1989 Saltare - My god Spock, what have I done???

Another couple notes...

I would connect everything to the batteries directly for auxilary stuff on each battery. Use the auxilary terminals on the battery itself. The main boat operating system should connect from the helm back to its main circuit breaker.

I opted to only have the stereo on the second battery. The main reason for that was I had it totally isolated until this year. With the 1314 you could go either way, but it seems to me things like ballast pumps do just fine running off the main engine battery. I'd put the trim tabs on that main battery for sure since you would usually only use them while your underway and the engine is running.

Sybr - I just got cought up on this post and your boat is really looking fine. I too am ready to start wiring - maybe tonight. Anyways, I'll be referring to your progress and posting my progress on "86Sunsport-phase2" thread.
I have 2 batteries also - one starting and one deep cycle. I have them wired to a Perko switch so that there are two hot wires coming into the switch, one going out. With that set-up, do I need a battery isolator? I know that if I run the Perko switch on one battery or the other, then only that battery will get charged. But if I run the switch in the "both" position, do I need the isolator to be sure the weakest battery gets charged first?

Obviously from my questions, I'm no electrical expert - but if you have two different style/size batteries, they will probably charge differently with the Perko in the "both" position & not sure how that will affect battery life.

Not sure about all isolators, but the 1314 preferentially charges/maintains one (usually the starting) battery. It automatically connects both batteries only once the primary battery reaches a certain voltage threshold (13.2 volts I think) and will disconnect them if the primary drops below that voltage. So it always maintains the primary battery, not the one with the lowest charge.

Thanks Okie - that helps me plan things out a bit better. Think I'll keep all the the stereo stuff on the second battery.

Put some long hours in this weekend, but it paid off.

Finished repairing the bow ding and installed the rubrail. Still have to seal the bottom edge with silicone, but it turned out well and really starting to look like a boat again. Can also see my new LED bow light.

Received the two correct platform angle brackets last week (Jim @ Viper had originally sent 2 of the 3 with wrong angle, but shipped replacements quickly). Installed the new removable mounting brackets with aluminum backer plates I fabbed, angle brackets, and platform. Bad news - I didn't get the 3 mounting brackets aligned perfectly. Good news - the platform is still level and square, but now with a little bit of bind in the brackets - I don't have any slop or movement once I get the pins inserted.

Thanks to Matt K for the inspiration (or at least courage) to try splitting my new wakeplate when mounting the new actuators. Settled on parallel when fully down which gives me 1.75" up at the trailing edge when fully retracted. Made more backer plates for the top mounts for thru-bolting. I hope they work as well on the water as they look in my garage.

that dual plate action is really, really cool...i think you may have made me add yet another thing to my list!

Very cool...looking good? What is the reasoning behind splitting the plate? Fine adjustment side to side of wake effect or attitude of the boat?

Two reasons - one, to see what effect (if any) differential actuation will have on side-to-side list trim (read help sink one corner for surfing) and general wake shape and hull performance. These hulls are pretty flat across the stern and the wakeplate(s) are in the middle, so I don't expect much (Matt K kind of confirmed this), but it's worth a shot... Two - on the odd chance that the actuators unintentionally (or intentionally for above reason) deploy at different rates, to keep them from trying to rip things apart.

Two - on the odd chance that the actuators unintentionally (or intentionally for above reason) deploy at different rates, to keep them fm trying to rip things apart.[/QUOTE]

On my conventional set up (one wake plate in middle with to actuators), the piping-tubing is teed to balance the fluid pressure.

That's the beauty of hydraulic, but I went electric with no way to truly balance the load - but I knew I wanted to try differential actuation anyway.

Nice upgrade to yours btw. How much up/down travel do you have on your Bennets & how does the boat respond?

man, your tabs look nice! Mine's just a cut-up version of the stock one, with the hinges from the rear deck riveted in. I like the thru-bolted setup as well.

It looks like we have pretty similar travel now. My actuators have more throw, but due to the extended angle, the tabs don't move any farther than yours do.