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View Full Version : Its wet sanding time..



jet
04-07-2010, 09:31 AM
Im going to start wet sanding today and I need to know 2 things?? 1-is how do I get my old yellow, and orange stripes off? And can I use my sanding mouse or does it have to be done by hand? ANY OTHER TIPS?? Jet

Salty87
04-07-2010, 10:44 AM
the stripes can be a pain. some people swear by a tool for the drill, an eraser. i've never tried it but they claim it takes all the glue off too. i peeled mine off. it took awhile and then you have glue residue. acetone, goo gone, whatever your favorite solvent is.

i'd sand by hand so you don't run the risk of sanding thru anywhere.

jasonba1
04-07-2010, 02:12 PM
did get the stickers off use a heat gun and then I use acetone to get the sticky part off

dshaff24
04-07-2010, 04:35 PM
I have the air tool with what they call an eraser on it, It works great! My other option is use a real heat gun not a hair dryer then a solvent to clean up the mess

csuggs
04-07-2010, 05:19 PM
I did what jasnonba1 did. I would sand by hand.

Kip
04-07-2010, 06:48 PM
I removed my stickers with an eraser wheel on a drill. Take it slow and steady so you don't burn the gel coat and it will still take hours less than a heat gun and thinner.

chautauquasun
04-07-2010, 09:01 PM
I dont mean to hijack the thread but I also have questions about wet sanding. If you wet sand the boat how long with the finish go until it needs sanded again? Does wet sanding give you a better result than using a rubbing compound with buffing wheel?

jet
04-07-2010, 09:20 PM
It should last another 10 years or so, It depends on how much sun exposure its getting. Wetsanding is for boats that are past the polishing stage. Mine is more faded on one side because of the direction of the shore on the river I use to beach my boat on. So Its time to wetsand. Polish yours 1st if It doesnt look like a new boat again, Its time for you to wetsand.

chautauquasun
04-07-2010, 11:17 PM
time to wet sand. Like hearing that it will hold up for a while.

Okie Boarder
04-08-2010, 11:46 AM
I didn't do any sticker removal, but it sounds like you have some good suggestions. I'd definitely do the sanding by hand.

JONBLARC7
04-08-2010, 02:02 PM
I used the eraser tool and it worked great. I didn't know what I was doing at first so I burnt the gel in a couple places but wet sanding takes that right off anyway. I did half of one side on my nautique, until I couldn't take burning the crap out of my finger any more with the heat gun. So I went and bought the eraser down the road and had all the sticker off in about 40 min.

saltare inverts
04-08-2010, 05:48 PM
Were can you buy this eraser?

Kip
04-08-2010, 09:36 PM
You should be able to find an eraser wheel at either a automotive paint store, automotive detailing products supplier, or possibly a store like Napa.

dusty2221
04-08-2010, 11:08 PM
Jet, how's it coming along?

csuggs
04-09-2010, 08:04 AM
I dont mean to hijack the thread but I also have questions about wet sanding. If you wet sand the boat how long with the finish go until it needs sanded again? Does wet sanding give you a better result than using a rubbing compound with buffing wheel?

Dan - You will wet sand lightly with lots of water and then use a compound like 3M Perfect-It. After that, a good carnuba wax for boats. Then its just a matter of maintaining the finish. I have a friend that actually uses Pledge on his hull after about every use, and it looks really good - he's done it since the boat was new in 87.

JONBLARC7
04-09-2010, 08:43 AM
I got mine at Napa

jet
04-11-2010, 11:30 AM
Man..Its not even out of the garage yet. my advertising started last week and Im so damn busy. But maybe this week??? I'll let everyone know. Jet

jet
05-01-2010, 12:16 PM
OK, Im ready to get back on it. Anybody know how long I need to sand??

mapleleaf
05-01-2010, 08:03 PM
whole boat, should be until you can't feel ur arms......

jet
05-02-2010, 05:50 PM
Updated pictures on my New Looking boat. 1/2 way done. Passenger side finished. I wet sanded with 600-1500 and then 2000 and then buffed with a teflon dupont. No compounding needed. It just added a xtra step. What do you think? Jet

Okie Boarder
05-02-2010, 06:27 PM
You've got it shining pretty good. I'm sure the pictures don't do it justice. I didn't go past 1000 grit, but I used compound. 2000 grit and compound are essentially the same.

I just wet sanded until it looked like I got the oxidation off and saw a little of the gel color in the water.

jet
05-02-2010, 06:49 PM
I bought a high speed buffer but i cant keep any pads on it? It spins them until they blow apart. The tie string makes it unbalanced and tears it up fast! Does anyone know where I can get a 7"-8" high speed buff pad? Walmart and Auto Zone didnt have them. Thanks

Mani
05-02-2010, 06:49 PM
Wow, what a shine, Jet. It looks great.

