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rlhahn
02-06-2011, 09:17 AM
Thanks for all your posts. It gave me the info and, more importantly, the courage to tackle this. I bought this boat off craigs list for $1500, knowing the motor lost oil pressure. Pulled the motor and broke it down. Piston sleeves need polishing, new piston rings, new cams and cam shaft. While motor is out I thought "why not wet sand and put new paint on...
I opened a can of worms there. Started pulling seats out and found some rot. Being a carpenter I know that where there is rot on the surface there is usually rot in the substructure. I had my fingers crossed because the deck was new, but when I did a core check on the joist it showed rot also. Crap! I'm gutting her. She's had her top off before because there is a thousand rivots and two pounds of silicon holding it down...good times.

Well after pulling the brand new deck someone put in I found rot, water, and mold. There was even a little cockroach under there. They used "Great Stuff" to foam in a couple of sections. The foam was literally soaked. After removing it all the boat was probably 200#'s lighter. The floor joist are rotten, so I'll be taking those out as well. Looks like it's going to be a "SUPRA-BOWL SUNDAY"..HA!

Okie Boarder
02-06-2011, 12:42 PM
Good for you. Take lots of pictures. Not surprised to hear about the water, mold and rot.

TitanTn
02-07-2011, 12:08 AM
It looks like you're making good progress already. Keep us up to date with pics!

dshaff24
02-07-2011, 12:26 AM
Welcome to the IN to Deep and No Return Now Club! Its worth it when done right! keep the pics rolling!

NeilMcg
02-07-2011, 06:17 PM
Congtrats on your project. Any questions or concerns, Just ask :D

rlhahn
02-07-2011, 08:57 PM
Got everything loose from lid and cranked it up today. Just need to get my buddies over to move it...funny how they are always around in the summer when it's "wakeboard time"..Ha!!!

sybrmike
02-07-2011, 10:26 PM
Great job on the lift (but I'm partial to the garage rafter set-up)! I like the hay bale jack stands :) (too bad I gave away the hay when I sold the last horse). At least with all that Great Stuff, she was well insulated and not as drafty. If the trailer is decent, sounds about where I started with my Saltare.

Yeah, my buddies split too once I started talkin' about crazy things like cutting a running boat in two & unleashing 25 year old mold spores and toxic gunk from rotting foam. Can't imagine why they wouldn't want to share in breathing resin fumes & fiberglass dust???

Good luck & let us know if we can help. Don't always have answers, but opinions aplenty.

rlhahn
02-08-2011, 08:12 AM
I know..right?! I used a bottle jack and those big yellow straps to get her off the trailer. I was a little nervous about her weight flexing the joist and cracking the grout on my bathroom floor (just finished that project), so I used the hay bails..works great and molds to the contour of the hull nicely. Most importantly, I didn't have to spend any money!

sybrmike
02-08-2011, 11:36 AM
Yeah, there'll be plenty of opportunities to spend money as you progress...

rlhahn
02-10-2011, 08:26 AM
just wondering if it is nessary to add foam under the deck? I was looking at khelfrich's restoration pics. on shutterfly and I don't think he did. If I can get away without it I will ($244.00 saved).

rlhahn
02-10-2011, 08:43 AM
just wondering if it is nessary to add foam under the deck? I was looking at khelfrich's restoration pics. on shutterfly and I don't think he did. If I can get away without it I will ($244.00 saved).

I also saw a guy that used ping-pong balls. He said after ten years it looked the same as when he put them in.

TitanTn
02-10-2011, 10:03 AM
I think you will find that a good number of people here did not put foam back after a stringer repair.

rlhahn
02-10-2011, 10:23 AM
I think you will find that a good number of people here did not put foam back after a stringer repair.

Thanks TitanTn. That is what I wanted to hear.

sybrmike
02-10-2011, 12:58 PM
Coast Guard regs require flotation in boats, but exempt those over 21' (at least I think it's 21'). It's not like you're gonna get pulled over for a foam check, but might get sticky with insurance if it ever sunk & regs required it & you didn't have it.

Otherwise I think it's personal preference.

Pro's - could be the difference between swamping & sinking, adds some strength (still convinced it was the only thing holding my Saltare together), sound insulation for a quieter ride.

Con's - notorious for eventually becoming wet, holding moisture, & leading to rot, added dead weight once it's wet (could be a pro if considered as permanent ballast :)), added cost, added mess.

