Engine R&R

[Seabeejamie]

OK...got a question for you guys. Just got back from Afghanistan, boat was laid up for 2 years. got it out of storage, had the upholstery replaced, tuned it up, waxed it, had the itch BAD to get out on the water. Well......Although I winterized the boat, apparantly i left a small pocket of water in it. cracked block, oil looks like a milkshake.
So my question is this. Is it easier to remove just the engine, or do I need to remove the engine and transmission as a unit? 2002 Supra Launch, Direct Drive. My 7th boat, and by far my favorite. already found a remanufactured exact fit replacement long block here in dallas for 920.00, just wanna get on the water as quickly as possible.

[Ptownkid]

I don't have an answer to your question...but I did want to say welcome back safe and sound.

Cheers

[OUI]

It's my experience to pull the engine and trans at the same time. It's easier to pull the trans when it's out of the boat. Welcome home.

[Seabeejamie]

Thanks Guys...sounds like engine and tranny together. Not too big a deal, I really didnt wanna break that coupling apart, reading here though that doesnt sound too bad either. I am glad to be home, Thanks for the well wishes. Just sold my jetski to pay for the engine, 15 minutes on Craigslist sold a 1996 Seadoo GTX, guy didnt even haggle with me on the price...1700. On my way to getting back on the lake!

[sybrmike]

Welcome back & THANKS FOR YOUR SERVICE!

Definitely easier to pull the engine/trans as an assembly - a lot easier to separate and reattach out of the boat.

[SuperSaltAir]

Having done it both ways my preference is to leave the transmission in the boat its only 6 bolts. At first it seems like it would be easier to pull both but then you have to deal with the trany if you pull it out it also gives you a chance to drop it and damage it. If you are using a cherry picker its a bit much weight on it to just makes everything sketchy. For a restoration job I would say they both have to go for quick in and out so you can get back on the water t
ry to take out as little stuff as possible your the one that has to put it back together.

[Seabeejamie]

Thanks for all the replies...

Just had the boat reupholstered, so restorations definitely not in order...actually looks like a brand new boat. I think I'm going to go ahead and pull all, service the tranny while it is out, Just to be sure when it's all back together take it to the Supra dealer for an alignment. Just bought the short block, 850 out the door. Same block, going to use my cam (which still looks like new) so the shop dropped the price a little. I actually pick it up tommorrow, shop is changing out the pistons and freeze plugs to match what Indmar puts in. Love the boat, my wife actually gave me a kitchen pass to trade it in when this happened, but I just don't want to part with it. I barefoot, Slalom and wakeboard and I just don't see anything out there that is as versatile. The ONLY complaint I would have about the boat is the switches next to the drivers seat, keep breaking on me. I need to find a replacement complete set to do away with the ones that are in there now. That and the ballast switches, keep knocking them with my calf while driving.

[Kma4444]

Is that a roller lifter cam in that engine? If not you will want to be careful when you install the cam as far as lube and oil. I have recommendations if it is a flat tappet.

Good luck with your project, sounds like you are well on your way.

[Seabeejamie]

yes, roller lifter cam...

[Kma4444]

Ah well then, easy enough. Have fun!

[Seabeejamie]

OK..next question. Engine is about all together, will probably drop it in FRiday night. How do I set the timing? i put a red mark on both the distributor and manifold so that I can see I am close (with engine at TDC, not that it would matter), but don't I need to ground a wire or something? 2002 Supra SS, 320 Indmar Assault. I do have a timing light.....

[SuperSaltAir]

Im borrowing this from the malibu forum I did it and it worked for me it should be similar for you

The most difficult part for me was getting the timing done correctly. I found all sorts of varying information online and in the Clymer manual. However, here's what ended up working on this boat:
--Bring the engine to top dead center on the compression stroke on cylinder #1 (front left)
--Install the distributor so that the rotor is pointing at the spark plug wire that goes to cylinder #1. Tighten it so that it won't swivel on its own, but you can still turn it to set timing.
--Use a bent paperclip to jump 2 wires on the diagnostic link connector (DLC). On my engine, look under the cover that is over the electronic mess. The DLC is the large-ish connector that appears to plug into nothing, but has a protective cap over it. Jump the black wire and the black w/white stripe wire. This places the engine in service mode to allow you to set the timing without the computer taking over.
--Use a timing light connected to cylinder #1.
--Connect the water inlet hose to a water source before starting - NEVER run the engine dry.
--Start the engine (fingers crossed)
--With the engine running and the jumper in place, get the engine to fast idle (1200 RPM) and set the timing to 10 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) by rotating the distributor and checking the timiing with the light. I found other sources that say 8 degrees BTDC, so you may choose to go that route. Once you have the engine running consistently and well at this setting, return the idle to normal and remove the jumper. You will know that you are doing it correctly if the engine then takes over and adjusts the idle and timing for you after that.
--Tighten down the distributor the rest of the way.
--GET YOUR BOAT TO THE LAKE!!!

[Seabeejamie]

Thanks SSA...just what I needed. I don't have a fake a lake, but I live 2 miles from a launch ramp...thats usually where I do my running adjustments...hopefully, by putting the red mark on the distributor and manifold it will be dead on when I do it. I know the timing was there when I parked it for the year...

[chrisk]

Let's see some pics of this new upholstery!

[Seabeejamie]

Ive got it all taped off right now....as soon as I drop the engine in I will post pics.

[SuperSaltAir]

I would be careful with the red marks it always trows me off read this It should help get the distributor just right http://www.classiccarauto.com/impala/how_to/install_distributor.shtml

[Seabeejamie]

woo hoo! dropped it in the water tonight....started first crank, runs purrrrrfect. timing was perfect, valve lash was perfect. i had MAYBE 2 cylinders 1/4 turn too loose. a friend let me borrow clips and valve covers (cut open on top), didnt spill a drop of oil.
First thing that scared me was a mechanical vibrating sound...took me a second or 2 to realize it was the TBI injectors. Working as designed, just louder with the flame arrestor and doghouse off. few drips of water from the elbows on the front of both exhaust manifolds, no biggie...fixin to go back out and put a little dope on them. Thanks again to all that gave me the suggestions and help. As soon as I get the greasy handprints off the new upholstery, i'll post some picks. Speaking of which, if you are in the DFW area, L&N upholstery in Fort Worth did my interior. get ready for the price. They did the doghouse, rear storage cover, back seat, seat on the ice chest and the cushions on the walk through to the front......perfect job, can't tell the difference from the new factory upholstery....$500.00 out the door (yes 5 hundred). this was after 2 $2000+ quotes. Highly recommend them.

[Graeme]

Hey welcome back from the 'stan. Happened to buy my Sunsport when I was over there myself over the internet!

Best of luck with the refit.

[Seabeejamie]

Welcome back to you as well Graeme. Where were you? Wilson and Senjeray here, panjwai-Zhari district South of Kandahar.

[Seabeejamie]

thats me center front (with the Anchor on the cover)

[Graeme]

Nice pic...I was with the Canadians in KAF, 2008. Happy boating.