Kip
05-02-2010, 09:36 PM
You should be able to get the name of a detail supply company from guys doing detailing at your local car dealership. A wool pad will cut more for your initial buffing, then use a foam pad for light buffing and polishing. I have had best luck with the pads that use velcro to attach to a velcro backing pad on your buffer. Good luck.

jet
05-03-2010, 12:07 PM
Be VERY carefull with the heat gun. I'm going to have to replace the carpet on the fenders now. lol

Okie Boarder
05-03-2010, 01:11 PM
Check to see if you can get the velcro backer pad from 3M. I think they call it their "Hook-It" system. You can keep the back attached to the buffer and switch out polishing pads pretty easy.

87SunSportMikeyD
05-03-2010, 02:47 PM
HOLY CRAP buddy she looks AMAZING~!!!!! Cant wait for all new pictures heheh!! Remember to wipe it down every day or you will get water spots bad after two months and need a new buff and wax (DOH slaps forehead).

wotan2525
05-03-2010, 02:49 PM
Check to see if you can get the velcro backer pad from 3M. I think they call it their "Hook-It" system. You can keep the back attached to the buffer and switch out polishing pads pretty easy.

NAPA has their own system, too -- it's much cheaper and seems like the same thing. This is without a doubt the way to go. I went through about 20 draw-string pads before I realized this!!

wotan2525
05-03-2010, 02:58 PM
Finished up buffing, waxing my boat this weekend. Came back to a good shine. Hard to tell in this picture because it was overcast -- I took the picture to check the install on my new cargo bimini.... Looking straight!!

87SunSportMikeyD
05-03-2010, 06:02 PM
DUDE! Have you always had that tower? Titan I or II? Looks great, and what about the bimini? Is it a Monster bimini? Small or medium? It looks KICKASS! I would love one on my boat but I need to totally collapse the tower flat (everything below the windshield line) to get it onto my boat lift (hmm maybe I should raise the canpoy).

wotan2525
05-03-2010, 07:03 PM
DUDE! Have you always had that tower? Titan I or II? Looks great, and what about the bimini? Is it a Monster bimini? Small or medium? It looks KICKASS! I would love one on my boat but I need to totally collapse the tower flat (everything below the windshield line) to get it onto my boat lift (hmm maybe I should raise the canpoy).

Yep. That's the tower that came with my boat. I've never figured out if it's a Titan tower, though I suspect it isn't. It's much larger (taller) than the other Titans I've seen (and actually -- it's too tall, that picture makes it look somewhat normal. It's actually freakishly tall.) It's also 3" tubing. Beefy as hell. I need some titan tower mounts though -- the ones that are on there are pretty amateurish and I think the titan brand ones would work if I could actually find some.

It's a monster bimini. I lucked out and convinced them to sell me a demo model that they had there without canvas. I'll be having red canvas custom made -- the black just wasn't an option for a boat with almost no black anywhere.

The good thing about having a TALLLLL tower? I've got the tower, then my speakers, then enough room for a tube, then my bimini, and still a few inches of clearance between my 6'2" head and the bottom of the bimini. How nice is that?!

I'll be sure to post some new pictures when I have the tower speakers back up and everything completely bolted together. So far -- VERY impressed with the monster bimini. The only draw back is that there are so many adjustment points (but I think that's the problem with anything "universal.")

Memmer99
05-03-2010, 07:27 PM
Jet,

That looks awsome!! I'm about a week behind you. Do you happen to know if you wet sand do you have to buff and finish right away or can I wetsand one weekend and then buff and wax the next weekend?

mapleleaf
05-03-2010, 08:55 PM
Blinded by the light, wrapped up like a deuce.....

That things gleaming...looks great......

Salty87
05-03-2010, 09:40 PM
niiiiiiiiiiice looking.

home depots around here have the velcro backed pads. near the belt sanders n stuff.

finish up with Finesse It if you want to go mr. miyagi on it. sweep the leg!

thsmith10
05-04-2010, 08:52 AM
Jet,

That looks awsome!! I'm about a week behind you. Do you happen to know if you wet sand do you have to buff and finish right away or can I wetsand one weekend and then buff and wax the next weekend?

Memmer,
On parts of my boat, I sanded it over the course of a few days and then a few days after that I got around to the buffing, polishing, and waxing. Didn't notice any difference but I did keep it covered and out of the sun when I wasn't working on it.

jet
05-04-2010, 08:54 AM
Memmer. Im sure you can do both weekends as long as Its not sitting outside and getting dirt on it.

Thanks Guys

Okie Boarder
05-04-2010, 10:39 AM
Mine was prety spread out. I think I worked on it for several weeks. Wetsanded on the weekends and buffed an hour or two at night during the week.

Memmer99
05-04-2010, 01:07 PM
Thanks for the tips guys! I do keep my boat outside all the time. Maybe a better plan is to sand and finish one side per weekend.

