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View Full Version : Closed Bow/Cap Removal-Comp



jet
01-01-2011, 01:03 PM
OK..this one is a tough one. In a closed bow comp up in the nose there is a divider in the bow storage compartment, on the left there is storage and on the right is wasted space..I have my sub and amps on that side to stay dry. I want to cut out the divider for more room and maybe a bow fat sack. the question is..is the divider a support wall for walking on the nose of the boat or is it there just for what ever stupid reason? If you have pulled your cap you may know more than the rest of us. Thanks. Jet

mapleleaf
01-01-2011, 03:33 PM
I think you'd want to find a way to add ribs (rafters!) across that space for strength. Gotta wonder about added vibration while driving as well.....

stinky_1
01-01-2011, 04:42 PM
You guys are gonna be sick of me and my Nautique references but thats all I know right now.

On my nautique the entire open bow area is open. No bracing, no supports, no ribs, no dividers. I walked on that every day with no problems.

Having reinforcement is nice, and the "safe" way to go. If you take something out, its a good idea to brace it up better than factory if at all possible. I doubt the whole bow will collapse under your weight if it was not there though. You would start to get some spider cracks showing first. So, if you are not in to building it back up after with some sort of frame, then just keep an eye out for those cracks.

jet
01-01-2011, 05:00 PM
No stinky, that's cool. These boats are all so close to being the same that most info can be applied. I don't think that's its for reinforcement, I think Its just to divide the nose area. I was hoping someone had pulled the cap and could tell me for sure. Maybe I can email Viper??

96Comp
01-02-2011, 01:55 PM
Jet: I asked the same thing to Jim at Viper. He helped design the later Comps and said the divider does function structurally towards the windshield, but not so much at the nose. I cut the front 24" or so out of mine. You may notice that the divider does not meet the hull in the front. Since my heater is on the driver's side under the windshield, I could not remove any more divider. Jim said he has completely removed the divider but added support to the top decking. So, looks like you can safely remove the front part, but not the complete divider without support mods. I also relocated my battery from the storage side to the driver's side just in front of the foot well. Like yours, my subwoooofer is on the driver side.

I am thinking about ordering a custom sac to fit the area in the front. This would be a permanent fat sac that requires thru hull pump because it would be a real pain to acces it. So far have not ordered the sac. Hope this helps.

DAFF
01-02-2011, 04:31 PM
JET - Has anyone added a sac to that area in a comp before ??? My concern is the boat is allready prone to nose wash over. With the added weight mighten the boat be more like a sub... or is the nose weight evened out by the added weight to the rear.

I ran my comp mostly on the larger great lakes where wind and waves from the bigger boats was allways an issue. Rarely got to run on glass water, so adding a sac or two would scare me to death. On inland lakes I think things are much different WRT waves and running boats on the high end of the allowable weight sprectrum.

jet
01-02-2011, 10:12 PM
Thanks 96. That helps big time. Do you know if Its attached to the top cap?? Why did you move the batt to the driver side?? I use my batt to off-set the driver side. Its perfect if I have a 1-passenger, but by myself the driver weight effects the wake. Back to the divider, I would like to put a bow sac and fill it to 500-600??lbs and make it auto ballast. Daff I run a 400 in the nose right now, so yes..Its no big deal.:mrgreen:

96Comp
01-04-2011, 10:33 AM
Jett: The divider is fiberglassed to the top, but not the bottom for the front 18-20". That is the portion I cut out. Any more to the rear and I would have run into the heater. It is enough to get a V-shaped sac in the front, but it would be all the way in the front. I, too, was worried about nose weight and the "submarine effect" which is why I did not invest in the permanent sac. The battery -- well, it was in the way when accessing the ski locker. I put the cooler there -- it's a thin cooler, one of the "stackable" types. The position shift is about 15" to the right and is still relatively on the centerline. But, once I get the boat back in the water, I may find that it's too much weight on the driver side and have to move it back. Alternatively, could also go ahead with the bow sac, but make the passenger side larger than the driver side. Already put more water in the passenger V-drive sac in the back, so it should even out. The real test will be during slalom when none of the sacs are filled. Maybe the driver will have to sit in the passenger seat!

