Protecting yourself from sinking

[haugy]

Guys as I just watched a video of a beautiful 30' fishing boat capsize from taking on water, it's gotten me thinking. What protection do I have in place for taking on water?

I mean think of all the places you can take water in. The intake for the cooling system being one. Think of all the points where it could blow a hose, or a hose could come off. Then think about your through hull fittings. And you guys with on board ballast, you guys have multiple places.

So what is everyone doing to keep themselves protected?

-I installed a new bilge pump on my boat last night, but am still trying to locate the #2 bilge pump. It's either missing or was cut out. But prefer to have two.
-I'm going to install a ball valve on the intake fitting so that if for some reason a hose pops off, or fails I can shut off the water flow into the boat for repairs or while limping home.
-I also keep a length of hose that I can attach to the impeller pump or water pump and throw over the side incase that happens so I can pull in water. But another neat trick would be to use that hose and run it into the bilge if I had to. This way the motor acts like a big ass bilge pump pulling water from the hull and dumping it out. With the ball valve I can shut off any water coming in there, so any other water would get sucked out by the motor. I figure this way it could at least buy me some time to beach it, or get to safety.

Any ideas or thoughts you guys do?

Here's the video of the boat sinking. A through hull failed, and since they left the access hole open to the hull, that let the air out and the boat could sink rather than the bilge pump keeping them up. See the hole in the floor. Sinking starts at 4:50 minutes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c48IWQ7vWEE

[wotan2525]

Insurance. If I had it when my boat was sinking/sunk (it sunk up to the floor, basically) I would have just headed for deep water instead of shallow.

[wakejmpr]

I'll second that. Insurance and flairs. Set it on fire before it sinks. Total loss. Always make sure you have enough life jackets for everyone all the rest can be replaced.

[haugy]

Insurance. If I had it when my boat was sinking/sunk (it sunk up to the floor, basically) I would have just headed for deep water instead of shallow.


I'll second that. Insurance and flairs. Set it on fire before it sinks. Total loss. Always make sure you have enough life jackets for everyone all the rest can be replaced.

Wow. :D Are you sure you want to do that? Cause from my experience the owner is the one who gets screwed when it's an older boat. The only time you come out ahead is when it's a brand new boat, and you can prove it wasn't your fault, and you have the best insurance.

Me, I prefer to make sure I don't get to that point. That's what this thread is about. Not what to do if it sinks. But how to prevent it and other thoughts around that. My son and my wife will be in this boat. I prefer not to just say "f-that" and let it sink and make us float while waiting for help.

[wakejmpr]

I have an 07 launch and amazing coverage but all joking aside. I just replaced my bilge with a higher volume pump at 750gph I also keep a manual bilge pump. It's a lot like those huge tube water guns. Plenty of life jackets. I keep extra hoses and clamps of various sizes in the event of a rupture I can do a repair in the water. Also 3m marine grade sealent and waterproof sealent tape as well for quick patch jobs. Other then that if it starts taking on more water then the bilge and hand pump can handle you have serious problems on your hands and it's time to strap on life jackets lite a flair and abandon ship!

[Jetlink]

I run a 1200GPH main bilge pump with a 750GPH as a back up. Had to throw some extra hose clamps on the bilge line when I plumbed the 1200 pump on there as it almost blew the line off of the through hull fitting in front of my feet. That 1200 though can almost hit a boat 5 feet to my starboard when it kicks on though so that has some fun factor there.

[jet]

I had the same thoughts haugy aftr a "oops I forgot to put the plug in" moment. After watching my beilge pump work overtime for 2-3 hrs I knew that pump was not strong enough. So after that I switched to a 1100 gph beilge pump. Most boats have a 500-700 gph and those arent strong enough. You guys should change them out. Jet

[Okie Boarder]

Aside from the normal "stuff" onboard and the bilge pump, I have my ballast set up with a single Simer pump with a thru-hull and ball valve. The other end of the pump is just a hose I attach to my bags. It is set up to fill and drain so if I started taking on water I could use it to pump the water out.

[haugy]

Well color me embarassed. I figured my 650gph would do the trick. Of course I've never gotten to that point of needing that much flow power, yet.

If I can find the second bilge pump (somewhere in the stern) I'll probably put a 1000gph on it. Those two combined should do it.

