Pulling out w-o-t.. Carb loading up?

[dshaff24]

Sometimes... When Im pulling a wakeboarder/skier etc etc.. after i idle around for little bit waiting for the boarder to get set up..

Then I floor it w-o-t to get him out of the water! Once in a while my boat feels like it loads up Just after it starts to pull out!

im thinking I probally just need some kind of adjustment but whats funny is it doesn't do it to often..

Im going to search my video camera since I remember seeing a vid of it happening on there!

Just looking to see if anyone has dealt with this minor issue?

[cadunkle]

I'll assume this is a Holley carb... Most likely you're either lean or rich on your accelerator pump shot. Does it happen immediately when you slam the throttle, as in a stumble then it revs up? Or does it start to pull, then bog, then go?

If it stumbles then goes, your discharge nozzles are too small.

If it goes then bogs then picks back up, you're likely loading it up with too much fuel. Does it leave a puff of smoke behind the boat when it bogs? Go with a smaller discharge nozzle.

If your carb is a double pumper this effect can be compounded, but you may just be flooding your engine with too much air depending on the size of the carb. With a DP you often can't just slam it wide open for best performance, need to use a little more finesse bringing on the secondaries especially if loaded up with weight and have a stockish pitch prop.

[Salty87]

before you tear into the carb, when was your last tune up?....points, condensor, etc.

[jet]

Yeah..we need to know what you mean by loading up?? Do you mean bogging? Or slowing down? The other thing to check on is the "demand" you are putting on the fuel sys or filter. Once its clogged it will work 90% of the time except when you go wot then the demand is to much and it will bog down or slow as your trying to pull a rider up. So go ahead and change or clean the fuels filters. Jet

[Okie Boarder]

Just curious...why are you going WOT to pull up a rider in the first place?

[jet]

I was going to say something about that Okie, but then I thought he might have a 3-blade and sacing it out?? No full throttle!! I only use 5%-10% of my throttle now.

[cadunkle]

Just curious...why are you going WOT to pull up a rider in the first place?

I've had a few people give me straight arm starts behind the Saltare before. These are people who have never drove an inboard or anything with a big block, people used to 4-bangers and such that need to break the habit. It's not a pleasant start for the rider! :lol:

Also to the OP... Definitely go over the basics as jet mentioned. If the boat performed fine with straight arm starts previously, your carb tune may not be the problem. Also check your float level in the carb, ignition timing, that timing is advancing, plugs are not fouled, etc. For example is your float level is off possible due to a gunked up needle and seat or a weak fuel pump, if you change your accelerator pump circuit to fix it now, you may have a similar problem when you fix the root cause. So yeah, check the basics first. Should have mentioned that in my first post.

[dshaff24]

you know what im not going wot.. im thinking of previous boats..

Im thinking that its loading up on fuel because after idleing around and putting it in gear If I don't bump it it will load up then go smooth!

The boat got a ton of new parts and runs great.. Filters.. fuel lines.. New plugs.. new wires.. new distributor with new electronic goodies.. new coil.. When I tore this boat down I wanted to get all the maintence and upgrades out of the way! motor has around 375 hours

Its been since last summer since Ive runned it.. But I think I remember If It was about to bog. Id just pull the throttle back and then give it fuel again and it would skip over the bog!

I got a video of what it does.. ill go dig it up

[cadunkle]

Check float level and idle mixture. Watch the boosters while it's idling. Do you see fuel dripping out of the boosters? Turn it off, watch the boosters for a minute or two, do you seem fuel dripping fomr the boosters? If so you may have a heat soak problem, fuel pressure problem or inconsistent float level. Could be time to rebuild the carb if it hasn't been done in a while.

[dshaff24]

Okay Its been a while and I think I been making things up in my head lol.. I watched the video and it only happens If the boat was off for a minute or so.. then when you start it.. let it idle for a little bit then go.. pulling a boarder it.. So Just as you put it in gear and bump the throttle it dies.. IM Thinking now that it might be the choke resetting itself while off.. and then when I start it and let it run for say a minute its not fully open and when I put it in gear it wants to chug.. Kinda choking on fuel!

I was going to post the video but it was lame! So am I susposed to TUNE the choke to release faster?

