View Full Version : 89 Sunsport rot
oldman
11-27-2010, 07:33 PM
Purchased 89 Sunsport first of September. Knew it had some rot but now in full scale demolition. This is a daunting task. Here's some pictures of some rot.
http://i54.tinypic.com/2nm3rqd.jpg
http://i53.tinypic.com/rw3w5d.jpg
http://i53.tinypic.com/2cr6hk2.jpg
michael hunter
11-27-2010, 08:39 PM
Looks like its going to need a complete stringer and floor replacement. There are many threads on this forum showing how. Its a lot of work the upper and lower hulls will need to be separated. If you have it done you will pay about 5k . How is the rest of the boat?
Okie Boarder
11-28-2010, 01:38 PM
Yup. I'd be looking at getting that engine out and seperating the hulls and just get to it. There are a bunch of us on here that can help you through it.
oldman
11-28-2010, 10:59 PM
Maybe the Decal is the best part of the boat. The hull seems to be in decent shape. We pulled the motor, which will be rebuilt. Found some GT40 heads. Looking for some recommendations about what type of carburetor and distributor to put on. Have not split the hull and top yet because I would like to be on the water by April 1st. Hopefully I am not fooling myself.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030391.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030392.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030389.jpg
TitanTn
11-28-2010, 11:03 PM
Are you really making progress this fast? Wow! I don't think being ready by April will be an issue.
Okie Boarder
11-29-2010, 06:39 PM
Is that a new secondary stringer in that last picture? How did you get that in there without splitting the hulls?
I'd say if you want to be on the water in April and you're doing a full rebuild of the stringers and supports, split the hulls and get to it.
oldman
11-29-2010, 09:59 PM
Yes both secondary stringers where to far gone to save. I went 12 feet down on the drivers side and butted up to existing, will have to plate. I might have been able to get the whole thing, if I cut some more floor under driver area. It will be even harder on spotter side. I"m working outside and dont have a good place for my top, but I know someday it will have to come off. I will take some more pics so you can see all the crazy stunts on the rot repairs. Main stringers are in decent shape, rock solid around engine mounts. Have to cut out all rotten areas mostly at notches and install new doug fir. This supra forum is great and the old threads have been huge in helping me in this project.
mapleleaf
11-29-2010, 10:28 PM
Great work so far.....Love those tower lights!!!! it gets dark early these days....
Those are led's right?? lol
sybrmike
12-02-2010, 04:40 PM
Gosh, that looks all too familiar...
Yeah, the two halves took up all my garage - so the trailer work is all outside. Working outside sucks!
Great work & continued fast progress. Up front under the playpen is notorious for rot. Don't know how you can repair that area w/out splitting the hull - but maybe you're lucky & it's not that bad. New stringers over 75% of the length might be good enough depending on the condition of the front area & your long term intentions for the boat.
I think a boombox bolted to the tower would compliment those lights nicely.
Keep us posted.
oldman
12-02-2010, 10:31 PM
You can pick up the tower lights at a reasonable price from your local hardware store or garage sale. These lights are very mobile with nice rubber coated spring clamps, They work great out on the water at night, but I can only go 100 feet from the dock, because my extension cord pulls out of the outlet.
If I were smarter I would buy a longer cord. Working on removing as much foam as possible. When you get the foam out, the stringers really dry up nice and you can really start to tell what rot must go or old wood that is very stable and can be treated with CPES.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030405.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030401.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030409.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030400.jpg
oldman
12-04-2010, 10:06 PM
Weather went bad here in Charlotte. Has slowed down the work on the boat. I’ve removed the port side secondary stringer or 12 feet of it. Have been coating doug fir cross members with CPES and epoxy. I’m leaving the main stringers but they need some repairs. The playpen area flooring feels very solid. I will still cut some inspection holes and remove the foam. At this time I still have not pulled the top half of boat. Plan on doing that next off season. Some people always do things the hard way. One quick question for anyone out there. Which strut bearing should I buy? The new plastic or the old standard brass hard rubber inside. Here’s some more pics.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030404.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030403.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030394.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030402.jpg
oldman
12-05-2010, 07:27 PM
Cut out a large piece of rot on the main stringer. Will have to let the wood dry out and see what’s good enough to treat with CPES. If you look close at tower pic you can see my newly installed sounds, hope it doesn’t draw too much power. Might have to install a gas generator. I really love the supra rudders. Have you ever noticed the wear spot at the top part of an old rudder? I filled it in with epoxy to slow down the erosion. Also a pic of my favorite grinding wheel for fiberglass or wood. Fast and will not clog and will do as many boat as you have. Not for finish work.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030416.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030411.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030415.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030417.jpg
mapleleaf
12-05-2010, 10:55 PM
I would say one of those 3 outlet extension cords would wire your tower complete, poss. 150'. might make those wakeboard runs just a bit longer. Way to man up on the grinding wheel, def. not for the faint of heart. It falls under the my category of tools I like to use to effect change...
sybrmike
12-05-2010, 11:38 PM
Tab actuators? Transom lights? Somebody had shown the ole girl some love...
Sound system looks great (glad you took my advice). Hope you didn't spend too much on the install. Why mess with dual batteries, isolators, on-board chargers, etc. when a couple of C cells will do. You can always upgrade to D cells for those long jam sessions in the cove.
Great progress - hope the weather turns for you. My guess is once you're done with those repairs, the top ain't ever comin off. Looks like it'll be plenty stiff when you're done. I'll have to change my repair mantra after seeing that grinding wheel - cut to fit, grind to shape, paint to match.
As the temps plumit you can always tarp the whole boat and buy a propane heater. This way you can still work in comfort and the boat will dry that much better. A white or light colour would be best so light can still filter in....
Lookin great!!!!
I ended up making my own too to cut out the old foam. It started out as an asparagus knife;) you could cut out strips and pop them out using a flat ended garden shovel. I bet more and more people will try to get a few more years out ofthe stringers without pulling off the top after reading this thread. I let mine sit open the whole summer to dry out the old stringers. After the summer of drying I relised even the old floor cross members that seemed rotten were not that bad. I could not break them using my knee!!! So the stringers that were incased must be decent too. Personally these boats were build to overkill standards. Water and foam is the real killer !!
wotan2525
12-06-2010, 11:36 AM
This is pretty similar to how I did my stringers.... Never pulled the top cap but cut out and replaced everything from the windshield back. My observers seat was just a plywood box, so that came out, too. It's been 5 years and I haven't run into any further problems. You're making good progress!!
Okie Boarder
12-06-2010, 01:52 PM
Looks like it is coming along nicely. I now understand what Salty meant last year when looking at current rebuild pictures after he was already done with his.
oldman
12-08-2010, 09:34 PM
As the temps plumit you can always tarp the whole boat and buy a propane heater. This way you can still work in comfort and the boat will dry that much better. A white or light colour would be best so light can still filter in....
I didn't think about that, but that is a great idea. I've got a propane heater, I would just have to come up with some tarps for the sides, It's so cold here now it's hard to get motivated to do anything.
oldman
12-08-2010, 09:40 PM
I now understand what Salty meant last year when looking at current rebuild pictures after he was already done with his.
Not sure what Salty meant?
oldman
12-08-2010, 10:30 PM
The trailer is a little rusty, but I believe it's pretty solid. Just plan to sand and paint. It has four drum brakes. I bolted on a new titan brake actuator and bought four new hubs, drums brakes etc. I thought I would have to redo the stuff. But today you can buy the whole thing complete even greased bearings. Just four bolts on the back plate and push on the spindle. As you can see in pic I bought the cheapest wheel and tire known to china. Need to save a little on somethings in case I decide to purchase some lithium batteries for my sound system!(Sybrmike) Still need to run brake lines. The brake adj. is a bear to access, it's like impossible to go straight in with a brake spoon on the star wheel. To cold here to get anything done. Looking forward to a break in the weather.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030408.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030407.jpg
TitanTn
12-09-2010, 10:00 AM
That sounds about exactly what I need to do to my trailer. I need to get a surge brake actuator just like you. Do you have a suggestion on where to get it? Looking for the best price I can find...
sybrmike
12-09-2010, 11:36 AM
Nice brake upgrade. You're lucky, my actuator was trashed but it was welded to the trailer - so no simple bolt-on option. Had to cut it off & then modded the trailer to accept a new bolt-on disc actuator and replaced the old drums with discs (on one axle only).
TitanTn - I picked up a closeout special, complete disc brake kit from easternmarine.com. Quick shipment & as good a price as I could find.
Don't sweat cheaping out on the rims. I think the white spokes will compliment the white on the hull nicely. I ghetto'd out on the rims/tires as well. My 14" tires were in good shape, so just remounted them on the cheapest used aluminum rims I could find to replace the rusted out chrome steel originals.
oldman
12-09-2010, 09:22 PM
I need to get a surge brake actuator just like you. Do you have a suggestion on where to get it? Looking for the best price I can find...
Just bought it over the internet at trailer parts superstore. Its the same place as eastmarine.com. The actuator was $97 plus shipping. It is brand new so I don't know how well it works. Also bought the flexible brake line kit for all four wheels.
oldman
12-09-2010, 09:29 PM
my actuator was trashed but it was welded to the trailer
The old actuator was welded to the trailer, but just cut the welds and ground smooth. Then bolted the new one on. You can't beat those grinders with the right disk.
TitanTn
12-09-2010, 10:22 PM
Thanks guys. I had found that web site also, but was wondering if you had found another gem. I'm going to have to get one before spring, but with so many other projects (floor, interior, sound, etc) it's not an immediate priority.