Memmer99
05-05-2010, 06:10 PM
One more question. I have a big jug of 3M marine restorer/wax that I bought last year. I was wondering if I can use this after the wet sand inplace of rubbing compound. Then Finesse it and wax.

jet
05-05-2010, 06:30 PM
I never liked compounding at all. Its to dry and sticky. If I were you I would just wetsand with 2000 sand paper. Its easier and it will get out more nicks and scrapes because you can see the spots through the water and you cant through the compound. Then just use any kind of easy wax you like. it will also bring out more of the old color. Jet

Gravity08
05-05-2010, 06:40 PM
Shiney! Looks like a brand new boat...

autocraft
05-05-2010, 09:11 PM
my boat is dk blue or black not sure but it looked good for ayear now its getting cloudy again thinking about a wrap any thoughts

Fainlts
05-05-2010, 10:27 PM
I decided to wet sand my 2003 LTS to remove oxidation from sun exposure. Started last week with 400, 600, 800 and started 1000 tonight. I have spent approx 25hrs sanding and i can not make enough progress to get all the oxidation or remove the color variation (ghosting) from where the decals were. Boat color is navy. A few buddies with experience with sand and buffing gel coat offered to help tonight and agreed I am wasting my time and making almost no progress. They have never seen gelcoat so hard. They primarily work on Mastercraft and Chaparral and have never have to sand below 800 to start. Anyone out there had similar experience? I have been very aggressive with the wet sanding and almost no progress. I done both by hand and small palm sander. I went to local auto paint store to make sure I had the appropriate paper and they agreed. I plan to call Skiers Choice tomorrow. Discouraged. Thanks W. Fain :o

jet
05-06-2010, 10:11 AM
Dude, I only got rid of 90-95% of the ghost stripes. You cant see them once your 3-5 ft away. My boat was rough and I only used 600-1500-2000 and only sanded in each spot for a minute or so. I say 2000 it once more and be done. Jet

jet
05-06-2010, 11:25 AM
**UPDATED PICTURES** Check them out. Anybody replaced the traction grips up front? Any pictures? Jet

dusty2221
05-06-2010, 11:45 AM
Looks like a new one

lbagby
05-06-2010, 02:11 PM
I am the original owner of an '86 comp who only did occasional waxing. But the last 15 years was extremely diffucult to give it the care it deserves. Being in Dallas I took it to a shop just east of town, Brown's Boat Repair. It was wet sanded and then waxed. The old stripes were removed and replaced with custom made to look as new as I couldn't find pre-made replacements. The owner Terry Brown just happens to be a Supra owner which is nice. Other good news is the shop is also upholstery and mechanical. A good thing too, as his guys accidentally put a 3" tear in the backseat vinyl and fixed it right up at no charge, of course, better than new. Not including stripes the refurb job was $700 including inside fiberglass, vinyl cleaning and carpet shampoo. It only included bottom sanding from what could be reached in the bow section while on the trailer. Terry said he could take it off the trailer and do the entire bottom for an additional $200. I am very pleased.

I can't figure out how to insert the photos, but send me an email to [email protected] and I'll email a couple to you.

jet
05-06-2010, 04:10 PM
Thanks Dusty...............

jzelt
05-07-2010, 02:42 PM
Very nicely done...going into business?

jet
05-12-2010, 02:23 PM
Well she's loosing her old badge, I feel bad for her. But! She's way better today. Now she does wakeboarding and skiing, well not really any skiing anymore. Its like saying, I use to be great! :( Jet

dusty2221
05-12-2010, 03:16 PM
I may have missed it in the thread, but are you finishing with 2000 grit and then rubbing compound?

jet
05-12-2010, 03:40 PM
No compound at all. I used 600-1500-2000 and then straight to the shiny wax. Jet

techsledder
05-13-2010, 04:35 PM
Anybody replaced the traction grips up front?

Try a custom template for from SeaDek maybe? http://www.seadekstore.com/templatekit.aspx

Pricey stuff for the boat, but I hear their product is bullet proof and "worth" the price.

I'm trying to justify this purchase for my swim deck pad that's shot... http://www.seadekstore.com/swimplatformpad-supralssv.aspx

Memmer99
05-14-2010, 04:25 PM
Man this sanding and buffing thing is a pain in the A&&! This is 2 hours after work everyday for a week and I've only done 1 side.

Before
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a461/memmer99/Boat%20Pics/Picture261.jpg


After
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a461/memmer99/Boat%20Pics/Picture267.jpg

Okie Boarder
05-14-2010, 04:29 PM
Memmer,

Looking good. It does take some work to get it looking nice. The good thing is that now if you wax it well and hand polish occassionally, it will be a lonnnnng time before you have to do it again.

I'd gladly do another wet sand and buff job over the stringer repair. Try extending your time to 4 hours or more everyday and extend it out to 6 months, plus add in any othe free time you have (weekends, etc.). ;-)

jet
05-14-2010, 05:23 PM
Comon..use the other arm, keep going!! Its worth every ibuprofen. Wetsanding and the 4-blade has been the 2 best changes. :cool:

Memmer99
05-14-2010, 05:33 PM
Did you guys have a problem with the finesse it being too sticky? It goes on easy but getting the haze off is the hard part.

Okie Boarder
05-14-2010, 05:41 PM
Yeah, sometimes it kind of creates little clumps or leaves the haze behind. Try to "clean" your buffing pad and that can help. Sometimes you just have to grab a microfiber or something and wipe it off by hand. Rub down with acetone after each stage, also.

jet
05-14-2010, 06:31 PM
YES, I did with my dupont stuff, so i switched to a liquid spray turtle and it got way better. Jet