Pulled my cap!

[SupraMisfit]

Well its already in the 80s here in the desert and Im way behind on my boat but I pulled the cap today. Now its time to get busy!

[SupraMisfit]

I guess im having problems with my picture links. I will try and figure that out?

[ScottnAz]

http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/9365/0313111403.jpg (http://img148.imageshack.us/i/0313111403.jpg/)

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http://img860.imageshack.us/img860/4959/0313111432.jpg (http://img860.imageshack.us/i/0313111432.jpg/)

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http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/8020/0313111429.jpg (http://img811.imageshack.us/i/0313111429.jpg/)

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[SupraMisfit]

Thanks Scott!

[mapleleaf]

damn that pickup's a looker.....cap pull'in ford, who'd a thought?

[csuggs]

Now the fun begins!

[87SunSportMikeyD]

Good start!! Best of luck and you'll be surfin soon!

[dshaff24]

I pulled my cap with a forklift.. That method looks about the same but that truck is creative!

Keep the pics coming

[Okie Boarder]

Definitely a cool way to lift it. Time to get busy! Keep the pics coming.

[SupraMisfit]

That truck has come in handy so many times! Its my buddies and he uses it to move heavy ironwork around. It had no problem snatching that cap off the boat.

I think I have everything I need to get it going. I even bought myself a tyvek suit to minimize itching.

I purchased my epoxy from aeromarine products out of San Diego. Their prices are comparable to Us Composites but if you live on the west coast shipping cost are way to high from Us Composites. Also aeromarine products have a pretty good reputation on other boat builder forums.

Im also still debating some type of underfloor ballast?? What are the possible drawbacks of just using the space under the floor for ballast without tanks?? Seems to me if you seal everything with glass and epoxy and paint with some type of bilge cote it would hold water?? Please chime in if you have any thoughts or opinions about underfloor ballast.

Stay tuned and I will keep you guys updated with pics and info!

[cadunkle]

I don't think there's much space, but you could probably have custom bags made to your dimensions to run the whole length under the floor. Just make some access panels in your floor to install/remove bags and access fittings. Probably easier than hard tanks unless you can make the tanks yourself.

[SupraMisfit]

I don't think there's much space, but you could probably have custom bags made to your dimensions to run the whole length under the floor. Just make some access panels in your floor to install/remove bags and access fittings. Probably easier than hard tanks unless you can make the tanks yourself.

What about just using the cavity under the floor as the tank with no bags? If you were to fill that area it should hold quite a bit of water. I was thinking of sealing off the opening when I put the floor down and running pumps to fill and drain that area with a couple manual drain plugs to air it out when not in use. Seems to me that if I glass and epoxy the underside of the flooring and seal it all really good I basically have a hard tank using the structure of the boat itself.

[Okie Boarder]

Some people have considered that route in rebuilds, both on this forum and another I'm a member of. Many decide against it once they see what it entails and the end result. Another reason they decide against it is purposely putting water in those compartments which puts you at risk for portions getting wet you don't want wet. It would be a personal decision whether that is what you want or not. It can be done. Once you see the amount of space you're working with, do the math on the volume and you'll be able to see how much weight you can end up with, then decide what you would want to do. Ultimately there are a lot of potential options for ballast on these boats and you just need to decide which you think works best for you.

[cadunkle]

What about just using the cavity under the floor as the tank with no bags?

Bad idea. it will be difficult to seal. You will have water seeping out of those compartments into the bilge and most likely you'd be replacing your stringers and floor again in the near future. Water finds a way, don't give it any more chance than you have to.

[csuggs]

What cadunkle said. After the heartache of realizing a stringer job is needed the first time, I would sure hate to expose myself to that again. At least a bag would give you that extra piece of mind. I wonder if there is a manufactures warranty of some kind that would cover a leak that would damage your boat?

You know, come to think of it, I guess when you need a stringer job and you have all that wood and foam soaked in water, well you pretty much have the ballast you're looking for!

[jzelt]

I agree, sealing the bottom and sides may not be the issue, but what about the seam at the top and sides? Either when the cap is back on or the access hatch?
Just doesn't seem realistic without a tank or bag.

[Salty87]

maybe with composite materials but you better be rich.

either way, once you compare the weight against the money and time it's prob not going to be worth it. there really isn't that much space under the floors. maybe if you redesigned the secondary stringers but again, what's the project worth?

i think everyone has wanted to include sub-floor ballast in their rebuilds but, after it's all said and done, just getting back together is a relief.

[SupraMisfit]

Im still not giving up on the idea yet. The main reason stringers on these boats rot out is because of the foam being constantly saturated and poor fiberglass work with wood exposed in several places. This system will only be exposed to constant moisture when full. In reality it will only get used a few hours at a time on my boat. Once drained it will hold no more moisture than any other supra without foam. If done correctly I dont think is poses much more risk for rot than just normal use. The bilge and stringer cavities get wet like it or not. As volume is concerned I think if you flood both cavities there is quite a bit of space. I will have to do some volume calculations:grin: I would incorporate some scupper holes or passages on the outer stringer so both openings on each side would fill. Of all the ways I can think of to add under floor ballast this seems the most simple and can utilize all the space under the floor. Not really any more work than a standard stringer repair other than making sure your glass work is tight and painting with bilge or epoxy paint to be sure you completely encapsulated all your wood. Then plumbing it for fill and drain.

Thanks for the feedback. Keep the ideas and opinions coming.

[SupraMisfit]

i think everyone has wanted to include sub-floor ballast in their rebuilds but, after it's all said and done, just getting back together is a relief.

Salty I feel you on this point. But Im only going to have one opportunity to take advantage of the floor being exposed(I hope) and I dont want to kick myself later for not doing it.

[mapleleaf]

Geez lets get back to the pics already.....

[sybrmike]

It's definitely doable - but like others have already said, you gotta determine if it's worth it to you. Check out the amazing Sunsport rebuild (in classified's I believe) that incorporated subfloor ballast. Also look into how the composite homebuilt aircraft folks seal their gas tanks. Like you - I wanted to do it sooo bad during the stringer/floor rebuild, but couldn't justify the time & expense for less than 1000 lbs.

Great job getting the cap off. The first of many inventive techniques you're sure to develop along the way...