What no chain upgrade ??? I usually give all my trailer chains a nice thick coat of aluminum coloured spay paint. This way it looks fresh and keeps your hands clean!!
Before you prep for paint add some LED trailer lights. You will never have to replace a blown bulb again !! NTM they look way too cool at night and make everyhing look that much newer.
sybrmike
12-10-2010, 01:10 AM
Oldman - like I said: cut to fit, GRIND to shape, & paint to match. Don't think there's not much you can't do with that wicked grinding wheel of yours. Looks like your new actuator is linear like mine (although a different style). Bleeding was a bit@#. Pushing it in wasn't too difficult - make a loop of the tow chains about even with the end of the actuator & use one end of a long 2x4 as a lever against the loop with the actuator as the fulcrum while pushing on the top of the board. I had to use a crowbar to pull the actuator out each stroke. Also, check your suspension bushings while you're at it. All 14 of mine had either worn through or about to. Don't know how much good those little plastic inserts help, but replaced mine (65 cents each @ local trailer store) while I was blasting/painting the suspension.
My trailer was made by Randall's VIP & don't think they supplied Supra for long since I've only seen one other like it. Some quirky design features for sure. The actuator was end-welded so close to the frame joint that there was no room to bolt a new one on after cutting the old off. The fenders were also trashed and oddball length/width & couldn't find replacements local or surfing the net. I found some aluminum diamond plate ones that I think I can make fit. Can I borrow that grinding wheel? :) Ill have to wait until I finish wiring the new LED's this weekend & get the hull back on to fit them properly.
Daff - good tip on painting the chains & new LED's. Can't wait to see mine all lit up & never chasing burnt bulbs again. I even added back-up lights. With my quad cab long bed, tinted windows, backing up a 24 footer - I couldnt' see squat back there at night (hope they help?).
Okie Boarder
12-10-2010, 11:56 AM
Salty had mentioned that looking at the pictures of the rebuilds gave him that anxious feeling all over again that he went through when he did his rebuild.
mapleleaf
12-10-2010, 09:06 PM
What no chain upgrade ??? I usually give all my trailer chains a nice thick coat of aluminum coloured spay paint. This way it looks fresh and keeps your hands clean!!
Before you prep for paint add some LED trailer lights. You will never have to replace a blown bulb again !! NTM they look way too cool at night and make everyhing look that much newer.
Ahhh Daff, I just replaced my rusted out cables at Princess Auto......$ 8.99, 3/8's cable plastic coated.....they work great and uhhhh look new!!! LOL
I wouldn't sweat the rims either, as long the tires are 4 ply or better thats all that really matters. I got'em too, just painted them black to match my trailer
oldman
12-12-2010, 11:08 AM
What no chain upgrade ??? I usually give all my trailer chains a nice thick coat of aluminum coloured spay paint.
Before you prep for paint add some LED trailer lights.
Good idea Daff, I think I have a can in the garage. I bought the whole led trailer light kit with wires from Harbor Freight. (china) Seems to work fine,
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030424.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030425.jpg
oldman
12-12-2010, 04:27 PM
Oldman Bleeding was a bit@#. Also, check your suspension bushings while you're at it.
The fenders were also trashed and oddball length/width & couldn't find replacements local or surfing the net. I found some aluminum diamond plate ones that I think I can make fit. Can I borrow that grinding wheel? :) Ill have to wait until I finish wiring the new LED's this weekend & get the hull back on to fit them properly.
Thanks for the instructions on bleeding the brakes! Also for the tip on the bushings, It's easy to overlook. They must be original with 20+ year of wear.
I would think the new bushings would cut down on noise and provide a smoother ride. I guess before I bolt on the new fenders, I need to put the weight back in the boat, like the engine and everything else. I found some fenders on the net from a Texas trailer co. , just galv. steel.
Questions
1 What's a good measurement from top of tire to underside of fender?
2 What type of material on the boat side of fender? (was thinking pvc wood and carpet)
3 How far down the backside of fender should the material be?
Sybrmike, You can borrow the grinder anytime, but I was thinking we might have more fun with the acetylene- oxygen cutting torch! (maybe not so much on the new aluminum fender).
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030434.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030430.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030432.jpg
oldman
12-12-2010, 09:55 PM
Ahhh Daff, I just replaced my rusted out cables at Princess Auto......$ 8.99, 3/8's cable plastic coated.....they work great and uhhhh look new!!! LOL
I think those coated cables would have a nice clean look and strong too!
oldman
12-12-2010, 09:58 PM
Here's mine...
Don't have to worry about anyone running into the back of your trailer.
sybrmike
12-14-2010, 12:20 PM
I was trial fitting my fenders last night & put one of the old ones in place for reference. My originals had 2.25" between the top of the tire and bottom of the fender with just the hull bottom on. Not sure how much those 3500# axles will sink with the weight of the whole boat, but they're pretty stiff. Doesn't seem like much clearance, so my new fenders will probably be mounted a little higher (plus the new ones are a little taller & I wanna get the lower lips more in line with the bottom of the bearing buddies).
Mine had carpeted OSB (not sure if it was PT), but I'm going back with carpeted 1/2" PT plywood.
Not sure what you meant by "down the backside of fender"? My trailer has two ears welded to the frame rail behind the tires that capture the bottom edge of the inner fender liner. These put the liner at an angle (narrow at the bottom edge where they bolt to the frame & and wider at the top where they mount to the fender). So basically bottom edge of liner even with top of outer frame rail.
My metal working skills are, umm, shall we say "limited". If you want a good laugh, watch me weld (I left that to a buddy who's a pro). I did use a torch to cut out new ovals for the added back-up lights. Scary (and ugly), but they fit & the gaskets cover the evidence of my limited abilities...
mapleleaf
12-14-2010, 09:36 PM
What part of your wiring harness will the backup lights be tied into???? I really like this idea
sybrmike
12-14-2010, 10:53 PM
They're done - I'm waiting to finish my fender install and a few minor trailer details before posting updated pics in my rebuild thread (sorry for the minor hijack oldman).
I installed a back-up solenoid with the new disc brakes - trailer drums will free wheel in reverse, discs won't. The actuator had a manual lock-out, but that seemed cumbersom to have to remember to get out & lock out each time. So I now have a 7 pin round (factory tow package) to 5 pin flat adapter & just wired the back-up lights and the reverse solenoid to the additional blue wire. All LED, all soldered & heat shrinked - shouldn't ever have to chase a bad bulb again!
oldman
12-14-2010, 11:12 PM
Not sure what you meant by "down the backside of fender"? My trailer has two ears welded to the frame rail behind the tires that capture the bottom edge of the inner fender liner.
Scary (and ugly),
Thanks for all the info., that defiantly helps. I will try to fab something up on my trailer frame, like those ears for the inner fender liner.
Never be afraid, your grinder will always be there for you. Cutting torch to fit, grind to shape, paint to match.
oldman
12-14-2010, 11:37 PM
Filled in gas tank gouge in lower corner with marine tex. Tank was not leaking, but thought it might be good preventative maintenance. Pic of tools used to cut stringers.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030429.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030427.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030436.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030435.jpg
oldman
12-15-2010, 12:08 AM
I installed a back-up solenoid with the new disc brakes - trailer drums will free wheel in reverse, discs won't. The actuator had a manual lock-out, but that seemed cumbersom to have to remember to get out & lock out each time. So I now have a 7 pin round (factory tow package) to 5 pin flat adapter & just wired the back-up lights and the reverse solenoid to the additional blue wire. All LED, all soldered & heat shrinked - shouldn't ever have to chase a bad bulb again!
Sounds like a really slick set up! All automatic, nice HD 7 pin plug and (old school) soldered joints.
sybrmike
12-15-2010, 12:13 AM
I think the ears on my trailer frame were intended to help support the long tandem flat (rolled edges only - no teardrop) original fender. With the teardrop on your new ones, they should be stiff enough to fab an inner liner & just bolt to the fender only.
Tim the Tool Man Taylor would be proud - Arh Arh Arh. Keep up the great work!
Seven pin trailers have a space designed for back up light from the factory. I think it is the centre pin.... Stay away from the 5 pin system, if you ever want to pull the boat with a different vehicle you will be up shil Creek.
Also to make the wiring super slick.... Buy a juction box for the wiring. Run a 7 wire cable from the box to the front and 4 wire from the box to the sides. Connect each system to the box with its own wire so if there is ever an issue you can trace it faster and still have most lights. Takes more time to wire but worth it in the long run.
I almost forgot. The wheel travel is dictated by a plate on the underside of the trailer. This plate will limit the wheel travel, so in theory measure the distance from the plate to the square tubing of the trailer. This measurement can be used for the spacing of the tire to the top of the fender.
Hey Daff..whats up with the 5 pin?? They make cheap adapters to convert it back to 4-pin or 7-pin too I think. Is that why you were saying that?? Any prob's? I have a 5-pin on my Armada.
Perhaps things in the US are different. Here in canada only horse trailers use the round 5 pin. As of 09 and up model year the flat 4 pin are not even available from the factory, only seven. I said 7 just to make it EZ for everyone. If you happen to pull multiple trailers epecially ones with electric brakes I would for sure go with 7 pin. I have the 7 to 4 converter for one of my old single axle trailers and every time I go to use it the adapter is in the wrong truck.
Just generally speaking the 7 pin hook up is way more common here in the north.
oldman
12-16-2010, 09:56 AM
I almost forgot. The wheel travel is dictated by a plate on the underside of the trailer. This plate will limit the wheel travel, so in theory measure the distance from the plate to the square tubing of the trailer. This measurement can be used for the spacing of the tire to the top of the fender.
I do have welded on stop plates and I can measure off them. Just didn't think of it. Thanks for the tip.