87SunSportMikeyD
01-04-2011, 11:54 AM
If I were you guys with a Comp, I would try to weight the 'bow area' however I would go about it tricky like. Instead of putting the weight forward toward the nose area I would try and keep it back toward the middle of the boat. This way you can use more weight and it will sink the whole boat a little m re than just the nose. Just an idea, it may not be possible

jet
01-04-2011, 12:13 PM
That is my exactly what I was thinking. Keep the back half of it for support and because thats where my amps are on the driverside to keep dry. Man thanks. We need MORE pic's of your boat. Postem up on the "Your Boat Here" thread. Thanks

87SunSportMikeyD
01-04-2011, 01:19 PM
Jet who you replyin to there?

jet
01-04-2011, 01:35 PM
To 96Comp. I was responding the same time you were, you just beat me to it. But to your response, your correct. The comps respond well with weight around the engine..in front, behind and on the sides. the problem with weight in front of the eng cover (I hate saying the Doghouse) is that that space in front of the eng cover is REALLY small, and know one likes walking over sacs. So i am moving that weight forward. It can handle 400 in the front and 600-700 in the rear with no worries.

96Comp
01-04-2011, 03:00 PM
I am not where I can get pics out, but love participating in the discussions! Should be able to get some out this spring or early summer. I agree with weighting beside the engine approach. Every time I get creative, I have to remind myself that this is a tournament tow boat after all. Trust me -- my job requires improvising, overcoming, adapting and creating and I can hang with the best. When it comes to the Comp -- well, not so much!

DAFF
01-04-2011, 07:47 PM
If you were to remove the ski plyon what about the area where the bilge pump sits... You in theory could get a sac from the front of the engine to the bow. I never looked how far up that area goes but I think the area would be quite adequate. Plus it would keep the weight as low as possible. As for the bilge pump ... Run a section of smaller Big O type of drainage tile down the centre and put the pump inside.

mapleleaf
01-04-2011, 08:24 PM
Not sure on a Comp, but on my Conbrio the area in front of the bilge pump is a ski locker....that's usually where I put my bow weight.
Jet, I can't seem to get 400 lb in my bow, have i got it too far forward?? Its basically in the walkthrough, length of the helm and a little into the bow cushion area.....
(typed this holding a 5 day old boy, man am I pumped!)

DAFF
01-05-2011, 05:30 AM
Let the sleepless nights begin.... Congrats on the new border in the house...

jet
01-05-2011, 11:58 AM
Well the conbrio is pretty different from the driveres seat forward than the comps. I have a HUGE storage area from the windsheild foward, but that divider cuts it in half and on the drivers side its all wasted space. But it does keep my amps nice and dry. DAFF that's a good idea if I were going to take my cap off, but doesnt look like Im going to be able to do that this winter.

Okie Boarder
01-05-2011, 03:03 PM
Does the Comp ramp up towards the floor in front of the bilge or is is basically level? The Sunsports and Saltares, seem to ramp up and close in what little space is up there. It definitely has to be modified to be opened up enough for a bag.

jet
01-05-2011, 04:09 PM
Its flat and is open till you get to the nose then it starts moving upward, but my 400 sac is like 4-5 feet long and it has no problem laying flat except for the last foot.

96Comp
01-05-2011, 07:42 PM
Jett: cut out the nose portion of the divider, take your 400lb sac and shape it into a "v" around the divider. You could try to fill it. Don't know how much you can get into it reconfigured that way -- maybe 60% capacity. The mock up will give you an idea how the bag should be shaped and where it will ride.

96Comp
01-05-2011, 07:44 PM
When I said "fill the sac" I meant to say with air. It's late here.

DAFF
01-06-2011, 01:17 AM
Actually the removal of the cap is not required. You will have to replace the carpet ... The middle section of floor is srewed in place using stainless lag bolts and the gaps of wood filled with poly filler. You would however need to saw a section of the floor out from port to starbord at an angle just this side of the bulkhead.

jet
01-06-2011, 05:45 PM
DAFF?? Huh? What are you replying to? Not taking the cap off?? just cutting a hole in the divider board.

96comp..thats exactly what I plan on doing..good idea. also the fat sac can also just go from the left side to the right side also. I will take pic's along the way.

I was going to start this weekend, but motha natura is throwing me a 4-day cold front with snowballs with cold air. *%#&!!