84 Supra Rider - Stringer Pics - Lucky Me!

[chardway]

Purchased my 84 Supra Rider last year before learning about the common stringer rot problem. Discovered a soft spot in the floor under the passenger side rear seat area extending toward the front of the boat. Figured my stringers would be rotten. Took it to a local shop for floor work and I got to see what is underneath the old floor this morning... STRINGERS IN EXCELLENT SHAPE! The foam (polystyrene) is all dry and in good shape as well. There is a 2x2 cross piece that had some rot and had to be replaced but otherwise everything looked good. Shop is going to drill drainage holes in the old stringers to allow drainage between compartments and will resin coat the drainage holes. I am also going to have them make the floor sections above the exhaust outlet area removable so I can access them in the future if needed. The new floor will be 3/4" marine grade fiber-glassed on 1 side (purchased this way) and resin coated on all wood surfaces. Not replacing all the floor, just what you see removed in the pics. My stringers are solid 2x6 boards; thought they would be plywood?? Getting new carpet of course and replacing all the old blue upholstery while it's there. Any other recommendations while the floor is up?

[chardway]

Few more stringer pics.

[wotan2525]

Wow.... that's a first!! Congrats!!

I can't believe how clean and dry your foam is.... Maybe 1984 was the perfect year??

[chardway]

I was surprised at the good condition of the foam too. I thought the foam was usually urethane and not styrofoam?? I asked the boat repair shop owner if he thought the stringers had been replaced at some time but he says "no", that he typically sees signs of grinding, etc. on the hull bottom when stringers are replaced and he sees none of this.

[87SunSportMikeyD]

Wow that looks great! See you guys the gems are out there! hehehe!

Maybe while they are at it, they should glass over the cross-supports and the notches in the main stringers. Many report this as an area that is susceptible to damage.

Best wishes!

[chardway]

Thanks! I'll make sure they glass over the notches!

[DAFF]

What a find!!! Perhaps this one was garage stored most of its life. I though the foam in the sunsports was black (he he).

Has anyone ever painted the fibre glass with bilge paint before the foam. This might give a little more resistance to rot in the older boats.

[87SunSportMikeyD]

Maybe Oakie or someone else could comment more on that glassing over the notches...

[Okie Boarder]

I would definitely look at treating any exposed wood while you have the floor up. CPES is an excellent product for the application. I would coat any exposed wood, then glass it to seal it up. I wouldn't put drain holes in unless you are planning to remove all the foam. With the foam in there, leave those compartments sealed and don't give a path for water to get to the foam or the stringer wood. There's no reason to bilge paint where you're going to foam...kind of overkill. But, it would make it less susceptible to water intrusion.

Treat the plywood, with CPES, before laying it down and glass both sides, too. The bottom side would be fine with a cloth. The top side should have a layer of cloth and a layer of mat. Marine grade isn't needed when doing CPES and coating both sides. The treatment is much more effective than using marine grade. Make sure it gets securely glassed to the hull sides as well. This will help prevent water intrusion into the foamed compartments.

You might consider working with the exhaust connections and any underwater thru hull areas to make sure they are thoroughly sealed.

I think the removable floor sections are a good idea. You might see if you have enough room in the bilge in fron of the motor for open space. Not sure how it was laid out in that year. I you have sufficient room, make sure it is fairly open and put a removable hatch in the floor in front of the engine. This will give you easier access underneath for any servicing or water removal and you could use the empty space to hide a ballast bag. ;-)

[87SunSportMikeyD]

I wouldn't put drain holes in unless you are planning to remove all the foam.

This is because water will enter through the drain holes and saturate the foam, correct?

[chardway]

Thanks all, for the drain hole advice! I called the shop today and told them NOT to drill any drainage holes.

On another note, I am thinking about installing exhaust flappers in-place of the SuperTrapps. I have read the threads but it isn't real clear to me if I have to remove and shorten the stainless steel piping in the boat, or do I just cut off the threaded part of the SuperTrapp flange?

[ngavchris]

You will need to cut the existIng pipes. You will need a piece of rubber exhaust hose and several clamps to hook to the new flappers pipe and the old exhaust pipe.

[rludtke]

I would consider removing the foam and not replacing it. Then add drain holes as you mentioned to allow condensation drain paths to the bilge. I think the foam does more damage than good over the long term.

[Okie Boarder]

Yes, Mikey. You are correct.

[dshaff24]

I would consider removing the foam and not replacing it. Then add drain holes as you mentioned to allow condensation drain paths to the bilge. I think the foam does more damage than good over the long term.

My power boat is basically the same concept! No foam.. Just iberglassed stringers and the whole thing painted with bilge paint w/ drain holes

[saltare inverts]

Yes foam out, plastic ballast tanks in. Underfloor ballast, perfect.