Yeah 5's and 7's are comon here now.
oldman
12-18-2010, 11:05 AM
Installed blocking for inside wall. I found it interesting that the blocking dimensions from side to side were different. One measured 2.5 inches wide and the other 3 inches wide. I guess Supra just grabbed whatever wood scrapes were laying around. Finally pulled transmission.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030438.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030439.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030440.jpg
oldman
12-18-2010, 11:17 AM
Need to clean and paint transmission mounts. I had planned on changing front and rear seal. Pulled stick, fluid didn't look like dextron. Looks a little strange, but feels like normal oil. Have to decide if I should take it to someone to check out or look myself. PO said it work fine.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030442.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030443.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030444.jpg
87SunSportMikeyD
12-20-2010, 12:18 PM
Awesome pics and progress. We are watching!
oldman
12-20-2010, 11:14 PM
Progress is slow, because of this cold snap in NC. Coated a 12 ft section of doug fir secondary stringer. 2 coats of cpes and a coat of LL epoxy all sides. The pros on these threads seem to bed in bare wood stringers and then fiberglass them in. It's nice to have the time to waterproof the wood before it gets installed. Disassembled rear mounts, inner bushing of rubber corroded and stuck. Sanded, cleaned and greased. Going to use all original parts
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030447.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030446.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030445.jpg
sybrmike
12-21-2010, 11:19 AM
That definintely doesn't look like ATF on the dipstick? Tough working in those temps, but you're making progress. Looks like you cut the bottom of the liner on the top cap to access the floor at the hull edges? What are your plans going back once the new floor's down?
Okie Boarder
12-21-2010, 12:43 PM
Looking good. You're definitely doing yourself a favor by coating the wood before putting it in. CPES is some amazing stuff.
oldman
12-23-2010, 01:52 PM
What are your plans going back once the new floor's down?
The cut out piece will go right back in. It will be back plated with 1/8 aluminum. Through bolted top and bolted with aluminum inserts on bottom or top of cut piece. Flat head 1/4 20 bolts to maintain a flush finish.
I'll post pic if I make it to that step.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030452.jpg
oldman
12-23-2010, 02:06 PM
Bedded in secondary stringer. Starting to play around with cross supports. I will be through bolting everything together.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030451.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030450.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030449.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030448.jpg
How do you taper that end to fit the boat perfectly?
oldman
12-25-2010, 01:30 PM
How do you taper that end to fit the boat perfectly?
Not sure what end, but the stringer to transom is cut at the same angle as the transom. Measured the angle and cut it on a chop saw. Bedded it in with 5200 and still needs to be tabbed in with fiberglass.
If your talking about the bottom of the stringer I just angled my hand plainer to fit as close as possible. There is a quarter inch gap for bedding material(polyurethane).
A small snow storm and Christmas holidays is no reason to take a break.... LOL The grass will be green in your part before you know it!!!
oldman
12-31-2010, 08:25 PM
Back from vacation, had a chance today to glass first layer of tape. Tabbed in bottom of secondary stringer.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030459.jpg
oldman
01-01-2011, 09:55 PM
Clutch discs look good, except for one chipped tooth on front one. I'm thinking of running it the way it is. Could of broke during installation. Cleaned magnetic oil donut.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030460-1.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030462.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030461.jpg
oldman
01-04-2011, 10:59 PM
Attempting to finish left side secondary stringer. Using some fabric that actually works well with epoxy. Been using woven roving, which doesn't lay down with epoxy. A hard lesson to learn. Main stringers are drying out and I'm treating with cpes, before installation of doug fur for repairs.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030463.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030464.jpg
Okie Boarder
01-05-2011, 02:58 PM
Woven Roving doesn't seem to like to lay down or make the kind of curves in an application like the stringers, for sure. What kind of cloth did you go with? Did you look into the different biaxial cloths?
oldman
01-05-2011, 05:37 PM
What kind of cloth did you go with? Did you look into the different biaxial cloths?
Originally I bought two rolls (3 and 4 inch) of biaxial tape to tab the stringer.(worked great). Then I wrapped the whole stringer with woven, but I had to keep rubbing and pushing for hours. Killer! Some areas lifted but a lot of it stuck. Seems plenty strong so I left it. Epoxy just doesn't break down the binders in the woven, it must work good with poly or vinyl-esters. I bought the standard cloth at lowes to wrap in the stringer in picture.
TitanTn
01-05-2011, 05:42 PM
I'm not sure what you call the kind at Lowes, but it does bends a whole lot easier than the woven kind.
Nice work notching out the primary stringer... The old Supra will be good as new before long.
oldman
01-06-2011, 11:04 PM
Had to cut out my own gasket for the pcm 40a. To expensive at ski-dim, have to buy the whole kit. Clamped and glued up 1/2 inch ply to existing fiberglass edging.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030467.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030466.jpg
TitanTn
01-06-2011, 11:25 PM
I think you have one of every clamp I've ever seen on sale!
sybrmike
01-07-2011, 11:24 AM
Time to modify the mantra once again - cut to fit, GRIND to shape, CLAMP in place, paint to match.
Okie Boarder
01-07-2011, 01:41 PM
Man, that is a lot of clamps. I would love being your neighbor. ;-)
Looking good!
oldman
01-08-2011, 11:47 AM
Not to the Sybrmike standard, but a pound of sand and a spray can of lacquer.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030469.jpg
jsandy
01-08-2011, 12:44 PM
damn i wish you were my neighbor
oldman
01-08-2011, 03:20 PM
There's a house next door for rent. I'm sure living in the hood of Charlotte is a dream for many people. When you pack make sure you don't forget to bring your firearms!
sybrmike
01-10-2011, 01:08 PM
Looks good - that laquer will hold up much better than my wax job. I hate blasting! - still finding sand in obscure places over a month after refinishing my hubs.
oldman
01-11-2011, 07:25 PM
Cleaned up front engine mounts. Underside of rear platform is a little spongy, had my son drill a few holes and will try and fill with epoxy. Weather been to bad to even get in the boat.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030491.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030490.jpg
sybrmike
01-11-2011, 11:34 PM
The "new" mounts look great! Are those new bushings? Did you get them from skidim (kinda pricey for hunks of rubber) or other?
My rubber's looking pretty tired & with new stringers and a straightened strut, I'll be starting from scratch on alignment anyway.
oldman
01-12-2011, 12:34 AM
Are those new bushings? Did you get them from skidim (kinda pricey for hunks of rubber) or other?
I think they are the original 89 mounts, but I can't find any cracks or problems with the rubber. I'll be putting them back in. I think skidim is the easiest place to order new.
Why did you drill holes?? All the way through? Not sure what thats going to do?:confused:
oldman
01-12-2011, 10:31 PM
Why did you drill holes?? All the way through? Not sure what thats going to do?:confused:
The holes are only through the thin layer of fiberglass mat and the thin layer of plywood, not through the thick fiberglass top layer. I'll take a pic of the topside of platform for you.
oldman
01-12-2011, 11:10 PM
Starting to fill all the little holes with cpes and epoxy resin, hoping to fix the delamination of mat and plywood of platform. Trying to rebuild sherwood raw water pump. Need to replace bearings, ceramic seal and everything else. It's been a bear to disassemble. Not even sure yet how to remove pulley from shaft. I might leave it on and just press shaft through old bearings. Any advice is always appreciated.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030497.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030496.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030495.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030494.jpg
oldman
01-15-2011, 12:46 PM
Disassembled Sherwood raw water pump, had to use heat to break apart. Do not recommend doing this, I wish that I had just bought a new one. Bought new alternator from DB Electrical for $57.00. It's a marine 105 amp single wire. I plan on running two batteries with a 1314. Does this sound right? Is a marine alternator that cheap?
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030499.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030500.jpg
wotan2525
01-17-2011, 12:37 PM
Yes. DBs are very cheap. I've been running one for years now. Never had a problem and I run a 4-battery bank. Mine has started to get sort of pitted and corroded -- not so worried about it, yet. If it dies -- I'll just buy another one. ;)
Is the water pump salvageable? The new ones are expensive!!
A marine alt only means Its sealed instead of vented so sparks cant ignite the gas fumes in the engine bay.
oldman
01-17-2011, 04:31 PM
Is the water pump salvageable? The new ones are expensive!!
Thanks for the info on alt. Yes I plan to rebuild it, not sure when. I ordered parts from skidim, about 125.00 so far. The only thing I don't like is a few wear rings inside on the brass housing by the impeller, maybe it won't have any effect.
87SunSportMikeyD
01-17-2011, 05:12 PM
DB elec is the way to go around these parts. US made, warranty. Call up and talk to Ron, he stands behind his parts and workmanship. The price is great too.
oldman
01-19-2011, 11:02 PM
Installed a piece of doug fir in main stringer. Almost filled all holes in bottom of platform, starting to get solid.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030503.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030502.jpg
mapleleaf
01-19-2011, 11:06 PM
Very interested in the partial stringer replacement, I was thinking of doing this to the back of my boat this spring. Are you just bedding the fir in with thickened epoxy and glassing over???
I wasn't sure if that would be strong enough ( only cuz I have no exp doing it) Tend to use a lot of screws and nails at work!!!!!!!
oldman
01-19-2011, 11:34 PM
Very interested in the partial stringer replacement, I was thinking of doing this to the back of my boat this spring. Are you just bedding the fir in with thickened epoxy and glassing over???
