Wakeboard tower install questions

[Kip]

So I started working on installing the tower on the boat (88 Mariah) today. All along I had figured that the drivers side was going to be the pain in the butt mount point to get to. Well, I definitely had that wrong. After tearing into it, I found that it is the only mounting point I can actually easily get to. So now I am looking for some pointers from those who mounted their own towers.

Basically the only way I can see getting to the points I need to get to is by drilling some 4" holes; one behind the passenger side bow seat, and two behind the side panels where the speakers are mounted. It seems this is the only solution but I have no desire to drill a giant hole in my boat. So I am either looking for confirmation that this is how it has to be done or someone with 4' arms.

The tower I have has a pretty long stance, I think like 75" front to back stance. It is made by TL wake board towers and looks very similar to the Aerial Airborne tower.

[saltare inverts]

I had to do the same. I even had one predrilled from factory. It will not hurt anything. Just drink a beer and go for it. I used four inch holes but was tuff to get my arm through. It will work. I suggest making large backing plated out of 1/4 inch aluminum. I made mine about 4 by 8 inches to spread stress out on fiberglass. Not a rule just seemed to make sense while I was in there.

[Kip]

SI, Thanks for the reply, that is what I needed to hear. Bring on the Miller Light were drilling some holes:).

[tg0824SSVGG]

Can you possibly put the holes where you could then fill them with an in-boat speaker?

REMEMBER to run the drill in REVERSE until you are thru the gelcoat ... otherwise you
will get chips and cracks that you don't want

[Kip]

thanks for the idea. Where I need to drill in the back side panels would be a perfect place for more 6" speakers.

Do you mean to run the hole saw in revers also?

[michael hunter]

I cut the access holes with a rotozip tool . I then made a backer out of 3/4 plywood covered in fiberglass and epoxied it to the back side of the hole for added strength.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn127/suprahunter/SupraPicture017-1.jpg

I reinstalled the cutouts screwing them to the backer board.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn127/suprahunter/SupraPicture016.jpg

The aluminum backers were 1/8" thick I made new ones 1/4" thick . I also made 3/4'' plywood backer plates and epoxied them to the underside of the gunnels then the aluminum plates on top of the wood.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn127/suprahunter/SupraPicture021.jpg

Make sure you countersink all the holes in the gelcoat to prevent stress cracks later.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn127/suprahunter/SupraPicture019.jpg

[tg0824SSVGG]

yes, run the hole saw -- or any drill bit in reverse, just thru the gel - then go forward.

Beware, most hole saws will loosen when run in reverse (unscrew on the arbor) -- just
watch for it - and keep it tight.

[Kip]

Michael, Thanks for the tips and the pics. Sweet danger cart in the background of the first pic:D

Thanks for the reply on the hole saw I will definitely keep an eye on it.

[saltare inverts]

Uhh Kip. Pics please.

[Kip]

I will be sure to post some pics soon. Hopefully next week will be install time.

[BigCity444]

I put up a MT2 and mounted the front feet in front of the windshield inside the grab rail and for the backs, I used the rear speakers to get access.

[Okie Boarder]

I put my base on this weekend. It was easy for me since the top is off. But, I did think about access to tighten up later or remove, if needed. There are a couple access areas that are already there. I might need to make them bigger. Definitely put in access wherever you need it.

Looking forward to your pics!