Sure, it might take 10-20 years for it to get saturated, & properly sealed structure (unlike the factory did 20 years ago) will last a long time even with wet foam. Also, look at Salty87's thread for his novel solution which could help as well. That being said, I went foamless just cause I wanted the boat to be able to dry out down there. If you go foamless, don't forget to add some limber holes at the bottom of the stringers so water isn't trapped.

jet
02-11-2011, 04:51 PM
Wait!! Soaked foam in the floor? 10'Lx6'W=60 sq ftx8lbs(water)=480lbs of BALLAST!! Leave it!! LMAO! Jet

jet
02-11-2011, 05:08 PM
Hey rlhahn. I sure need a few pictures from up under that nose, top and bottom...PLEASE???? I want to cut a whole in my nose/divider so a sac can go across side to side on there. Check out my resto pic's below and if you need anything pm me or call. Jet

Stickleback25
02-11-2011, 05:30 PM
I wonder If this boat had foam (not a Supra by the way)

This is what happens when you try to fit 30 people in a boat built for 8.

rlhahn
02-12-2011, 05:11 PM
Hey rlhahn. I sure need a few pictures from up under that nose, top and bottom...PLEASE???? I want to cut a whole in my nose/divider so a sac can go across side to side on there. Check out my resto pic's below and if you need anything pm me or call. Jet

I finally had some help last night moving the top over. Here are a few pics I took for ya. Hope they help. I'll be cutting new stringers and glassing this week, wish me luck.

jet
02-12-2011, 07:52 PM
THANK YOU!! OK so the divider is attached to the top not the floor?? I just tore my floor up today, Im right behind you. lol

jet
02-13-2011, 10:52 AM
We need to move this thread to service and repair?? Mikey? Can we..I think more people will find it. I couldn't even remember where I saw it at, I had to go into user cp to find it. Jet

vvfdfirefighter
02-13-2011, 11:12 AM
Congtrats on your project. Any questions or concerns, Just ask :D

Has anyone tried using Composite wood alternatives? Trex makes a composite PVC that is supposed to have a 25 year no rot warranty? If you did use something like this, would you still epoxy?

mapleleaf
02-13-2011, 11:30 AM
I'm not sure that Trex's product will have the same strength. There are composite stringers available for sale......

NeilMcg
02-13-2011, 07:05 PM
Has anyone tried using Composite wood alternatives? Trex makes a composite PVC that is supposed to have a 25 year no rot warranty? If you did use something like this, would you still epoxy?

I'm going with Coosa board bluewater 26. It's expensive, but it's lightweight and resin is optional. Tamara Fee is the rep and is able to answer any questions.
Phone: 205-663-3225 ext 102

vvfdfirefighter
02-13-2011, 08:07 PM
I'm not sure that Trex's product will have the same strength. There are composite stringers available for sale......

Trex makes residential composite decking material...2x4,2x6....

vvfdfirefighter
02-13-2011, 08:10 PM
I'm going with Coosa board bluewater 26. It's expensive, but it's lightweight and resin is optional. Tamara Fee is the rep and is able to answer any questions.
Phone: 205-663-3225 ext 102

Thanks NeilMcg, I'll keep that in mind, but I still have my fingers crossed that its just the one soft spot behind the driver seat towards the bilge. Everything is origional on my boat. Even the upholstery. So we'll see what happens...Needs to get re-upholstered in the next year or so, its starting to show signs of cracking.

vvfdfirefighter
02-13-2011, 08:12 PM
You weren't kidding about expensive at all! Wow.

mapleleaf
02-13-2011, 08:17 PM
Trex makes residential composite decking material...2x4,2x6....

I work with it every spring when somebody needs a deck. I think its way to flexible to offer the structure a hull needs. Still it wouldn't rot, I'll give you that!!
25 yrs wouldn't be long enough, when the wooden ones are basically lasting that length. There's a composite supplier selling stringer material for boats, just can't remember which thread it was posted in....

vvfdfirefighter
02-13-2011, 08:22 PM
I work with it every spring when somebody needs a deck. I think its way to flexible to offer the structure a hull needs. Still it wouldn't rot, I'll give you that!!
25 yrs wouldn't be long enough, when the wooden ones are basically lasting that length. There's a composite supplier selling stringer material for boats, just can't remember which thread it was posted in....

That's exactly why I asked the question. Thanks for the Answer. Note to self, its too flexible!!! We'll scratch that thought then and move to the next.

vvfdfirefighter
02-13-2011, 08:39 PM
I finally had some help last night moving the top over. Here are a few pics I took for ya. Hope they help. I'll be cutting new stringers and glassing this week, wish me luck.

Just a curious question fo ryou rlhahn? I've heard talk on other boat forums about replacing stringers...Now in more than a handful of other pages I've seen people say NOT to let the new stringers touch the Hull of the boat...They say You will set up local stress points that will crack the hull. Many people suggest a 1/4" gap between the stringer and the hull....Has anyone heard this before???

rlhahn
02-13-2011, 10:12 PM
Don't know about that one?? How would you attach the stringers if they aren't touching the hull?

rlhahn
02-13-2011, 10:21 PM
Has anyone tried using Composite wood alternatives? Trex makes a composite PVC that is supposed to have a 25 year no rot warranty? If you did use something like this, would you still epoxy?