Yes just thickened epoxy and I need to glass it in still. You can make it stronger than original if you put in more layers of glass on stringer. I cut out all the rot and then treat the old solid wood with cpes. If you have to much rot it's easier to cut out the whole stringer like my secondary stringers. Until you get in there you won't know. You must remove all rot because it cannot be treated, but old solid and dry wood can be treated and glassed back in. In that patch I left the old glass in on one side for a easy guide. Some guys cut the ends of the wood at 45 degrees for extra strength.
mapleleaf
01-21-2011, 12:38 AM
looks good, We hit at rock in sept, that shook up the boat a bit, under water running gear and the backing plate in the bilge for the strut. I know I'm reglassing that bare min, so the question will be what else? I've been toying with the idea for a yr or so now.... Like you said, won't know 'til i get in there.....
whelchel86
01-21-2011, 07:18 AM
Oldman, I know this is a little off topic but did you buy this boat from a fella named Ryan in/near the Charlotte, NC area?
oldman
01-21-2011, 09:55 AM
Oldman, I know this is a little off topic but did you buy this boat from a fella named Ryan in/near the Charlotte, NC area?
Yes I did. I need to find him again, because the dmv screwed up my trailer title and I need him to sign it again. I'm not sure where he is.
oldman
01-21-2011, 11:21 AM
Block ready for rebuild next week.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030505.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030504.jpg
sybrmike
01-21-2011, 11:44 AM
I like the fancy block rotisserie :)
whelchel86
01-21-2011, 06:45 PM
Yes I did. I need to find him again, because the dmv screwed up my trailer title and I need him to sign it again. I'm not sure where he is.
Okay, I thought it looked pretty familiar. I called the guy about the boat and was supposed to go look at it but it just didn't happen. I had a feeling it might be more of a project than I had time for right now. And it looks like I was right. But you seem to be doing a fine job with it. Keep the progress and pictures coming. I Might have a phone number for him written down somewhere at work but if so, it's probably the same number that you already have. I will check on that tomorrow when I go in. I think he also was a member on here so you may be able to reach him through email???
oldman
01-21-2011, 08:46 PM
Okay, I thought it looked pretty familiar. I called the guy about the boat and was supposed to go look at it but it just didn't happen. I had a feeling it might be more of a project than I had time for right now. And it looks like I was right. But you seem to be doing a fine job with it. Keep the progress and pictures coming. I Might have a phone number for him written down somewhere at work but if so, it's probably the same number that you already have. I will check on that tomorrow when I go in. I think he also was a member on here so you may be able to reach him through email???
Whelchel
You are one lucky guy that this boat didn't happen for you! This boat is not for the faint of heart. I think I'm to old to be doing this stuff. I had Ryan's numbers, but it seem he's gone underground. I hope he reads this thread and gets in touch, just need him to sign title again. Your boat looks great!
oldman
01-21-2011, 11:00 PM
I think it's time for a new damper plate. The plate only had 3 bolts to the flywheel. Is that normal?
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030508.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030509.jpg
oldman
01-27-2011, 12:15 AM
Ordered a Surepower 1314, but they sent me a 1315. Hope it works out OK.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030512.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030510.jpg
Just think of the wind in your face and sun kissed clevage when you get in a rut!!! Nice work for an old guy!!!!
oldman
01-30-2011, 11:40 AM
Just think of the wind in your face and sun kissed clevage when you get in a rut!!! Nice work for an old guy!!!!
Thanks for the encouragement. I'm opening up the rot at the ski pole connections. Both main stringers will need repair there. I'll have to take some depressing pics. I'm looking forward to the day the structure is finished, so I can work on something a little more fun! The engine block rebuild should be done this week!
oldman
01-30-2011, 08:52 PM
Will the rot ever end? Kind of a big repair, it will take a 2x8 to fill this one in.
Running out of time, must start to put her back together soon.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030514.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030513.jpg
oldman
01-30-2011, 09:00 PM
Will the rot ever end? Kind of a big repair, it will take a 2x8 to fill this one in.
Running out of time, must start to put her back together soon.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030514.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030513.jpg
TitanTn
01-30-2011, 11:24 PM
Sorry to hear about that. The rebuilding is slow go, but a few more big weeks and you'll be buttoning up that floor and you'll feel so good knowing that it's solid. Stay at it! You'll get it licked.
oldman
02-01-2011, 12:15 AM
Sorry to hear about that. The rebuilding is slow go, but a few more big weeks and you'll be buttoning up that floor and you'll feel so good knowing that it's solid. Stay at it! You'll get it licked.
Trying to stay focus, but cutting out rot sure wears me down. Must feel good doing finish work, your interior is looking great! Now if only I can get my wife to start working on the project, spring will be here soon.
TitanTn
02-01-2011, 08:39 AM
I know exactly what you mean, and yes, it's more rewarding to do the finish work because you can see the final product. I used Ken's pics of his crazy Rider restoration and his mom helping to motivate (or guilt) my wife into helping me this weekend! I've also been using my kids to help me some, but I'm not sure if it's really help or if it slows me down.
sybrmike
02-01-2011, 11:13 AM
Always nice to finally reach that milestone in a project where you turn the ratchets over to "tighten". Keep at it - you'll get there.
oldman
02-01-2011, 11:04 PM
I've also been using my kids to help me some, but I'm not sure if it's really help or if it slows me down.
Enjoy every minute working with your kids, you'll be a old man before you know it.
NeilMcg
02-09-2011, 09:30 PM
This thread has both inspired me, as I'm at a loss to express how impressed I am with your work, but has also made me realize that I may be in over my head. Have you an idea of how much flooring you're going to need? After doing my calculations, I'm not sure I'm right...any thoughts?
Thanks!
TitanTn
02-09-2011, 10:10 PM
Enjoy every minute working with your kids, you'll be a old man before you know it.
I agree. I'm not sure where the line is that you cross when you become an old man, but it feels like it was a few years ago!
oldman
02-10-2011, 11:01 PM
This thread has both inspired me, as I'm at a loss to express how impressed I am with your work, but has also made me realize that I may be in over my head. Have you an idea of how much flooring you're going to need? After doing my calculations, I'm not sure I'm right...any thoughts?
Thanks!
NeilMcg
I grew up on Chautauqua Lake not to far from your neck of the woods. Not really to sure where the heck you are on your project. I know from you thread your doing full resto.
So lets get that top off and that motor out. Pick that top cap off nice and easy. Get a lot of lumber, 2x4's, slings, ropes, straps, zip ties, duct tape, whatever. Brace it up and get it off. You can pull a lot of parts off the motor or pull it heavy if you got a good chain, but get it out of there.
Next make sure you've got a ton of power tools in the warehouse. You need hand grinders(not just one). 4 to 5 inch thin cut diamond blades will cut through that old glass like butter. Reciprocating (sawzaw) and every blade lenox makes. Also a undercut vibrating saw for those hard to reach spots. If you can't afford good American made tools, you can buy everything you need from Harbor Freight (china) or borrow from friends. Lots of tools and lots of blades!
Once you remove all the flooring, buy some beer and have your friends remove all that old wet foam. Now your ready to start your stringers. Brace the hull if needed. Screw the seacast, You can cut out one stringer at a time, you'll always know the proper height of your stringers from the others. Go ahead stretch strings everywhere and mark your elevations on the hull before you start. Also leave a little old fiberglass on each end of the stringers so you know exactly where the ends go. Cut that stringer as flush down low as possible, save for your pattern. Remember diamond cuts fiberglass quick and a good saw blade for the wood and bedding material. Also buy some more beer and get your carpenter friend to help you with this. I used doug fir for my stringer repairs, but can use other woods.
Order a couple gal kits (to get started) of epoxy from US Composites, also tape and fabric. Leave at least a 1/4 inch gap at the bottom of new stringer for bedding material. Don't worry about precision cutting of the stringers the originals from Supra where nothing to brag about.
Well that's enough of my bs for tonight. I'll answer your flooring ? once I see pic of your new stringers. Well it's past this oldmans bedtime.
NeilMcg
02-11-2011, 09:37 AM
I gratefully accept your suggestions and pep talk, but my time schedule does not permit a fast pace, so this may very well become an extended project. Please disregard the question, I'll be able to figure it out.
Regards,
Neil
oldman
02-11-2011, 10:43 PM
Picked up engine today. It needs to be painted. I was thinking I might just brush paint it. Not sure yet. This engine was the original to the 89 boat, but had a two piece seal which I think dates it back to the early 80's or before. ??
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030524.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030523.jpg
TitanTn
02-11-2011, 10:47 PM
Looking good. Maybe I missed it, but what work did you have done on the motor?
oldman
02-11-2011, 11:19 PM
Looking good. Maybe I missed it, but what work did you have done on the motor?
Just the standard rebuild. 30 on cylinders 10 on crank. Marine cam. Everything they did was geared for the low range pull. GT40 heads. One of the guys at the shop had a edelbrock intake so they put that on, not sure if that will help any. Planning on getting a DUI distributor and a Holly 650 Carb, not sure if that is a good choice. Not sure what the HP will be, but I believe it will be very dependable.
TitanTn
02-12-2011, 09:40 AM
Sounds good. All of those upgrades combined will have to make a noticeable difference. Do you think you might get it dynoed?
oldman
02-12-2011, 11:42 AM
Sounds good. All of those upgrades combined will have to make a noticeable difference. Do you think you might get it dynoed?
I'll be lucky if I get it in the boat and running. That's my dream.
TitanTn
02-12-2011, 01:06 PM
Aww...you're groaning like an "old man!" You've been making great progress and doing great work. I have no doubt that you'll have the boat ready to go by spring. No to mention the fact that you've been doing this outside during the winter (and an especially cold winter at that). I've been working on mine along side you, but I've been doing it inside. Big difference!
