Rubbing compound process

[TitanTn]

I'm going to be buffing, polishing and waxing my boat soon. I've seen some great examples on here of people doing it right, so I want to tap into that experience. My questions are about the process. How long do a I buff before wiping off the residue? When it's dry? When it's almost buffed off completely? Is the process the same for polishing? Any other tips?

[Okie Boarder]

Essentially you're going to buff until the material is gone...there should be very little residue. Are you planning to use a rotary machine?

[crystal waters]

What year/model is your boat and what are your issues in that you want to apply rubbing compound to it? Is it badly marked up or?

[TitanTn]

Yes, I plan on using a buffing machine. An orbital buffer. So just buff it to a haze? Or keep buffing the haze out? Wash before applying Finesse It?

The boat is a 1986 Saltare. It's really in great shape, but hasn't had much TLC. The gelcoat is not bad, but I think it needs some moderate rubbing compound, polish, and then wax.

[DAFF]

Start looking for a used rotary machine> The orbitals will not give you the results you are looking for.

You can start off with some 2000 grit wet paper and complete rub down a area. Follow with a marine rubbing compound. Use a coarse foam pad followed by a polishing compound with a fine foam pad and then the hand glaze... Should spend 3-5 hours per side. Don't expect to bring it back to 100% the first time. Repeated waxing / polishing is the best.

[wotan2525]

This would be a really cheap way to get the right unit.... I know Harbor Freight tools are junk but how many times are you really going to use this? I have a friend with a detailing business that only uses these. Get's just as much life out of them as any other inexpensive power tool....

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-electronic-polisher-66615.html?utm_term=66615&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=googlebase

[crystal waters]

Before going thru all the work of buffing it etc try washing it with CLR and water. (acid wash). You might be amazed at the results.
Wash well and let stand for 10 minutes.
Then rinse thoroughly with hose and towel dry.
Then apply a good wax and /or polish.
Looks like showroom new!

[Okie Boarder]

Definitely want a rotary not orbital. To answer your question, you buff it until it is almost gone...passed the stage where it is a haze.

[jet]

I would forgo the compounding..it didnt go smoothly on my boat..to dry and sticky, then all the compound wouldn't come off, WAY to much work. What I found out was easier was wetsanding, you can do a simple hand wash with 2000 and then do a regular wax or spray wax style and it will comeback BRAND NEW. See mine below on my link page 3 and 4. Goodluck. Jet

link:
https://forum.supraboats.com/album.php?albumid=86

[TitanTn]

Thanks guys. I mis-spoke. I don't know why I said it was orbital. It actually is a rotary polisher.

But now I've got Jet suggesting to skip the compounding and just do a 2000 grit sand. I'm not scared of either process, I just want to get it done right. I want it to shine like the examples many of you have posted. I definitely don't need to do both (sanding and compounding), but I do need to do one or the other.

I've read where other people have said that compounding is essentially the same as 1000 or 2000 grit sanding (depending on each person's opinion). Can anyone else weigh in on Jet's suggestion? Is sanding or compounding one-and-the-same?

[sybrmike]

The best method is whatever works for your boat/situation. Since you already have a rotary buffer, spring for some good wool pads and a good gelcoat compound and polish (3M, Presta, etc.) and some good 2000/1000 wet sandpaper and do a 2'x2' test patch of each. Note that a lot of the "miracle" compounds actually contain oils & waxes that give a premature shine that won't last long. A good compound will go on wet and dry to a powder as you buff it out. Sanding/compounding/polishing are for getting a good shine. Wax is for protecting that shine.

Generally, a slightly oxidized light color might come back nicely with just a polish. Dark colors or heavy oxidization (like my black) may need to start way down with a 600 wetsand. You want to remove as little gelcoat as possible and still get down to the good gelcoat for a lasting shine, but if you don't go deep enough the oxidation will quickly return.

Regardless, your aching arms and shoulders after you've got her nice & shiney should be a good reminder to regularly apply a coat of protective wax.

[mapleleaf]

ditto to that....I've only been able to complete my wetsand/polish in steps ( young kid/ house remodel/time!!!), but the samples I did with wax after i had wetsanded were by far the best. unfortunately i don't have to many pics and I have yet to polish the whole boat, but I'd say that if you've got heavy oxidation, wetsanding is the place to start> I did three passes in graduation. 800 grit, 1000 and then 2000, it really seems to have got my boat back to a new layer of gelcoat.......And Mike's dead serious about Ur aching arms!!! Eat Ur wheeties!!!

