Some progress this weekend. Pressed in new strut bushings, cut new guide pole pvc tubes, slid on new ebay padded guide pole covers, reflective tape on the pvc top caps, added aluminum diamond plate protectors to trailer for jack wheel and bow eye drop bar, cut tow chains to length, & filled a gap between the hull and shaft log (don't think it was necessary, but it bugged me).
Also mounted the new wakeplate. The old one was pretty beat up & I'm adding electric actuators, so wanted a hinged plate anyway... I couldn't find a plate that would fit into the existing pocket, so I cut off the existing plate & left a 1.5" flange to mount the new plate (plus didn't want the hassle of removing the 27 screws that are still solid in 5200, filling, & then fairing). This moved the hinge point 1.5" further back, but I still have a 9" movable chord width (now 10.5" total) so don't think it'll have much impact on performance.
Room is tight up under the swim platform so I have "short" actuators with only 1.5" of travel. Since the Supra manual says not to adjust the wakeplate below horizontal (but I do want the ability to force that deep vee down into the chop on occasion), I'm thinking of using 3/8 or 1/2" of travel for "down" and the remaining 1-1/8 or 1" of travel for "up" (surfing).
Any ideas on what the normal plate travel is for boats with actuated wakeplates?
No, I didn't screw up on the bolt spacing - the transom drain hole is off center from the factory. Also, you can see more of my new LED trailer lights and the back-ups I added - a little functional bling-bling.