It's no dream. We'll be sharing pictures of boats in motion this summer.
vvfdfirefighter
02-13-2011, 10:55 AM
Installed a piece of doug fir in main stringer. Almost filled all holes in bottom of platform, starting to get solid.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030503.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030502.jpg
I'm kind of new to this whole "stringer" post. I had a very curious question for anyone out there. With the new technology of PVC woods out there. Can they be used instead of using real wood? comes with a 25 year warranty from rot. Like TrexDeck
oldman
02-13-2011, 11:29 AM
I'm kind of new to this whole "stringer" post. I had a very curious question for anyone out there. With the new technology of PVC woods out there. Can they be used instead of using real wood? comes with a 25 year warranty from rot. Like TrexDeck
In the structure of you boat pvc and trex don't hold rigid like wood (Sag). They also create a joining problem with resins. And very heavy. However I will be putting in a trex floor in, not sure how it will work? My construction is a little odd with a lot of through bolt securing. Pvc could work out great above the floor for seat bases and other stuff.
oldman
02-13-2011, 11:32 AM
It's no dream. We'll be sharing pictures of boats in motion this summer.
Now you're talking! I'm feeling younger already.
mapleleaf
02-13-2011, 11:42 AM
So I've got some glassing work to do this spring ( or ain't I using my boat) Climate will dictate when I can get started. If I took a week of work would that be enough time to tear into a partial stringer resto???? And hit it everyday for 10-12 hours????
Heres my DIY platform fix. Jet
https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?t=6713&highlight=swim+platform
vvfdfirefighter
02-13-2011, 01:20 PM
In the structure of you boat pvc and trex don't hold rigid like wood (Sag). They also create a joining problem with resins. And very heavy. However I will be putting in a trex floor in, not sure how it will work? My construction is a little odd with a lot of through bolt securing. Pvc could work out great above the floor for seat bases and other stuff.
I have an 87 Marauder. PCM 454. Don't see or hear hardly anything about these Marauder's. Have a soft spot behind the capt seat. So I'm holding my breath its not the stringers but the decking only. Motor mounts are still rigid and tight and no other soft spots seem to be present...But I'm trying to educate myself just in case. How do you get the boat separated?
TitanTn
02-13-2011, 08:25 PM
So I've got some glassing work to do this spring ( or ain't I using my boat) Climate will dictate when I can get started. If I took a week of work would that be enough time to tear into a partial stringer resto???? And hit it everyday for 10-12 hours????
It'd be close. I think it can be done, but you'll have to avoid any "surprises."
oldman
02-13-2011, 10:05 PM
Installed ss muffler from Rex Marine, also muffler pipe support clamp
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030528.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030527.jpg
I was just thinking today..I would love to quite mine down a bit. those look great. can you post a link for those muff's? very cool man.
oldman
02-13-2011, 10:36 PM
So I've got some glassing work to do this spring ( or ain't I using my boat) Climate will dictate when I can get started. If I took a week of work would that be enough time to tear into a partial stringer resto???? And hit it everyday for 10-12 hours????
That's a hard question to answer. Because we don't know how extensive the damage is. Sometimes cutting out areas to repair takes longer than just cutting the whole stringer out. I've been puttering on my boat since October, but I just do one little job at a time. There are so many little details in repairing and restoring these boats. I couldn't do it in a week.
oldman
02-13-2011, 10:48 PM
How do you get the boat separated?
I didn't separate my boat yet, because I'm just doing partial repairs. There are a lot of threads on full renovations where the tops came off and everything done right to the bare hull. And that's the right way to do it, but it takes some time and hard work.
oldman
02-13-2011, 11:00 PM
[QUOTE=jet;50385]Heres my DIY platform fix. Jet
Jet
That's the right way to do it. My platform was soft in the thin ply between the three main supports you fixed and I didn't feel like cutting them out. They seem nice and solid, but time will tell how the drill and fill method works out.
mapleleaf
02-13-2011, 11:11 PM
Good advice, I thought since my strut, shaft backing plate, shaft log were all f'd up and my boats 21 yrs old, I would dive in and in my situation I don't really have somewhere to leave it and work on it bit by bit. I'd have to go to the farm for a week, including the weekends on either side and hit it. Prolly take a trimmer buddy of mine who's good with the "butter" saw. Gotta go up pull my gas tank and do some digging, then I'll know if the cap comes off this year or maybe next. Could just fix the bilge and put her back together this year....God I love talking about this stuff.......
sybrmike
02-14-2011, 12:27 AM
I can hear the new engine purring away already - looks great. Anticipate a few install issues with the new intake - possible carb clearance (raise the doghouse base), added fuel line length, hose lengths, etc.
Maple - I haven't logged the hours, but being Canadian I'm sure your familiar with the old Bob & Doug metric conversion and it applies to time estimates for diy boat repair - just double it & add 30. Seriously, it's easy to spend way more time than you plan. All the little gotcha's and "while I'm here I might as well"'s can really add up.
mapleleaf
02-14-2011, 01:42 AM
I can hear the new engine purring away already - looks great. Anticipate a few install issues with the new intake - possible carb clearance (raise the doghouse base), added fuel line length, hose lengths, etc.
Maple - I haven't logged the hours, but being Canadian I'm sure your familiar with the old Bob & Doug metric conversion and it applies to time estimates for diy boat repair - just double it & add 30. Seriously, it's easy to spend way more time than you plan. All the little gotcha's and "while I'm here I might as well"'s can really add up.
That's what I've been thinking all along, just trying to sell myself on something else I think. What i know I have to do now, will take a week, I just wonder if I bite off a little more during that time, I'm gonna have lots of what if's!!!
oldman
02-15-2011, 10:29 PM
I was just thinking today..I would love to quite mine down a bit. those look great. can you post a link for those muff's? very cool man.
Here it is:
http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=161103&Category_Code=silencers-inline-insert
mapleleaf
02-15-2011, 11:09 PM
$149.99 for the pair?? I'll be interested to hear (pun intended) the results.....
Hey, OM what temps are you laying glass in outside?? Might help give me some idea on how early I can get crackin......
oldman
02-16-2011, 09:08 AM
$149.99 for the pair?? I'll be interested to hear (pun intended) the results.....
Hey, OM what temps are you laying glass in outside?? Might help give me some idea on how early I can get crackin......
Yes for pair. I haven't done any glass work below 50 during daytime temps.
I use epoxy, I believe the instruction say down to 28 degrees. That's probably a perfect temp for you being a hearty northerner!
oldman
02-19-2011, 01:10 AM
Found some more rot, this will be my last rot repair this season. Those lag bolts that held the pylon structure sure caused a lot of rot. Been installing the cross members. Hopefully things will start to go back together real soon!
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030538.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030535.jpg
oldman
02-20-2011, 09:27 PM
Installed a couple pieces of trex for floor. Project moving ahead slowly.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030542.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030543.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030544.jpg
TitanTn
02-20-2011, 10:53 PM
Are you going to Trex the whole floor?
oldman
02-21-2011, 08:37 AM
Are you going to Trex the whole floor?
Plan on going down both sides with trex and maybe plate aluminum in center bilge.
TitanTn
02-21-2011, 08:52 AM
Are you going to caulk that crack between the boards so you don't feel it through the carpet?
oldman
02-21-2011, 10:55 AM
Are you going to caulk that crack between the boards so you don't feel it through the carpet?
No carpet, just cheap matting from harbor freight.
TitanTn
02-21-2011, 11:17 AM
I think you're going for a record of the highest number of unique materials used in boat restoration. This has got to be a record!
Wow! That floor is good for the next 20 years. And thats a great idea on the beilge floor. I had 2-beilge doors broken last year from people droping down from the sundeck heel first right into the center of the door and it would crock it, so your idea will work great for me. Thanks..Jet
hey what kind of flooring are you thinking about?? Post that link so we can see your idea?
oldman
02-21-2011, 11:10 PM
I think you're going for a record of the highest number of unique materials used in boat restoration. This has got to be a record!
So unique that I won't be able to sell it. Have to give it to my kids. I've never put trex in a boat floor, so I'll have to wait and see how it works. Not sure if heat off exhaust pipes will have any negative affect. Expansion-Contraction or whatever. Like my wife says just another one of your redneck specials!
oldman
02-21-2011, 11:17 PM
hey what kind of flooring are you thinking about?? Post that link so we can see your idea?
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-anti-fatigue-foam-mat-set-94635.html
mapleleaf
02-21-2011, 11:22 PM
So unique that I won't be able to sell it. Have to give it to my kids. I've never put trex in a boat floor, so I'll have to wait and see how it works. Not sure if heat off exhaust pipes will have any negative affect. Expansion-Contraction or whatever. Like my wife says just another one of your redneck specials!
Might have a little movement with heat, hopefully not too much!!
oldman
02-26-2011, 12:47 PM
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030551.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030550.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030549.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030548.jpg
Installed some more cross members left side. Glued in doug fir rot spot. My new coil and distributor with live wires arrived from Tennessee. Plan to drop engine in boat next week. Time is running out must start putting back together. Only one more rot repair for this season.
sybrmike
02-28-2011, 11:16 AM
Dang, are those spark plug wires or battery cables. Looks great - we're all in a rush now to get em done...
LOL, thats what I was thinking.
oldman
02-28-2011, 08:16 PM
Drilled 6 limber holes with 1 inch Forstner bit. It really heated up on the 2 inch doug fir stringers. Primed bilge area under motor or missing motor. Hopefully motor will be installed very soon!
