Dripless packing is leaking, now what?

[Fman]

Hello all...

Just turned 231 hours today on the boat, and I just noticed I am beginning to get water dripping from the red rubber cover on the drive shaft area. Unfortunately I know nothing about this part of the boat. It is coming from the red rubber cover on the drive shaft and is a constant drip, enough to start triggering the bilge pumps to come on throughout the day. What are my options on this? I thought this was a "dripless" packing??? so there must be something going on that needs to be addressed.

I purchased the boat in Dec '08, so I believe it will be covered under warranty but before I take it to the shop wanted to find out if there is a quick fix? do these typically start to leak?

Thanks for any help, hopefully I was able to explain what is going on.

[jet]

Hey Fman, you usually just need to re-tighten it with a screw driver, if Its not cracked or broken that should work. Good luck. Jet

[docdrs]

There are clamps that hold the red rubber boot to the boat
,then clamps that the boot holds the seal housing to the shaft
These need to be tight From the seal housing there is a blue hose
that brings water from the exhast mani to keep the seal water
cooled/lubricated ,the clams need to be tight. Then there is the
Seal in the white housing. These 4 areas are sources of leaks, if its
Your seal the seal can be replaced by undoing the 4 coupler bolts,
Loosencoupler nut retaining set screw,remove coupler nut and coupler
Off prop shaft. Loosen clamps on seal housing and remove blue cooling
Hose. Slide housing off shaft. Remove blue seal cover remove inner
C-clamp that holds Seal inside seal housing and remove seal and replace
With new one. Now take 1200 wetdry sandpaper and make sure prop
shaft end edges key way are smooth so won't. Cut new seal as it is slide
back on shaft. Oil shaft and slide on new seal and reassemle. Now
Check your alignment before bolting your couplers and adjust if
Necessary as this may be the cause of premature failure.Seals should
Last about 400 hours before leaking. Hope its just a clamp but some
Info fore the future

[Fman]

There are clamps that hold the red rubber boot to the boat
,then clamps that the boot holds the seal housing to the shaft
These need to be tight From the seal housing there is a blue hose
that brings water from the exhast mani to keep the seal water
cooled/lubricated ,the clams need to be tight. Then there is the
Seal in the white housing. These 4 areas are sources of leaks, if its
Your seal the seal can be replaced by undoing the 4 coupler bolts,
Loosencoupler nut retaining set screw,remove coupler nut and coupler
Off prop shaft. Loosen clamps on seal housing and remove blue cooling
Hose. Slide housing off shaft. Remove blue seal cover remove inner
C-clamp that holds Seal inside seal housing and remove seal and replace
With new one. Now take 1200 wetdry sandpaper and make sure prop
shaft end edges key way are smooth so won't. Cut new seal as it is slide
back on shaft. Oil shaft and slide on new seal and reassemle. Now
Check your alignment before bolting your couplers and adjust if
Necessary as this may be the cause of premature failure.Seals should
Last about 400 hours before leaking. Hope its just a clamp but some
Info fore the future

Doc, thanks for the information... I will check the clamps, hopefully its an easy fix. Really appreciate the help.

[docdrs]

Hopefully its just a clamp and not the seal

[Fman]

Last question, can I test to see if it is repaired on a fake-lake? Or will I have to lake test it?

Thanks again for the help, always appreciated...

[McDye]

I would think the out of the lake test would show if a leak occured. The water is pumped from the fresh water pump to the dripless seal via the blue tube, then out around the shaft into the lake or your driveway. :)

[docdrs]

Last question, can I test to see if it is repaired on a fake-lake? Or will I have to lake test it?

Thanks again for the help, always appreciated...

At first I was going to say no, but then I gave it some thought, and its maybe.....lol......the faster your boat goes the more pressure will be applied on the seal from the flow out the exhaust manifolds to the blue lubricating/ cooling tube (however when above planning speeds negative pressure will occur under the boat sucking water away from the seal, hence the need for cooling water from the manifolds) ...... mine leaked most while surfing... as the 10mph does not create much negative pressure under the boat and the cooling pressure on the seal is increased due to increased rpms.......so you need to rev the motor up and check the seal to see if its leaking......not sure if your fake a lake can keep up with the motor at 2500 rpms.....plus you need to have the prop spinning and also need to lubricate the strut bushings to keep them cool.........so if you can do all this( doubtful) ...yes........so i am back to my original answer....No......to determine if its fixed you have to run the boat in water......plus do you know for fact that the propshaft is aligned?( ie checked it yourself.......i've seen mechanics say its aligned when its been out 5 thou( and an asymmetrical 5 thou).....not too impressed

[Fman]

At first I was going to say no, but then I gave it some thought, and its maybe.....lol......the faster your boat goes the more pressure will be applied on the seal from the flow out the exhaust manifolds to the blue lubricating/ cooling tube (however when above planning speeds negative pressure will occur under the boat sucking water away from the seal, hence the need for cooling water from the manifolds) ...... mine leaked most while surfing... as the 10mph does not create much negative pressure under the boat and the cooling pressure on the seal is increased due to increased rpms.......so you need to rev the motor up and check the seal to see if its leaking......not sure if your fake a lake can keep up with the motor at 2500 rpms.....plus you need to have the prop spinning and also need to lubricate the strut bushings to keep them cool.........so if you can do all this( doubtful) ...yes........so i am back to my original answer....No......to determine if its fixed you have to run the boat in water......plus do you know for fact that the propshaft is aligned?( ie checked it yourself.......i've seen mechanics say its aligned when its been out 5 thou( and an asymmetrical 5 thou).....not too impressed