[Jetlink]

Well color me embarassed. I figured my 650gph would do the trick. Of course I've never gotten to that point of needing that much flow power, yet.

When I got the boat, it had a single 500GPH pump in it that was pretty much shot. I walked into the store, saw the 750GPH one and I saw the 1200GPH sitting just above it. I knew 750 would probably suffice but I thought, if it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing. I realised though, I should probably pick up a manual one just in case now for the event where I have no battery juice.

[sybrmike]

I just installed a shut off valve on the raw water thru hull last night (didn't originally have one). Also, originally had only one 500 gpm bilge pump. I'm putting in two 500's - one up front with an auto float switch & the other in back on manual.

I'll have another shut off valve on the ballast intake, a valved extra fill line for the one 750 sac still on the floor, & quick disconnects for the hidden sacs - so it'd be easy to close the valve, yank the hoses off the manifold in the bilge, throw two 1" lines overboard, & use the two Johnson 750 impeller pumps if ever needed.

If 2500 gpm won't keep up, "man the lifeboats, she's goin' down"...

[KY Steve]

Just an FYI for those who would let their boat sink, make sure your insurance covers the salvage. Most insurance does not and salvaging the boat is required by law in many areas because of environmental reasons.

A buddy's boat sank in 12' of water and it cost him over two grand to bring it back up and and get it on shore, his insurance did not cover that expense. Image what the cost would be in deeper water? The lake I'm on is over 100' in most areas.

Just something to keep in the back of your mind.

[haugy]

I just installed a shut off valve on the raw water thru hull last night (didn't originally have one).

Just remembered my thru hull has a 90 degree elbow, but with a hose fitting not a threaded fitting on it. How did you do the shut off valve? What did you use? I can't remember if I can unscrew the 90 or not.

[sybrmike]

Originally, mine had a 90 threaded directly on top of the thru-hull with a 5" section of pipe threaded on one end into the 90 and hose clamped to the raw water line on the other. I removed the pipe section and installed a MPT/MPT adapter into the 90, then ball valve, then pipe section. I had to take the handle off of the valve to thread it on due to tight clearance with the stringer and bottom. I also cut a few inches off the tail pipe to help make up for the extra space required by the valve.

Even still, the hose bend up to the strainer is too tight & the hose could rub on the trans mount. Tonight, I'm cutting the hose from the tail pipe to strainer and installing a barbed 90 so the hose doesn't kink or hit the mount. Space is tight with a valve for sure.

[haugy]

Yeah, I'm trying to put in a strainer and am trying to figure out the lines. Finding wire run 1 1/4" hose is a pain in the butt.

I may have to run to Lowe's and MacGuyver some stuff together.

[ericmichaels]

Just a thought but if you were in that situation couldn't you disconnect the drain hoses from your ballast if you had them and put those down in the bilge area and and just run your balast drain pumps along with your bilge? I have a 3 bag ballast system that I can disconnect the drain lines from the bags pretty quickly. I also have another pump that plugs into my aux power that is used to fill and drain additional ballast bags when needed. So 2 bilge pumps, and 3 ballast pumps that would take a little bit to disconnect and another bilge pump ( I believe it's the 1200gph tsunami pump) that can be hooked up in seconds. Wouldnt all of this be able to handle most problems on the water?

[geaux_fish]

While on the subject of bilges, I have a new (to me) 06 Launch. How much water coming out of the bilge is normal? It seems like I will have 30 -45 seconds of water being pumped after each run. Is that normal? How does that much water enter the boat?

thanks

[docdrs]

While on the subject of bilges, I have a new (to me) 06 Launch. How much water coming out of the bilge is normal? It seems like I will have 30 -45 seconds of water being pumped after each run. Is that normal? How does that much water enter the boat?

thanks

sounds like you need to tighten your shaft packing nut

[geaux_fish]

thanks, I'll check that out asap!

[bdumas35]

Yeah, I'm trying to put in a strainer and am trying to figure out the lines. Finding wire run 1 1/4" hose is a pain in the butt.

I may have to run to Lowe's and MacGuyver some stuff together.

Haugy,

Here's how I did my Salt.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w147/bdumas35/IMGP0077.jpg

[haugy]

bdumas, thanks! That helps a lot. How did you get your transmission cooler to tilt upright? Mine won't.

