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Gorgeous work on the trailer. I'm going to have to do something similar this spring and I hope it comes close to what you've done. The hook up on the nose looks a little different than normal. What did you do there? If it's what it looks like, I'd think it'd really protect the nose from damage as you load. I've got some damage on mine and I've noticed others have some issues there as well.
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Mike, you don't mess around, that trailer is righteous!
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Better than factory.... Wait till summer, you won't be able to get her in the water with out a croud of drewlers!!!
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Titan - Here's a better pic of how the bow attached to the trailer. The angled support is hinged down at the vee support and lays flat while loading. Once the boat is located properly fore/aft, the brace is raised so the bow eye protrudes thru a slot in the brace and the winch clip locks it all in place. Simple & elegant way to lock things down, but I can see some issues in getting things lined up just right - I only loaded it twice (purchase test drive and one quick outing) before I tore her apart. I've only seen this set up on one other Randall's VIP trailer also under an '89 Salt & the owner said it could be a PITA. Guess time will tell, but it's what I got.
ngavdba - thanks (nice title btw ;)) Now if the Stabil will just keep ethanol from contaminating my Dylithium crystals, me & Scottie can finish getting this ship outta space dock.
Wotan - good advice, I was the successful (only) bidder. Waiting on delivery, but I'm sure it's 28 bucks well spent to not have to hassle with making ghetto guide pole covers.
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That device will be very time consuming to get right every time. A simple 1.5" wide ratchet strap might do just as good and without the alignment issues. Is there any chance the steel flat stock can rub the bow of the boat near the hook???
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Swing arm
Mike,
I had that set-up on my old 85' Ski Supreme. Getting the fore/aft alignment isn't too bad, but be careful when loading on steep ramps. The PO of that boat locked everything down nice and tight, but didn't realize the back of the boat was still floating. When he pulled up the ramp the boat settled down on the trailer, pivoting on the lower V-bunk, and pulled the lifiting eye right through the bow of the boat. It was a bear to fix when I got it.
Just some food for thought.:o
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Thanks for the heads up! I sure had not thought of that possibility - ouch!
Since you have some experience - what do you think about getting the boat positioned fore/aft on the ramp, raising the brace and attaching the winch clip through the bow eye to secure the boat to the trailer, but then leaving some slack in the winch strap? This should allow some movement as the boat "settles" on the trailer as it's pulled out. Then tighten the winch once on level ground.
Any other hints or techniques?
Daff - The angle of the brace matches the hull pretty good & it's a static hand fasten operation, but I've had the same concern. Thought about plasti-dipping the end of the brace or maybe even one of those keel guard kits that come with a thin gauge s/s, self adhesive, protecter plates that mount around the bow eye.
Thanks
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I would get rid of that goofy loading setup. I would find it a pain as I don't powerload. Depending on the ramp I use one is impossible as it's full exposed to the tide current so I have one person hold to lines on the boat (only load when it's pulling away from dock) then throw bow line to me at trailer and I pull it on, hook the winch and crank it up while helper holds the stern. Other ramp is shelteredd so I idle onto the bunks then hook the winch and crank the last bit. Either way, get trailer depth golden for the ramp angle and the boat just aligns on the trailer by itself. I would be nervous powering all the way up with a big piece of metal right at the bow eye that could take a chunk out of the glass if not perfectly aligned.
I also always have a safety chain from the bow eye to the winch post, as I don't trust a strap 100%, then strap down the stern after pulled off the ramp.
Just my thoguhts on the matter as I usually use ramps that have insanely strong currents... Like wakes coming off the docks from the current. If you always have perfect calm water with no current it may not be that big a deal.
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cadunkle - I this he was saying that the metal piece is hinged where it's mounted on the trailer and therefore is not vertical while loading. It's actually laying flat and completely out of the way.
Apparently the biggest issue is just trying to get the boat in the right position so the metal piece fits over the bow eye. If you power load, this might be difficult, but if you winch it up, this seems like it'd be fairly straight-forward. My Saltare has some minor bow damage from the roller. The angle is never good and there is a lot of pressure asserted from the rubrail down as the boat is loaded. I think either my bow stop needs to be reconfigured or maybe done away with all together and put something like this in place.
sybermike - I'll be interested to hear how much you like this (or don't) as you get more time with it. Thanks for the pic.
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Yeah, it's hinged at the base and lays flat on the trailer until needed. That's part of the alignment problem - when loading, there's no reference point (bow roller) to locate the eye. Thinking about putting a small mark on the hull at the vee bunk as the reference point.
Like all boats, it's probably just a matter of experience to figure out the sweet spot just how far to sink the trailer for easiest loading.