oxidation help!

[texas scarecrow]

I just bought an 87 saltare which has some bad oxidation. Is there any product that works really good to remove this? As of now I was planning on using that product that is in most boat shops in the blue bottle which I would apply with a buffing wheel.

[wotan2525]

I wouldn't even mess with anything in a bottle. Start with wet sanding and save yourself some headaches. I was scared to try it but wish I would have done it 5 years ago rather than trying "miracle" products.

Start with 500 or 600 grit... wet sand it up to 1500 or 2000 grit. Then use a rubbing compound, a polishing compound and finally a wax. It will look like new when you are done. It took me about 30 hours this year to get mine done. I would have spent that same amount of time with rubbing compound but it wouldn't have lasted for even an entire season.

[cadunkle]

What type of compound did you use? What type of buffer? Looking to compound my hull since it's starting to show some oxidation.

[wotan2525]

What type of compound did you use? What type of buffer? Looking to compound my hull since it's starting to show some oxidation.

I did the wet sanding by hand with 3M papers and blocks. I used a harbor freight variable speed buffer/polisher, NAPA hook and loop foam pads and backing plate, 3M Marine Rubbing Compound, 3M Finesse It II Polishing Compound and 3M Marine Wax.

Can you tell I'm a pretty big fan of 3M?

[Jetlink]

I did the wet sanding by hand with 3M papers and blocks. I used a harbor freight variable speed buffer/polisher, NAPA hook and loop foam pads and backing plate, 3M Marine Rubbing Compound, 3M Finesse It II Polishing Compound and 3M Marine Wax.

Can you tell I'm a pretty big fan of 3M?

Well, you are just across the river from them so, no surprise there really... Oh yeah, the products are good too.

[Safety Bob]

Wetsanded hull with 3M 1000 and then 1500 grit wetsanding paper (great workout for the chest, shoulders, and arms!). Buffed out with Meguiars Super Cut compound and then waxed with Mothers California Gold Carnauba wax. Boy did she shine! I still need to finish the deck. She wipes down beautifully with a towel when you pull her out of the water. I have just waxed her twice this year and will probably just need another light wax before I put her away in the fall. Thank you for all of the tips gentlemen!

[Launchman2000]

Does the sanding/waxing/buffing work on hard water stains ( I assume that is what it is) also?

I spent 3 weeks on LBJ (freakin awesome trip) and didn't really notice it till the last week, white parts of the hull have a yellow tint now, along with a matching streak at the bilge pump outlet. I should have been spraying it and wiping it down after each trip but I wasn't.

[wotan2525]

Regular hull cleaner will take care of that really, really quickly. Spray on, let sit, and then brush off. Don't buy the environmentally friendly stuff.... it doesn't work.

[Plum Nauti]

I did exactly what several here have already mentioned. I wet sanded first with 600 grit 3M wet/dry sand paper. I then did a second round with 1000 grit. After sanding with 600, I would dry off the boat and check for uniform dullness. After reading countless posts on this, I learned that oxidation is actually small pinholes in the gellcoat. With my hull being so dark, I could really tell the difference as I was sanding the gel coat. After my final sanding with 1000, I used 3M Marine Premium Mold and Tooling Compound. This is a very aggressive compound and claimed to remove sand scratching from 600 grit paper. I just chose to use 1000 to maybe cut my buffing time. I actually bought an entire gallon of this stuff. It comes in a gallon can same as most interior or exterior paint does. It also has the consistency of peanut butter, in my opinion. I used a Makita 9227c polisher with a 3M wool pad to compound the finish out to a shine and then finished with 3M Finess-it. Lastly I applied a couple of coats of carnauba wax. I just used Meguires for this. All this work made a world of difference.77507751775277547753

[texas scarecrow]

Thanks for the help fellas. This boat is going to take me hours to restore but I cant wait to get her on the water. I will be taking pictures of the progress.