Also what did you use to thread the strainer into the PVC ends? I see a hose clamp.
And what is the bronze fitting right after the strainer? A fresh water plug?

And I want to make love to your engine. I know that sounds disturbing, but that thing looks awesome.

[Salty87]

wow...threadjack...sweet looking job all around. glass work looks clean as can be, you added limber holes for drainage, awesome paint job on the engine, carpet is flat as you can get it...you kept the original design for the front vent hoses, wow. i was too scared to drill those before dropping the top cap so i improvised. did i miss your rebuild thread??...drool...



Haugy,

Here's how I did my Salt.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w147/bdumas35/IMGP0077.jpg


back to topic...bilge didn't work when i bought mine. i upgraded to 1100. keep a fat sac pump and hose on board but that's about it.

one of the more important things most of us already do....don't let anyone else work on it!

[sybrmike]

Double wowsers - threadjack continued. Man dumas, that looks sweet. If I ever get mine back on the water - I gotta haul up to Austin to see that in person & let my Salt play with yours & Salty87's (think I still owe him a beverage). Is that carpet or coating? Rebuild pics? Status? Can't just leave us hanging with engine & dash shots...

No boat time last night (Mr. Mom duty for a few days), so didn't get the elbow installed below the strainer. I like the fresh water flush tap & may try to incorporate something into mine.

On topic, can you access the shut off valve with the floor panel and doghouse base installed? I'd make sure I had quick access in case of an emergency.

[bdumas35]

I just checked and yes, it looks like i could get to it without removing the panel. But I haven't tried with the motor cover and base mounted.

Actually I never really considered the valve as a safety device. The reason for the valve is for running on the water hose.

It would be easy enough to install an inspection port in the panel. Probably not a bad idea. I think I will.

Salty. The floor covering is Nautolex. And no., you didn't miss my rebuild thread because I've been a slacker and not posted one. I am going to post a rebuild thread this weekend. BTW. Your rebuild was my original inspiration. Stay tuned.:-D

[haugy]

What kind of carb are you running bdumas? I don't see a rear bowl, but I see a fuel line. Did you go TBI?

Ooooh, an access panel, I like that idea. Even easier. I think I can get the ball valve close enough though that I could reach in from the back of the motor though if I had to.

BUT SERIOUSLY!!!

BDUMAS, what's with the schedule 80 PVC attached at the ball valve? Is it a male end on the ball valve? I am wondering how you fastened it with a seal on the ballvalve and have you pressure tested it yet?

[bdumas35]

What kind of carb are you running bdumas? I don't see a rear bowl, but I see a fuel line. Did you go TBI?

Ooooh, an access panel, I like that idea. Even easier. I think I can get the ball valve close enough though that I could reach in from the back of the motor though if I had to.

BUT SERIOUSLY!!!

BDUMAS, what's with the schedule 80 PVC attached at the ball valve? Is it a male end on the ball valve? I am wondering how you fastened it with a seal on the ballvalve and have you pressure tested it yet?

Haugy,

The carburetor is an Edelbrock 750.

On the water plumbing. First is the 1 1/4 90 threaded on to the valve with a close nipple. A 1 1/4 to 1 adapter with a close nipple connecting the strainer to the 90. Then a 1" T again with a close nipple. Finally the original barbed 90 that was on my strainer. The T has a hose adapter for fresh water.

I just mounted the cooler bracket to a bell houng mounting bolt.

Haven't tested anything yet.

[jet]

Whats that floor made out of??

[bdumas35]

Jet,

The floor is 1/2" marine ply glassed with DB 1700 and epoxy, covered with Nautolex vinyl.

I'll put all of the info in a proper rebuild thread.

Is it as hot up there as it is down here? Can hardly work on the boat.

[jet]

Is that garage floor stuff? And yes..its 110 degrees in my garage and if I work on the boat its for like 6-8 or 10 hrs. Its a ass woopin. : ))

[bdumas35]

Nah. Not garage stuff. Made for boats. It's pretty thin. Most of the big box boat stores sell it.

I'm going to try it and see how it goes. My goal is to use whatever materials and methods available to elimanate moisture retention and rot.

here's a link. Although I didn't buy it from them. I got it on e-bay.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=198631&BASE