[wotan2525]

I've done the compound + polish + wax each spring for the last 3 summers. I've taken my time and done it right -- probably at least 20 hours of work each time. Even with regular waxing and upkeep, it's faded out by the middle of september. I'm pretty sure it's because it lives outside and takes direct sun all day/every day.

Because of that, I am starting to think that I'm not getting deep enough. This spring I'll be starting with a wet sand and then follow with compound, polish and wax.

[TitanTn]

The best method is whatever works for your boat/situation. Since you already have a rotary buffer, spring for some good wool pads and a good gelcoat compound and polish (3M, Presta, etc.) and some good 2000/1000 wet sandpaper and do a 2'x2' test patch of each.


I like this idea. I don't know which method will work best, so why don't I test both?

I have a mixture of light and dark colors. The side of the boat is white (bone color really) and the accent color is red. Neither is heavily oxidized in my opinion, so I'm not expecting to dig too deep into the gelcoat.

I think my process is going to be:

1) Test rubbing compound and 2000 grit wet sand. Choose best result.
2) After completing the boat with the best solution, follow it with Finesse It II.
3) Wax

This is feeling a little more focused. Any more thoughts on this process?

p.s. Thanks also for an idea of how long to buff the compound. Goes on wet and stop when it's dry.

[jet]

Titan..I thought your boat was newer (so use 2000 grit). After seeing your pic's you NEED to wetsand and use other grits to cut through first then the 2000 to get rid of the sanding marks. Dont waist your time compound polishing, it will just return next year again, like mine did. If your bone colored part doesn't shine like mine in the pic? its time to wetsand. Your 1-2-3 steps look good, you might even leave #2 out?? take pic's..we all need something to look at. LOL

[87SunSportMikeyD]

Titan - She is a fine lookin lady. You WILL need to wetsand the crap out of her.

[jet]

Lol..thanks Mikey for saying it nicely. Im built with sharp edges and No grey area. lol. God still loves me though. Right God? Bueller...bueller..

[TitanTn]

Thanks guys. So now you've got me leaning very heavy to wet sanding. It sounds like Jet is suggesting I need to start with something more aggressive than 2000 grit. Like 1000? Surely I don't need more than that? It does appear to be lightly oxidized and just doesn't have a shine at all.

[sybrmike]

My black was/is baaad - chalky grey. I worked a couple of test spots before I settled on a technique & finished the top cap. I still have to do the bottom half, but keep finding other stuff to work on (the memory of the top cap still lingers). I had to drop down to 600 to really make a dent on the black. A pro told me he occasionally has to start at 400, but I'm no pro & not that brave...

[DAFF]

Nothing better than doing a little sanding / polishing in the off season to keep off the winter flabbies.... When wetsanding use a sanding block lots of water and keep an old windshield wiper near to clean off the work area prior to compounding.

Don't forget when using the lower number papers to step the numbers up before heading straight to compound. 1000 1500 2000 >>> compound >>> polish >>> glaze

[Okie Boarder]

Yeah, I'd say at least try the 1000 and see what it looks like. You should be able to see that the oxidation is completely gone just with the wetsand. If it isn't, go more aggressive. Then work your way from there. Seems like you have the next steps just about right.

[TitanTn]

Thanks Okie. I've started the process and you can see some pics on the thread I just started about my restoration project.

http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=7839

I started out with 800 and have also tested some 1000. I really think I can get by with either. It just takes a little bit more elbow to use the 1000. Thanks for the help.

[Loadup]

Wahoo another Saltare in the hood. Titan I am in Ooltewah off hunter road I think we past this summer in wolftever. I mistook your boat for a sunsport.

[TitanTn]

Wahoo another Saltare in the hood. Titan I am in Ooltewah off hunter road I think we past this summer in wolftever. I mistook your boat for a sunsport.

Depending on when that was, it may or may not have been me. I just got my boat about a month ago. I've been to Wolftever once and Parksville once.

[Loadup]

It may have been a sunsport I saw then, it would have been this summer July time frame. You have a sunsport twin.