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030552.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030556.jpg
TitanTn
02-28-2011, 09:26 PM
Looking good old man! I'll bet this weather we've had lately has been much more enjoyable to work in. It'll go a lot faster now.
whynot
03-03-2011, 10:40 PM
Soooo slow on progress! You should really get to work before the season is over.
oldman
03-04-2011, 11:47 PM
Put engine in boat, so I could multi-task and maybe get something done since I'm so slow and old. Contacted a old friend that is going to help me with the installation of engine parts, that should help with getting things done. Time is the enemy now!
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030557.jpg
TitanTn
03-05-2011, 02:56 PM
Contacted a old friend....
So you're getting another "old man" to help you? This ought to be good! Keep the pics coming.
Engine looks great.
oldman
03-07-2011, 11:55 PM
Sandblasted crank and water pump pulleys. Found a crack in one of the exhaust manifolds. Might just Marine Tex and see if that works.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030559.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030560.jpg
thedayafter
03-08-2011, 10:20 AM
This is amazing to watch..... just incredible to see the work and creativity involved.... I haven't bought my old Supra yet... and after looking at this.... I'll be sure to be VERY careful what I'm getting into.... can't wait to see the finished product... great effort!!
sybrmike
03-08-2011, 12:48 PM
lookin' good oldman. Bummer on the cracked mainifold. True, not much pressure to contain but don't know how well a patch will hold up to thermal cycling down at the hot end of the manifold???
TitanTn
03-08-2011, 02:34 PM
JB Weld is supposed to flex with heating and cooling cycles...
I think the jb weld would work. There isnt much pressure and jb should work. At least give it a try.
oldman
03-08-2011, 10:45 PM
Thanks for the tip I'll give that JB weld a try. Glued in backing plates for bennet actuators. Getting rid of my key and solenoid for a marine momentary switch. I'm getting old and might misplace the boat key.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030561.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030562.jpg
cadunkle
03-09-2011, 09:33 AM
I would replace that manifold. If it's cracked on the inside too you could end up seeping water into a couple cylinders while not running. Not worth the risk, Exhaust manifolds are wear items. If you do try to patch it up, I'd recommend drilling each end of the crack and welding. Welding cast iron is a tricky and won't be that strong, but should seal fine. I wouldn't trust epoxy in that application.
TitanTn
03-09-2011, 09:33 AM
Interesting switch. Is it going to be secured in someway? Anyone can just press the button and start up?
cadunkle
03-09-2011, 10:42 AM
Look at your current ignition switch Titan... Open in the rear with spade connectors? A clever 6 year old could hotwire these boats in under a minute. This can be done either at the ignition switch or by lifting the hatch and doing it at the ignition. +12v to coil, and +12v to solenoid to crank.
Okie Boarder
03-09-2011, 10:52 AM
But with a push button a drunk idiot could fall and hit it without realizing it. That same drunk idiot probably would struggle to hot wire the boat in the normal situation. I think I'd want some sort of cover or fail safe, if it was me.
I can hot wire it in 8-seconds, with a screwdriver!! Last summer I forgot my keys and didnt realize it untill I got to the lake (stupid boat owner,lol) so stopped by the local auto parts and bought a new one for a 70's mustang 3-4 prong?? and installed it in 5-mins for $7. Cheaper than driving all the way home, and now I have a spare with me. But Iam going some kind of COOL key/push button when I redo my dash.
sybrmike
03-09-2011, 11:35 AM
Straight exhaust & push button ignition - "Gentlemen, start your engines!"
duckseatfree
03-09-2011, 11:47 AM
Did you buy this boat near lake norman in Charlotte? If you did, I almost bought this one before you but I did notice that the floors were really soft. Everything looks great...I might be doing the same thing here in a few days and might be using your restore as a template for mine. Thanks for posting all the pics...
(edit*) Also, where did you get the foam?
TitanTn
03-09-2011, 03:35 PM
But with a push button a drunk idiot could fall and hit it without realizing it. That same drunk idiot probably would struggle to hot wire the boat in the normal situation. I think I'd want some sort of cover or fail safe, if it was me.
Exactly. I'm not concerned with theft. I'm more concerned about curious kids, stumbling accidents, etc. I like the push button idea, but maybe there has to be switch that's flipped first before this button has power...
cadunkle
03-09-2011, 04:22 PM
That button is just a memontary contact to crank the starter. He has another switch which will toggle power to the ignition. So leaning/tripping/curious kids hitting the button will crank the starter but not start the boat unless the ignition is on.
Even if the ignition were on and the switch were bumped so the engine started, there shouldn't be any harm done. I don't know about you guys but when I turn my boat off I always have the throttle at idle the the shifter locked in neutral, or even if sitting with the engine idling if I get out of the drivers seat I lock it in neutral to avoid the throttle accidentally being thrown in gear with no one at the wheel. It just seems like it would take one heck of a string of events for something bad to happen.
oldman
03-09-2011, 09:26 PM
Thinking about a new drive shaft. Wonder how much wear and grooving you can have before it becomes a problem? If Jet says JB Weld, than JB Weld it is. I just had to do it. Kind of curious to see how long it will last. Maybe we could take bets on who can pick the closest date of the manifold failure.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030569.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030570.jpg
oldman
03-09-2011, 09:31 PM
Interesting switch. Is it going to be secured in someway? Anyone can just press the button and start up?
Ditto Cadunkle
oldman
03-09-2011, 09:43 PM
Did you buy this boat near lake norman in Charlotte?
(edit*) Also, where did you get the foam?
Yes, I didn't plan on so may issues all at once. Can't stop now. Just trying to getter running for the season and I'll start again in late fall. Try to pick a good one, more fun on the water, than in the shop.
Not sure what you mean by foam.
jsandy
03-09-2011, 11:05 PM
i would be REALLY worried that the water jackets in the manifold cracked on the inside as well and will let water back up into your cylinders. manifolds are only about 150 a piece. and the jb wont hold unless you grind out a grove in the cracks anyways.
duckseatfree
03-10-2011, 10:29 AM
Not sure what you mean by foam.
Sorry. I mean what you filled in between the stringers...that is a spray foam right?
That drive shaft is ok also..just some cosmetic scaring. The strength comes from the center not the outside.
wotan2525
03-10-2011, 11:47 AM
I wouldn't be worried about the strength of the driveshaft, but I would be worried about its straightness. I had similar wearing (actually quite a bit worse) on mine. You should be able to take it in to a machine shop and have them measure how straight it is. I took mine to marine associates (the original OEM on these drive shafts) and they spun and tested it. They were willing to balance it for pretty cheaply but after they pointed out the wear in my keyway, I went ahead and replaced it and upgraded to a newer style coupler.
duckseatfree
03-10-2011, 11:57 AM
I wouldn't be worried about the strength of the driveshaft, but I would be worried about its straightness. I had similar wearing (actually quite a bit worse) on mine. You should be able to take it in to a machine shop and have them measure how straight it is. I took mine to marine associates (the original OEM on these drive shafts) and they spun and tested it. They were willing to balance it for pretty cheaply but after they pointed out the wear in my keyway, I went ahead and replaced it and upgraded to a newer style coupler.
How much was it to straighten or balance the driveshaft?
oldman
03-10-2011, 03:59 PM
Sorry. I mean what you filled in between the stringers...that is a spray foam right?
I won't be putting any foam between the stringers, but I would like to apply a waterproof bedliner material to the inside of the hull to seal and deaden sounds.
wotan2525
03-10-2011, 05:23 PM
How much was it to straighten or balance the driveshaft?
They told me under $40. Like I said, I ended up just buying a new shaft since my keyway was hogged to death.
oldman
03-12-2011, 10:56 PM
Since I haven't been able to get the Sunsport up and running, I took the old Malibu Skier for a spin today. One of my sons on the board.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030575.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030594.jpg
Okie Boarder
03-14-2011, 12:46 PM
Cool pic...what were the temps?
Did you convert that skier to an open bow? Is that rhino liner?
oldman
03-14-2011, 03:58 PM
Cool pic...what were the temps?
Did you convert that skier to an open bow? Is that rhino liner?
Water- 55 or below Air- 72
Yes (jig saw, still need to finish trim work) and grizzly grip liner.
Okie Boarder
03-14-2011, 05:42 PM
That's a pretty cool conversion. That's about the same temps as I experienced this past weekend. Went out with a buddy on his boat and it was 53* water and low 70* air.
oldman
03-14-2011, 10:23 PM
ngardba
That key pad is pretty cool. A little out of my price range.
oldman
03-14-2011, 10:27 PM
[QUOTE=Okie Boarder;51765]That's a pretty cool conversion.
It's a fairly simple modification if you don't cut out to much. A lot easier than rot repair.
oldman
03-16-2011, 10:46 PM
Broke down and bought 2 new manifolds (skidim). The JB weld test will have to wait. A little over half way done with the floor. Last two rot repairs of the season, one still needs to be glassed in. April is right around the corner. Still waiting for my old friend to help with engine. Hopefully soon!
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030637.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030640.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030641.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030643.jpg
wspeedin
03-21-2011, 01:15 PM
Old Man, you are doing a nice job! If your friend hasnt gotten over there to help you then ill come by and help out. Im over on the east side of Charlotte! We always ride on Mtn. Island Lake. I just finished rot repair on my Bayliner this past winter! We got her in the water this past weekend, it was like 80 degrees and the water was 57. Cold, but bareable!
jannypan
03-23-2011, 02:13 AM
I'd be looking at getting that engine out and seperating the hulls and just get to it. There are a bunch of us on here that can help you through it.
oldman
03-29-2011, 11:21 PM
I think I hit the wall! Weather has been a little cool and haven't been getting to much done. Tore out some wire and ordered some. Installed a 10 dollar fuse block. I was reading another thread and came across the perfect words for my restoration CHEAP & GETTO. Just got to get her running and on the water. I can worry about quality till next off season.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030698.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030696.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030694.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030693.jpg
oldman
03-29-2011, 11:28 PM
Old Man, you are doing a nice job! If your friend hasnt gotten over there to help you then ill come by and help out. Im over on the east side of Charlotte! We always ride on Mtn. Island Lake. I just finished rot repair on my Bayliner this past winter! We got her in the water this past weekend, it was like 80 degrees and the water was 57. Cold, but bareable!
