http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/40e39065.jpghttp://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/a27dffc3.jpghttp://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/e4456ca5.jpghttp://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/11754de1.jpg
Printable View
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/d4c0d040.jpghttp://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/ba4b3a0c.jpghttp://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/f223b926.jpgSO WAS THIS THE PEANUT BUTTER YALL WERE TALKIN ABOUT LOL HA HAhttp://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/17262bb4.jpg
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/9d48a6c1.jpghttp://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...6/2427cd90.jpgIM OFF TO START THE GLASS WORK , ALL FILLETS ARE COMPLETE TO THE BEST I COULD DO , THAT PL GLUE WORKS BETTER WHEN ITS COOLER , IM GOING TO MAKE SOME SMALL BULK HEADS IN BETWEEN THE STRINGERS , THEN GLASS SOME CLEATS TO THE STRINGERS FOR THE DECK TO MOUNT , BUT I HAVE A QUESTION FOR YOU GUYS , MY STRINGERS ARE ABOUT A HALF " HIGH , WHAT WOULD BE A GOOD WAY TO CUT THEM TO DECK HEIGHT AFTER ALL MY TABBING IS CURED ?
is that PL stuff your using sim to 5200? could 5200 be used for the bedding?
5200 is some pricey stuff ben , but it can be used to bed the stringers, i used 1/4" foam squares to get a good gap , then cut the hole tube and emptied into a bag (pastry style) and used that to pack it in there .. and smooth out with putty spreader , just know that you want to put weight on to the stringers the whole time till your ready to start tabbing them to the deck , i used 1 part CSM and 1708 on top of that and wet them both together , the 1708 is some great stuff to work with ... it will conform to alot of tough areas ... good luck and share some pictures ... and when you cut your stringers take a little off at a time .. my angle was 21 degrees to a twist ... lol that was not fun !
it's great to see all of the progress. everyone manages to put their own signature touches on rebuilds, that's the best part to watch.
do you have a guide for a circular saw to trim the stringers? also, you'll want to take the corners off the tops so you can wrap cloth. it won't make a 90 degree angle worth a damn. you might practice wrapping a scrap piece. grinding a crappy glassing layup off your new stringers sucks.
i'll ship that cloth this week, it's been in may car for weeks.
i think i am going to go home this weekend so i will try to get mine cut and laid. question though, where the engine mounts is that sittin off the hull or is it bedded? Also i thought that PL stuff was around 12 bucks a tube? i have seen 5200 for 12 bucks a tube?
Great progress - keep it up!
Salty beat me to it - but I second the recommendation to round over the top edges of the stringers. I used a router and 1/4 or 3/8" radius bit to get a smooth curve that the glass would lay over. Also, wooden tongue depressors work good for laying down a nice fillet (but I used some roven woven in my hull/stringer joint layup & needed a wide fillet). It doesn't have to be baby butt smooth, but spend a little time prepping the fillets & radii and the glass will lay down so much easier.
salt - whats up brotha , well i wanted a tough solid floor so i went 2x everywhere ... lol , i plan to take a round over bit with my router to make a rounded top .... but , one thing i didnt do was compensate for the fillets as much as i needed too .. im only 1/2" high toward the bow , i think when i round them over it will pop up on my tape , ?? So i Tabbed both stringers with one layer of CSM and one of 1708 biax ... how many layers do you think ill need ? cause that 1708 is some tough stuff but i wanted to make sure so i layed the CSM before ... lol I used nearly 5 gal just on one side !! and man poly is some strong stuff !! let me know what the shipping is and ill mail the amount to the return address .... thanks for all the help too ....( I have a rip gauge for my circular saw that what you meant right ? )
Ben - PL runs 6.99 for the big tubes where i live ... at Homedepot . For the engine mounts i used cabosil and 1/2 CSM strands to make the fillets , I used some left over doug fir and some stainless through bolts .... to squeeze them togethere
Looking good. I definitely agree with rounding over the wood. For your spot where you're too tall, you can attack it in a lot of different ways. If you can really get a good mark on the wood so you have a nice straight line and have a good guide for the circular saw, go that route. Other wise you might try a power planer and then a belt sander. Before you wrap that wood put some thinned resin or CPES on it...that will help the wood be less susceptible to rot.