I don't see why you couldn't use a composit wood product for the stringers. My only question would be "if you didn't glass and epoxy them what would hold them in place?"

mapleleaf
02-13-2011, 11:24 PM
That gap is being left for your bedding material, where you'll lay it up and create the rounded fillet for the glass to lay over where it meets the hull....

vvfdfirefighter
02-14-2011, 11:59 PM
That gap is being left for your bedding material, where you'll lay it up and create the rounded fillet for the glass to lay over where it meets the hull....

what do you use for bedding material?

rlhahn
02-15-2011, 07:12 AM
That gap is being left for your bedding material, where you'll lay it up and create the rounded fillet for the glass to lay over where it meets the hull....

What is the bedding material? Do you mean the foam? If so, I'm not using foam.

jet
02-15-2011, 11:41 AM
Is this for real?? Why would you gap it?? I thought guys were just using 5200 to glue it to the floor?

WakeSurfCanada
02-15-2011, 11:42 AM
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=bedding+material+%2B+stringer+replacement+

vvfdfirefighter
02-15-2011, 06:54 PM
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=bedding+material+%2B+stringer+replacement+

WakeSurfCanada, although I thank you for the help with your google search sarcasm, the whole reason for this thread is to ask questions. Again I thank you for your help, but may I remind you that some of us are just looking for advice, since people on here have done the work already and I've seen people talk about doing it differently on different pages.

vvfdfirefighter
02-15-2011, 07:28 PM
That gap is being left for your bedding material, where you'll lay it up and create the rounded fillet for the glass to lay over where it meets the hull....

"Run a router with a round over bit over bit over the top of the stringers. The biaxle will conform much easier than any roven woven and is stronger. Run some generous fillets down each side of the stringer. 1 1/2in radius. To make things easier to lay. Run the biaxle down each side. Cover the fillet and go to
the top -- side of the stringer, but don't wrap it over the top. Tape the top of the stringer with several layers of 8oz tape. This will help from getting air traped under your glass and be easier to lay. Smaller pieces are always easier to handle."

My question now is what is a founded fillet????

jet
02-16-2011, 11:15 AM
I thought that most people were using 5200 to bond to the floor and then laying over with cloth?? Would that not work?

what is biaxle, roven woven..use 8oz tape?? Really? Im very confused now.:?

sybrmike
02-16-2011, 11:37 AM
A fillet is just a rounded corner. You can make bedding and fillet material by mixing a filler (micro balloons, talc, chopped strand, wood dust, etc) with resin to form a goopy putty like substance.

You want to use a bedding material between the stringers and hull so that there is uniform contact between the two surfaces which avoids air pockets and local stress points that can lead to cracks. It takes a little practice to get the consistency just right - too dry & it won't squish well, too wet & it won't hold shape. Be fairly liberal with laying down the bedding material and use what squishes out when you set the stringer in to form a radius (fillet) between the hull and stringer before it sets up (I like to use the rounded end of a 1" wide wooden tongue depressor). You'll probably have to go back after it sets to build up and dress up the fillets before glassing. Again, a fillet is just a radiused filler to help the glass lay down in the corner.

1-1/2" seems pretty big for biaxial cloth. I'm no glassman, but I can lay heavy 17 oz biaxial with a 1/2 to 1" fillet. Also, rather than sanding the fillets perfectly smooth prior to glassing - you can rough sand (80 grit) them relatively smooth & then lay down another pass of fillet filler material and then lay the glass while the filler is still wet. This way you can really work the glass into the fillet without bubbles. Preparation is key (cloth pre-cut, all supplies handy, etc.) & have to pre-wet the cloth, work quickly, & watch your resin kick times.

TitanTn
02-16-2011, 11:46 AM
A fillet is just a rounded corner. You can make bedding and fillet material by mixing a filler (micro balloons, talc, chopped strand, wood dust, etc) with resin to form a goopy putty like substance.

You want to use a bedding material between the stringers and hull so that there is uniform contact between the two surfaces which avoids air pockets and local stress points that can lead to cracks. It takes a little practice to get the consistency just right - too dry & it won't squish well, too wet & it won't hold shape. Be fairly liberal with laying down the bedding material and use what squishes out when you set the stringer in to form a radius (fillet) between the hull and stringer before it sets up (I like to use the rounded end of a 1" wide wooden tongue depressor). You'll probably have to go back after it sets to build up and dress up the fillets before glassing. Again, a fillet is just a radiused filler to help the glass lay down in the corner.

1-1/2" seems pretty big for biaxial cloth. I'm no glassman, but I can lay heavy 17 oz biaxial with a 1/2 to 1" fillet. Also, rather than sanding the fillets perfectly smooth prior to glassing - you can rough sand (80 grit) them relatively smooth & then lay down another pass of fillet filler material and then lay the glass while the filler is still wet. This way you can really work the glass into the fillet without bubbles. Preparation is key (cloth pre-cut, all supplies handy, etc.) & have to pre-wet the cloth, work quickly, & watch your resin kick times.