Is it even possible from what im describing? Ill know more when I get it back in the water since im going off of faint memory and video..

Reason im thinking its the Choke is When its cold.. and I fire it up I have to bump the throttle a little to let it IDLE higher and warm up some then bump it in gear and sometimes it does the same thing! but when the motor has been running the whole time I don't have this issue!

Choke it new and is fully closed when motor is off for a little

Sorry about the first post being way off. I needed to watch 30 videos to get my mind back on track to see what I was talking about

[cadunkle]

Make sure your choke is getting full voltage of 14v or whatever your alternator puts out (not pulled through a resistor wire off your coil or anything like that). Then make sure it isn't adjusted too tight/closed too much.

I dislike electric chokes for this reason. They absolutely would cause your problem if the choke was not open completely when giving lots of throttle.

[jet]

To adjust the choke (electric) just warm the motor up nice and warm..turn the choke to the right till the choke door shuts..then back it off till its fully open.

[dshaff24]

To adjust the choke (electric) just warm the motor up nice and warm..turn the choke to the right till the choke door shuts..then back it off till its fully open.

I think this is the ticket.. Thanks Jet

When I installed the new choke I Just cranked it till it closed.. then a little more while it was cold till it got tight.. So Im guessing This was To much..

[jet]

Yep, thats why you adjust while its hot so you know Its all the way open when the engine warms up. If you do it while Its cold it may not open all the way once the engine gets hot. :D

[rludtke]

I like the choke theory, but it also sounds like your float levels could be too low. If low, the engine becomes starved of fuel when the fuel supply can not keep up with demand. The availible fuel to meet demands is in the float chamber. If it float level drops too low when demand is high, the engine faulters.

These carberators are senstive, and boats offer them pretty rough rides. These carbs do not remain it tune, and need periodic service to keep them in optimum condition.The float level adjustment is simple enough.

How longs since the carb has been rebuilt? If it has been several years or more, I recomend that you give it an overhaul, and reset all of the adjustments per the manual.

Holley offers a ton of information on-line:
http://holley.com/
This is the most common carb for older Supra's: http://holley.com/0-80319-1.asp
This is the overhaul kit; http://holley.com/703-47.asp
Technical library: http://holley.com/703-47.asp for all of the adjustment procedures

[cadunkle]

I respectfull disagree wth Jet on the choke adjustment method. His method will get you in the ballpark, and probably work fine since boats are generally used in warm weather so the choke/enrishment will be less finicky.

To get the best cold engine performance the choke should be adjusted with the engine cold. This can take several days to get it dialed in just right, since at best you might get two truly cold starts per day. You want to choke plate to just barely be closed, then set your high idle speed to where you want it. I prefer high idle to be as low as possible for the engine to run smoothly and not stumble or hesitate while the choke is on and engine cold. 900-1300 RPM is a good range.

Then pay attention to how quickly the choke comes off as you are idling and driving at idle or off idle as you would while engine is cold. Your final adjustment of the black choke cap/knob is to set the duration of choke, how long before it opens. If it comes off too fast, give it more choke, too long then give it less. Once this is set the engine needs to be completely cold again to set the choke plate. It should be just barely closed, very light pressure keeping the plate closed. If too much or too little you need to bend the rod that opens/closes that plate to achieve the proper position. Then cold start and check high idle and performance while cold. Fine adjustments on each cold start until you get it just right. When properly adjusted you should be able to drive the boat from a cold start without and hesitation, stumbling, etc. You'll notice less power until it warms up but shouldn't be finicky to drive.

Setting float level before adjusting choke is a must, as is ensuring proper idle mixture and hot idle throttle plate opening and RPM. Also ensure you have full voltage to the choke so it opens at the proper rate.

I've always daily driven carbureted vehicles (and always will) and I've never had cold start/cold weather driveability issues when adjusting chokes like this. The other side of this is my boat doesn't have a choke. The guy I got it from removed the choke from the double pumper. It can be fickle to start when cold as it's a fine line between flooding it and too lean to start. I may pull a choke off one of my parts carbs this spring and install it, but it generally doesn't bother me too much as it's rare that I flood it. So on that note, choke performance generally isn't a big concern for some boaters as long as it doesn't stay closed when warmed up... In which case Jet's quick and easy adjustment would be fine.