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View Full Version : Exhaust bolts?? Eng rebuild guys



jet
01-18-2011, 02:32 PM
I need to pull my exhaust off to redo the valve cover gaskets. My question is did you break any off taking yours off? Or did they come out ok?? Im scared several will break and then I have to start drilling and sh*t!

87SunSportMikeyD
01-18-2011, 03:20 PM
(edited) You mean the Supra Trapps right?

sybrmike
01-18-2011, 03:37 PM
Methinks he's talking exhaust manifolds.

Mine are coming off next month (leaky riser gasket & general engine detail), so let me know how it goes. I'm definitely gonna spray mine with PB blaster several times a few days out. A few heat cycles with a torch probably wouldn't hurt either. Usually slow & steady pressure with a good socket is best - don't go hittin them with an impact wrench.

DKJBama92Mariah
01-18-2011, 04:44 PM
I agree with Mike. Hose all the bolts down with PB Blaster every day for a couple days, letting it sit and soak overnight. Use heat if needed. Avoid air tools, an impact wrench WILL snap a bolt. Mine has allen head bolts, so you will want to invest in a allen-style socket to fit the bolts.

beast 496
01-18-2011, 05:39 PM
I use a 3/8 impact wrench. This really won't have enought to twist the bolts but rather rattle enough to loosen with out damage. If you should twist off a bolt, do not drill an damage head. Usually the bolt has enough to grab onto, or weld another bolt to. The heat will loosen the threads and stud can then be removed. The bolts should be grade 8 bolts Al

mapleleaf
01-18-2011, 10:29 PM
don't want to talk about how mine came off. Came down to an air chisel and grinding a head on to the remain bolt once the manifolds were off. Definitely soak'em with PB, I'd start now and pull your manifolds in a month....I'd get a gasket kit with replacement bolts just in case......
Smoke free valve covers made it totally worth it....

cadunkle
01-19-2011, 10:10 AM
There's no easy way. PB isn't going to soak in there you need it, which is at the manifold to head flange. It's an airtight seal. Use a little at the head end of the bolt. Then sloaw and steady with a ratchet. Heat cycle the bolt as needed, work up to an impact on lower power if need be. Worst case you snap and and just have to deal with it. If it snaps flush, you're probably gonna be pulling that head. Good a time as any to inspect the heads, do a little port work, and lap the valves...

Good news for you is small block Fords generally aren't too bad on snapping exhaust bolts.

csuggs
01-19-2011, 01:27 PM
Wow - there are a lot of opinions here. Well, I took exhaust manifolds off last weekend because I too need to change the valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, etc.
Anyway, I sprayed all the bolts twice with PB Blaster on Friday night, then one more time on Saturday morning and about an hour later I removed them by hand with 3/8 ratchet and allen-head socket wrench. No fuss, no muss.
Also, I removed the carb and wiring harness and flipped the motor over to remove the oil pan. We then removed one main bearing cap and one rod bearing cap for inspection. They looked nearly new!! I've got 650 hours on my '86 351W and the inside of the motor was BEAUTIFUL! No sludge, no metal, no brass showing through on the bearings. We ordered a one-piece rubber oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets and exhaust gaskets from Summit Racing because they were cheaper than skidim. Also, I'm puttijng a fresh coat of paint on the motor.

jet
01-19-2011, 01:56 PM
Thanks guys. I wanted to hear from someone that has done it recently, just to give me a idea on how hard it was going to be. I'm sure the bolts haven't been taken off in umpteen years. Keep this thread going though. :P

Mani
01-29-2011, 01:18 AM
It took a lot of pressure to get mine off, because of rust and heat, but after soaking them and using a breaker bar the bolts all came free without breaking off. Just be sure you've got it supported before you get it all the way unbolted. That sucker will drop hard. It's heavy.

I didn't reuse my old bolts either. I hit up Elliot's hardware in Plano and got all new automotive grade stainless bolts.

jet
01-29-2011, 10:19 AM
Hey mani..where you been??

beast 496
01-29-2011, 11:18 AM
Just a small hint, once you have 2 opposite end bolts removed, thread into the head a stud long enough to hand tighten. At this point you can remove all other bolts and the manifold will be supported by the two studs. This also helps with installation and gasket alignment. Good luck Al

Mani
01-30-2011, 06:11 PM
In hiding. Ever since my boat pooped out, it's been sitting at a friend of mine's shop who works on it in his spare time. I think the carb is just stopped up with junk and needs a rebuild.

I try to keep my mind off my boat frustrations as much as possible which unfortunately means I don't come here as much either.

jet
01-30-2011, 09:21 PM
Im on here everyday now. Its my new Facebook! lol

mapleleaf
01-31-2011, 12:07 AM
Just a small hint, once you have 2 opposite end bolts removed, thread into the head a stud long enough to hand tighten. At this point you can remove all other bolts and the manifold will be supported by the two studs. This also helps with installation and gasket alignment. Good luck Al

That's exactly how we did mine, made the job a lot smoother.....

Mani
01-31-2011, 10:49 PM
Im on here everyday now. Its my new Facebook! lol

Ha! Facebook will be the end of me. Im not a post-o-maniac, but I do lurk everything.

dshaff24
02-01-2011, 01:59 AM
Wow - there are a lot of opinions here. Well, I took exhaust manifolds off last weekend because I too need to change the valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, etc.
Anyway, I sprayed all the bolts twice with PB Blaster on Friday night, then one more time on Saturday morning and about an hour later I removed them by hand with 3/8 ratchet and allen-head socket wrench. No fuss, no muss.
Also, I removed the carb and wiring harness and flipped the motor over to remove the oil pan. We then removed one main bearing cap and one rod bearing cap for inspection. They looked nearly new!! I've got 650 hours on my '86 351W and the inside of the motor was BEAUTIFUL! No sludge, no metal, no brass showing through on the bearings. We ordered a one-piece rubber oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets and exhaust gaskets from Summit Racing because they were cheaper than skidim. Also, I'm puttijng a fresh coat of paint on the motor.

All that work and no pics? You feeling okay? I honestly believe the 351 is a Tank for a motor~

Stickleback25
02-01-2011, 05:45 PM
I had to replace mine last spring due to previous owner not winterizing boat, luckily just the risers were cracked and he payed $500 for the new ones. It could have been much worse. At least I got to try out my new bilge pump.

I also removed them by hand with 3/8 ratchet and allen-head socket.
" steady pressure." I didnt break any.

vvfdfirefighter
02-28-2011, 06:11 PM
I need to pull my exhaust off to redo the valve cover gaskets. My question is did you break any off taking yours off? Or did they come out ok?? Im scared several will break and then I have to start drilling and sh*t!

Having done a little mechanic work myself I would suggest this to you. PB breaker is nice, but it won't travel through the threads while using heat if needed. Go to NAPA and pick you up a can of Deep Creep. Its made by seafoam. loosen the bots a few turns spray Deep Creep in the threads. Do this a few times and let them sit overnight. Tomorrow I'm pretty sure they will almost come out by hand! if not, put a torch to the bolt heads...just to warm them up, spray the deep creep, and the heat will pull it inside the treads and you can work the bolt out just then!

csuggs
03-01-2011, 10:05 AM
All that work and no pics? You feeling okay? I honestly believe the 351 is a Tank for a motor~

Haha - check the pics on my thread "86Sunsport-phase2" :)