Thanks for this explanation. I've heard it described before and had a decent understanding, but this was very clear and easy to follow. Thanks for taking the time to type it all out.

rlhahn
02-16-2011, 07:56 PM
Thanks for this explanation. I've heard it described before and had a decent understanding, but this was very clear and easy to follow. Thanks for taking the time to type it all out.

Yes, thank you for the clear explanation. One more question. I've cut my stringers to fit very tight to the hull. I would say they are making about 85 to 90% contact. Is this a good thing, or a bad thing? Now that I've read your paragraph on bedding material I'm not sure if I should do the fiberglass over the stringers yet.

sybrmike
02-17-2011, 11:31 AM
Great job getting that much contact - the more the better. The bedding material itself is not inherently strong, so the tighter the stringer fit, the less bedding material needed, and the stronger the structure.

Lay a bead of bedding material down down the entire length of the center of where the stringer will go. The thickness will depend on just how tight the stringer/hull joint is. You want just enough bedding material so that it squishes out both sides of the stringer and fills all the gaps, but not too much so that you can't get the stringer pushed down all the way. Again, re-work the bedding material that squishes out to form the base pass of your fillets.

rlhahn
02-17-2011, 02:08 PM
Great job getting that much contact - the more the better. The bedding material itself is not inherently strong, so the tighter the stringer fit, the less bedding material needed, and the stronger the structure.

Lay a bead of bedding material down down the entire length of the center of where the stringer will go. The thickness will depend on just how tight the stringer/hull joint is. You want just enough bedding material so that it squishes out both sides of the stringer and fills all the gaps, but not too much so that you can't get the stringer pushed down all the way. Again, re-work the bedding material that squishes out to form the base pass of your fillets.

Awsome. Thanks!

Okie Boarder
02-17-2011, 06:42 PM
Another way to bed the stringers is to set them in place so the tops are where you want and there is a gap at the bottom. Shim them up to get that gap. Then you can brace them in place so they are level and plumb. Then fill the gap with the bedding mix...using a ziplock bag with the corner cut out works well. This gives a lot more time to work with it then the method already mentioned. Either one would work well and be effective, it would just be a matter of personal preference and how much time pressure you want to be under while getting it set in place.

sybrmike
02-17-2011, 08:28 PM
Okie makes a good point. 1000 ways to skin a cat, just find the way the works best for you.

rludtke
02-18-2011, 02:13 AM
Just a curious question fo ryou rlhahn? I've heard talk on other boat forums about replacing stringers...Now in more than a handful of other pages I've seen people say NOT to let the new stringers touch the Hull of the boat...They say You will set up local stress points that will crack the hull. Many people suggest a 1/4" gap between the stringer and the hull....Has anyone heard this before???

It is common practice to maintain a gap between the backside of the decorative composite surface (such as a mold or layup tool), and the supporting wood or other structure, to prevent the backing structure from "printing" through to the finished surface. The backing strucure is laminated in place on both sides, but a gap is maintained by tacking it in place with dobs of body filler, so that the wood (or other) material does not touch the surface laminants. Print through will not likely be a problem on the thick boat hull, and if it occurred, nobody could see it.

Instead of body filler and gaps, I would shape your stringers and frames to match the contour of the hull, and bed them in place with a bead of body filler spread down the lenght of the structure. Set the structure in place, and form the squeeze out on either side into a fillet (radiuses) with a popsicle stick or tounge depressor (larger radius) which helps the fabric transition across the sharp inside corner. Dabs of hot glue can be used to temporarily hold the structure in place and to each other until the body filler sets up.Then the parts and fillets are ready to be sanded and laminated in place.

rlhahn
02-22-2011, 07:57 PM
So I've been a little preoccupied and haven't been making the progress that I thought I would. Got her cleaned out and ready for floor. Lots of grinding, sanding and DUST. The factory "glass job" had a few air bubbles, and when I'd set the grinder to them, they would be full of water...?? How the hell does that happen?

mapleleaf
02-22-2011, 10:26 PM
So I've been a little preoccupied and haven't been making the progress that I thought I would. Got her cleaned out and ready for floor. Lots of grinding, sanding and DUST. The factory "glass job" had a few air bubbles, and when I'd set the grinder to them, they would be full of water...?? How the hell does that happen?

Foam....keeps the water where you don't want it....
Great work so far, ur helper looks very pleased...

jet
02-23-2011, 12:38 PM
How do you set the floor up at this point to lay the stringers (i have seen string used)?? And..the stringers are different heighths at diff points??

rlhahn
02-23-2011, 10:53 PM
First make sure that your trailer is level, and your boat is level. I started by marking the same measurements from the stern on both sides, and then continue with one foot increments as far as I could get to the bow. I then ran some 1" screws in that flange that is left on the sides after you take out your floor. Pull your line (I used nylon fishing line) across at every 1' you put the screws. I then snapped a chalk line along the bottom close to where the old ones were and used a level to mark the floor and the string at all the one foot locations. Start pulling measurements and transfering them to your lumber. To get the angles of the bevel cut you can measure over the width of your new stringer (mine was 1-1/2") on the floor and the string above. Then take that differance and draw to lines that extend out 10", then use a speed square to get the deg. I probably didn't explain that to well, but it worked for me. I just used a circle saw and kept adjusting the bevel as I cut. Here are some pics that may or may not help...good luck.

mapleleaf
02-23-2011, 11:18 PM
Is that one of those Stanley fans in the background, I love mine, bring it to almost every jobsite!!
Stringers look good, you're making quick work of this thing.....

rlhahn
02-24-2011, 09:05 AM
Yes Stanley. They do work great, and I like the two outlets on the side.

Okie Boarder
02-24-2011, 07:23 PM
In addition to measurements at intervals, like mentioned, you can take the approach of doing one stringer at a time so you always have the others still in there to refer to for height. Trying to match the new stringer height to those and make it level would work.

You're making progress quickly...looking good!

rlhahn
02-24-2011, 09:29 PM
Thats true, just don't forget to compensate for the fiberglass and resin on top of the old stringers or the floor will be about 3/8 higher than the old one.

mapleleaf
02-25-2011, 01:17 AM
Love the interior shot, I set my bench up for winter seating in the basement while making some upholstery "adjustments". My 3 yr old loves it! Looks like an old Steve Caballero and maybe a Gonzales board leaning up there too!
BTW stringer's look farck'in amazing, got plans for the engine mount bump out (or step)?Never mind just saw it in pic 3..
Kinda makes me wanna book off work and gut my boat!

rlhahn
02-25-2011, 08:53 AM
Love the interior shot, I set my bench up for winter seating in the basement while making some upholstery "adjustments". My 3 yr old loves it! Looks like an old Steve Caballero and maybe a Gonzales board leaning up there too!
BTW stringer's look farck'in amazing, got plans for the engine mount bump out (or step)?Never mind just saw it in pic 3..
Kinda makes me wanna book off work and gut my boat!

dogtown and tow machine. my 8 yr old has been buggn me to get all that "crap" off the ramp so he can skate. I said he needs to be on the trampoline practicing for a summer full of awsome wakeskating and wakeboarding in our awsome boat! Thanks for the compliment on the stringers. I want to do this thing right so I don't have any worries for the next few seasons.

oldman
02-25-2011, 05:22 PM
I want to do this thing right so I don't have any worries for the next few seasons.

Don't forget the cpes.

Okie Boarder
02-25-2011, 06:13 PM
Don't forget the cpes.

Definitely second that. Coat that wood before you actually install it in the boat.

jet
02-25-2011, 06:49 PM
What size wood are you using for the motor mounts and are they bolted to the center stringer?? Im right behind you man. Nice work and thanks for the pics. Jet

rlhahn
02-25-2011, 07:37 PM
Definitely second that. Coat that wood before you actually install it in the boat.

right on. Yea I'm sanding them with 60grit then a healthy coat of sealer, then sanding again with 80grit, then resin and fiberglass, then install.

rlhahn
02-25-2011, 08:04 PM
No progress today due to bad weather and I got my truck stuck in the yard...good times.

mapleleaf
02-25-2011, 08:12 PM
mud n snow, great combo....

jet
03-06-2011, 03:55 PM
Any new updates??

rlhahn
03-06-2011, 07:58 PM
Any new updates??

Did some fiberglassing Monday eve. I've been working long hours building a house, so I havn't been on it like I should. I did get the motor back and started putting that back together...I'm starting to stress a little about getting this done. Oh I got a quote on having it wrapped with a graphic that I drew and I've been pricing sound systems. How bout you?

Longitudinaldreamer
03-09-2011, 10:58 PM
Maybe a dumb question but has anyone ever heard of people using PL400 for the initial stringer bond and fillet material? That stuff is great and is considered water proof and an all around everyday item in the construction industry.

BTW, great thread! I'm glad I stumbled across it as I am about to start laying down my stringers as well. I am using marine grade plywood instead and WILL NOT be putting foam back in. Thanks for the advice on accounting for the thickness of glass and resin over the top of each stringer! I some how over looked that in my initial calculations.

Keep up the great work!

jet
03-10-2011, 04:51 PM
What wood size and thickness are you using for the eng mounts?? Im wating on those pictures. Hurry!! lol

oldman
03-11-2011, 09:12 PM
[QUOTE=Longitudinaldreamer;51527]Maybe a dumb question but has anyone ever heard of people using PL400 for the initial stringer bond and fillet material?

PL Premium 100% Polyurethane is also a good bedding material. Lowes also carries SikaBond Universal, claims permanent bond even under water.

