I replaced the seals and oring and Emory clothed the rudder shaft and reinstalled and pumped up with grease but I still have play in rudder . Is there a wear bushing that's required ? Cause something don't add up .
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Printable View
I replaced the seals and oring and Emory clothed the rudder shaft and reinstalled and pumped up with grease but I still have play in rudder . Is there a wear bushing that's required ? Cause something don't add up .
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What kind of play?
I have had two kinds. 1) I could wiggle the rudder from side to side and fore and aft. This issue turned out to be the rudder box that was loose. Bad (non stainless) hardware and saltwater resulted in a small catastrophe. 2) The I could turn/rotate the rudder a few degrees without rotating the steering wheel. This turned out to be the pin (cotter pin?), like the ones you have in the propellers, that was worn.
I would say none or very little (not noticeable) otherwise. Well at least for my Launch SSV from 2001.
I have more side to side movement the router box is in good condition and as well as the rotor shaft and I just replace the seals in the O-ring but I just don't understand if they're supposed to be wear sleeve , my style writer box has the two oil seals and the lower has the oring , I was reading up on some Internet knowledge and they're supposed to be no play little to none . I guess I need to measure the ID and OD
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Don't you just love auto correct! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by lively
Lol my bad that was Siri . "My style rudder box "
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Some rudder boxes have a plastic or teflon wear sleeve that can be replaced, others do not and when they get loose the rudder and port must be replaced as they are both likely worn since they are both made of the same meterial.
Slop in mine was getting pretty bad so I replaced it last year. I recommend going with the Mastercraft rudder and port, wear sleeves and washers are replaceable and the rudder has similar dimensions as the original rudder.
https://forum.supraboats.com/showthr...er-replacement
I mean , I can replace it but what's too much ? Cause the rudder shaft had wear rings from the 2 oil seals and the o ring , I just to some cloth and smoothed it out and re installed . I guess I'll look at getting a replacement skidim is kinda high . Like 450$ but I still need to measure it out
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Too much for me was when it started getting more difficult to held a precise straight line and steering effort increased at speed, and the leak got bad enough to motivate me. Mine was a packing gland style. I'd imagine too much slop in a seal style could prematurely wear or damage the seals.
FWIW the big MC rudder cost me $716 all said and done, plus $131 for a new helm, cable, and misc. bits. Worth it to have a dry bilge and smooth, precise, easy steering.
Just ordered a clamp block, real cheap for NOS. Two more left... http://www.ebay.com/itm/201839466139
What is that ? I have a tilt tube on mine . Prob gonna grab the rudder assy from skidim . I've been looking around . I got 1/4" walk on rudder shaft nowQuote:
Originally Posted by cadunkle
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk