels, electric stapler, and stainless staples. set up a table in ur garage and use the old vinyl as patterns. you dont deserve a old looking interior after all ur work..just sayin...

tallnfast
07-16-2010, 02:24 PM
We are so close, rub rail went on the other night, motor is in...and working, hole in the hull is getting repaired today, the gas tank was a bitch to put back in...bad news...my new carpet is already taking a beating...the shop guys did not do a great job keeping it clean...however i will clean up.

also re-secured the rudder, also noticed that i have a slight out of true in my strut...which i will replace soon...

vents were a little tricky to run, made some modifications on the observer seat, cut out an area in the storage area so we could make room for two batteries actually in the floor... pictures to follow soon

oh yeah..the rub rail went on at night with headlights shining for light...plus a few beers deep...however it is on straight, lots of bitching with 4 guys all having the best way to put it on!
it's been a very long process but we are having a blast now as we all know it is getting close to being done...I will be adding about 230 pic of the process thus for soon, i am uploading them to photobucket right now....thanks for everyones encouragement, it honestly has helped me stay committed and focused!
3609

3610

3611

tallnfast
07-16-2010, 03:10 PM
here is about 200 pics of the progress...in random order...sorry..
http://s966.photobucket.com/albums/ae146/tallnfast/


http://s966.photobucket.com/albums/ae146/tallnfast/

tallnfast
07-17-2010, 08:58 PM
Today i picked up the boat and took it too the lake to drop in the water.

The engine took a few turns to turn over due to the gas getting in the lines to the engine. The engine sounded great. shifting into gears as it should.

very happy with that! so then i took it home on the trailer to put in the upholstry and everything else! I felt like I was taking a baby home, i had a smile on my face the whole way....
It has been over 7 months since I have removed everything and it is hard, very hadrd to remember how it all goes back in.

Plus I found two immediate fixes i need to make...the doghouse is rotted where the brackets go into the doghouse base. the base is new, but the top was never re-done...I peaked at it and it looks like some is "fiberglass" and some is wood? or just wood on the bottom? has anyone ever re-done a dog house and is there anything you could tell me prior to doing??? I was scared to do it when i was doing all the other upholstry.

Plus i need to re-babricate my trailer...it will hurt my new pretty boat, especially the front where the rub rail hits my "V" trailer...

It is taking a lot longer than i thought to put it all back together...howver it is very rewarding..and fun!

thanks for your help with my question about the doghouse
will be at it all day tommorow

87SunSportMikeyD
07-19-2010, 11:47 AM
Hey she's lookin good! Gonna look thru the pics now. The doghouse should be all fiberglass, except for the base that attaches to the floor. Someone else redid their doghouse and they removed the storage compartment and replaced it with the old skool bench seat there like the old models have. Who was that again, Chataqua??

tallnfast
07-19-2010, 12:02 PM
i figured out the doghouse, i had to replace some of the wood on the bottom...

also, had to make some adjustments on the doghouse, it didn't fit 100 snuggly as it should...still working on that...

however, i am getting so excited.

all the seats are in except the front bow (which is at viper since it was too hard for me to re-do since the wood was completely rotted.

Left to do is, new bilge installed, stereo, depth hooked up, all lights operational, all gauges opertational, buff the entire boat, new carpet in the doghouse area and trim it out as i am taking off the cover, new cup holders, swim platform teaked and installed, and then install the rest of the 100 pieces of teak, install the bow seat, get some bouy's for the sides, and fix a lot of the trailer...then it's lake time!

the pic is from yesterday after i got all the seat bases lined up and all the other small things that take some time, especially if you want to do them right....

mapleleaf
07-19-2010, 10:14 PM
Hey she's lookin good! Gonna look thru the pics now. The doghouse should be all fiberglass, except for the base that attaches to the floor. Someone else redid their doghouse and they removed the storage compartment and replaced it with the old skool bench seat there like the old models have. Who was that again, Chataqua??

It was me, only I haven't stapled the vinyl on yet cuz it needs some tightening, it'll be cool, but I kinda miss the cabinet!!!!!No pics yet......

dshaff24
07-21-2010, 09:24 AM
Looking like she is finally coming together! Lots of time but when its all said and done you know everything little thing about the boat!

Okie Boarder
07-22-2010, 01:24 PM
Looking really good and looking like you are getting the final touches on. Definitely a good feeling isn't it?

tallnfast
07-26-2010, 09:48 AM
So...I was able to take the boat out for the first time this weekend for a trail run....We had to adjust the throttle, the idle, a loose motor bolt, a loose bilge pump, some amp noise, and a few other things.
But... the bugs are getting worked out....

Some questions I have for you all...

1. the drip from the strut/shaft is a continuous stream. How do I stop this?
What is the drip rate?
2. The gas gauge doesn't work, how do I correct? Is it worth all the work?
3. The steering is very tight, how do I adust/lube/grease? and with what?
4. Where can i find the old Supra graphics with the wave?
5. I need a cheap trailer with disc brakes? anyone have one or know where I can get one...mine is a POS

Also, restoring all the teak wood in the boat...it will look great

Oh yeah...my wife learned how to back the trailer up this weekend!

My exhaust sounds much better with the thru hull flanges and flappers rather than the supra traps!