Longitudinaldreamer
03-12-2011, 05:46 PM
Oldman-

Thanks for the info....I know that stuff works great on passed out roomies as well.

rlhahn
03-12-2011, 06:13 PM
What wood size and thickness are you using for the eng mounts?? Im wating on those pictures. Hurry!! lol

The mounts were a little tricky. I just measured off the old ones to get it right. I made them 4 1/2" thick or three 1 1/2" boards glued and carriage bolted together and then fiberglass. I did make the bow end stringer about 8" longer so my plywood will break better and for more support by the seats.

jet
03-13-2011, 12:58 PM
rlhahn on post #55 your pictures shows your main stringer on each side of the motor shows its straight from front to rear?? From the rear of the boat mine makes a left, then straight pass the motor, then right to the main stringer, then straight again to the front of the boat?? Are you changing the design? I want to follow your way?? Can you explain? Thanks. Im right behind you in my project. And how is your peanut butter part coming? I owe you a beer now. lol

rlhahn
03-13-2011, 08:33 PM
rlhahn on post #55 your pictures shows your main stringer on each side of the motor shows its straight from front to rear?? From the rear of the boat mine makes a left, then straight pass the motor, then right to the main stringer, then straight again to the front of the boat?? Are you changing the design? I want to follow your way?? Can you explain? Thanks. Im right behind you in my project. And how is your peanut butter part coming? I owe you a beer now. lol

I didn't change the design except for making the outside stringer longer. I know that the stringer designs do vary from year to year, but as long as you keep the motor mount section the same, I'd say you can do whatever. As far as mine is concerned the inside stringers (closest to the motor) are continious. I did have to notch them to the correct level for the motor, and then it's just a matter of cutting the other two to match, and then cut your last one back up to the deck height, and then glue and bolt them all together.

Okie Boarder
03-14-2011, 12:59 PM
jet,

Take some pictures of yours and post them in your thread. I'd bet they are the same as most other Supras which means the main stringer portion is straight, then it is added to where it seems to jog over towards the outer edges of the boat. The main part of the stringer isn't taking a jog out, most likely. Likely it isn't as tall vertically, right there and that is where you add other structure to build it out to the edges, at the lower height.

rlhahn
03-14-2011, 01:23 PM
jet,

Take some pictures of yours and post them in your thread. I'd bet they are the same as most other Supras which means the main stringer portion is straight, then it is added to where it seems to jog over towards the outer edges of the boat. The main part of the stringer isn't taking a jog out, most likely. Likely it isn't as tall vertically, right there and that is where you add other structure to build it out to the edges, at the lower height.

You are correct Okie. My old ones were made of cheap plywood slapped together. I don't even think it was marine grade. Even the step down for the motor was plywood, I'm not supprised that the mounts in these things come loose. I don't like how the cross members cut through the stringers. At almost every notch I had water damage.

jet
03-14-2011, 01:50 PM
OK, thats making since now. I will take a picture tonight. I think syber said his mounts were hollow? Yep, If you can picture 3-2x4's stacked, but then pulled the bottom one out?? There was a void under there and it had water in it but it was just sitting on the hull. What were those guys smokin back then? lol

Okie Boarder
03-14-2011, 05:40 PM
jet,

Here's a pretty good picture that let's you see how it can be done. Essentially you will have stringer, 2x4, 2x4, ply that are all about 4" tall. That creates the square and flat area the motor mounts sit on. Then you will have ply that is back at floor height to wrap it. You can see the build up pretty well on the left side of this picture.

I wouldn't worry as much about how it 'was' done and worry about how it 'should' be done. ;-)

TitanTn
03-14-2011, 08:54 PM
Okie - I would love to be able to show that photo to Supra back in the day. After they picked their jaws off the floor they'd explain how this level of excellence can't be achieved in a production environment. If they had done it like this originally, well maintained boats would never have to be rebuilt. Beautiful work.

Okie Boarder
03-14-2011, 10:33 PM
Remember, they only need to manufacture something to outlast the warranty. Also, if they made it 'right' you wouldn't need to by something from them 5 or 10 years down the road, in addition to the fact they would have to charge more. I personally don't fault the decisions they made. :)

TitanTn
03-15-2011, 09:02 AM
I don't necessarily fault their decisions, as they have to make the production process affordable, but I think even when they decided to cut some corners, their execution was not even up to the level of the decision they made to cut the corner. I'm not picking on Supra particularly, I just think it was an issue of the industry in the 80s where they weren't as concerned with QC and consistency as manufacturers are today.

jet
03-15-2011, 09:57 AM
OK, now Im understanding. Okie where is your original thread?? Canb you post the link for me or tell me what to search for? I know you took so many picks I could use for reference. Thanks for your help man.

rlhahn
03-15-2011, 06:43 PM
I don't necessarily fault their decisions, as they have to make the production process affordable, but I think even when they decided to cut some corners, their execution was not even up to the level of the decision they made to cut the corner. I'm not picking on Supra particularly, I just think it was an issue of the industry in the 80s where they weren't as concerned with QC and consistency as manufacturers are today.

