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denwbaseball
10-18-2010, 03:45 PM
Ok so I know I've been MIA this season but I'm getting ready to winerize and I have a quick question. When I winterized last year one of the block plugs pulled some of the threads out of the block....it took an act of god for me to get that plug back in the block properly. Do you think that I can get away with just pulling one of the plugs? will that get all the water out? Or enough of it out and then adding several gallons of antifreeze?

docdrs
10-18-2010, 05:04 PM
You need to take both out or only half the block will be drained, did you put them both back in after you winterized or in the spring you had a hard time getting them back in. Put anti sieze on the threads and screw them back in n out so the threads don't corrode over the winter

cadunkle
10-18-2010, 07:59 PM
If the threads are jacked up you could chase it them with an NPT tap to clean them up, then get a new plug to use so you don't chew up your clean threads with a boogered plug.

Fman
10-19-2010, 12:35 AM
Ok so I know I've been MIA this season but I'm getting ready to winerize and I have a quick question. When I winterized last year one of the block plugs pulled some of the threads out of the block....it took an act of god for me to get that plug back in the block properly. Do you think that I can get away with just pulling one of the plugs? will that get all the water out? Or enough of it out and then adding several gallons of antifreeze?

What I did on mine was install a drain cock valve so I no longer need to remove the plugs. Basically it is a brass "T" that screws into the block, has the drain cock on it and the knock sensor on the end. Its a simple set-up and makes draining the block simple.

Just something you might want to consider. If you need pics let me know, I can post some up.

Sluggo
10-19-2010, 10:23 AM
Fman, where did you pick up the T's or do you have a Lowes part's list? If I recall I only have a knock sensor on the one side.

Thanks,

Dave

denwbaseball
10-19-2010, 12:28 PM
I put it back in rite after winerization....not in the spring. So I got it back in but it wasn't easy. Thanks guys

docdrs
10-19-2010, 12:38 PM
What I did on mine was install a drain cock valve so I no longer need to remove the plugs. Basically it is a brass "T" that screws into the block, has the drain cock on it and the knock sensor on the end. Its a simple set-up and makes draining the block simple.

Just something you might want to consider. If you need pics let me know, I can post some up.

I'd like to see that, its a great mod.what size T and where did you get it? Oh and what exactly does the knock sensor do and how does it work? Just googled it ,now i know :)

foxriverat
10-19-2010, 02:24 PM
If you dont want to mess with the plug. A lot of people I know just unhook the raw water inlet hose and stick it in a bucket. And suck up 4 gallons of 100 below marine antifreeze. Personally I drain mine. And then fill with antifreeze. But I have never seen any of them have a problem doing it that way.

Fman
10-19-2010, 08:02 PM
I'd like to see that, its a great mod.what size T and where did you get it? Oh and what exactly does the knock sensor do and how does it work? Just googled it ,now i know :)

Doc I posted a new thread in the "mods" section with a picture. If you have any further questions, please ask!

rludtke
10-19-2010, 08:50 PM
If the threads are jacked up you could chase it them with an NPT tap to clean them up, then get a new plug to use so you don't chew up your clean threads with a boogered plug.

If the threads are not salvageble, you can repair the threads with a heli-coil.

wotan2525
10-20-2010, 10:52 AM
I've never removed these block plugs.... just pull your thermostat and suck in 4-5 gallons of RV antifreeze..... You'll be good.

Okie Boarder
10-21-2010, 04:35 PM
I would agree you want to remove all plugs. You might consider the pet cock idea. Another forum suggested using pet cocks with removeable stems to allow you to probe the hole with a wire to ensure you remove any sediment that tries to jam up the hole. The pet cocks suggested were standard parts available from McMaster Carr.