Looks like that’s the best option/suggestion so far.Quote:
Originally Posted by nboardskier
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Looks like that’s the best option/suggestion so far.Quote:
Originally Posted by nboardskier
I found this from long ago .... just in case you, or someone else needs it!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...65d3e7dbe3.jpg
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My son and I replaced the rudder packing on his 1989 Maria a few years ago without removing the fuel tank. There isn't much room, but you can reach in there and do it. Since there is little room and limited motion, I purchased a set of crowfoot wrenches that worked well.
The first thing to do is undo the steering arm connection. The next thing is the big packing nut. After you remove this the rudder will drop down and can be removed.
Ours was a conventional packing, just like the main prop shaft. Repack the nut, install the rudder, install the packing nut, and connect the steering nut. Hope this helps.
Delayed update and in need of further help. Please
I cut the fiberglass panel in from of the tank and behind the seats. I was able to remove the tank.
The boat has been at the upholstery shop for a few weeks and thus I haven’t been able to continue the rudder repair, but now I have it back.
It is definitely a rudder with the packing nut and not the ones with the o-rings and the grease fittings.
I have removed the cotter pin, but just can’t get the arm released from the rudder shaft. Based on what I’ve read online, I need to remove the pinch bolt. I’ve removed the nut and lock washer, but can’t wiggle the bolt loose.
Any suggestions?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b2bb8af766.jpg
I’ll take a few pics for you as I plan on replacing my packing today in my 91 comp. Basically the threaded stud that you have the nut removed in the picture has a wedge shape cut into. I sprayed PB blaster on it and nudged it loose with a hammer. Took a decent amount but not so much to bend it or injure threads. Like others say, support the rudder as it will fall out of the port. I was lucky enough that the trailer’s prop and rudder guard was removable with 3 nuts and bolts to get the last 3” of shaft out of port. Hopefully water test this week as boat needs to make the reunion at Nottely lake!
Attachment 18737Attachment 18738
Okay, here are the pics I promised, hope this is what you were after. When you nudge the yoke bolt with a hammer it exposes the crescent shape of the through bolt so the shaft can fall out of the port. Comprehende?
NoWake. Thank you so much for posting that. I have gone so far as to jam two nuts together and try to turn that bolt using the nuts. That’s after I tapped the bolt with a hammer lightly and ruined the threads on it and had to rethread it. I was afraid to hit it hard.
I actually spoke to the folks at Skidim yesterday and after explaining what I had going on, the one I was speaking to pointed me to the image of the bolt on their site and explained how it works. I went to the boat this morning, but a nut on the end of the bolt to protect the threads, gave it a few taps with the hammer and it released.
I had put a bumper between the prop guard and the rudder and thus it didn’t fall down, I just removed the arm by pulling it up.
If I had seen your pictures and advice/explanation, I would have figured it out too. Timing is everything.
Figured I was a little slow on the post. Anyone who can figure how to get that fuel tank out without several bloody knuckles isn’t going to let that bolt stand in the way! My project is not complete as I haven’t water tested yet but it did take some play out of it. I sprung for the GFO packing on skidim. What did you end up going with?
I purchased the 3/16 GFO packing too. But as luck would have it (I suppose it’s good luck in retrospect), I backed up the boat into the water (my project has been delayed because the upholsterer has had the boat for a month) just to make sure that the water was coming from the rudder and it wasn’t. It was coming from one of the exhausts.
So while the tank is out, I will be repacking the rudder as well as resealing both exhausts. Then water test, then put the tank back in, then repair the slot that I cut out of the fiberglass panel that divides the fuel tank from the rear seats. It’s going to be a long weekend.
Good luck with your water test
Sounds like it will be a sweet ride when done. Luckily on this end not chasing a water leak, just wanted to correct the tight steering to the right when under power. I can imagine how nice the upholstery will be after mucking around in 30+ yr old transoms.