I think the boat design was awsome back then (almost ahead of the times). That is why it's totally worth restoring. I just wish that people, then and now, would do things right all the way through a poject. I guess if they did that I'd be out of a job though...HA!

rlhahn
03-16-2011, 07:03 AM
jet,

Here's a pretty good picture that let's you see how it can be done. Essentially you will have stringer, 2x4, 2x4, ply that are all about 4" tall. That creates the square and flat area the motor mounts sit on. Then you will have ply that is back at floor height to wrap it. You can see the build up pretty well on the left side of this picture.

I wouldn't worry as much about how it 'was' done and worry about how it 'should' be done. ;-)

That looks really good Okie. One question. It looks like you covered the low spot in the bow with ply. I want to do the same thing because that is the "water trap". Did you fill it with something first, or just cover it and seal? I had origanly planned to put another small bilge pump there.

Okie Boarder
03-16-2011, 09:45 AM
Just bedded the ply in thickened epoxy and glassed over it. It's just open space underneath. Doing it that way keeps the entire bilge area open all the way to the front of the boat instead if closing it off like it was done originally. It becomes a perfect place to hide a ballast bag.

rlhahn
03-17-2011, 09:20 PM
Just bedded the ply in thickened epoxy and glassed over it. It's just open space underneath. Doing it that way keeps the entire bilge area open all the way to the front of the boat instead if closing it off like it was done originally. It becomes a perfect place to hide a ballast bag.


Great! Thank you for the info.

jet
03-18-2011, 09:55 AM
Okie..thanks for helping us out even though we are football enemies,lol. Hey what is that extra plank of wood you have on the floor between the rudder and shaft log?? Whats that for? And I see now what your saying about the eng blocks.:mrgreen:

Okie Boarder
03-18-2011, 09:58 AM
Okie..thanks for helping us out even though we are football enemies,lol. Hey what is that extra plank of wood you have on the floor between the rudder and shaft log?? Whats that for? And I see now what your saying about the eng blocks.:mrgreen:

Enemies? Come on now...no such thing. Rivals is a better word. ;)

That piece of wood you see is where the strut mounts from underneath. It also holds the bracket for the steering tube mount inside the bilge.

jet
03-18-2011, 11:33 AM
Yes my friend. : ) So you ripped out the old one and replaced it?? What condition was the old one in?? Any water in there? Mine is 100% laid in fiberglass and looks strong should I chissel mine up and re do it?

Okie Boarder
03-18-2011, 11:42 AM
Yeah, ripped it out and replaced it. I had accidentally gotten into the corner of it when grinding and noticed some moisture oozing out so tore it out completely. It was laid in glass too.

rlhahn
05-07-2011, 08:35 PM
Making some progress.

rlhahn
05-07-2011, 08:40 PM
some of the floor.

Okie Boarder
05-09-2011, 11:05 AM
Looks like you are making progess and getting close.

rlhahn
05-10-2011, 09:56 PM
Looks like you are making progess and getting close.

Sooo close. I ordered the paint, and it should be here this week. I've never sprayed anything like this before, so I'm a little nervous. Especially since the paint and clear coat cost so much.

jet
06-15-2011, 10:59 AM
Hey rlhahn. I found a old email on 5/25/11 in my inbox, I dont know how I missed it. But I thought I would see how yours is going? Any new pics? Im at a standstill..summer is way to busy, kids, business, and wakeboarding! lol. 1/2 of my floor is out (left side) and I have the wood ready to go back in. Im kind of stuck on how to do the engine mounts?? But I have been stock pilling new parts, steering wheel, stereo $$, roswell bar$$, hlcd's, sub, leds, speaker rings, bimini, auto ballast, 2-batteries. Im not going to want to sell this thing when Im done. lol. I will take pictures as I go along but just no time in the last 2-months..Im upset.

bens250ex
07-15-2011, 11:40 PM
if you could would you provide a list of materials you used? i am about to start on a sim project and am trying to make several decisions. Details on wood type, resin types, cloth and a ball park figure on how much you used of everything would be awesome.

rlhahn
07-16-2011, 09:40 AM
Ben, I got my 1986 Supra Comp off Craigslist for $1200. It was loosing oil pressure after 10min or so of running. My brother-n-law and I pulled the motor and took it apart to find a bad cam and scratches in the piston sleeve. He rebuilt the whole thing and I built him a new pullbarn $$$labor trade. The demo is cheap. You'll need to buy some sanding and grinding material. I used an orbital sander and grinder. 80grit discs and pads $40. Lumber for new stringers and floor is cheap if you cover it in resin. 4 yellow pine 2x10's and 4 4x8x3/4 plywood $160. I used subfloor glue and sawdust for a filler $10. I used around five gal. of 3m resin for the whole project and around 80sq ft of fiberglass $280 ( Lowes or H.D.) Carpet 218sqft marine $150, exterior carpet glue $10 (Lowes). That's about it for your basic stringer and floor repair. I am redoing everything in the boat though, so the list is longer for me. if you need any kind of online help or advice just drop me a line. Good Luck!!!

rlhahn
07-16-2011, 01:48 PM
Some new pictures of progress.

rlhahn
07-16-2011, 01:50 PM
more pics of progress

rlhahn
07-16-2011, 01:52 PM
motor back in...finally!

rlhahn
07-16-2011, 10:26 PM
New backing plates and concrete board fiberglassed in the stern. Now it's good-to-go.

