Quickdrain your block - easy winterization!

Some of you have inquired about my petcock drain I installed to make winterization much easier. With this setup you can drain the block in about 3 minutes, which includes opening and closing the petcock valve.

I picked up the parts at a local Marine store, unfortunately I cant remember what size thread it is. Easy way to do this is to take off the knock sensor, remove the plug and take it with you to match up the threads. The picture should show you all the parts you need. Make sure and use teflon tape on all threads to prevent any leakage. It has worked great for the last couple years with no problems.

The picture I posted is the side I ran my hot water shower line off of, this denotes the red line coming off the cross connector. The only thing you MUST do is keep the knock sensor in-line with the block. DO NOT run it off the side of the T or cross or else your motor will start running poorly.

Hope this helps, if you have any questions please ask!

Cheers!

Neither of my stock brass plugs had a sensor attached to them. Anyone know how or why this would be different.? I have the Indmar 325 assault. I think it is the exact same year and motor as Fmans. Just curious why I wouldn't have one.

whats the red tube coming off?

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Originally Posted by jaywidhalm

Neither of my stock brass plugs had a sensor attached to them. Anyone know how or why this would be different.? I have the Indmar 325 assault. I think it is the exact same year and motor as Fmans. Just curious why I wouldn't have one.

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Hmm... I have the 340, not the 325 but I dont think that would make a difference. Regardless, if your interested you can still perform the mod, just use an elbow instead of a "T".

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Originally Posted by docdrs

whats the red tube coming off?

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Hot water line for my shower.

sorry duhhhh, I should have actually read the post rather than just look at the pic.
Anyways I'm doing this as I like to drain my block then fill with antifreeze thru the top of the j tube....will be more control in draining recapture of the fluids

I have posted this thread on Wakeworld and have gotten a lot of negative feedback this is not a good idea to have the knock sensor off the engine. My brother in law has a MC X-15 and he did the mod a couple years ago with me and has never had any problems with his motor running poorly. His MC has the CAT-ETX motor with two knock sensors. After 230 hours of use, my engine has never skipped a beat at different altitudes and ambient temperatures.

Anyway, just did not want to steer anyone in the wrong direction. If there is a professional mechanic on this site, what is your take on this? I know the knock sensor is used for the ECM to adjust timing at different altitudes/running conditions. I would think I would have had some problems by now if this was going to be a problem. Again, motor has never thrown a code other than an 02 sensor when I first bought it, and has always ran strong.

The knock sensors will pick up a predetonation of the fuel that will send off a certain frequency 6- 8 kilohertz that will generate current in the sensor and to the ecm that will retard the timing.......the burn bangs against the cylinder head before it reaches tdc causing a ping or knock (simple analogy) and reducing power and potentially causing engine damage . The ecm advances the timing until it reaches this point then backs it off a little to prevent it from occurring. They can be located in different areas of the engine but are usually close to the spark plugs........thus moving it 1 inch is not a great distance and prob wont affect performance imo. If the knock is large and outside that range the sensor may not even pick it up but thats probably because there is a major problem anyway. But i'm no mechanic....curious did you try the sensor on the side and your engine ran rough or were you just advised that?

here is a good article http://www.engineblox.com/?p=65

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Originally Posted by docdrs

The knock sensors will pick up a predetonation of the fuel that will send off a certain frequency 6- 8 kilohertz that will generate current in the sensor and to the ecm that will retard the timing.......the burn bangs against the cylinder head before it reaches tdc causing a ping or knock (simple analogy) and reducing power and potentially causing engine damage . The ecm advances the timing until it reaches this point then backs it off a little to prevent it from occurring. They can be located in different areas of the engine but are usually close to the spark plugs........thus moving it 1 inch is not a great distance and prob wont affect performance imo. If the knock is large and outside that range the sensor may not even pick it up but thats probably because there is a major problem anyway. But i'm no mechanic....curious did you try the sensor on the side and your engine ran rough or were you just advised that?

here is a good article http://www.engineblox.com/?p=65

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Doc,

I have never had any problems with the engine running poorly since I installed the valve (230 hours). There are people on wakeworld saying its going to cause engine problems. My brother in law did this same mod on his MC X-15 with the CAT-ETX and he has never experienced any performance issues.

The only recommendation I might give is to use a "T" with one male end, two females. This will eliminate the need for a double male, and bring the sensor closer to the block. But as I said, even with the double male on my setup has worked great.

This is a very good setup for people in the mid-west (ie: Colorado) that typically have to re-winterize in the spring multiple times because of severe weather changes.

With the Supra access problem to the underside of the engine compartment I think this is a great, easy upgrade that works perfect. A couple twists of the valve and you are good to go.

Just remember the knock sensor must also be grounded. The way you have it set up will work fine. I personally don't like using the petcocks, due to potential for clogging. Al