87SunSportMikeyD
07-26-2010, 11:27 AM
Ok I'm not a mechanic but I think I can help a lil bit

1. there are two kinda of shaft seals. There is a brass nut that can be tightened and seals using wax-covered string. Just tighten the nut untill drip slows to 1 drip every 3-5seconds. The other kind is a rubber boot around the shaft with a hose clamp. This kind should not drip at all. Tighten or replace.

2. I THINK you just need a new sending unit for the gas guage. I think my oil sending unit went out I need to replace that one too. Thanks for the reminder!

3. Steering is lubed with marine grease. GO to the auto store and get a grease gun and it should come with large and small fittings (called zerks). You need the small ones. They should also carry a tube of marine grease. There are 2-3 zerks on your steering cable, they are in the back near the rudder shaft. Should be one on the rudder assembly, one on the steering cable near the rudder assembly, and MAYBE another one but could be anywhere. Fill untill cant fill any more. Then turn the wheel back and forth and wipe up the grease or it will fill your bilge and be gross. You may just need a new steering cable too.

dshaff24
07-27-2010, 12:41 AM
Your gas sending unit just needs attention, You could buy a new one but I fixed mine,

All I did was removed the sending unit from the tank and took a ohm meter to check it, Mine wasn't showing the ohms changing so I took carb cleaner and cleaned up the contacts and it now reads like new! I think it was 33 ohms to 230? Its been a while!

Now your driveshaft seal, I can only speak for mine which is the rubber pss seal I believe its called? Here is what happend to me

I put the boat in after the rebuild and Water poured in through the seal! Turned out the clamp was 2 tight so I loosend it until the water slowed down! Well I docked the boat and checked to make sure the bilge worked because it was late and I left it over night on the dock! Next Morning I went down to check it and It quit leaking after the it was in the water over night! I still have no issues

NeilMcg
08-03-2010, 10:05 PM
Hey man, I read your entire thread and I'm amazed at what you were able to do. You did a great job. I am about to take the plunge myself on my 87 Sunsport this fall for next year. I'll start a thread with pics once I get underway.
Do you still have the dimensions for your stringer templates? I'm asking because I want to do a cost analysis for on various wood options.
Thanks

tallnfast
08-04-2010, 01:07 PM
thanks for the response. I do not have the dimensions. We actually kept half of the old fiberglass and used that as a template.
Meaning we cut the stringer in half, took out the wood, replaced with new marine plylood, and then glassed the whole thing back up.

I am now getting the whole thing buffed, working on staining all the teak wood, and fixing the numerous small things.

Attached is a pic from last nights teak oiling process...i will be putting 3 coats on of the good stuff, forget what it's called, however i did sand thoroughly then used the teak cleaner/brightner, as i was told it makes a difference.

I will post final pictures soon. You can do it, just be prepared for the stringer work which is very dirty, very dirty! also you need some sort of lifting device to get the deck off...also be sure to not make your stringers too tall, otherwise your deck will not sit on it right and will really mess things up with the rub rail.

Good Luck

tallnfast
08-25-2010, 02:43 PM
Hey guys....

I am almost completely done (for now)

Got around to naming the boat....Boomps, after my late Uncle Boomps....one of the funniest, greatest guys I have met!

Naming the boat after something special really makes me have even more pride in the boat

dshaff24
08-25-2010, 11:55 PM
Hey guys....

I am almost completely done (for now)

Got around to naming the boat....Boomps, after my late Uncle Boomps....one of the funniest, greatest guys I have met!

Naming the boat after something special really makes me have even more pride in the boat

nice... so more details and pics... Whats left to do?

87SunSportMikeyD
08-26-2010, 03:06 PM
Clint thanks for the sending unit tip, I will try that.

Blackntan90
08-27-2010, 09:30 PM
WOW! I think it's awesome that people think these old boats are worth putting all the time, trouble, and money into! We need more pic's!

tallnfast
09-03-2010, 11:32 AM
got an oil leak somewhere????
gotta find it, plus the little metal piece on the oil fill cap broke off into the "valve" area i think that's what it's called, so i gott find that too!
also anyone know the drip rate for the shaft?
and does it only suppose to drip when turning?

boat.....always something, however after i figure out, i will know, which is kind of half the fun...plus not being too mechanically inclined adds a little spice to the fix....i'll get it done though....

plus yesterday we used my boat in a TV commercial, i will post the commercial when it's done...

tallnfast
09-03-2010, 11:35 AM
here is a picture from the lake yesterday
as you can see i went with the "less is better" look

Blackntan90
09-08-2010, 08:51 PM
You can place a piece of cardboard under the motor to kinda zero in on the leak- at least it will give you a starting point. A T.V. commercial?!?! Awesome way to represent! The drip rate is aprox 3-4 drops a minute I think, and it should only drip when turning. Boat looks great!

dshaff24
09-08-2010, 11:02 PM
here is a picture from the lake yesterday
as you can see i went with the "less is better" look

Is that your place in the picture? Looks cool.. Boats looking good

tallnfast
12-20-2010, 09:34 PM
Well.... it has been a while since I posted anything.
I actually haven't gotten my boat much on the water this year due to life getting in the way...anyway... the place that helped me with the stringers and misc work now has a commercial.

it was part of the deal i worked out with them since i am in local tv.

anyway, it's pretty cool. so proud of the boat, yes that is me the goofy one driving

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBgTlR9Kv6s