We also ride on Mountain Island Lake, mostly on the upper river.
oldman
03-29-2011, 11:31 PM
I'd be looking at getting that engine out and seperating the hulls and just get to it. There are a bunch of us on here that can help you through it.
Next off season I'm looking to lift the top and get the rest of the wet foam out!
Thats Jerry riggin!! Not getto, lol. I added that same box for xtra power connections. Keep it up man.
sybrmike
03-30-2011, 10:30 AM
Keep up the work - every little bit helps. I'm with you - I had to take a break from my bird's nest of wiring as well. Been working on hull resto & engine detailing.
Definitely take some liberties with upgrading the wiring. I just ran a couple of runs of multiconductor wire (best I could count plus a few spares just in case) from the helm to transom & will use terminal strips to make final connections in the back rather than try to fabricate a custom harness.
It's not ghetto, it's Marine - adapt, improvise, & overcome!
I like that motto sybr..I live by it daily. Jet
Okie Boarder
03-30-2011, 04:18 PM
Is that a Sure Power isolator I see?
oldman
03-30-2011, 04:57 PM
Is that a Sure Power isolator I see?
Yes a 1315. I ordered a 14, but they sent me a 15.
wspeedin
04-01-2011, 12:12 PM
We also ride on Mountain Island Lake, mostly on the upper river.
Awesome, I put in at the Riverbend access. Well, maybe we will run into each other out there. Just look for the guy wakeboarding while sitting down. cus thats me :)
oldman
04-04-2011, 11:30 PM
Missed the dead line April 1. Wanted to have her running. Next deadline mid April, for a trip to Lake Anne. Just been me and my son trying to get her usable!
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030701.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030702.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030703.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030704.jpg
TitanTn
04-05-2011, 07:28 AM
Cool pics. Are those "spy" photos that you were able to sneak out for us? :)
sybrmike
04-05-2011, 10:58 AM
I almost feel dirty looking at sexy boat engine porn through a hidden camera - she does look sweet & fresh, though...
I feel your deadline pain. Gonna be tight hitting the lake mechanical test by May on my schedule.
Okie Boarder
04-05-2011, 12:23 PM
Ok explain to me all the buss bars with the Sure Power. Is that necessary or just the way you wanted to do it?
oldman
04-07-2011, 02:50 PM
Cool pics. Are those "spy" photos that you were able to sneak out for us? :)
My son has all kinds of strange lenses he put on his camera, I have no idea what's going on.
oldman
04-07-2011, 03:08 PM
Ok explain to me all the buss bars with the Sure Power. Is that necessary or just the way you wanted to do it?
Being a old maintenance man, it just seemed like a simple set up. A buss for each battery and a common buss for negative. Hopefully it will be easy to add power as needed down the road. The surepower connects to the positives of each battery however you want to do it.
Okie Boarder
04-07-2011, 03:44 PM
OK, good to hear. I was planning to just run a wire from the Sure Power to each battery positive to keep it simple. Your set up had me worried I needed to do more than that.
sybrmike
04-08-2011, 10:45 AM
With the Surepower, do we also just tie the two negatives together & run a single ground to the engine block?
Okie Boarder
04-08-2011, 03:50 PM
Good question sybr...I was thinking the same thing. Right now I have the main positive and negative coming in and attaching to my starting battery. My thought was that I would connect up the Sure Power to each battery positive and run a negative from my house battery to my starting battery and be done with it.
I don't think I'm going to connect mine up for starting assist. If I really need the boost, I have jumper cables on board. Usually my house battery would be the only one that gets drained.
oldman
04-08-2011, 11:22 PM
With the Surepower, do we also just tie the two negatives together & run a single ground to the engine block?
This is my first Surepower, so I can't speak from experience. Yes I tied the two negatives to one buss and I still need to run a neg. to the engine block.
The surepower has a small terminal neg. which I plan on running a 12 ga. wire to my neg. buss. Also a terminal to the starter switch. Hope it works!
oldman
04-08-2011, 11:35 PM
My house had a little renovation. This slowed down the boat progress. Still got to meet the new deadline though.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/216551_190810807628958_100001001197341_491712_1545 616_n.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/215944_190810570962315_100001001197341_491704_4429 323_n.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/215348_190810257629013_100001001197341_491696_1734 579_n.jpg
TitanTn
04-09-2011, 08:24 AM
Oh wow! So sorry to see that. I'm guessing this is from the severe storms we've had over the last couple of weeks. Lot's of trees on houses in this area too. I hope your insurance has been quick to get it taken care of.
cadunkle
04-09-2011, 11:47 AM
*scratches head* Well I don't remember THAT being there.
You gotta laugh, because if you don't... You'll cry.
Adam10705
04-09-2011, 05:38 PM
What kind of fiber glass resin and cloth did you use on your stringers and were did you get it?
oldman
04-09-2011, 06:19 PM
What kind of fiber glass resin and cloth did you use on your stringers and were did you get it?
Epoxy resin from US Composites, tape from Jamestown Distributors and cloth from Lowes.
TitanTn
04-23-2011, 05:45 PM
How's it going Oldman? We haven't had an update in a while. Are you getting close?
oldman
04-23-2011, 08:14 PM
How's it going Oldman? We haven't had an update in a while. Are you getting close?
Just got back from a week vacation on Lake Anna. Haven't had any time to post pic, because I had to pull a monster garage in order to take boat with me to the lake. First pic is from test drive on Mountain Island Lake. Had a local garage install distributor. Engine was running to hot. Broke out my 1970 Sears timing light and set timing on hose in driveway from 30 to 11 degrees. Also opened carb screws a 1/4 turn richer. Test drove the next day at Mountain Island and she ran like a champ. Next day traveled to Lake Anna. Took her out everyday for a week and she ran strong 160 degrees or cooler. I have two issues. Could smell rubber burn, I believe it is my belts and pulleys. Hopefully is just fresh paint on pulleys. Also a random clicking at idle, my only guess for now is the belts or a bad bearing in raw water pump. I will post more pic of projects as I get back to a normal pace.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030779.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030788.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030786.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030778.jpg
TitanTn
04-24-2011, 06:51 PM
Nice! I'm glad you got her out on the water. Hopefully that'll be the motivation you need to keep going. Thanks for the update.
oldman
04-24-2011, 09:08 PM
Mounted two new Johnson ballast pumps.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030790.jpg
mapleleaf
04-25-2011, 03:51 PM
Glad to see your out on the water.....boat looks great!!! How were the vibrations thru the hull with all the new structural work??? Any noticeable cowl shake???
oldman
04-26-2011, 08:43 AM
Glad to see your out on the water.....boat looks great!!! How were the vibrations thru the hull with all the new structural work??? Any noticeable cowl shake???
Didn't have any shake at all. Couple days of white caps with some ballast and people, the waves would splash right up over the sides and front. A wet ride, but she plow right through no problem. Much better than my Malibu Skier. Something about traditional 2x Dougfir, aluminum angle, ss bolts and stop nuts versus staples and foam? Why anyone would use foam is beyond me. Still need to finish removing foam from bow and repair any rot. Next off season and by the way the boat doesn't look too great!, but I'll keep work at it.
sybrmike
04-26-2011, 10:47 AM
Are you kidding? It's on the water - It looks great! She may not win any concourse ribbons, but no better testament to ingenuity, creativity, & just plain ole gettin' it done.
rlhahn
04-27-2011, 06:53 AM
Didn't have any shake at all. Couple days of white caps with some ballast and people, the waves would splash right up over the sides and front. A wet ride, but she plow right through no problem. Much better than my Malibu Skier. Something about traditional 2x Dougfir, aluminum angle, ss bolts and stop nuts versus staples and foam? Why anyone would use foam is beyond me. Still need to finish removing foam from bow and repair any rot. Next off season and by the way the boat doesn't look too great!, but I'll keep work at it.
Love what you did with the gas tank Oldman. I'm going to steel your tie down idea, if that's ok with you. Seeing you guys out on the water already is killing me! I think about boat more than sex these days...something wrong with that picture HA! I'm on the floor and trailor this week, and getting her sprayed with gatorhyde marine liner next weekend. I'll post some pics when it looks like I've actually got something done. Once again, I'm glad to see you out there...very motivating!
oldman
04-30-2011, 11:06 PM
Installed thru-hull fitting for ballast pumps. Two rocker switches for ballast pumps.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030802.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030803.jpg
oldman
04-30-2011, 11:23 PM
Love what you did with the gas tank Oldman. I'm going to steel your tie down idea, if that's ok with you. Seeing you guys out on the water already is killing me! I think about boat more than sex these days...something wrong with that picture HA! I'm on the floor and trailor this week, and getting her sprayed with gatorhyde marine liner next weekend. I'll post some pics when it looks like I've actually got something done. Once again, I'm glad to see you out there...very motivating!