[chrisk]

Before and after pictures, a week of wetsanding, rubbing compound, polishing compound, and wax.

http://i842.photobucket.com/albums/zz345/chriskuecker/IMG_4690.jpg

http://i842.photobucket.com/albums/zz345/chriskuecker/IMG_4691.jpg

http://i842.photobucket.com/albums/zz345/chriskuecker/IMG_4703.jpg

http://i842.photobucket.com/albums/zz345/chriskuecker/IMG_4704.jpg

[wotan2525]

The results are looking AWESOME, guys! So glad that we've finally got this down to a science. I tried at least 4-5 different "bottle" solutions before finally biting the bullet and wetsanding. So glad that (hopefully) I'll never have to do it again!

[chrisk]

Yeah I'm really happy with the work too. I'd just like to add that because my hull was so heavily oxidized and caked with river slime I started the process with a 320 grit, then 600, then 1500. Worked out very well. Also, on the bottom of my hull which was TERRIBLE, I acid washed it first to really take the grime off before I started wetsanding; that saved A LOT of time and effort. My rubbing and polishing compounds were just simple products I bought at O'Reilly's.

[cadunkle]

Well I bit the bullet and ordered a Makita 9227cx3 package deal from Amazon. They had the package with a bag and a couple pads for less than just the polisher locally, and free shipping too. Looks like I can get the 3m compound, polish and wax cheaper at West Marine than I can get online so I'll pick that up this week.

I don't think I'm going to wet sand as mine isn't very bad. I'll see how the compound does on the oxidation and some light scratches before considering wetsanding.

What should I do with the stripe and whatnot on the side of the boat? They are not perfect and have some imperfections where the material has worn off or been scratched. Should I remove the whole stripe/letters/logo or leave them on? Is there a source to get these new to replace? Should I leave it naked? Or just a smaller Supra logo/wave towards the back? Mayber a plain pinstripe the length of it? Or just leave it alone and work around the striping?

[oward1202]

I pulled all of my decals and striping of because of them being ripped in places and they just simply look out-dated. I was able to order a newer looking Supra decal off ebay that I put on after doing the work on the hull. So, I would update it if I were you. But no matter what it will always look better after the wet sanding.

[sybrmike]

Great results, Chrisk. Bringing back those dark colors is a biatch for sure. I still hope you have the theme song from Miami Vice on the play list - I love retro...

[cadunkle]

Well I got some supplies and started on the Saltare tonight. Didn't have much time before it got dark, but I went over the transom with compound then polish and it is amazingly better. Much of the oxidation is gone and the while at the top is brilliantly white again. I'll have to go over it again to get all the oxidation though but it was a good test to get the feel for it. I then compounded a few feet along one side and it took care of the oxidation and several light scratches. So it's looking good and I'm comfortable with it, just need more time to get the job done! Should go faster now that I've sort of figured out what I'm doing. I'll see about taking some before and after pics. Thanks for the tips guys!

[rkmfl]

Although this project is complete, I'll post some things I learned over @ AutoGeeks.net, which is sort of the definitive site for a lot of detailers:

First, for your random orbital, the best option for the money is the "Griot", which you can usually get for about $120 on Amazon, I believe.

Here are the steps, for the best result (after testing a variety of different products, etc):

1) Three applications of compound with the wool pad
Use heavy cutting wool pads, use about 1600rpm

2) 3M Marine Finess-it II Glaze. With Hydro-Tech Tangerine Foam Polishing Pads
(3M Polishing pads are not quite as good)

3) 3M Marine Liquid Wax
Meguiar's W-8006 foam polishing pad, about 1900rpm

[cadunkle]

How do you quantify 3 applications? I'm trying to not compound any more than I need to. Work each area over once for a couple minutes at most until I need to add more compound on the pad, and I'll only go over any specific smaller areas than have scratches or chips that need to be hit again. I have no idea how thick the gel is and I have a couple tiny little white spots that make new nervous that it could be thin? Trying to err on the side of caution since this is my first time. If anything it seems like I need to spend more time with the polish than the compound, to get that dull shine to a nice bright shine? I'm using the 3m Super cutting compound and Finesse-It II Glaze for polishing. I've also been working around 1000 RPM, should I speed it up a bit? Any difference in finish based on RPM other than taking a little longer?

