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I understand. You may not want to drop off the whole boat either, but at this point, I'd say if he wants it out then he needs to take it out. You installed it with the understanding that it was ready to go. It's obviously not.
Not sure on what the issue is. How did water get in the starter? I'd think that was resolved during the rebuild.
Im assuming water got into the starter when the boat had water accumulate in it back when I first started this rebuild.
And Im sure the rust got into the cylinders when I didnt initially install the spark plugs in the engine.
I would take him the boat and tell him to remove the engine but this guy does not have the tools to remove the engine from the boat.
I had this problem on my "fresh" engine when it sat before I put it in the boat. I actually broke the bolt off the front of the engine using a giant breaker bar to try and get it turned over. I ended up taking it to a local mechanic. I'm not sure what they did but they were able to remove the end of the broken bolt, install a new one and get the engine "un-stuck" by using an air-compressor + fitting in the spark plug hole to force the engine over.
I suspect you have a different problem, though -- If the starter was full of water and you can't get it to turn over (even with the spark plugs out), I only see 1 possibility -- hydrolocked.
Do you have a remote oil drain? Drain all the oil and see what comes out. Otherwise -- pump all the oil out and see how much water you find in there.
Well I was able to get the engine to turn over last night. It took about 6 hours of lubing and prying the flywheel back and forth to get the thing to move. I hooked the tranny back up and made sure the starter turned the engine over. After work today I hope I can get this POS to pur!
If it fires up and purs, is it still a POS then Will?Quote:
Originally Posted by wspeedin
I supposed it will not be labeled a POS if it fires up and purs. I've got it all buttoned up and ready to fire when I get home from work today. Its got a new cam in it and will need the break in cycle of 2500RPM for 20 minutes. Any of you ever tried this with the boat not in the water? Im about an hour and a half from the lake and would love to avoid draggging it down there to do the cam break in. Any recommendations?
The only difference comes in how you're getting water into the engine. As long as the engine isn't starving for water (some people have had garden hoses collapse on them), you should be fine.
I'm no expert but every time I fire up the boat in the driveway even at idle I get a real groaning noise from the prop strut bushing if I don't lube it with WD40 first. I don't know what that thing is made of but it doesnt seem to like the shaft turning inside it when its dry. I'd be afraid to run it at 2500 rpm for any length of time without lubing it pretty well.
Your prop shaft shouldn't be turning when on land. The transmission should stay in neutral until you're actually in the lake.
Yea, I dont plan on having the boat in gear while on the trailer. For some reason, lol, that doesnt seem like a smart idea, lol.
Actually, right now my prop shaft isnt even connected to the transmission. I have a new OJ Dripless Sahft Seal to install so it isnt connected. Speaking of that, any ideas on how to get the coupler off the shaft? I have taken the nut off but cant seem to get the coupler to budge off the shaft.