WakeSurfCanada
07-18-2011, 11:18 AM
NICE!! Keep up the good work!

Just got my motor back in this weekend, it sure feels good to start putting things back together vs pulling them further apart! lol

rlhahn
07-18-2011, 09:01 PM
NICE!! Keep up the good work!

Just got my motor back in this weekend, it sure feels good to start putting things back together vs pulling them further apart! lol

I hear ya. Painting it was the hardest part for me so far. All the prep work and stress of messing up. I had a couple of oh sh#* moments when I sanded a wet spot and made a mess of it. It looks good now though and I learned how to use a sprayer. The next big task will be to wire the new gauges. I went with a paddle wheel speedo, so I'm curious to see how that works. Thanks for the compliments and support. Good luck to you also.

bens250ex
07-28-2011, 09:54 PM
Where did you get your wood from? i went to lowes today and looked at some pine but it had alot of knots?

rlhahn
07-29-2011, 06:45 AM
Where did you get your wood from? i went to lowes today and looked at some pine but it had alot of knots?

I got it from local lumber yard. It was actually left over from an addition I built.

bens250ex
08-13-2011, 02:44 AM
how hard was it to paint? i am tempted to paint mine. i have done some auto paint work so i have a lil knowledge

rlhahn
08-13-2011, 08:03 AM
Ben, painting it wasn't so bad. I used a marine two-part topcoat and about five or six coatings. I screwed up on the first coat by spraying it on too thick, but I've never painted with any kind of sprayer other than the old rattle-can. If you've done some auto painting , then this should be easy for you. I had a little trouble with the underside, but my sprayer is a gravity feed and I didn't have a flipping jig.

Good luck man, and send some pictures of your work!

rlhahn
08-13-2011, 08:10 AM
getting there. windshield on yesterday and working on wiring new gauges today.

bens250ex
08-14-2011, 07:38 PM
wow she is looking good, how much did you end up spending on the paint? Where did you get it from? what did you sand the hull with before you painted? i might just be painting after i get the stringers in!

rlhahn
08-14-2011, 11:23 PM
wow she is looking good, how much did you end up spending on the paint? Where did you get it from? what did you sand the hull with before you painted? i might just be painting after i get the stringers in!

I spent around $300 on paint. It's "Blue Marine" brand, and I got it online. I started with 80 grit and worked my way down to 220 grit with my orbital sander, then I wiped it down with vinegar water, then I sprayed her.

rlhahn
09-09-2011, 07:43 AM
finished product

rlhahn
09-09-2011, 07:48 AM
more pics of finished comp

Okie Boarder
09-09-2011, 10:05 AM
Looks good! Nice job.

jet
09-09-2011, 10:19 AM
Man those pictures are shaded and hard to see but she looks pretty good!! How about some better pic's!! With a full walk around and detail. : )

rlhahn
09-09-2011, 05:15 PM
Man those pictures are shaded and hard to see but she looks pretty good!! How about some better pic's!! With a full walk around and detail. : )

I know. Took 'em with my phone. I'll get some better ones on here for ya. It's raining now...almost forgot what that was ; )

mapleleaf
09-09-2011, 11:02 PM
Man I'd be happy, great looking work... Now run the damn thing......

bens250ex
09-18-2011, 09:45 AM
good job man looks good!

rlhahn
11-07-2011, 08:47 AM
Well I took her out for the first time last week. Everything went great! The motor rebuild was great, and the hull is sound. NO LEAKS. she was bone dry when I got her out of the water. I ran her again this weekend and tuned the holly carb a little. Still no issues. All the hard work has paied off. my only regret is the season is over. I'll get all the extra finishing touches done this winter though. more pictures on the way.

TitanTn
11-07-2011, 09:04 AM
Sounds great! We're still going to have to see those pics though...

sybrmike
11-07-2011, 11:21 AM
Congrats on the successful lake tests! I feel your pain, got her wet once before the last of the water dried up down here. Oh well, lots to get done over the winter but keep at it (built & carpeted the new doghouse base this weekend) - spring will be here in no time. Let's see those motivational pics...

lively
12-21-2011, 08:00 PM
I spent around $300 on paint. It's "Blue Marine" brand, and I got it online. I started with 80 grit and worked my way down to 220 grit with my orbital sander, then I wiped it down with vinegar water, then I sprayed her.hey Rlhahn did you get your paint from Ipaint.com ? and the "blue marine" was it two part ? did you add reducer ?