I got the 3m Ultra Performance paste wax, haven't got to that part yet though. Just got some large areas compounded and a small area polished to make sure it'll come out nice. Using a Makita 9227c, which I have absolutely no complaints about. So far it seems like a really good quality tool. Works well and comfortable to use.

[cadunkle]

Also, any tips for removing the decals and stripes? I started to do that with a razor blade but they don't peel up nice like I was hoping. I gave up for now as it'll take me forever and a day to get them up this way.

[scottchapin]

Try going to a shop that does wraps. They have a special wheel on a handheld grinder that is like a rubber eraser that takes the stripes off quickly without damage.

[cadunkle]

What type of wheel is this and where can I get one? Would make quick work of it with a die grinder or angle grinder.

I got done compounding one side of the boat before it got dark. I'm irritated that the guides on the trailer are majorly in the way. I think if I remove the boards it might be enough to get in there with the polisher. Wish my trailer had guide poles! Or I had a way to fit it in the garage and hoist it up by the lift rings! Anyway, hopefully tomorrow after work I can get this side polished then move the boat and do the other side. Not sure how it's gonna go when I get to the top cap. Pretty much the whole area that needs doing is tight with the rails and whatnot. How difficult is it to remove the rails? Doesn't look like easy access to the underside?

[wotan2525]

3m Stripe Off Wheel
http://www.amazon.com/Stripe-Off-Wheel-07498-Hardware/dp/B00063VT0G

[haugy]

3m Stripe Off Wheel
http://www.amazon.com/Stripe-Off-Wheel-07498-Hardware/dp/B00063VT0G


Yep, use this on your drill Cadunkle. Be careful though, don't stay in one spot too long. Hit it, and move on, and then come back later if it needs to be rehit. The eraser will get REALLY hot and burn mark gelcoat if you stay in one spot or put a lot of pressure on it.

I use a heat gun to loosen the decals. It works great. You heat it up to get it loose, but not too loose as it will melt and fall apart in your hand. You've got to find that time frame to loosen, but not melt. Then as you walk down the boat, pre-heat the area with the heat gun, while pulling off the area you just heated, and walk it down. I can pull stripes off now in one complete piece most of the time. Then go back and hit the residue with the 3m stripe wheel.

REMOVING DECALS WITH THE STRIPE WHEEL CAN MAKE MARKS. Remove the decals first, and then use the 3m wheel for the glue/residue.

[rkmfl]

About the three iterations with the hard-cut compound, that's not intended to be a "hard" number.

Rather it's expressing that because even hard-cut compound is relatively light, and gelcoat is plenty thick -- you will spent a lot more time/iterations on this step, than others -- assuming you have a lot of oxidation (as was shown in this thread).

If you think about the sanding process, the first sand is generally the most time consuming and sets up the success of all subsequent sanding. Whether you do it once or ten times, the point is to be sure you've really leveled out the hills/valleys of abuse to the clearcoat. And by "hills/valleys" we're referring to microns, not things you can necessarily "feel" but rather "see" in the results.

In short, if you have mild oxidation, and you've spent a good deal of time on a thorough single attempt, that is probably fine. If you have heavy oxidation, it's probably going to require a few iterations, each a bit easier/quicker than the last, until you see the results that will make you proud when everything is over/done.

Does that make sense?

[Safety Bob]

Great tips Haugy for the use of the heat gun on the stripes since that gun can do major damage if you hold it on a single spot for too long!!! I also use the paint prep solvent called "pre-cleano" or "PPG Acryli-Clean" - "wax and grease remover" on a rag or paper towel to get the adhesive residue off of the surface. It takes the adhesive right off and it will not damage the gelcoat. Make sure that you wash the rags as leaving them out in the garage is a BIG Fire Hazard! I have been considering taking off my stripes and adding a new "Supra Logo" on the side of my Saltare. I haven't pulled the trigger on it yet though as I kind of like how the original stripe brightens up the side of the boat. It does however make the boat stand out in a crowd - almost too much! I have pictures in my album on my profile. Haugy, you have been providing fantastic tips on here, thank you, I love reading them!