Everything I do is a stolen idea for someone. Thank God for this Supra Forum, It has giving me the information needed to work on my boat. I really appreciate everyone that posts their words and pictures. I can only imagine the wasted time and errors, if I had to figure everything out myself. You have taken on a lot bigger project than my repairs, but your doing it right and will be well worth it to you when finished! (These boats are never really finished.)
oldman
05-02-2011, 09:20 PM
Started to pipe in ballast pumps. Found a piece of galv. metal grating at the scrap yard to give me clear span under my back seat. Ordered a fat sac to put underneath.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030806.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030805.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030804.jpg
TitanTn
05-02-2011, 09:27 PM
Okay. I think you said earlier that you've stolen every idea on your boat from something you've read on these forums. Now show me where you saw the metal grating seat idea! I think you're going to have to claim that one yourself.
sybrmike
05-03-2011, 10:09 AM
O.k., name a building material you haven't used in that boat? That back seat will make for some interesting patterns on the passengers' backsides ;)
Serious creativity - I love it & still jealous you're back on the water already.
oldman
05-04-2011, 09:46 PM
Installed reversing switches for ballast pumps.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030822.jpg
cadunkle
05-04-2011, 09:47 PM
A lot of creativity going into this boat. Glad to see the progress and pics!
dshaff24
05-05-2011, 11:45 PM
So I see 2 pumps.. how many sacs you using? Do you got it set up to reverse the polarity on the pumps to fill and drain? or is one pump fill and the other drain?
oldman
05-07-2011, 03:43 PM
So I see 2 pumps.. how many sacs you using? Do you got it set up to reverse the polarity on the pumps to fill and drain? or is one pump fill and the other drain?
Yes they are reversing pumps. A standard 30 amp rocker switch for each pump.(on/off/on-DPDT). Very simple to wire. One pump does sac under back set and ski locker over tank. The other pump does front bow sac and the two side sacs. I am still learning how to weight the boat, so much experimenting will be taking place.
Okie Boarder
05-09-2011, 10:54 AM
oldman,
I have mine weighted like this...
Ski Locker: ~400 lbs.
Under Rear seat: ~400 lbs.
Underneath cooler in bilge: ~350 lbs.
On floor between cooler and engine: ~250 lbs.
That seems to work very well and produce a nice wake. I experimented with something this weekend. I had a friend's bags that we use for surf weight and I left one of them up front after surfing. I laid it across the bow closest to the cooler. That bag was another ~350 lbs. It made my wake quite a bit taller, but it seemed to make it wider. I was getting more vertical in jumps, but casing the oter wake. I shortened the rope and was OK, but I'm not sure I liked it.
oldman
05-11-2011, 11:26 PM
Thanks for the info on weighting Okie. Haven't had much time to post pics, because we've been riding pretty much every day. Had a couple issues. One of my boys installed a new oil filter and didn't see the old gasket from the old filter.(double gaskets don't work good on oil filters) Sure blew a lot of oil everywhere, what a mess, luckily made it back to the launch with about 10 pounds oil pressure. The other issue, I smoked a belt the next day on the alternator pulley. Kinda scared me, but I made it back no problem idled in to launch. I think that the belt was to loose and the oil spill didn't help. Anyways I feel that my DB Electrical 105 amp alternator sure runs hot! It charges both batteries fine. If the engine is running my volt meter is right at 14 volts the whole time it's always 14 volts. I sure don't like the heat it puts out. I'm really checking the belt on that alternator before I go out to ride. Any comments on alternators?
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030862.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030827.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030826.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030824.jpg
YoungMan
05-14-2011, 10:32 PM
That O ring must have been transparent or something. That's got to be a common mistake right?
TitanTn
05-15-2011, 12:43 PM
That O ring must have been transparent or something. That's got to be a common mistake right?
You must be one of "the boys." Sure... common mistake... :cool:
oldman
05-15-2011, 08:42 PM
Got back from Mountain Island, had 650# up front 2-400# sides of doghouse, 650# under back seat and 2- 350#(not quite full) in rear ski locker. Takes a little longer to plane off, but boat handle weight nicely. Wake seemed pretty nice for my youngest son. At least he said it's pretty good. Got wakeplate working not really sure the best place to set it at. Just installed two simple momentary toggles. Top switch raises plate and bottom switch lowers plate. Bennett pump works great.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030877.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030875.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030874.jpg
That a way to stuff her full!! Any wake pictures??
Okie Boarder
05-16-2011, 09:55 AM
That's quite a bit of weight. I'd be curious to see the wake also.
Ptownkid
05-16-2011, 10:09 AM
Indeed! I have to take some of my larger friends to get up to that kind of weight!!!
Is that a sunsport?? Or a conbrio? When I see your pictures I aways feel like a sailer looking thru a tellescope. lol
Wakeboarding..Its the ONLY sport where FAT girlfriends are ok!! lol
(this email is for amusement only, and does not really refleck Jet's thoughts or feelings. lol)
sybrmike
05-16-2011, 11:22 AM
Affectionately referred to as "ballast babes"?
oldman
05-17-2011, 09:10 AM
Is that a sunsport?? Or a conbrio? When I see your pictures I aways feel like a sailer looking thru a tellescope. lol
Sunsport. I'll try and get some pictures of wake, It was just me and one of my boys the other day so it's hard to take pics. He has some weird lenses for his camera so I never know what the picture will look like. Weather has gone bad in Charlotte, should be nice by end of week.
wspeedin
05-17-2011, 09:13 AM
are you going to go back out on Mountain Island this weekend? I cant decide if I want to go there or back out to LKN. It would be cool to have two old school supras riding on the same lake.
oldman
05-18-2011, 08:47 AM
are you going to go back out on Mountain Island this weekend? I cant decide if I want to go there or back out to LKN. It would be cool to have two old school supras riding on the same lake.
We'll probably go out this Thursday and Friday after work.
rlhahn
05-21-2011, 06:34 PM
It seems like you’ve taken apart your whole boat and put her back together a couple of times. Have you ever taken apart your dash? I’ve tried to take apart the original Teleflex steering wheel, but can’t get it apart. Any tips?
oldman
05-21-2011, 09:12 PM
It seems like you’ve taken apart your whole boat and put her back together a couple of times. Have you ever taken apart your dash? I’ve tried to take apart the original Teleflex steering wheel, but can’t get it apart. Any tips?
I haven't taken mine apart yet on the supra, but have done a few on other boats. I believe the the wheel is held on by a lock nut and the shaft is tapered and keyed. Remove the cap that is covering nut. Hold the wheel and remove nut. Should be able to wiggle of wheel by hand. Remove under cover and the rest is just nuts and bolts. Something like that. Maybe someone on here could give a better description. Maybe post some pic for people.
oldman
05-21-2011, 09:28 PM
Finally had a chance to install my new horn I purchased from Walmart. The missing glass really lets the sound travel. Wake plate in the fully up and down positions. Does that look fairly normal?
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030892.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030889.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1030888.jpg
sybrmike
05-23-2011, 12:03 PM
The only thing better than the horn is the high tech mounting device!
Looks like you may have too much down travel on the wakeplate. General consensus from here (and the original owner's manual) when I was intstalling mine is that the wakeplate shouldn't travel much (if any) below horizontal & normal up is about 1.5-2". Not back on the water for awhile yet, so I can't confirm performance - but others have commented that it really pushes the bow down & handles poorly with the wakeplate too far down. You'd probably have to relocate the top mounts to shift the travel range up. Or just leave as is & you should be able to tell by feel when you've gone too far down.
Rlhahn - the hub on my original wheel was tapered & keyed to the shaft & was stuck real good. I had to use a puller to get it off. The trick for me was that the threads mounting the wheel to the hub (the holes I used to mount the puller) were the only metric I found on the boat - so had to get some long metric threaded bolts to use with the puller. Also a little tricky getting the arms of the puller behind the hub - not much room back there.
oldman
05-24-2011, 09:58 PM
Looks like you may have too much down travel on the wakeplate. here.
That's what I was thinking, because when I run it all the way down the boat is out of control and crazy spray. But I have two issue that might not let me adjust the plate. 1. If I ballast the boat heavy 2-3 Thousand pounds for wakeboarding, when I didn't have the plate hooked up, It was difficult starting out and getting the boat up on plane and had to give it some throttle and work the engine. Now if I put the plate all the way down and start out fully ballasted I don't have to stress the engine and I'm up on plane in no time and just raise the plate up as I getting closer to wakeboard speed. It's like a dream having that plate it puts you right on plane! 2. We haven't done any wakesurfing heavily ballasted yet, but once again that plate seems to do some crazy stuff to the wake (In a good way) at wakesurf speed. I have never had a plate before, so it's a lot of fun learning what they can do.
matt k
05-25-2011, 10:01 AM
it looks like you have similar travel to where I was when i ran my first test runs. For me, it was too much down, and not enough up. But I don't have the capacity for anywhere near that much ballast and my test runs were done really light, with just me and a half tank of gas. In my "wakeboarding behind a bass boat" days, we would often trim heavily to get up on plane as fast as possible, then trim back for the rest of the run, which sounds like exactly what you're doing with your heavy load of ballast. If it's working for your setup, I don't see why you'd be in a hurry to change it!
rlhahn
05-28-2011, 07:36 PM
I haven't taken mine apart yet on the supra, but have done a few on other boats. I believe the the wheel is held on by a lock nut and the shaft is tapered and keyed. Remove the cap that is covering nut. Hold the wheel and remove nut. Should be able to wiggle of wheel by hand. Remove under cover and the rest is just nuts and bolts. Something like that. Maybe someone on here could give a better description. Maybe post some pic for people.
Got it. Thanks. It had a half moon lock pin in the shaft. Tap it on the top end and the cover came right off. I found that out after I cut the dash apart though..ha. Oh well whats a little more fiberglassing?
YoungMan
06-07-2011, 07:32 AM
Here's a few tricks off the old man's boat.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1050921.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1050076.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1050028.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj135/Ivarker/P1050474.jpg
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