Never have checked prop shaft alignment on the boat, so I am not sure if it is aligned. I believe a need a feeler gauge (sp?), correct? I thought somewhere in the Indmar manual it showed how to do this. Sounds like you have done this before, was it difficult or should I just take it in to the dealer? The boat is not even two years old yet (purchase date), so I believe it will all be covered under warranty. We are winding down the season right now, I am not even sure if I will be able to get back out on the water before I winterize.

[docdrs]

takes about 20 mins max to check alignment....2 9/16" wrenches and a feeler gauge to .oo2 of an inch

[docdrs]

its long but really only takes 20 mins to check on a v drive an hour if you have to align



Shaft Alignment Procedure

Completion of this work should take less than 1 hour .

Tools Required:

2-9/16" wrenches
Torque Wrench
Feeler Gauge Set

Object:

Align the Engine coupler to the Shaft coupler with less that .002 gap.

Removing the Interior:
1. Remove the motor box and rear seat.
2. Remove the rear center floor.
3. You should now be able to see the Shaft Coupler/Transmission Coupler Interface.

Removing the Bolts:
1. Locate the Shaft Coupler/Transmission Coupler Interface.
2. You will see four bolts holding the two couplers together.
3. Using two 9/16 wrenches loosen the nuts from the bolts.
· Once the bolts are removed check the following:
1. The grade marking on the head of the bolt should read "S30400".
2. They should be a 3/8-24 X 1 -" Stainless Steel bolts.
3. Look for wear or damage.
4. If the bolts are incorrect or are damaged replace them!

4. Once the bolts are out the coupler should naturally want to match up with out any pressure. At this point do a shaft alignment.

Aligning the Engine:

1. Holding the two couplers together, take a feeler gauge set and see if a .005 gauge feeler will slide between the couplers at any point around the circumference. Be sure to run the feeler all the way around. If it will slip between the couplers go to step 2. If it does not slip between the couplers go to step 4.

2. Next, spin the shaft coupler 180 degrees. Holding the two couplers together, again, take a feeler gauge set and see if a .005 gauge feeler will slide between the couplers at any point around the circumference. Be sure to run the feeler all the way around. It should slip between the couplers at the same point as it did in step I, if it does slip in the same spot, go to step three. If it slips between the coupler at a point 180 degrees for where it did last time examine shaft for damage (it may be bent) and examine the coupler for damage. If no damage is found, repeat steps 1 and two.

3. Too close a gap between the couplers the engine will need to be moved slightly.

- If the gap is at the 12 O'clock position you will need to raise the front of the engine or lower the back of the engine. To do this (using the rear feet): loosen the jam nuts on the rear feet. Then put a wrench on the tops and turn it counterclockwise. Make sure to count the turns and turn both the right and left feet equal amounts. This will lower the back of the engine and close the gap. If you went too far you will open a gap at the bottom. When using the rear feet to make adjustments, be sure not to lower or raise the shaft & coupler out of its "natural" position. For major angular movements (were you need to move the engine 2-3 thousand) use the front feet for the majority of the movement, then fine tune with the rear mounts.


- If the Gap is at the 3 O'clock position you will need to slide the front or rear of the engine over. To do this, loosen the nuts on the trunnion pins. Then tap the trunnion pin lightly to back it off and loosen them from the trunnions. This will allow the engine to be moved side to side. Using a pry bar, push the front of the engine more starboard to close the gap. If you push it to you will create a gap at the 9 O'clock position.

- If the gap is between the 1 and 2 0' clock position, you may be able to get the gap closed by lowering the left rear foot only.

- Keep repeating these steps till a 0.005 feeler gauge will not fit between the couplers at any point. Be sure that the shaft remains in the its natural position so that you do not cause premature shaft packing wear or strut bushing wear. Once you have gotten the engine aligned to within 0.005 repeat the above steps until the engine alignment is within 0.002.

1. Make sure to lock down all the jam nuts on the engine feet and the trunnion pins on the trunnions.

2. Recheck the engine alignment after the jam nuts and trunnion pins have been tightened. If it is still within tolerance you may proceed.

Reinstalling the Bolts:

- Install the bolts (3/8-24 x 1 " S30400) through the couplers and install the 3/8-24 Nylock Stainless Nut.
- Torque the bolts to 25-30 Ft Lbs.
- Double check that the jam nuts on the engine and the cotter pins on the trunnions are tight.
- Double check that the shaft coupler bolts are torqued to 25-30 Ft Lbs.

[Fman]

Doc, wow, that might be a little out of my comfort range. Wish I knew someone close to me that had done it before, probably not a major deal but would feel more comfortable with someone who has done it before. Especially seeing as this is an item under warranty. Let me think on it for a little bit, do appreciate the step by step instructions.