Restoration progress (with pics)

If you're having issues with heat soak flooding the engine or draining the fuel bowls as fuel expands or boils, try a phenolic spacer under the carb if you have the room.

I use this one, but you can get them shorter, or as a thin plate. Obviously the thicker it is the better it will isolate the carb from engine heat and heat soak. Also when I replaced my intake manifold gaskets I run the restrictor plates in the exhaust crossover. I probably should have blocked the crossover off entirely, but thought some heat might be good as I do tend to run early/late in the season with quite cold air and water temps.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-64930

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by cadunkle

If you're having issues with heat soak flooding the engine or draining the fuel bowls as fuel expands or boils, try a phenolic spacer under the carb if you have the room.

---

Yep, good call. Csuggs did this in addition to his fuel line wrap, so one, or both helped. I couldn't remember that Phenolic word last night.

So what did you wrap the fuel line with? Looks just like HVAC tape.

I think I will 'jump' into this as well,.

Titan, were you only having issues on startup? My comp had some bad heat soak with the old motor (no idea how the new motor will be). But I would have hard starting, fuel bowl drainage and after numerous pulls it would buck and bog like crazy.

Was that the pipe from the carb to the fuel pump? Is your fuel line from the tank to the pump rubber?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by haugy

So what did you wrap the fuel line with? Looks just like HVAC tape.

---

It's a little more than that. It's made specifically to reflect heat. http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/pr...-shield/102/43

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Supra_Comp

I think I will 'jump' into this as well,.

Titan, were you only having issues on startup? My comp had some bad heat soak with the old motor (no idea how the new motor will be). But I would have hard starting, fuel bowl drainage and after numerous pulls it would buck and bog like crazy.

Was that the pipe from the carb to the fuel pump? Is your fuel line from the tank to the pump rubber?

---

I only have issues when I get the engine hot and then shut down for more than 30 minutes without cracking open the doghouse. If it's less than 30 minutes, or if I crack open the doghouse, there are no issues.

The metal pipe that I wrapped is from the pump to the carb. The fuel line from the tank to the pump is rubber.

ok question plate under the carb i really don't have any more room under my cover at all or is this like a 1/16 thick plate also i use to race for a company called cv4 products what about the heat shield tape that was desighned for nasa so gas or heat canot penetrate also here in nc we get checked regularly about carbs and extra crap on the motor will this make any difrence

nevermind on the plate i have the cv4 model of that already i don't think the bowls are draining ive checked that

I installed some LED interior lights today. They're a little brighter in this pics than in real life, but I'm pleased. For just a few dollars, it's an easy upgrade.

http://unumemarketing.com/boat/led_right.jpg

http://unumemarketing.com/boat/led_left2.jpg

Nice work! I'm switching over to red LED's as well this year. The blue brought in way too many bugs.